Tag: backpacking

What Do I Bring on Pilgrimage? Camino Packing List

Posted on by CruisinColemans

It’s easy to overpack for a pilgrimage—believe me, I’ve learned from experience! On my first Camino, I carried way too much gear, and it was quite a burden, especially since I had to carry it all on my back. Fortunately, on our planned trips, you’ll have luggage service, so you won’t need to carry everything with you. Even with luggage service, this is not a trip of luxuries. We are on pilgrimage, so we are not carrying much “stuff” with us.

For the trips we lead on the Camino, each person is limited to one backpack or one small suitcase weighing no more than 15 kilograms or 33 pounds to manage the luggage for everyone. However, Brian and I take one suitcase (no more than 15 kilograms) between the two of us. We encourage everyone to pack light! Whether you have luggage service or not, having one backpack that weighs under 15 kilograms (the lighter, the better!) will help you, as it eases the burden of carrying your luggage day after day.

Our two backpacks from our 2019 Camino. This was everything we carried for 2 months in Europe

We believe in the principle of washing and wearing your clothes. What does this mean? It means you are either washing your clothes or wearing them. After hiking for the day, you should shower and wash your clothes. In the evening, you can wear hiking clothes for the next day. Any other clothes would be considered a luxury. You can have luxury items if you keep them in one backpack or suitcase under 15 kilograms (33 pounds). 

Ultimately, this is your trip. We will never tell you exactly what you “should” or “should not” take with you. This blog post offers suggestions and our perspective. Please feel free to use this information as you see fit.

This is our suggested packing list for any of our Camino trips.
Where there are differences between Brian and me, Michelle, we have identified them. These are just suggestions. You have to pack what you feel is best for you! Also, where we travel, you will be able to find what you need in local shops (band-aids, hiking poles, ibuprofen, etc)

  1. Toiletries: toothbrush, soap to wash clothes and body, shampoo, nail clippers, tweezers, comb, hair ties, etc. Some type of washcloth because they don’t use them as we do in the US. Here is the lightweight bag that I carry my toiletries.
  2. Sunscreen
  3. A bandana or something to wipe the sweat off your face. I use this towel as my sweat rag and my washcloth in the shower.
  4. Headlamp if you want to leave before sunrise to walk
  5. Clothesline: We use something like this, with safety pins to hold our clothes on the line
  6. A notebook or something like that for journaling
  7. Towel: When we take a group trip, the places we stay will provide towels. Some people like to have their own towels. This is Brian’s favorite towel, and this is my favorite towel. We carry a towel because sometimes we stay in places that don’t provide towels (outside of group experiences).
  8. European plug adaptor
  9. Portable backpack for evenings to get snacks or groceries or to take your laundry to the laundromat
  10. Sunglasses with UV protection
  11. Lightweight Sunglasses Case that clips on your pack.
  12. A hat: Here is what Brian likes to wear. I have worn my Nike hat but have no particular preferences.
  13. Merino wool lightweight socks are my favorite brand. I take two pairs, and I always have an extra pair in my daypack, so if my feet are sweating, I can change my socks. If your feet sweat a lot, I would suggest three pairs in case your socks don’t dry overnight.
  14. Some like sock liners to help prevent blisters. These are what I wear under my socks.
  15. Hiking shoes—this is quite a debatable conversation. Brian hikes in Chacos all day and wears Croc flip-flops in the evening. I hike in New Balance tennis shoes (a full size larger than my regular tennis shoes). I wear Chacos in the evenings and on shorter walking days. We have hiked for many years in other shoes, but this is what we have hiked in for more than three years. We can talk to you about all of the hiking shoe options, but it’s a decision you have to make.
  16. Some like a sun umbrella when they are hiking in the summer. This is our favorite brand because it’s super lightweight
  17. Lightweight underwear that fits well and has no lace that can rub and irritate the skin and will dry quickly—no cotton underwear! You just need two pairs—remember you are washing and wearing. These are the underwear that Brian wears, and this is the underwear I wear. We don’t buy expensive underwear; we just ensure it’s not cotton!
  18. Bras—ladies, that is up to you! Wear a sports bra during the day and a regular one at night; you decide. I can help if you need ideas. I hate sports bras. I have to pull them over my head because that is hard to do when you are hot and sweaty, so I love this sports bra.
  19. Lightweight jacket for cool evenings or early mornings. Remember, no cotton; this is the brand I prefer to wear.
  20. Rain jacket: You can make this your lightweight jacket if you want to save space. We love Marmot jackets
  21. T-shirts: Brian loves button-down shirts, and I prefer t-shirts. Either way, just make sure you are comfortable. Avoid wearing anything tight; you don’t want to feel self-conscious! Some people like tank tops. The problem with tank tops for hiking is (1) the rubbing from your daypack strap and your bare skin can become uncomfortable, and (2) many churches frown on those who don’t have their shoulders covered. You must have your shoulders covered in Italy to go into a church.
  22. Shawl: Some people like to have a nice shawl with them for cooler nights as a wrap or for churches.
  23. Pants: Brian likes zip-off pants (no more than two pairs). I like skorts and shorts
  24. Sleepwear: Brian sleeps in his underwear. I sleep in my evening dress or t-shirt and underwear. People on the Camino are not modest.
  25. Sleep liner: We travel on Camino in the summer; therefore, a light sleep liner is all we need when sheets are not provided. Sheets will be provided for our group travel experiences. Every albergue we have stayed at has blankets available. However, if you stay somewhere where sheets are not provided, this is our sleep liner.
  26. A swimsuit if you think you might be able to find a place with a swimming pool (on our trips, we always try to find a pool!)
  27. A swim cap. In Europe, people are required to wear a swim cap in most public pools (we have been required to purchase swim caps in some hotels but not all hotels). Brian loves this one because it’s comfortable. I love this one because it has room for all of my hair. It’s not waterproof, but it is comfortable, and that’s what I like about it.
  28. A fly swatter, you will thank me if it’s fly season!
  29. A sink stopper to wash your clothes in the sink. You would be shocked at how many people take or don’t provide a sink stopper.
  30. Some sort of stain remover pen. If you truly have a limited number of clothes, a stain-removing pen will be a blessing, so you don’t have to live with a stained item.
  31. Arnica Montana homeopathic medicine. Pills you put under your tongue that melt in your mouth. These pills help with muscle stiffness, cramping, bruising, and swelling. You can take these up to three times a day.
  32. Anti-chafing cream is a good thing to have if you have parts that rub. Haha!
  33. We always take a bit of Advil and muscle relaxers (non-drowsy script from the doctor).

In your daypack – If you are not carrying a backpack but rather a suitcase and daypacks, this is the daypack I use and the daypack Brian uses. You can carry something smaller, whatever you are most comfortable using. But ensure you have a way to cover your backpack if it rains. You should have the following at a minimum in your pack:

  1. Water bottles, a water bladder, or both. We both like carrying a water bladder to drink from while hiking. We also like a water bottle to make a drink with electrolytes or a flavored drink. Water bladders should only contain water to prevent mold or bacteria from forming.
  2. Water bladder cleaning tab. For a trip that is two weeks or less, you just need one tab to clean your bladder halfway through your trip
  3. Electrolytes. If you are feeling dehydrated, overheated, weak, or sluggish, drinking electrolytes will help. I love this brand of Salt Sticks for quick relief, and this brand for putting in my water bottle.
  4. Snacks. We find snacks in a local grocery store and only buy what we may want for the next day. This can be fruit, trail mix, chips, etc. Whatever makes you happy
  5. You should bring a few toiletries, such as tissues, toilet paper (yes, some places will have toilets without paper!), and maybe ibuprofen.
  6. You could also consider a small notebook if you like to journal with pen and paper or give your number to someone you meet along the way.
  7. Your cell phone charger, if you think you will need it during the day
  8. Your pilgrim shell should be attached to your daypack, as this identifies you as a pilgrim to other people
  9. Bring a fanny pack with your essentials. This includes your pilgrim’s passport (also called a credential), your US passport, and money for the day.
  10. A hat or a sun umbrella
  11. Some sort of stain remover pen. If you truly have a limited number of clothes, a stain-removing pen will be a blessing, so you don’t have to live with a stained item. Have one in your suitcase and one in your daypack unless you are using just a backpack.

AirTags: Be sure to place AirTags in everything from your suitcase to your daypack and even your fanny pack. It might seem like overkill, but you never know when you might misplace something, and you’ll be glad you have your AirTags!

You will find plenty of ATMs along the way. We carry a Charles Schwab card for our ATM transactions. CS reimburses your ATM charges, and there are no upcharges.

What type of SIM card do I need for my phone? We used to use Orange eSIM cards when we traveled abroad; however, we currently have an international Verizon cell plan. Choosing a phone plan involves several considerations. Contact us if you have questions about phone plans and traveling abroad.

If we have forgotten to include something on the list or if you have any questions, please let us know.

Thanks for reading! – Michelle

Group Trip to Spain – Walking the Camino de Santiago

Posted on by CruisinColemans

If you read our blog earlier this week, you learned we have moved up our date to begin leading group experiences*. If you missed the blog, it’s a great story; you can read it by clicking here. We are taking our first group to walk on the Camino de Santiago this July 7-18, 2025. Below are details about what to expect on the trip, followed by the total costs for singles, doubles, and singles in shared rooms, the registration deadline, and what is not included. If this doesn’t work for you this year, we will have a trip for you next year, which is summarized at the end of the blog.

As of March 24, 2025 – The trip is SOLD OUT. Please subscribe to see what trips we will be adding in the future!

What to expect:

  • You can walk every day on the Camino Frances from Samos to Santiago de Compostela, covering 132 kilometers or 82 miles over seven days.
  • You don’t have to walk at all. There will be plenty to do for people of varying physical abilities.
  • Light continental breakfast, typically coffee and a pastry
  • Have a communal dinner with your group every night, including multiple courses and wine. These will not typically be your average “pilgrim” dinner – when you are Cruisin’ with the Colemans, you are with foodies!
  • Private or semi-private (with another group member) rooms that fit your needs
  • Daily luggage transfer: all you have to carry is a light pack with just your snacks and water
  • Transfer to/from Santiago airport at the start of the trip
  • Daytime transfer if you need to skip a part of the walk 
  • Begin in the small village of Samos to explore the Monastery of San Xulián de Samos, built in the sixth century
  • Rest day near the end of the trip in Santiago de Compostela with guided or not guided time in the old town
  • On the rest day in Santiago, we will explore the Cathedral and the museum and do a rooftop tour of the church. A botafumeiro is not guaranteed during mass (this is a $3000 expense)
  • Enjoy a traditional guiemada ceremony as a group after dinner in Santiago de Compostela
  • Group bus trip to Finisterre to enjoy the beach, shop, take the 2.5 km walk to the lighthouse for sunset, and celebrate with a group dinner
  • Transfer back to Santiago de Compostela for the end of the trip
  • Advance support for planning your trip 
  • Camino 101 Zoom sessions to get ready and get familiar with those you will be traveling with
  • Help to make travel arrangements to/from Spain, including suggested flights from the US to Spain
  • Credential, pilgrim shell, and travel wallet to carry your pilgrim credential and passport
  • Thumb drive of photos and completed summary videos of your trip

The Cost Breakdown of the Trip:

  • For those who are traveling as a couple, your cost for all of the above will be $4,350 total
  • For those who are traveling solo but are willing to share a room with another member of the group, your cost for all of the above will be $2,600

To secure your spot on the trip, a $500 non-refundable deposit is due immediately. The remainder is due by June 1. Payment plans are encouraged.

Deadline to Sign Up: The registration deadline is April 1st or as soon as we reach 12 people.

What is Not Included: Your only remaining expenses are your gear, daily lunch and snacks, and airfare from your hometown to Santiago de Compostela airport or Sarria train station. We will have a car ready to pick you up and take you to our starting point. If you need assistance, we can help you plan your flight. Most people fly into Madrid and then take a connecting flight or a train to Santiago de Compostela.

Can’t make it this year but want to go Cruisin’ with the Colemans next year? As of February 2025, we plan to offer much more group travel! In 2026, we are looking at a walking tour in Italy; in 2027, we are walking the Camino Portuguese from Porto to Santiago. We are also looking at future caravan opportunities for our RV friends! 

*We are not certified travel agents, but we are experienced travelers and educators with over 25 years of leading group experiences. We organize travel experiences to destinations we know well from our own journeys. However, we do not claim to be experts on the various cultures or locations we visit. If available, we may hire a local expert to enhance your travel experience.

 

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From Travel Blog/Vloggers to Tour Guides

Posted on by CruisinColemans

When we started this blog in 2018, we had a long-term goal of leading groups* on adventure travel. Initially, we envisioned this goal for after retirement. However, the time has now come for us to pursue it. We have been inspired and are ready to lean into this new direction. But before I share more about that, let me provide some background on our story.   When we started this blog in 2018, we had a long-term goal of leading groups on adventure travel. Initially, we envisioned this goal for after retirement. However, the time has now come for us to pursue it. We have been inspired and are ready to lean into this new direction. But before I share more about that, let me provide some background on our story.  Brian and I used to lead sedentary lifestyles. When we met and got married, we both weighed over 300 pounds. Although we both enjoyed traveling, we never imagined the adventures we’d had since then. The photo from the mud run (above) was a huge leap for us. We used to joke, “If we’re running, it must be because something bad is happening—like a bear is chasing us!” Haha! We started walking our neighborhood because we had put on even more weight after a year of dating and planning a wedding. I remember when the scale surpassed 300 pounds. I was mortified and needed a change. I was extremely fortunate to be with a man who was up for any crazy idea I had. We started walking our neighborhood, which led to fad diets but a bit of hope that change was possible. This hope led to trying more realistic diets; we did Weight Watchers and transitioned from walking to hiking in local parks.  By 2012, we had both lost over 100 pounds. We spent our time tent camping and hiking epic trails all over the country. Our passion for travel had always been present, but we fully committed to planning significant trips, taking advantage of our ability as teachers to travel for a couple of months at a time.

June 2017 – the moment that changed us forever

In 2017, we embarked on our first Camino de Santiago, backpacking 500 miles across Spain from St. Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostela and continuing on to Finisterre. This experience was life-changing, igniting a passion for travel that grew in ways we never anticipated. In fact, the lessons we learned on that first Camino are still unfolding for us. Less than a week after completing the Camino, we purchased an RV for more travel adventures. Since then, we have RV’d over 50,000 miles through 36 states. We have walked five more Caminos, including the Camino Portuguese, the Camino del Norte, and the Via Francigena.  In 2018, during our first major RV road trip through Ohio, Michigan, Canada, and New York, we launched this blog. We also established our brand, Cruisin’ with the Colemans, because we anticipated that one day—though a long time from now—we would lead group trips. Given our background as teachers and experience leading groups, this felt like a natural progression for us. We have taken students abroad, on cruises, and to New York City, so pursuing this long-term goal seemed like a perfect fit. Foreward to now, Brian is only a couple of years from retirement, and my retirement date depends on our financial stability. But more importantly, we have typically made our summer plans by this time of the year. It’s not for a lack of trying, but nothing felt right. This week, we were honored to host Bill Bennett and his beautiful wife, Jennifer Cluff. We had an outstanding time talking about Camino, travel, and our mutual interests. By the last day, on our last drive together, during a conversation about destinations we should explore, Jennifer asked why we were not leading groups. Our answer has always been, “Because we are waiting until we retire.” I need to reflect on what I just typed. I realized that my previous statement is the complete opposite of everything we stand for. It’s a revelation for me. We’re not about waiting for retirement but about taking action and starting now. Ok, back on track. Our travel plans for 2025 are taking shape, and it is time for you to join us on our first group travel experience*. This will be a 12-day trip walking the Camino de Santiago from Samos to Santiago de Compostela, where you can walk the full 120 kilometers from Sarria to Santiago to earn a Compostela.

Finalized trip details can be found in this more recent blog.

Here is what you can expect on this trip from us:

  • You will have the option to walk all day, every day. If you don’t want to earn the Compostela, you can walk part of the day with less mileage. If you want to bike, okay, we have you covered (this will not earn you a Compostela). You don’t have to walk at all. There will be plenty to do for people of varying physical abilities.
  • The walk will be about 17-25 kilometers or 10-15 miles per day; you can do as much or as little as you want
  • Light continental breakfast, typically coffee and a pastry
  • Communal dinner every night, including multiple courses and wine
  • Private or semi-private (with another group member) rooms that fit your needs. If you want to save a bit of money here, we can work with you on the other types of room/bed accommodations
  • Daily luggage transfer, so all you have to worry about is carrying a light pack with just your snacks and water
  • Transfer to/from Santiago airport at the start of the trip
  • Daytime transfer if you need to skip a part of the walk or just don’t want to walk that much in a day
  • Rest day at the beginning of the trip in Samos to explore the Monastery of San Xulián de Samos, built in the sixth century
  • Rest day near the end of the trip in Santiago de Compostela
  • On the rest day in Santiago, we will explore the Cathedral and do a rooftop tour of the church
  • Enjoy a traditional guiemada ceremony after dinner in Santiago de Compostela
  • Group bus trip to Finisterre to walk to the lighthouse for sunset and celebratory dinner
  • Transfer back to Santiago de Compostela for the end of the trip
  • Advance support for planning your trip 
  • Camino 101 Zoom sessions to get ready and get familiar with those you will be traveling with
  • Help to make travel arrangements to/from Spain, including suggested flights from the US to Spain
  • Credential, pilgrim shell, and travel wallet to carry your pilgrim credential and passport
  • Thumb drive of photos and completed summary videos of your trip
Celebratory Dinner at Cape Finisterre

When is this happening? July 2025, shortly after the 4th of July holiday. The trip will be 12 days, so with your travel days, you are well within a solid two-week vacation. We will have a lot more details very soon.

How much will this cost? We will have details about the final cost of the trip very soon. Your only additional costs will be airfare to/from Spain, lunch, snacks, and personal equipment. We aim to keep this trip around $3,000 per person. From our research, we feel quite good about that number, but we need just a bit more time for a solid number. A deposit of $500 will be due shortly after the trip announcement. We are limiting participation to 12 people. A payment plan will be arranged, with the total amount due 10 days before departure.

This trip will not include:

  • Church or museum admissions outside of Santiago
  • Lunches and snacks
  • Travel insurance (but you are required to show proof of personal medical and travel insurance)
  • Transportation to and from Santiago
  • Personal equipment, such as backpacks, hiking poles, etc.

What’s the next step? Honestly, be ready to make a deposit. We expect the 12 slots will fill fast. We anticipate making the complete announcement next week. We have a few details to implement to ensure the highest quality trip possible. If you go Cruisin’ with the Colemans, you are going in style!  Thank you for following this blog adventure to the end. Our goal remains the same—we want to inspire you to take adventures, but even more so, we want you to take an adventure with us this year!!

Do you have questions? Do you want to make a deposit? Do you want me to know that you are considering making a deposit? Whatever your questions, our email address is cruisinwiththecolemans@gmail.com—we would love to hear from you!

*We are not certified travel agents, but we are experienced travelers and educators with over 25 years of leading group experiences. We organize travel experiences to destinations we know well from our own journeys. However, we do not claim to be experts on the various cultures or locations we visit. We may hire a local expert to enhance your travel experience if available.

You can subscribe to our email list right here. We promise not to spam you and will not share your email with anyone!

 

 

 

Camino del Norte | Bilbao to La Arena | Day 7

Posted on by CruisinColemans

We’ve been walking for a week. My feelings are a mix between excitement about what we’re seeing and a bit of homesickness. I always get this feeling about a week into any summer trip, especially since becoming a grandma.

The Cathedral de Santiago in Bilbao 

This feeling is especially strong when we aren’t meeting a lot of people or creating relationships that last more than a day. We are meeting a lot of people along the Way but we have not made those lasting relationships yet. A lot of people we’ve been walking with ended their Camino in Bilbao. We have faith in the Camino so we know there are good things coming. 

From Bilbao

The two day break in Bilbao was fantastic because we both needed it. My legs were hurting really bad from all the climbing. We slept in, we wandered the city quite a bit, we got massages, and enjoyed a leisurely pace. But, we are on Camino and it was time to begin again today.

Leaving Bilbao is quite industrial, so we took a metro train to Portugalete. This means we walked around Bilbao for about a kilometer to find breakfast and get to our train, then we took a train to Portugalete, and then we wandered around Portugalete for a few kilometers before we started walking the Camino again. The start and stop of today was a bit much for both of us. Once we stopped in Portugalete, we were ready to be done.

The Portugalete Bridge

Portugalete is a cute town! I love the escalator walkways that get you up the hill easily! I love the tram that gets you across the water. The town really is adorable but I’m glad we moved on to La Arena because I wanted to be back on the ocean! In the end, we walked about 16 kilometers.

The walking/bike path connecting Portugalete to La Arena

I love the scenery all around us and I love walking Caminos. However, not every day is a great day. Today wasn’t a bad day, it just wasn’t a great day. The walking was the easiest it’s been thus far. Heck, maybe that was the problem, it was too easy. 😆 We walked a bike/walking path the entire time. I wish we had a walking/bike path this nice in Ohio. It was quite easy walking but my mind just focused on everything that hurts and my homesickness. It happens.

From industrial to rural, the Camino changes

Tonight we’re in an outstanding apartment with a balcony overlooking the ocean and free use of the washing machine. Dinner is less than 200 meters away. Last night we FaceTimed with our son and granddaughter. It doesn’t get much better! I think we may even have a sunset over the water. I have a lot to be thankful for today. ❤️

The view from our apartment tonight

We love sharing our travels with you. Most importantly we love hearing from you! Thanks for the comments and messages! We appreciate you! ❤️

Tomorrow will be a better day.

👉🏼 Why follow our social media channels? For even more photos and stunning videos of our adventures. YouTube videos are coming but they always come out after the blog. 

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Camino del Norte | Zarautz to Deba (and then some) | Day 3

Posted on by CruisinColemans

The views continue to improve. I don’t know how long it will last so I’m trying to take it all in. Though this terrain has my knees and thighs screaming! 

An easy climb

Every kilometer takes a long time and every view takes my breath away or is that the climbing? I don’t know but I’m constantly exhausted. We decided to walk the Norte route because it was hard and had epic views. We’re not getting any younger so we need to check things like this off our bucket list while we still can do them. 

The way our walk started today

I can’t believe this morning started with an easy 5 kilometer walk along the ocean, it was amazing!! This was an optional route and I’m thrilled we took it! The sounds of the waves splashing on the rocks made the walk fly by!

This makes the climb worth it

Then we left the seaside to climb, and oh did we climb! We are just training because tomorrow’s climb is even more intense. I keep telling myself it will get easier but we’re from the flat lands of Ohio where a hill doesn’t even compare to this terrain. And honestly, I don’t mind the climb, my problem is how long it takes me. We’re getting into our accommodations much later than I like to arrive. Some nights our clothes don’t have enough time to dry (in part because we’re having to dry them inside because of the rain). 

The village of Zumaia

We did have to bus ahead a bit today because it was time to get the staples removed from my head and I had to get to a clinic before they closed. Click on this blog post if you don’t know what happened. My head is healing well. I still have headaches quite a bit. We’re taking 2 full rest days in Bilbao which I pray helps. I’m resting a lot when I can, daily naps are a blessing. 

Even the forest is lush

After I got my staples removed, we had about 3.5 kilometers left to walk and a massive climb at about 350 meters (or 1,148 feet). A tough climb especially at the end of the day. We’re staying past the village of Deba at a Casa Rural in the middle of nowhere but with an amazing view of the ocean while perched on a mountainside. 

From our bedroom window

The views are worth it. Tomorrow we’ll have a bit less of a climb, though it’s still going to be another tough day with about 450 more meters of climbing and about 600 meters of descent. 3 days until Bilbao, then 2 full days of rest. 🙌🏼 Maybe we’ll find a boat tour, unless Mother Nature keeps this rain around us.

Time will tell. I would not change a thing! ❤️

👉🏼 Follow our social media channels for more videos and photos throughout our Camino.

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It’s All About Gear: What We Take on Pilgrimage

Posted on by Cruisin Michelle

Gear – Gear – Gear! Let’s talk gear. It’s not my favorite subject to write about but I love to read what others carry in their backpacks, so alas, I need to talk about it too! Haha!

Skip to the end for the list of items and links!

Watch the video on YouTube to see what we’re talking about!

I don’t like talking about it because everyone seems to be an expert. I am not an expert, nor are most people. Though we have had quite a bit of experience at finessing the gear we carry on any trail. We have been day hiking for 15 years, we have backpacked on the Appalachian Trail and other trails, and this is our 3 pilgrimage. We each have some pieces of gear that work superbly and we continue to use, we have some pieces of gear that are right for some types of trails but not others, then we have gear that continues to change as our needs change and the gear improves.

A pilgrim statue on the Via Francigena. He looks like his pack is too heavy or his day has been too long

My backpack is 38 liters. This is my second pilgrimage with it. On our first pilgrimage, I carried a 48 liter pack and it was too big. This one works perfectly for me. Brian carries a 48 liter pack and it’s his third pilgrimage with it. He has never used the brain of the pack so it’s obviously a bit lighter weight/less storage. He loves his pack. Unfortunately it is starting to really show it’s age so he may need to reach out to Osprey before our next trek. While walking on this type of pilgrimage, these are the backpacks we carry but these packs are also great for a 2-4 day backpacking trip.

While walking our 3rd pilgrimage, now on the Via Francigena, I feel like my gear is pretty spot on. I have a few things I would change, but overall, after walking 30 of our 50 days, my pack feels pretty darn good. When it comes to Brian’s pack, well, I think he carries too much but he’s happy so I’m happy. See, everyone has an opinion about gear. However, I think that’s where others should leave their opinions. If you have not gathered yet, people seriously love to analyze gear in every hiking/walking circle we are a part of. It’s an exhausting topic. If someone is happy, let them be, that’s my philosophy. If you want to read about what we carry and a bit of why with pros/cons, continue reading. If you want a summary of what we are carrying now with links to our gear, skip to the end. You can also view our gear and hear us talk about it on our YouTube video.

We are just over halfway through this pilgrimage and it was time to give even the backpack a bath. Ewww…

When it comes to clothes, we are minimalistic. We have one outfit we are wearing and one outfit being hand washed and hanging on a line to dry. Brian does carry one extra shirt that’s a t-shirt. It’s a shirt we can both wear if needed, he likes the back up. I know we going shopping when we get to Rome, so it doesn’t bother us at all to wear the same two outfits. Our clothes are made of tech gear which drys fast, wicks away moisture, and is lightweight.

My pants are from REI. They roll up into capris, they stretch, and the waistband adjusts as (hopefully) I get a bit smaller while backpacking. I love pants because sometimes it’s cool in the evenings, I can hike in them, they are great for churches that require my knees being covered, and they are lightweight. By the way, we are surrounded by the most amazing food, I doubt I am getting smaller. Oh well!

I also have a pair of skorts from Tail which is a golf brand. This is new for me on this Camino. In the past, I have worn leggings and legging shorts. I actually really love my Tail skort. There are lots of options for skorts in the hiking gear world. My challenge was (1) I am a bigger girl and I like my skorts a bit longer and (2) I wanted something that was cute. They are a bit heavier with the thick waistband but it’s actually worked perfectly as a layer between me, my fanny pack, and my backpack. I did have the back pockets removed and sewn closed because they had front pockets and that saved a bit of weight. A big win all around. 

My shirts are also a Tail brand and I love them! I have one that is sleeveless and one that is short sleeves. They are made of polyester and spandex. They wash and dry fast, don’t wrinkle, and I like how they look. That’s a trifecta if you ask me! Brian wears button up shirts from Eddie Bauer and Columbia. He loves the button up shirt but hasn’t been thrilled with the patterns. It’s hard to find something you will still like wearing after 50 days!

Top photo: Via Francigena in 2022; Bottom photo: Camino Frances in 2017

Brian wears two shorts, one is a pair of zip off pants and the other is shorts. Both have big pockets, made of tech gear, and he loves them. One pair is from Eddie Bauer and the other he found on Amazon. There is a summary with links to below.

Undergarments are the same, wash and wear. The first two pilgrimages I wore sports bras that had to be put on over the head, it was awful because I was often so sweaty and sticky from the heat, they rolled up. A bra should not be a two person job. Now I wear a Under Armour zip up sports bra and a regular underwire in the evenings. I like the balance of the two. Sports bras are the most comfortable to wear all day and all night, for me. I wear basic Bali underwear, Brian wears Jockey. They have worked for us for many years. For both of us, our underwear dries the fastest of everything. TMI but important for hikers: I like hiking with panty liners because I think they help with freshness.

When it comes to socks, Brian doesn’t wear any because he hikes in Chacos. I have tried all the different socks from very expensive to the opposite. I have worn double layer socks, toe socks, thin running socks with vaseline to prevent friction, and compression socks. This year I have wool socks and I absolutely love them. I have had one small blister and it was not a big deal to manage. The wool socks take a bit longer to dry but it has not been an issue.

The only other clothing gear we have is our Marmot rain coats. They double as our only long sleeve layer since we sent ahead a few things, I will summarize those items shortly. The rain coats have zippers under the arms for ventilation. They are lightweight and fold up in their own pocket. Some people like ponchos but we prefer rain coats because we can wear them with or without our backpacks. We have rain covers for our packs and that works well.

Since we are spending the summer walking into the sun we decided to bring hats and sun umbrellas (weighing in at only 6.8 oz each). The umbrellas were great when we were walking in heavy rain, even hail one day. We have used them on extremely hot, sunny days when there is no breeze. They don’t work well with a breeze because it stops the air flow. They also don’t work well if you are walking up a steep hill because they limit your view from that angle. I am not sure I would bring it again but it definitely has helped some.

After clothes, we have toiletries. We picked up both of our toiletry kits from REI before our first Camino and we are still using them. Mine unzips, unfolds, and can hang up. Brian has an expandable zippered bag. They are very lightweight, a couple of ounces at best. We share what we can (toothpaste, shaving cream, comb) and carry medium to small bottles where we can’t/won’t share (shampoo, conditioner, soap, toothbrushes, razors, hair ties). See our video for more on that topic.

Most important piece of gear – your shoes!

Shoes are another hot topic. Before this pilgrimage, I desperately wanted to change my shoes out to something lighter weight. Over a year of preparing for this trip, I tried out at least 40 pairs of “these are perfect for me” shoes upon the advice of other hikers. This is where “everyone is different” comes in. I wish I could have a pair of hiking shoes designed for my feet but until that day comes, I will stick with the shoes that have worked. I wear a pair of Merrell’s (link below). For Brian, this is his third pilgrimage hiking in just Chaco’s. He manages cracked heels with vaseline or lotion and a foot scrubber. He hasn’t had any issues and loves hiking in them. 

When it comes to other things we carry, this is all about personal needs and preferences. I carry salt sticks because we are hiking in extreme heat most days, packets to add to our water that have electrolytes, and a small bottle of Advil/Aleve. Brian carries a couple of energy bars for an emergency and electrolyte drops. We both carry our own vitamins and medications. I also carry muscle relaxers for the tough days. We each use hiking poles and wouldn’t backpack with them.

We weren’t planning to tent camp, though you can and many do on this trail. Therefore, we didn’t bring a tent or sleeping bags. However, because of some of the ostellos/albergues/hostels we’re staying in, we needed something for the bed so we carry silk liners. They are perfect for the summer and lightweight. We each carry a lightweight towel because they are not provided in many of our accommodations. We have a small one for our wiping sweat all day, that I also use as a washcloth, and a larger one for drying. The towels we are carrying this time are different than before and we are happy with them.

Before I talk about our blogging/YouTube gear, I need to tell you about the gear we sent on to Rome. When we started this hike, we knew we wanted a few extra things for the cold/cooler weather of Switzerland. When that was over, and the roaring heat wave started, we needed to lighten our packs. Brian gave away his long sleeve shirt and gloves. He shipped ahead a fleece, ear plugs, eye cover, socks, and the legs to his pants. I shipped ahead my leggings, lightweight zip up jacket, eye cover, ear plugs, compression socks, and the vitamins I won’t need until we get to Rome. We used DHL and shipped our box to our accommodation in Rome with their permission. It was relatively easy but we did have the help of a local because you need a VAT number. We can apply for one but we didn’t have that time and we appreciate a local helping us out. When we get to Rome, we will buy suitcases for our shopping spree! Haha!

Finally, there is the gear we need so we can bring you all of this outstanding reporting from the trail. I am minimalistic, again. My phone case has a stand and I carry a portable Bluetooth keyboard. It’s a life saver to my fingers! Brian doesn’t carry much compared to many YouTubers. If you are watching our videos, you see his hiking poles with the phone on one and the GoPro on the other. He also carries an iPad, stand, a portable keyboard, and a small tripod that doubles as a selfie stick.

In 2019 we started our YouTube channel while walking the Camino Frances and Camino Portuguese. Brian only worked from his iPhone and wasn’t happy at all. I barely blogged because I hated not having a keyboard. For 2022, we are both thrilled with what we are carrying.

When we left the states, our backpacks were a bit heavier than we wanted but we knew (1) things like energy packets, electrolytes, and vitamins would lighten the load as they were consumed and (2) we hoped to ship ahead what we weren’t using. Without water, my backpack weighed 18 pounds and Brian’s weighed 22 pounds. I think each of our backpacks are down another 1 ½ to 2 pounds now. The only time my pack is heavy is at the start of a day when I need to carry more than 1 ½ liters of water. Fortunately, that doesn’t happen too often.

I hope you found this blog helpful when it comes to gear on a pilgrimage. Like I said at the start, it’s really about personal preference but I know the experiences of others helps to make good decisions about what you will carry. Here is a summary with links to where we got it.

Michelle’s Backpack

Brian’s Backpack

VF Day 25-26: Two Bees, a Swarm of Flies, and Relentless Gnats

Posted on by Cruisin Michelle

I’m always excited for new scenery, entering the Apennine Mountains was no exception after the long, flat days of the Po Valley. I’m like a kid who is excited but forgets every time how much work the mountains can be to hike.

I can’t talk more about a balanced life yet (see last blog post). Right now, I feel like an amateur hiker again. I’m tired and I need a nap after the constant up and down of the day. The views have been good but the mileage between villages is long and the mileage of the stages is even longer. I’m trying to embrace the longer days and the climbs, it’s what I wanted, but it doesn’t mean I enjoy every moment of every day.

Yesterday we hiked on loose gravel with inclines both up and down at over a 50% grade at times. It was steep, wait until you see the YouTube video about it (it will be linked at the bottom when it’s out). We were having fun with it, laughing and joking a lot, until the third big hill and then the trail got silent. We were both exhausted, the elevation map didn’t look nearly as tough as the actual trail, and we were each having our own silent pissy fits.

Can see how steep this was?!

Then came the bees. They would not leave me alone, I was swinging my polls around like a mad woman. Next came the flies, crap, they were intense. I hated the entire world. And of course, because they haven’t left me alone in over in a week, there were the relentless knats. Gnats that looked like tornado tunnels passing by and through me. Why, oh why, did it have to be all three?

I couldn’t stop walking for fear they would land on me. It wasn’t enjoyable to stop and look around. I kept walking. I kept trying to outpace these treacherous beasts. I would have paid a lot of money for my hiking pole to turn into a fly swatter!

Deconstruction is the ultimate test of a true warrior!

Despite all of that, it was those stupid, relentless, swarms of insects that got me through a tough day. I’m not going to thank them, let’s not go that far. Brian didn’t have to pull out the bee sting kit so there’s that good news.

We accomplished another mountain pass, another goal, and for that I am thankful. We also surpassed our halfway mark of walking 50 total days on this trip. Tomorrow: We hike again, we climb again. That’s just the pilgrimage we’re on. Maybe in the end I will feel like the warrior I know I am deep inside.

The views as we start to enter Tuscany

Here’s the link to the YouTube video to Cella. Here’s the link to the video to Fronovo di Taro.

Walking stats from Fidenza to Cella – 17.1 km

  • Lodging – Fraternità Francescana di Betania – donation based, included lunch, dinner, and breakfast the next morning

Walking stats from Cella to Fronovo di Taro – 18.8 km

  • Lodging – La Vecchia Quercia Bed and Breakfast – €80

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

VF Day 16-18: Finding Joy in the Long, Flat Road & Teaching

Posted on by Cruisin Michelle

This long flat road from Santhia to Pavia reminds me first of the Meseta on the Camino Frances only longer. My photos are all same, I am tired of the views, and my inspiration isn’t coming like it was just a few days ago. It also reminds me of how a 15 week semester can feel.

Finding the beauty when the terrain doesn’t change

At the beginning of the semester everyone is filled with excitement, the students are diligently reading the assigned chapters, and they have set lofty goals for the term. Even after 24 years, I am inspired by their enthusiasm every single time… and then we settle into a routine.

Before long the honeymoon phase is over. The students are working two jobs, have a family, and are taking a full load of classes. They aren’t reading consistently before they come to class. I’m trying to raise their energy level but they are realizing how lofty their goals really were from the start.

I’m swamped with grading, committee work is intense and usually a waste of time, but dang it I have a job to do. I want them to love Public Speaking. See, see I have lofty goals too. Haha!

Finding moments to process all we feel

Teaching is much like being on a pilgrimage. In the beginning we are excited to embark on the new adventure, we are instantly inspired by everything around us, have completed the research, and oh yes, we have set our own lofty goals.

Then the routine settles in. We are more experienced than the typical student so we think we are ahead of the game. This is our third pilgrimage, so we are well-versed about what the routine will be – eat, walk, eat, walk, wash clothes, eat, sleep, repeat. But it only takes one tough semester for a student to figure out their routine. Experience can happen quickly out of desperation to stay afloat.

Something happens in the semester that requires a lot more of my energy to build them up, engage them, and remind them how important Public Speaking really is to their future. Good thing I am the queen of passion when it comes to Communication courses. I need that same mustering up of spark when the days on pilgrimage are long and boring.

Just like in a semester, on pilgrimage, I know what happens after the honeymoon phase is over. It’s the same thing that happens to me, my students, and yes, even to my professional clients. Life happens. All of a sudden you realize the five other projects you have put off doing and now they are due, someone gets sick, a bad nights sleep, maybe something stole your creativity, or maybe your schedule feels too monotonous to bear.

We are currently in the part of our pilgrimage where my creativity was stolen and, at the same time, my schedule is feeling quote monotonous. Some days Brian is the creative one. Have you seen his animated video game YouTube video from our walk? If not, click here. Other days, I try to be the creative one. Here’s my attempt at a TV show on the Via Francigena, click here.

We make a great team and together we get through the tough days. In comparison, I wish I could team teach. Creativity multiplies amongst creative people. A team gives one person the space to have a bad day, work through their emotions, while the other person cheers the team along.

Until the day comes when I can team teach, I will learn the lesson before me – a team comes from anyone around you and I when I don’t have my husband with me, I usually have an outstanding group of students eager to be on my team.

Keep moving forward

I look forward to the days ahead, the next phases of our pilgrimage, and I pray for that easy feeling of daily inspiration. I will continue to make notes which will come in handy when inspiration in low in my “regular life.” For now, I will rely on my teammate while on this pilgrimage.

Check out these two days on YouTube!

Then check out our ridiculous attempt at singing our way through the Via Francigena on this YouTube video!

Walking stats from Robbio to Mortara – 15.78 km

  • Lodging – B&B Antica Corte Lombarda – € 77

Walking from Mortora to Tromello – 13.6 km

  • Lodging – Hotel Duca di Tromello – € 75

Train from Tromello to Garlasco – 5.4 km. Walk from Garlasco to Pavia – 18 km

  • Lodging for 2 nights in Pavia – B&B Castellani – €171

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

The VF Day 14 & 15: Toilet Paper, Food, & A Soft Bed

Posted on by Cruisin Michelle

Ramblings from the Via Francigena…

I don’t ask for much when we’re on pilgrimage. Having our most basic needs met is really all we desire which means availability of decent toilet paper, food, and a soft bed. 😆 Unfortunately, that is asking too much at times. 😏 The biggest difference between the pilgrimage we are on and the traditional understanding of backpacking is the aforementioned luxuries.

Remember the toilet paper crisis of 2020? How could we forget! Toilet paper is still an important topic though, right? Let me tell you during the first week of this pilgrimage, we had outstanding toilet paper. Oh Switzerland, I don’t know what you do to make your toilet paper so grand but I would love to invest stock in it and bring it to the United States. I mean, it’s that good, friends. Since we have arrived in Italy the quality has diminished. I think you understand the challenge and I’m sure I have said enough on the topic.

You read about my challenges with finding food in an earlier blog, if you didn’t, click here. Lately, finding food has not been too much of a problem. We do need to review where we are walking each day to ensure there will be a stop for food. If there isn’t, we have to prepare for the long stretch without food by finding a market the night before. We start walking early in the morning to beat the heat. Unfortunately dinner isn’t typically served until at least 7 p.m. but I am grateful at this point for finding food at all. I’m sure there will be more on good in future blogs.

My last rambling today is about the importance of a good nights sleep. Let me say, as a backpacker, my lightweight backpacking inflatable mattress is often more comfortable than the beds we have slept in since entering Italy.

Mattresses for sale in Vercelli!

I wish I would have brought my inflatable mattress but I didn’t know it would be this much of a problem. I thought the snoring of other pilgrims would be my biggest issue. But, nope! Don’t get me wrong, I am not looking for the most luxurious feather bed. I would just prefer the bed be more comfortable than the ground. It is hard enough to walk this many miles day-after-day but when you add a bad nights sleep to the mix, it makes the walking even more challenging.

Last night was the first time in a week I had an outstanding night’s sleep. I wish I could take that bed with me. Today’s walk was easier because my low back and hips weren’t screaming at me.

Maybe I’m asking too much. Maybe I want to think about more than just my most basic human needs. I am a researcher of Maslow and I know I can’t self actualize if I am always worried about my basic needs. Maybe I should stop worrying and be thankful for a roof over my head and any toilet paper at all. Maybe I shouldn’t worry about self actualizing. Maybe I already have or maybe I should just stop rambling about all of it.

That’s all I have for you today. Be thankful for your bounty, your bed, of course, your toilet paper!

Stats walking from Santhià to Vercelli – 10 km plus a train for 16 km so we could enjoy an afternoon in Vercelli. We definitely should have planned a rest day here, what a great town! Check out our YouTube video too!

  • Lodging at La Terrazza Vercelli Bed & Charme – €118 – outstanding bed and air conditioning on a very hot day. Paid too much but worth it for an outstanding nights sleep!

Stats walking from Vercelli to Robbio – 17.64 km. Check out our YouTube video here!

  • Lodging for at Agriturismo Pescarolo/Casa del Pellegrino – €60 for a private room with a shared bathroom and back to the typical bed with no air conditioning.

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

The Via Francigena Day 13: A Contemplation Bench

Posted on by Cruisin Michelle

Sometimes we all need a spot to rest, to think, to regroup, to pause, and of course, to contemplate.

Considering how I felt about the long downhill walk into Aosta, Italy

When we did our practice Camino on the Little Miami Scenic trail in March, see blogs here, I needed more benches then I ever saw along the trail. The trail is more designed for cyclists so there were plenty of benches, just further apart. I’m not complaining, it was way too cold to sit and consider anything other than, “Dang, I’m cold!”

It was while I was reminiscing about my feelings from March on our first day of walking the Via Francigena when I saw a bench and said to Brian, “I need a minute to contemplate.” What I wanted to say was, “I’m tired, I can’t believe we’re doing this, what were we thinking, I’m too fat, I’m not ready, this is hard, Rome is far away…” You get the idea. It was one big holy cow moment.

Taking a moment to contemplate on our 2nd day of walking

Ever since that day, when we pass by a bench I say to Brian, “Do you need a minute to contemplate?” Unless of course I have already told him I need a minute. There’s a lot of value in acknowledging your emotional state, sitting down to think about what you need, how to say something, or what you can do about what you’re feeling, before just pushing onward. It’s definitely a metaphor we can apply to how we communicate with our partner.

When we push through our emotions, trying to ignore any pain we are feeling, we are doing a disservice to others who have to be around us in that state. Emotions are a tricky beast. One minute we can be dancing in the streets, having that I’m on top of the world feeling. The next we trip over a rock on an old Roman road and are mad at the world for putting us in that position.

We know the Roman’s didn’t come back from the past to move the rock so we trip over it, but sometimes, if we aren’t managing our emotions, it can feel that way. Sometimes that top of the world feeling is genuine, other times there is something we are trying to suppress, so in turn, we need a contemplation bench.

We don’t need to stop at every bench we see but we do intentionally contemplate our feelings before they get out of control. Brian and I are together 24/7 as we tax our bodies to their maximum during the hottest days of summer.

We’re together this much most summers so it’s not like it’s something new but it’s not every year that we decide to backpack over 900 kilometers in 50 days. Wow, I need a contemplation bench.

A beautiful place to rest or contemplate provided by someone who lives on the Via Francigena

I will leave you with this, contemplating your emotions before they explode will help you and the ones you love. Just pull up a contemplation bench and rest in what you feel until you understand it yourself. Your relationship will thank you.

Stats walking from Roppollo to Santhià – 16 km. Check out our YouTube video too!

  • Lodging for 2 nights at Hotel Ristorante Vittoria– €144 – what we liked about this accommodation was that patrons of the hotel had full access to the bar and restaurant even though it was closed to the public on Monday.

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles