10 Reflections from our 2019 Camino – Part 1

“OUR TOP TEN REFLECTIONS MAY NOT SURPRISE YOU, BUT OUR NUMBER ONE WILL LEAVE YOU STUNNED”

We walked part of the Camino Frances and all of the Camino Portuguese in June and July of 2019. As of today, we’ve been home for exactly a month. We have been extremely busy since we’ve been home with little time to reflect but the Camino is always on our mind. Creating a list of our top 10 reflections is tough because it may be too early to genuinely process our experiences. However, we think this is a pretty good representation.

#10 – Every Camino is Different

We didn’t consciously go into this Camino with a list of expectations; however, since we walked the Camino Frances, from St. John Pied de Port, France to Finisterre, in 2017 we unconsciously had more expectations than we realized. For example, being teachers the overall time of year we walked was the same for both. However, we started in León, Spain this trip around the 10th of June when last time we didn’t arrive in León until the 4th of July. A month makes a difference that we didn’t expect. Last time it was the festival season, this time it was large groups of school children walking the Camino as their end of the year school trip.

Additionally, we heard the Camino Portuguese has fewer people; however, we figured that would make people want to bond more. Not in our case, remember every Camino is different, people were already in self-proclaimed groups or wanted to be alone. The other factor we had is we biked from Lisbon to Porto and then walked from Porto to Santiago so we didn’t have the ability to follow at the same pace as others. The final major unexpected factor was the sheer foot pain I was in for most of the trip. I wasn’t the happiest person all of the time and it greatly impacted our experience.

#9 – The Camino Tells You When to Stop

The Camino Provides – In Room Massages

This is a tough one for me to admit because I want to be unstoppable. However, the Camino will humble anyone. In January through March of 2017, I was in a walking boot for a stress fracture on the top of my left foot. We walked the Camino Frances that year in June and July. The Camino wasn’t too bad, I had my bad days and I should have had foot surgery as soon as we returned home. But I didn’t. Sadly, after more over-training and overuse, I was back in a walking boot from March to May 2019 for two stress fractures on the top of the same foot. I needed surgery but the Camino was calling. I scheduled my surgery for August 2019. As of now, I am 2 weeks post-op and though I can’t bear weight on my foot, I am in significantly less pain.

If you skip to the end of the video below, you will see my reflections about walking the Camino after only 3 weeks into our 8 week trip. I was humbled, broken, and yet inspired by what I was learning from the Camino. Another pilgrim on the Camino said, “listen to the whispers before they become screams.” He was right, great advice, the Camino is always talking to you.

Our Last 2 days on the Camino Frances and Reflections of 300 Miles Walking this Camino

#8 – Never Judge Someone’s Footwear

No, these aren’t our hiking shoes, but they are shoes made of cork that we brought home from Portugal

Yes, there is an unintentional theme going on here regarding feet but when it comes to the Camino it is the most important discussion, food is second and it’s next on our list so hang tight. Brian and I are completely different when it comes to foot problems, I have a lot and he has none. He walked our 2017 and 2019 Caminos entirely in Chaco sandals, linked below, and had zero feet problems. He used O’Keeffe’s Healthy Feet cream every night to help with dry skin.

I need to wear one specific pair of shoes, they need to fit my feet with bunions and hammertoes and need to be wide-ish but my feet are not wide enough for wide shoes. Not all Merrell shoes work for me but the Moabs, linked below, are a great shoe for me. Additionally, I love toe socks and wool socks. I alternate wearing them both when hiking. Unfortunately for this Camino because I was in a boot for so long and I was trying out a different pair of Merrell’s I didn’t wear my Moab’s. Big mistake, always trust the shoes you know. If you can walk all day around an amusement park and still want to continue the next day, those are the shoes to walk in.

Every single person on the Camino is wearing the shoes they think will be the best, some based on experience, others based on someone else’s input. So many people expressed shock when they saw Brian in his Chacos but never said anything to me. However, I was the one struggling.

#7 – The Food in Portugal is Amazing

We didn’t know what to expect when it came to Portuguese food as it’s not a cuisine that you hear about in restaurants. But holy cow were we pleasantly surprised when we arrived! The food was flavorful, colorful, and though there were common staples, there was a nice variety. The one thing we knew was Portugal was known for their pastries and they did not disappoint. They had both sweet and savory, you could find them on every corner, and we ate a lot of them! Haha

Our favorite restaurant on the Camino Portuguese was Tudo aos Molhos in Sao Joao da Madeira. Jorge, the owner and host, takes a level of pride in the food he serves that is rarely seen in home kitchens, let alone busy restaurants. For us, this place is probably the biggest not to miss stop of Portugal! You can see our meal beginning at 2:52 in the video below.

The bottom line is we ate our way through Portugal and it was amazing! If you have favorite Portuguese food, leave a comment.

#6 – Porto has Port, Lisbon has Soul

The view of Porto from across the river

We thought for sure we would love Porto more than Lisbon. Why? I have no idea, maybe something we heard, maybe the draw of Port wine, maybe the water, who knows. I am not sure why we were trying to pick one over the other except that we had 3 days at the end of our trip and we were trying to decide where to spend those days. Early in our trip planning, we picked Lisbon without much thought and then we changed our minds but we were locked into a non-refundable hotel. This all happened before we saw either city but we had to stick with spending our 3 days in Lisbon and we pouted about it for a few months. Now, I am disappointed that we spent so much time pouting because from the moment the plane landed for a 7 hour layover in Lisbon we were in love.

The neighborhood of Alfama in Lisbon

The beach, the buildings, the character, the Tuk-Tuks, the people, the wine, the music, and the neighborhoods, there is so much to say about Lisbon. Brian created a “48 hours in Lisbon” video, it’s linked below. There will also be another 48 hour video about Lisbon in the coming weeks, subscribe to our YouTube channel to get notified when that video drops.

We stayed in the neighborhood of Alfama both times we were in Lisbon, both during our layover between Camino’s and at the end of the trip. The first time we were in Lisbon they were celebrating the Festa de Lisboa which celebrates the barrios (neighborhoods) of Lisbon for the entire month of June. The whole city is decked out for the party and it is sure not to disappoint. Grilled sardines in the street, fado music floating out of doorways, vino Porto, Ginja, sangria, and so many more drinks to sample keep partiers going all night long for the entire month! Alfama is one of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods having survived the earthquake of 1755 and they take the party up a notch. During the rest of the year, Alfama is a little quieter during the day, but in the evenings this neighborhood comes to life and should not be missed.

48 hours in Lisbon – The 1st of 2 Mini Travel Guides

Wait? Where are the last 5 reflections? I’m sorry, you’ll have to wait until next week. But I promise it will be worth the wait. There is still much to reflect upon, it’s too much for one blog post. I will give you a hint – when we walk the Camino again, we won’t do it the same way. Our number one reflection even shocked us!

We will have a YouTube video out on Sunday and another blog post will come out on Wednesday. Be sure to subscribe to both our blog and our YouTube channel if you like what you are reading.

Until next time…

The Camino on YouTube

We haven’t been blogging this summer but we’ve been posting about two videos a week about our Camino adventures. Have you checked them out? We’d love to share our Camino with you! Go to YouTube.com/CruisinwiththeColemans to catch up on our videos.

We walked about 300 kilometers on the Camino Frances from León to Santiago in June. Then we flew down to Lisbon, Portugal to complete the Camino Portuguese. We rode bikes from Lisbon to Porto, walked the coastal route from Porto to Caminha, took a boat over to Tui, then finished by walking Tui to Santiago. We arrived in Santiago on July 24th to enjoy the beginnings of the Feast of St. James.

We have one more adventure before we say goodbye to the Camino. We will leave on July 27 to walk to Muxia and then walk on to Finisterre.

You can follow the remainder of our journey on Instagram and Facebook. Our YouYube channel is a few weeks behind where we are now but they are worth the wait for sure!

For now we say, “Buen Camino,” and we will see you when we’re blogging again this fall.

He Said, She Said: 5 Questions on el Camino de Santiago

As the school year winds to a close, we are getting very excited about our upcoming trek on the Camino de Santiago. As you probably already know, in 2017 we hiked the 550 mile Camino Frances from Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago and then on to Finisterre. This summer we will be repeating part of that trek, walking from Leon to Santiago but also walking the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago and the Camino Fisterre, walking from Santiago to Muxia to Finisterre and back to Santiago for a total of 1,162 km (722 miles) over a two month period. Today we bring you “his” thoughts and “her” thoughts about our upcoming adventure as we answer the top five questions that we hear most often.

What are you most excited about?

Brian: Revisiting some of our favorite cities (such as Astorga and O’Cebreiro) along the Camino Frances is really exciting but I am most looking forward to being back in Santiago on Feast Day. Seeing the fiesta from a pilgrim’s perspective was a great experience and getting to participate again now that the exterior of the Cathedral is finished is going to be awesome.

The opening of the Festival at the Cathedral in Santiago

Michelle: I agree that seeing the Fiesta in Santiago again will be fantastic, especially since the Cathedral is complete on the outside so I hope the projections will be on the Cathedral this year. But, ultimately, I am most excited about walking every day with friends! Walking next to my best friend, meeting new friends, meeting up with an old friend in Portugal, and sharing this incredible moment in time with so many other pilgrims.

What are you most nervous about?

Brian: On the Camino Frances we were averaging about 13 miles a day with frequent stops every 5-8 km. In Portugal, the villages are further apart and our days will be significantly longer with an average of 16 miles a day. Add to that the fact that we are further south and the summer heat can be brutal, I think there is plenty to be nervous about!

Michelle: Yes, what he said! I am nervous about how early we will have to get up in the morning to beat the heat. Also, the last time we walked the Camino, we were so lucky with the rain. It only rained twice while we were walking the entire summer. I am hoping for cooler temperatures and the rain is tolerable. But, what I am most nervous about, and it’s something I haven’t shared with people who don’t see me in person. I injured my foot when we were in Gatlinburg in March. I have been walking with a boot because of two stress fractures on the top of my foot. The doctor said I will be healed by the end of May and can do light walking until we leave on June 10th. Unfortunately, I fear re-injury. However, we have accepted that we may need to taxi ahead and accommodate as needed. There is magic on the Camino and I am praying some healing magic comes my way. Brian is quite patient and we always have each others back in tough situations like this one. Safety is always goal number one.

Along the trail

What village are you most looking forward to?

Brian: Duh, Porto, the home of Port wine! We plan to do plenty of Port tasting while we are there. I’m also really excited about Tomar. While we are there, the Fiesta de los Tabuleiros will be happening. The Festival of Trays only takes place every four years and just happens to coincide with our layover. For me, one of the primary reasons for hiking the Camino is to experience the local culture and big festivals are a great way to meet locals.

Photo from Visitportugal.com

Michelle: Mmmmm port, tinto, cheese, pastries, festivals. Let me dream about all of that for a moment! I don’t have one particular village in mind but I am excited that the first and last legs of our trip will be a repeat of some of our favorite spots. I love Foncebadón because it’s this super tiny village that many pilgrims stay at in order to hike to Cruz de Ferro at sunrise. O Cebreiro is another tiny village that we couldn’t stay at last time because they didn’t have any rooms, I am looking forward to staying there this time. If the village is tiny, I am looking forward to it. The big cities overwhelm me because Brian wants to walk them! Haha

What are you doing differently this time?

Brian: My packing list is a little different this time. I’m taking less clothing and getting rid of some of the same extras that Michelle mentions below. I’ve decided to take a dice game (Farkle) for evenings in the albergue (but to save weight, I’ve created an online score sheet on Google Drive). I also have some new camera gear that you can read more about in the next question.

Michelle: I am taking a smaller pack going from 48 liters to 36 liters. I am not taking a sleeping liner or towel because we will be in private rooms and they are provided for you. The biggest thing I am doing differently, beyond the “stuff,” is a shift in attitude. I was overwhelmed last time. This is a big adventure, far from home, where nobody speaks your language (or so I thought). I didn’t know if we could do it. This time, I know we can. I am more open to the relationships that form on the Camino. I am open to whatever food we eat as a pilgrim. I am open to the entire experience, in a way that I was not before. What a blessing.

Pilgrim’s dinner at Orrison

What is the most essential piece of gear you are taking?

Brian: Because we are documenting this trip more actively on YouTube and our blog (we hope), my gear is probably the most essential equipment. I’ve found new trekking poles that can double as a monopod and I have a gimbal to help with better video quality. I’ll also be bringing a boom mic for voice-overs. All of the videos will be shot on a new iPhone X that I’ll be upgrading to in the coming weeks.

Michelle: I am adding extra shoe insoles because mine were quite beaten up last time. Finally, as of this moment and this could change, I am taking 3 pairs of shoes to help manage my foot problems. I am taking my Merrell Moab 2 hiking shoes and my New Balance 880 tennis shoes which I will switch between during the day, and then my Chacos for evenings and rest days. Again, we’ll see but I have to figure out how to manage my foot problems.

There you have it, another edition of He Said, She Said. We are just counting down the days, practicing our tinto arm, making sure we have all of our gear, purging as much as possible, and most importantly wrapping up the school year so when we return we will be ready to start another year. Do you still have a lingering question about the Camino? Leave a comment below! Your question may just show up in our next He Said, She Said blog post.

Outside the Templar castle in Ponferrada

If you haven’t already, make sure you click the subscribe button on our YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/cruisinwiththecolemans and click on the bell so you will be notified when a video is posted.

Meet our new YouTube Channel!

For some reason, we have been really nervous to start a YouTube channel. I think that watching our favorite vloggers such as Keep Your Daydream, Less Junk More Journey, and Gone With the Wynns has created some pressure that was just overwhelming. We tried shooting a video back over the summer but never pulled the trigger to upload it because we just weren’t happy with the content. I think it’s also about making sure we have the time to dedicate to a good YouTube channel. I don’t know if we have found the time, but we certainly have the motivation to record our adventures.

This week in the Smoky Mountains we bit the bullet, we have two videos up so far and hope to put out a couple more before the end of the week and then start releasing videos from time to time as we continue our Camino training through the Spring. Here’s our first video.

Why do we feel the need to start a YouTube channel in the first place? We want an interactive visual way of sharing our travels with our families and friends as we travel across the country and around the globe! Our long term goal is to be full-time adventurer’s once we have retired from our teaching jobs and we know that YouTube is one method of eventually making some income.

One of the reasons we were hesitant to start the channel was the intimidation I mentioned above that we felt when watching so many other channels. Their production value is so slick and polished, we just are not sure we could compete. We’ve decided to throw caution to the wind and go for it! Since we will be walking across Spain and Portugal over the summer, we will not be able to carry much gear in our packs. Because of this, our videos will be pretty low tech for the time being. Before I go any further, the links below will take you to Amazon through our affiliate page, meaning that we get a VERY small commission if you buy. Here is what we’ve decided to take along:

iPhone 7

The iPhone 7 has a great camera and the video quality is pretty good too, I might be upgrading my phone before we go, but that’s only if I can convince Michelle that we can work it into the budget, but she won’t be upgrading her phone. Not only will I be shooting on my iPhone, but also all of the editing will be happening here using iMovie.

Michelle and I both do video and photos for the blogs and now, videos.

Monopod

Again, because we can’t carry items unless they fulfill several needs I really want a monopod that would double as my hiking pole. After testing out several monopods that felt either too flimsy or too heavy, I’ve finally settled on the Go2Gether trekking pole with integrated camera mount. The pole feels sturdy and the locks have kept it from collapsing with moderate pressure. It comes with snow and mud baskets and several different tips. The handle is a little small for my hands and I’m going to be adding some bike handlebar tape to give them some extra padding. I bought two because I want my poles to match.

Using the monopod and gimbal takes some practice.


Gimbal

The go-to company for smartphone gimbals seems to be DJI and after checking out several, I am really happy with my Osmo Mobile 2. I’ve come across a couple of problems so far. The Bluetooth connection between the gimbal and phone really eats up my phone battery. So far the solution has been to power off the gimbal whenever I’m not shooting video and that is helping. Problem number two is not being able to readily connect a mic at the same time as the gimbal because of the port placement on the phone. I’ve found an adapter but it is not a graceful solution that I am pleased with.

Wide Angle Lens

In order to get some special shots, I wanted to play with adding some lens onto the phone too. Some Genius at the Apple Store recommended the Olloclip Core Lens and Clip. The core pack comes with a super-wide angle and a dual fisheye/macro lens. Also, the clip that holds the lens can attach to your pack with a carabiner and converts into a mini phone stand. You can purchase additional lenses that just clip on including telephoto and ultra-wide.

Photo taken with the regular iPhone 7 camera, no zoom
Same photo with the Olloclip Super Wide Angle Lens
Using the Olloclip Fisheye lens yields some interesting results
Finally with the Marco lens, great detail becomes visible

Microphone

I was concerned about wind noise, especially when hiking near roads or in windy situations and wanted to add a microphone. Rode makes good quality mics at an affordable price point so I picked up a Rode VideoMicro Mic that comes with a shock mount and windshield. I had to add a ring clamp to attach it to a hiking pole and an adapter to plug it into the phone (it has a 1/8 inch plug, not lightning). I’m still working battery issues and haven’t used both the gimbal and the mic at the same time yet.

So there it is, our setup to get started on YouTube. Of course, I know that there will be more gear to come (anyone want to buy me a DJI Spark Drone?) and that we will probably have to make some adjustments as we travel along the Camino. Check out our first two videos and give us some feedback! Also, make sure that you click on the subscribe button and click the bell to get notifications every time we post new content.

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles