Tuscany Archives - Cruisin with the Colemans

VF Day 34-36: Change, Pilgrims, & Energy

Posted on July 10, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

It is amazing what a change will do for the soul. We experience changes all the time from a new week, beautiful sunset, shift in the weather, a refurbished home, a new pet, or even new neighbors. Whatever the change, it’s all around us, happening even when we don’t notice it.

Change is good for the soul and I believe we all need bigger changes from time to time. Because Brian and I live in the Midwest, we experience change all the time in the seasons and as teachers we experience change at the start of each new semester. Maybe that makes us more aware of change or maybe that makes us need change more? Maybe it helps us be balanced? I don’t know and it doesn’t really matter. What I do know is how much I love change.

After a month of walking, I was in need of change. I was seriously in need of it. I am not alone in that need for change, other pilgrims have said they are looking for it too. Change doesn’t have to be some big metaphor for life, sometimes a change in scenery will do just fine. Other times, seeing and chatting with other pilgrims is enough change.

This is our longest pilgrimage, specifically walking on one trail. We’ve walked/biked other trails but there were always more types of change and more pilgrims. This trail has moments where change is obvious like going from Switzerland to Italy, from the Po Valley to the Apennine Mountains, and now we’re in Tuscany.

At this point, I needed more than just a scenery change. I know, it’s Tuscany, what more could I possibly need!? I can’t explain. But of course, just like it always happens on pilgrimage, you get what you need which was confirmation enough for me.

Just holding up the tower like every other tourist

Leaving the trail for 24 hours to go to Pisa was a risk. Would we be distracted by tourist life? Would we be able to just hop back on the trail? Would the change be what I actually needed? Would I just be done.

It was the perfect amount of change. Pisa is a small tourist town. I couldn’t imagine going to Rome and then coming back to try to appreciate Pisa the way we did. I’m surprisingly more excited about Rome and the rest of our walk because of going to Pisa. Maybe it was imagining what I’ll buy when we are tourists, maybe it’s wandering around without my backpack, or maybe it was just the distraction I needed.

Because we didn’t plan a day to Pisa, we sacrificed the walk from Altopascio to San Miniato. We got back on the trail shortly after San Miniato to walk to Gambassi Terme. That all goes back to my last blog about owning the exceptions. I have zero regrets.

It’s moments like this that add to the memories

When we got to Gambassi Terme we checked into the Ostello Sigerico. There were 10 other pilgrims in the ostello (aka – albergue or hostel)! That’s the most pilgrims we’ve been around at one time the entire trip! Change is so very good!!

We left for San Gimignano this morning and it was an epic day! Not only was it a shorter day but there were pilgrims o’ plenty on the trail. We took a million photos. The weather was outstanding. We smelled the pine, cypress, and olive trees all day. We even went a bit crazy and stopped at a winery at 10 a.m. with 7km still to go on our walk! The wine was so good we had a case shipped home!

We only have 14 days left to walk to Rome. I know we’ll continue to see more pilgrims. The scenery will continue to shift. We have a lot of days ahead we’re looking forward to. I know our energy will dip some but I anticipate the emotions I will feel is sadness because it’s coming to an end along with great anticipation to see Rome!

I can’t believe it’s all happening! Change is good! ❤️

Subscribe to our Travel/City Guide playlist on YouTube so you will be notified when the Pisa video is out, just click here.

Click here to enjoy our YouTube video of our time from Lucca to Gambassi Terme.

Walking stats from Altopascio to San Miniato. 0 on the Via Francigena but we walked 10 km in Pisa. 🙌🏼

Walking stats from San Miniato to Gambassi Termi 10 km

Lodging at Ostello Sigerico €40 plus dinner at €14 a person

Walking stats from Gambassi Termi to San Gimignano 15 km

Lodging at A La Casa Dei Potenti – €75

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

VF 27-30: Dolce Far Niente

Posted on July 2, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

I am a water girl with a fire sign (Leo). I’m feisty like fire but love to be cooled off by the water. I love being by the water, despite how bored I get after one day of doing nothing at the beach.

I’ll take water in any form. On this pilgrimage every shower consists of me standing under the shower head imagining myself diving into a pool. That’s probably because I am just so dang hot every single day. Regardless, that’s my shower day dream and it gets me through the hot days. Haha!

I can’t talk much about our time walking from Cella to Aulla. It was hard, it was hot, and it was an incredible amount of climbing. I wasn’t as mentally prepared for it as I was the Grand St. Bernard Pass. I have a lot of respect for the mountains and if I lived by them they would be much more manageable. But I am from the flat lands of the Midwest. Here’s a video just to illustrate how tough it was for us.

The balance of water and mountains at its best

I definitely could live by the water with mountains behind me. I respect the balance of the two. I need to climb the mountains and feel like I am looking down on everything (the Leo sign again). I also need to sit by the water and listen to the sounds as I go about my day. I think that’s why, despite how tough the mountains have been, I love this area. The Apennine Mountains are around us and the Ligurian Sea is in front of us as we leave Sarzana and spend a rest day in Marina di Massa.

Marina di Massa looking up at the marble quarry where Michelangelo got marble for his statues

If I lived here, I would hike the mountains but not relentlessly every day for 20-30+ km, in the heat, with a 20 pound pack on my back. Sometimes you need a bit of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) to appreciate the hard work of the climb.

Marina di Massa is off of the Via Francigena path but it’s an easy detour. Make sure you are following our YouTube channel so you can see how easy this detour is for walkers.

It can be a pricey detour because Marina di Massa is a tourist town. However, we booked our room in February and secured a moderately ok little apartment for just under €100 a night. For this area, that is super reasonable. It’s also only 4 blocks from the sea.

To make this rest day complete, we will allow ourselves to get completely bored for a day. Haha! We rented an umbrella and beach chairs for only €36. I will be there as soon as they open in the morning. Let the dolce far niente commence.

This pilgrimage has been incredibly rewarding thus far. I can’t believe we have complete 30 of our 50 planned walking days. I have overcome some mental hurdles from past pilgrimages. My body has risen to the challenge of the daily grind – walk, hand wash clothes, find food, rehydrate, reflect on the day, go to bed early, get up early to beat the heat, and repeat. Every day is gets a bit easier.

However, our days of rest are critical to sustaining these final 20 days of walking. The heat of the summer is extremely challenging for everyone. I’m not trying to push myself beyond what I can do, I am just trying to get better with time. I am only in competition with myself. Thankfully, I do not have to prove anything to anyone. The reward: I am pleasantly surprised with how much our walking pace and walking stamina have improved. I can’t wait to see how we improve over the next 20 days.

My inner mermaid is calling to get out of this apartment and go walk the beach. Please continue to pray for our safe passage over the next 20 days. We have a lot to learn still. We have the challenging Tuscan hills in front of us with relentless ups and downs all day long.

We will continue to work on what our balanced life will look like when we get home. Balance is our greatest challenge. Let me know what your struggle is and I will add you to those I pray for on my walk.

Caio for now!

Here’s the YouTube video from Berseto to Aulla.

Here’s the YouTube video from Aulla to Sarzana. Watch out, it’s our Gong Show edition. 🤪

Walking stats from Fronovo di Taro to Berseto- 18.24 km, took a taxi for 13.3 km

Lodging at La casa di Marty B&B – €66

Walking stats from Berseto to Pontremoli – 14.46 km, took a taxi for 13.8 km

Lodging at Ospitale San Lorenzo Martire – €40

Walking stats from Pontremoli to Aulla – sadly just 2.5 km to the train station. I had to work and we needed a place with good wi-fi so it was 29.6 km on the train.

Lodging at Demi Hotel – €100

Walking stats from Aulla to Sarzana – 18.76

Lodging at Casa Giangarè – €98

Walking stats from Sarzana to Massa di Marina – 19.55 km

Lodging at Rosa Tea Residence for two nights – €198

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

VF Day 25-26: Two Bees, a Swarm of Flies, and Relentless Gnats

Posted on June 28, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

I’m always excited for new scenery, entering the Apennine Mountains was no exception after the long, flat days of the Po Valley. I’m like a kid who is excited but forgets every time how much work the mountains can be to hike.

I can’t talk more about a balanced life yet (see last blog post). Right now, I feel like an amateur hiker again. I’m tired and I need a nap after the constant up and down of the day. The views have been good but the mileage between villages is long and the mileage of the stages is even longer. I’m trying to embrace the longer days and the climbs, it’s what I wanted, but it doesn’t mean I enjoy every moment of every day.

Yesterday we hiked on loose gravel with inclines both up and down at over a 50% grade at times. It was steep, wait until you see the YouTube video about it (it will be linked at the bottom when it’s out). We were having fun with it, laughing and joking a lot, until the third big hill and then the trail got silent. We were both exhausted, the elevation map didn’t look nearly as tough as the actual trail, and we were each having our own silent pissy fits.

Then came the bees. They would not leave me alone, I was swinging my polls around like a mad woman. Next came the flies, crap, they were intense. I hated the entire world. And of course, because they haven’t left me alone in over in a week, there were the relentless knats. Gnats that looked like tornado tunnels passing by and through me. Why, oh why, did it have to be all three?

I couldn’t stop walking for fear they would land on me. It wasn’t enjoyable to stop and look around. I kept walking. I kept trying to outpace these treacherous beasts. I would have paid a lot of money for my hiking pole to turn into a fly swatter!

Deconstruction is the ultimate test of a true warrior!

Despite all of that, it was those stupid, relentless, swarms of insects that got me through a tough day. I’m not going to thank them, let’s not go that far. Brian didn’t have to pull out the bee sting kit so there’s that good news.

We accomplished another mountain pass, another goal, and for that I am thankful. We also surpassed our halfway mark of walking 50 total days on this trip. Tomorrow: We hike again, we climb again. That’s just the pilgrimage we’re on. Maybe in the end I will feel like the warrior I know I am deep inside.

Here’s the link to the YouTube video to Cella. Here’s the link to the video to Fronovo di Taro.

Walking stats from Fidenza to Cella – 17.1 km

Lodging – Fraternità Francescana di Betania – donation based, included lunch, dinner, and breakfast the next morning

Walking stats from Cella to Fronovo di Taro – 18.8 km

Lodging – La Vecchia Quercia Bed and Breakfast – €80