VF Day 44-45: The Highs of Pilgrimage

Brian told me that my last blog on the lows of pilgrimage was not the happiest blog I’d ever written. Haha! You can read it, if you dare, by clicking here.

It was real. My emotions were quite raw and I was not feeling the best about this pilgrimage. I promised myself to write like I am only talking to myself and I did because I need to remember those emotions. But I also need to remember the good feelings.

I wanted to quit, but of course, I would never let myself quit. It’s not who I am. But by allowing myself to settle into those raw, ugly emotions, it reminded me to look at the other side of this pilgrimage. So let’s do just that – look at the bright side of life (whistle along if you know the reference)!

I love pilgrimage for many reasons. The first and most important is the simplistic nature of it. When we are traveling by car or RV so much can go wrong, and has gone wrong in our experience. Just look at our RV video vlogs on YouTube. For this trek I needed 2 outfits, a raincoat, and good shoes. When does the average person live on that for 2½ months. Pilgrimage is simple.

It’s way more than simplicity, pilgrimage is about giving yourself the space to just go for a long walk and think about whatever you want. I love to think about my goals for the new school year, to develop personal goals, to consider how I want my relationships to look, and of course, I love to think about where I want to go next. Brian and I get into some outstanding conversations about how we see our future. Pilgrimage gives us the space to think.

A pilgrim statue in Montefiascone

When do you ever get your spouse’s undivided attention for this many hours in a day and this many days in a row? Um, never! But, while on pilgrimage, we have each other’s undivided attention and it is the best thing in the world for a relationship. Pilgrimage helps us grow closer together.

The sheep herder was sitting on a rock in shade, probably laughing at us

We have seen most of the United States but only as tourists. While we are on pilgrimage, we are not tourists. We are welcomed into people’s homes and their places of worship. We see small villages that a tourist would never even know to visit. We are living and walking amongst the farmers and sheep herders as they go about their daily life. We are only collecting memories and photos, there is no room for luxuries. Pilgrimage gives us the opportunity to experience a new culture.

The relationships that are born from pilgrimage are like no other. I guess the only comparison I have is the friends we meet when we are camping, maybe that’s why we are drawn to camping. When you spend days upon days walking with someone new, you get to experience who they really are vs. the face they normally portray to the world. Pilgrimage creates a deep level of intimacy with those you meet.

The Via Francigena cannot be compared to other pilgrimages that we have completed. Nor should it be. We knew this was going to be different. It has fulfilled what I love about pilgrimage. And the food, oh my gosh, we love the food. Speaking of, it’s about time for dinner. And you know I don’t want to be late! 

Thanks for following along. I hope you have enjoyed my reflections while we walking the Via Francigena. If there something you want me to talk about, you know how to reach me! Please share my blogs if you think they would help others.

Ciao! Ciao!

Walking stats from to Bolsena to  Montefiascone – 15.3 km

  • Lodging at Palazzo Frigo – €90

Walking stats from Montefiascone to Viterbo – 18.3 km

  • Lodging at Viterbo B&B – €70 (includes a small discount for pilgrims, if you book directly with them)

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

VF Day 19-20: Need Camino Magic?

As we continue to meander through the Po Valley, I am constantly surprised by what the famous Camino magic brings our way.

Camino magic is a term we learned on our first pilgrimage. I don’t remember where specifically but probably on Dan Mullins Camino podcast. If you’ve never heard of it, you are missing out! Dan is an outstanding interviewer and the stories about the Camino are magical in and of themselves.

I believe in the power of Camino Magic. Whenever I doubt the magic will happen, it does, just like that. Oh my, has my doubt appeared more than once during this hot, flat, repetitive section of our pilgrimage.

Camino magic came when a bar appeared during a hot afternoon when I was out of water and starving. That happens more often than not.

Camino magic came when I was struggling with everyone speaking other languages around us for days. I was feeling extremely low, we walked up to a bar, and I heard a table full of people speaking English.

Camino magic came when we had been visiting a lot of churches but there were never people in any of them. Then we entered a church where music was playing, people were singing, and there was life all around me.

Camino magic came after we passed through multiple deserted villages when we walked into a village that wasn’t only filled people but it was market day!

Camino magic came again yesterday. We’ve seen very few pilgrims at all thus far. After 20 days of walking we haven’t shared a meal with any English speaking pilgrims. Yesterday, we stayed at the local church and there were 4 other pilgrims. We shared rooms, shared a drink before dinner, enjoyed a fabulous meal together, and there was plenty of great conversation I could understand. It was just the magic we needed.

Last night with our 4 new pilgrim friends

Finally, tonight we are staying in Cort Sant’Andrea, population 22. There is a restaurant in town so we skipped lunch to arrive early and beat the heat. Bad decision, the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays (today). This is where the key to the church hostel was located so we were quite surprised it would be closed today. We found a back door to the restaurant and when we walked in people were laughing and eating. I smiled so big because up until that point we had barely eaten. Unfortunately, the woman running the kitchen told us she was done serving food. I gently begged, “maybe just a panini?” She looked at my pathetic face and then her husband. They exchanged looks and she brought us both a sandwich. When he offered us water and a beer, we joyfully said yes! Finally, he offered us a little dessert. Life was ok again. Mind you, the others in the restaurant were being offered fresh fruit, coffee with liquor, and more. They must have been locals or family, with a population of 22 that is probably one in the same. I didn’t care, much, we were fed and spent €16.

The dinner we made tonight with the ingredients left for us by Giovanni who runs the hospice. We made spaghetti with fresh zucchini & garlic sautéed on the side

Camino magic isn’t about getting what you want, rather it’s about getting what you need. We’ve never gone to bed hungry, we’ve always had a bed to sleep in, we’ve experienced the kindness of strangers, and we hope to have a few lasting friendships before this experience is over.

Camino magic is ultimately experiencing faith. Faith in others, faith in yourself, faith that someone is watching out for you and guiding your way. In this case, it’s our way to Rome and I have faith we will arrive there well taken care of and with a bit more faith.

We got a little crazy in our video to Pavia. Hint: There’s a lot of singing going on! 🤦🏻‍♀️ Check out our video here!

Here’s our video from the days listed below.

Walking stats from Pavia to Santa Cristina e Bissone – 14 km

  • Lodging – Parrocchhia di Santa Cristina e Bissone – donation

Walking stats from Santa Cristina e Bissone to Corte Sant’Andrea – 23 km

  • Lodging – Hospice Ad Padum including a kitchen with what we needed to make dinner – donation

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles