Today we are sleeping in as we prepare to begin walking our Camino, leaving from Leon, Spain, tomorrow morning. I don’t know what we will find to eat today in Leon, but if we can’t find anything inspiring we know of a fine little Mexican restaurant called King Kong near the Cathedral.
On our 2017 Camino, the first real meal that we ate on the Way was a Pilgrim’s dinner in a small restaurant in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port the night before we started walking. We didn’t know it at the time, but the meal was the classic Poulet a la Basque or Basque Chicken. It was so tender, piquant, salty, and oh-so-good that I had to figure out the recipe. On my birthday later that year, Michelle bought me Yosmar Martinez’s Tastes of the Camino Cookbook. The first recipe is for Basque Chicken. Her recipe is not exactly like the one we had in SJPdP, but it gave me a jumping off point. So with Yosmar’s forgiveness for “borrowing” parts of her recipe, here is my version of Basque chicken. This version will serve 2-3 people.
Begin by seasoning one and a half pounds of boneless skinless chicken thighs with salt and pepper and browning it in a pan with olive oil. It does not need to be cooked through. Set the chicken aside.
Add sliced onion, red and yellow pepper, four cloves of minced garlic, and a cup of petite diced tomatoes to the pan and cook until everything is softened, about ten minutes.
Add half a cup of dry white wine and cover to simmer on low for thirty minutes. Taste the sauce and season with additional salt and pepper if needed but be careful to not make the dish salty due to the garnish later. Also, a small amount of sugar may be added if the tomatoes are particularly acidic. Add the chicken back in and continue to simmer on low for an additional 20 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through and slightly falling apart.
During the simmer, prepare the potatoes. Preheat the oven to 400º and cut fingerling potatoes in halves or quarters depending on size. Toss them in some olive oil and salt and place them in a roasting pan or cookie sheet. Roast for fifteen minutes, tossing several times to make sure they get browned evenly.
Meanwhile, for the garnish, cut four ounces of Serrano ham (I used Prosciutto) into thin strips and cook over medium-high heat in a skillet. There is no need to add oil as the ham will render some fat quickly. Cook until the strips begin to brown and get crispy. Roughly chop some flat leaf parsley for additional garnish. Don’t skip this, the green brightens the final dish and lightens the flavor too.
Spoon the sauce into a large serving bowl and place the chicken on top. Garnish with the ham strips and parsley. Serve the potatoes on the side. Don’t forget the white wine!
Basque Chicken with Roasted Potatoes
1-1/2 pounds of boneless skinless chicken thighs
4 T olive oil, divided
1 large onion sliced
4 cloves of minced garlic
1 red and 1 yellow bell pepper, sliced
1 c petite diced tomatoes
1/2 c dry white wine
4 oz Serrano ham
2 sprigs flat leaf parsley
1 pound of fingerling potatoes
optional sugar
salt and pepper to taste
Begin by seasoning the chicken thighs with salt and pepper and browning it in a pan with half of the olive oil. It does not need to be cooked through. Set the chicken aside.
Add onion, red and yellow pepper, minced garlic, and diced tomatoes to the pan and cook until everything is softened, about ten minutes.
Add wine and cover to simmer on low for thirty minutes. Taste the sauce and season with additional salt and pepper if needed but be careful to not make the dish salty due to the garnish later. Also, a small amount of sugar may be added if the tomatoes are particularly acidic. Add the chicken back in and continue to simmer on low for an additional 20 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through and slightly falling apart.
During the simmer, prepare the potatoes. Preheat the oven to 400º and cut potatoes in halves or quarters depending on size. Toss them in the remaining olive oil and salt and place them in a roasting pan or cookie sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, tossing several times to make sure they get browned evenly.
Meanwhile, for the garnish, cut the ham (I used Prosciutto) into thin strips and cook over medium-high heat in a skillet. There is no need to add oil as the ham will render some fat quickly. Cook until the strips begin to brown and get crispy. Roughly chop some flat leaf parsley for additional garnish.
Spoon the sauce into a large serving bowl and place the chicken on top. Garnish with the ham strips and parsley. Serve the potatoes on the side.
On a side note…
We hope you enjoy following us along our journey across Spain and Portugal in the coming weeks. Hit subscribe for up to date blog posts, and make sure that you check out our Instagram feed for real-time, up to the minute posts along the Way. Our goal is to post on Instagram daily, and YouTube and blog at least once a week. Thanks for coming on this adventure with us! Our July recipe will be for Tarta de Santiago, an almond cake that is popular across Spain but especially in Galicia. Buen Camino!
Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.
Ibn Battuta, Travels of Ibn Battuta
We have been planning for over a year, had a multitude of setbacks, a lot of excitement, and a huge set of nerves as we take on our biggest adventure ever! We hope we’re ready, we pray the weather is kind to us, and we want to bring all of you along! During June and July, we will be hiking about 722 miles or 1162 kilometers. We will hike part of the Camino Frances from León to Santiago, then we will hike all of the Caminho Portugués from Lisbon to Santiago. We will then conclude with the Camino Finisterre from Santiago to Muxia to Finisterre and back to Santiago.
There are so many paths to take when you are planning a Camino, it’s hard to pick a route. Just look at the maps below – that is just the routes in Spain, Portugal, and a bit of what is in France. We wanted something new and a bit of what we have done before to reminisce on our favorite parts. Last time we walked all of the Camino Frances and then from Santiago to Finisterre, so much of what we will be doing this time will be new.
There are Camino routes throughout Europe and we want to walk so many of them! It’s like a bug that has lovingly bitten us hard. When we travel in the US, our goals have been to visit every state and every national park and we are getting very close to reaching those two goals. Therefore, we are coming up with new travel goals, and though we may not walk every Camino path, but we are sure going to have fun picking a new route each time we travel to Europe.
I sometimes envy those who don’t plan or train at all for their Camino pilgrimage. When it comes to a quick weekend getaway, we usually don’t have a plan. If we are going away for a week’s vacation, we have a rough idea of “things to do” but nothing too rigid. However, in both cases, we know where we are sleeping each night, which in turn is all we know about our Camino. Honestly, we don’t even know if we will walk or bus/taxi to our destination village every night. We plan to walk, we hope to walk, but sometimes life says, “today you aren’t going to walk.” We are flexible. We know from our Camino 2017 that sometimes you just have to taxi/bus to your destination. We ended up taking a bus/taxi 3 times, about 12 km total, in 2017 because of the heat and illness. It happens. Our “plan” is to simply walk without worry and trust that each day will go exactly as it is supposed to go. However, we are well aware that just like in 2017, Spain is expecting record high temperatures. Therefore, we will be waking up early and hoping for the best.
We will arrive in Madrid on June 10th, so at this point, the only things left to do are (1) pack our backpacks and (2) take a few more short walks. When it comes to your backpack there are a couple of major considerations, they are:
How can I keep the weight down?
What can and can’t I live without?
What clothing will dry easily overnight?
Can I get it along the Way if I need it so I don’t have to carry it?
We have assessed, evaluated, considered, and paired down as much as we can. Some will say our packs are too heavy while others will say our packs are too light. They weigh less than the last time we walked the Camino and they will get lighter as we go. The goal for clothing is to have something to wear during the day, wear in the evenings, and wear in the pool/while the other clothes are getting washed.
As for Michelle, with her pack coming in just over 15 pounds before water, here is what she is carrying (including the clothes on her back):
2 tank tops, 1 short sleeve shirt, 1 zip-up jacket for cool mornings, 1 raincoat
1 pair of leggings, 1 pair of roll-up hiking pants, and 1 pair of lightweight shorts
1 pair of compression socks, 2 pairs of double layer socks
2 pairs of underwear
Panty liners to help with overall freshness. Yes, I could buy them as I go but I have a brand I love and my pack will get lighter as I go.
2 sports bras, not the ones that slip over your head because it will be too hot for pulling anything over my head (I remember well from our last Camino)!
Hiking shoes and tennis shoes for the daytime and super lightweight Crocs for evenings and rest days. I have a lot of foot problems and I am praying this variety helps.
Toiletries include: conditioner, razor (Brian has shave gel for us both), brush, tweezers, nail clippers, camp soap (it will wash my hair/body and our clothes), cotton balls, face cleaner, q-tips
Misc: Bandana, head wrap that has a visor on it, hair clip, 2 ponytail holders, 2 Pro Bars in case of an emergency, a bottle of electrolytes, roll up water bladder, tissues, one small roll of toilet paper, main water bladder, rain cover for the backpack, and wide angle lens
Vitamins and medications. Yes, I can get vitamins in Spain but I have them all portioned out so I don’t have to think about it. I have an auto-immune disorder and I am anemic so this is my assurance that I will be ok.
As for Brian, with his pack coming in just over 18 pounds before water, here is what he is carrying:
2 tech t-shirts, 1 polo shirt, 1 long sleeve shirt, and a rain jacket
1 of each hiking shorts, zip-off pants, and gym shorts
1 pair of socks and 2 pair of underwear
Chacos to walk in and Crocs for evenings and rest days
Buff and bandana
A roll of string and safety pins for drying laundry
Vitamins and medication
Toiletry kit including soap, shampoo, razor with extra cartridges, shave gel, q-tips, cotton balls, face cleaner, sun screen, toothbrush, and toothpaste
Misc: 2 Pro Bars in case of an emergency, a bottle of electrolytes, roll up water bladder, tissues, main water bladder, extra carabiners, rain cover for the backpack, battery back-up, portable keyboard for blogging, and Camino guidebooks
The gimbal for recording video along the Way
Foot balm and tension ball for easing foot pain
Cruisin’ with the Colemans stickers to pass out
The first aid kit which is explained below
We carry a small first aid kit, as everyone should, in case of an emergency on the trail. Here is what we have in our kit:
Various sizes of band-aids and steri-strips
Moleskin
Wet ones to clean your hands before cleaning a wound on the trail
One pair of disposable gloves in case we have to help another pilgrim
Tape, gauze, Neosporin, tweezers, and scissors
A bottle with Benedryl, Advil, and Aleve
Anti-inflammatory cream and Cortizone from our last trip to Spain. We will be bringing more of this stuff home because it’s amazing!!
Needle and thread for draining blisters
Tums and anti-diarrhea meds
What we carry in our fanny packs
Our fanny packs include the essential things that you need access to while we’re walking. This includes:
Passport, pilgrim passport, money, credit cards
Phone, headphones, charging cords, European charger, and wide-angle lens
Probars
Chapstick, gum, tissues, Charmin wipes, and utter smooth butt cream
Shells to leave along the Way and rocks to leave at Cruz de Ferro
The only thing left to do is take a few short walks with our final backpack loads in the week leading up to our departure date. We want to keep our legs loose but we don’t need to do anything big this week. We certainly don’t want to injure ourselves.
Just a short hike around the neighborhood to test out our loaded packs.
The final thing we did this week was to have a conversation with the fantastic Dan Mullins. Dan has a weekly podcast called My Camino (this is the link to our talk with Dan). He talks to pilgrims from all walks of life, from all over the world. This podcast has been very inspiring to us and we are blessed to be able to have a conversation with Dan. We look forward to listening to a new episode every week and going back to listen to old episodes. If you need inspiration while you wait to walk your Camino, check out Dan’s podcast. Oh, and don’t forget to buy his song, Somewhere Along the Way, I have it on my playlist to enjoy while we walk!
During the podcast, I talked about how our Camino 2017 overwhelmed my senses. I don’t know if you find this a positive statement or not, or if you even know what it means, but to me, it summarizes the wheel of emotions I felt along the Way. From hearing the many languages and trying to communicate in a foreign land, to smelling the new foods and flowers, to seeing new sights daily, to tasting new foods and wine daily, and to feeling a huge array of emotions, the Camino overwhelmed me. It made it tough at times but now I am drawn to it. I want to feel those feelings again. I want to embrace my emotions more than feel overwhelmed by them. We travel all over the US and my senses are never as overwhelmed because it’s not like everything I experience is new. For example, the landscape may be different when we travel out West, but the food and language are similar. I believe that feeling overwhelmed by your senses is why people bungee jump, skydive, or zipline. The Camino changed our lives and I can’t wait to see what changes will follow this Camino. I talked a bit more about our Camino 2017 in this blog post, Rock Bottom: Why I Almost Quit My Camino. Thank you, Dan, for allowing us to reminisce on our 2017 Camino and get us excited for the new journey just around the corner.
Thank you to our blog subscribers for indulging our many passions from the Camino, to RVing, to traveling, to cooking. We enjoy reminiscing about our adventures, we hope you appreciate reading about them. If you are not a subscriber, scroll to the bottom of this page and add your name to our email list. The only emails you will receive from us are notifications of our blog posts.
Buen Camino friends. We hope to see you Along the Way.
★ 25 years guiding★ 48 U.S. states★ 10 countries★ 3,000+ Camino miles
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.
