Camino del Norte | Irún to San Sebastián, Spain | Day 1

Have you ever gone on a walk or hike for views but been disappointed? This almost happened to us during our walk from Irún, Spain to San Sebastián. But when I’m on the Camino, nothing can kill my mood.

Views from day 1 leaving Irún

We usually prefer not to cover a lot of ground on the first day of the Camino, as it’s important to pace ourselves since we have 36 more days of walking ahead. However, we walked 14.5 miles for two reasons. First, we didn’t experience jet lag as we had already been in Europe for a week. Second, we knew we were going to have a rest day in San Sebastián, which is what we’re doing now as I lay here typing this blog. As much as I enjoy our adventures, I also love a good rest day with zero miles walked. 🥰

The weather tried hard to kill my mood yesterday. We decided to take the high road which was much steeper but the payoff was supposed to be the views. And we did have some amazing views…until the fog, wind, rain, and for a short time, hail moved in. Oh my gosh, we couldn’t see 10 feet in front of us. 

The fog before it rolled in even more

This happened to us in 2017 on the Camino Francés where the fog rolled in terribly as we climbed the Pyrenees hoping for views. It happens. We can’t let it get us down, we’re going to have plenty of days with amazing views. 

But what we did see was breathtaking! From the sea to the mountains, then there were horses, colts, cows, and of course wildflowers! 

An easy part of the trail

“They” say the Camino doesn’t give you what you want, rather it gives you what you need. I didn’t need the rain and hail but what it forced me to do was focus on my feet and I did need to watch every step because the terrain was treacherous. The trail was rocky and muddy, fortunately, it wasn’t too slippery but if I hadn’t been watching my step, I’d be dealing with another head injury (read more about that here).

Dinner (with gluten free bread) and Netflix

We made it to San Sebastián tired and sore. It was 6 pm before we got into our room! For reference, we like to arrive at our hotel by 1-2 pm to shower and grab lunch before siesta. Instead, we stopped at a market for this delicious spread. It was our version of “Netflix and chill” and we never left the room. We were exhausted!

The Village of Pasaia Gipuzkoa before the ferry ride

It’s a new day and we are in beautiful San Sebastián so it’s time to explore. Bye for now! 

If you haven’t had enough and you want to see our walk, check out our video from today’s walk.

https://youtu.be/SAJLkUrDiLs

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Arriving in Irún, Spain

We’ve arrived in Irún, Spain, in the northeast tip of Spain. It’s gorgeous here! I can feel the Camino energy all around me. We’re excited to start our Camino but what an adventure thus far. I’m starting the Camino a bit broken but don’t we all start that way?

We’d tried something new this year which was to enjoy a bit of holiday (vacation) time before we started our Camino. I’m not sure it was the best idea. You can read about that in a previous blog. In short, I cut my head open on a set of marble stairs. I have staples in my head and I had a terrible – just awful – hospital experience. 

What should we do?

What does that mean for our Camino? I’m not completely sure. I’ve been resting a lot the past couple of days. My head still hurts, there’s still bleeding. Tomorrow is a very challenging day with multiple, big climbs. The plan is to walk 5 kilometers to our first town, then assess again. I may decide to taxi to the next town, I may decide to try the climb. I’m tuned into my body and I’ll do my best to listen. 

The Camino is busy!! We’ve heard some pilgrims are struggling because they haven’t made advance reservations. If you’re walking the Camino del Norte, there are lots of options around here to stay but you would be wise to book in advance. We use the Wise Pilgrim app and the Cicerone guide book to make our decisions for lodging and route planning. We book everything in advance, don’t judge, it’s our Camino our way.

I’m glad we decided to start in Irún. It’s got everything we need, including tapas (fresh, warm appetizer bites) and café con leche (Spanish coffee). Of course there are grocery stores, pharmacies, bakeries, sporting goods stores, and even a gluten free bakery!!! 🙌🏼 These are all essentials on our Camino. 

We’ve hand washed our clothes, rested the afternoon away, and now it’s time to find an evening meal before we drift off for the night and our Camino truly begins. 

Warm goat cheese salad with bacon and pine nuts

When we entered our hotel in Irún, my daypack fell over and my shell broke. I’m truly starting this Camino broken in so many way. I pray for healing as we walk.

If you have questions about the Camino, this is our 6th one so we’ll be happy to answer them below. 

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles