Italy Archives - Cruisin with the Colemans

Greccio to Rome, Italy: 2026 Group Travel Experience Details

Posted on August 10, 2025 by CruisinColemans

This trip is almost sold out. If it sold out before you read this blog post, click here to join the waitlist.

If you have always wanted to wander through the region of Lazio, see the Eternal City, and explore the Roman Ruins, this is the trip for you! Brian and I have walked through Italy and can tell you it’s so magical. First, you can’t beat the food! We love it so much that we’re including a gnocchi, pasta-making, and cannoli cooking class! Second, the region of Lazio. This region is known for its rolling hills, volcanic lakes, and gorgeous plains.

The trip itself is the perfect blend of what we are best known for – walking and getting to know the area and food where we travel. You will have eight walking days, two days to explore Rome, and an optional third day to explore Rome further.

The character of the villages makes me smile every day on pilgrimage

June 18, 2026, Day 1: Fly into Rome and Travel to Greccio
We will arrange your travel from Rome (the city you should fly into) to Greccio, the town that will be our home base for a couple of days. Don’t worry, when you fly into Rome, you won’t see anything that “gives the city away,” and your walk into the city will still be magical. We will spend the evening in Greccio getting to know each other and preparing for the adventure ahead.

June 19, 2026, Day 2: Warm-Up Walk in Greccio to the Sanctuary
With everyone a bit jet-lagged, we will take it easy on our first full day together. We will walk to the sanctuary that is home to the first live nativity. This is where we will officially begin our walk and have our tau ceremony (similar to a shell ceremony). Everyone will receive their pilgrim credential and tau necklace on this day. The Greek letter tau (T) is the sign of Saint Francis and has become the symbol of this pilgrimage route. During our time in Rieti, you may decide to enjoy a tour of the underground salt road. On this day, we will meet with a local expert who will discuss what to expect on the journey to Rome.
Mileage: 4.4 kilometers

June 20, 2026, Day 3: Greccio to Rieti
Surrounded by forested slopes and spiritual quiet, you descend toward the Velino River Valley, eventually arriving in Rieti. Known as the “navel of Italy,” this small city is rich with Franciscan history, ancient Roman ruins, and Renaissance architecture. Rieti has been known as the geographic center of Italy since ancient Roman times. It’s the perfect place to reflect on the journey ahead.
Mileage: 21.6 kilometers

June 21, 2026, Day 4: Rieti to Poggio San Lorenzo
Leaving the city, you follow quiet country roads and trails into the Sabine hills. Olive groves and vineyards will have you drooling to taste their olive oil and wine. The route to Poggio San Lorenzo winds through rolling terrain with nonstop views. Today we will cross a 1600-year-old Roman bridge! This tiny village, once a Roman outpost, still holds remnants of its ancient past. The evening here is tranquil, ideal for enjoying simple local fare and stargazing.
Mileage: 21.4 kilometers

June 22, 2026, Day 5: Poggio San Lorenzo to Ponticelli
You walk through open countryside and historic farmland toward Ponticelli Sabino, a hamlet nestled among fields and hills. Here you’ll encounter authentic rural life and a slower pace. The route will include quiet paths paralleling the ancient Via Salaria, a Roman road that once connected Rome to the Adriatic Sea.
Mileage: 20.2 kilometers

June 23, 2026, Day 6: Ponticelli to Montelibretti
Today’s walk brings a mix of wooded areas and open views of the approaching Tiber Valley. As you reach Montelibretti, you’ll notice a shift from remote villages to more connected towns. Perched on a hilltop, Montelibretti offers a picturesque historic center with sweeping views.
Mileage: 12 kilometers

June 24, 2026, Day 7: Montelibretti to Monterotondo
Now entering the greater area of Rome, your path passes through olive groves and suburban farms as you make your way to Monterotondo. This bustling hill town has a lively historic center and a strong connection to Rome’s past, with Baroque palaces and winding lanes. The hope is that by now you have enjoyed a lot of olive oil from these beautiful groves! You’ll sense the capital city drawing near, yet the small-town warmth remains relevant.
Mileage: 23.7 kilometers

June 25, 2026, Day 8: Monterotondo to Monte Sacro
Today, you cross into Rome’s urban landscape, arriving in the neighborhood of Monte Sacro, named for the hill where plebeians once staged political revolts in Roman times. Despite being within the capital’s limits, this area retains pockets of greenery and historical interest. You’ll rest here before the final stretch into the heart of the Eternal City.
Mileage: 18.7 kilometers

June 26, 2026, Day 9: Rome – Monte Sacro to the Eternal City
Your pilgrimage concludes in Rome, a city that seamlessly blends ancient wonder with modern vibrancy. You’ll walk the cobbled streets to marvel at landmarks as we make our way to the Eternal City. Who knows, maybe we will see the Pope (not guaranteed!).
Mileage: 15.2 kilometers

June 27-28, 2026, Days 10-11: Two Days Exploring Rome
There is so much to explore in Rome! Our first day will explore the sacred side of the city, including time to explore the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. You will have the option to climb the dome (for an additional $100), and we will arrange the tickets for you. Our second day will focus on Italian cuisine, with a small group class dedicated to learning how to make pizza and pasta, and a special dinner at a hidden gem of the city. During both days, with your hop-on/hop-off bus pass, you can visit quieter spiritual sites like San Francesco a Ripa or the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano. Whether you’re exploring bustling piazzas or finding solace in quiet chapels, Rome is a fitting culmination to your journey.

June 29, 2026, Day 12: Rome – Supplemental Day ($300 additional)
You won’t be able to see all of Rome in just two days. On this supplement day, we will provide your breakfast, dinner, and final night’s lodging while exploring ancient Rome. We will tour the Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum, including a tour of the dungeons and floor of the arena, along with several piazzas. We will leave a coin in Trevi Fountain to ensure we all make it back to Rome! Following an evening bus tour, we will enjoy a final dinner at one of our favorite local restaurants, specializing in a wide variety of homemade pastas. If we are lucky, we’ll get to watch the chef make the next day’s pasta! Note: While we are in Rome, our lodging is close to the Trevi Fountain. Everywhere in the City Center of Rome, lodging is expensive. The supplemental cost covers our expenses for your lodging, breakfast, dinner, and tickets.

What’s Included in the Trip:
– Transportation to the start of our walk and back to the airport at the end of our trip.
– Lodging in private rooms of two people per room with private bathrooms (you may share bathrooms with other members of our group). Check-in is typically about 3 p.m. You can expect a range of lodging experiences from us. We will place you in accommodations close to the action so you won’t spend your time traveling or walking into the city. We cannot ever guarantee air conditioning, and even when it’s included, we cannot ensure its quality. It’s Europe where air conditioning is not the standard.
– All breakfasts, which are pretty simple in Europe, typically include a pastry, coffee, and sometimes juice.
– All dinners with multiple courses. Water and wine are included with dinner; cocktails are on your own. A typical European dinner begins at 8 p.m. and lasts about 2 hours. We encourage you to eat a late lunch, enjoy a restful riposo, and have an afternoon snack.
– Daily luggage transfer. Luggage is limited to 30 pounds and a bag/suitcase no larger than 25″ tall. You will receive a document with a suggested packing list and will be encouraged to hand-wash your laundry throughout the trip. Washing machines are rarely available.
– Taxi transfer on any day you are struggling and need to move ahead to walk fewer kilometers. Plans for the taxi are made by 8 p.m. the night before.
– A local expert to talk about the region and the significance of the Way of St. Francis.
– Your tau necklace (the symbol of this pilgrimage) and your credential.
– Your testimonium from Vatican City at the end of your pilgrimage.
– Participation in a pizza and pasta-making class in Rome.
– Tour the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel.
– Enjoy a hop-on/hop-off bus pass to explore the city.
– A special gift from us.
– Three online sessions with your group, help with securing your airfare, and on-demand phone or video calls with us.
– We will be filming both video and photos throughout the trip so loved ones can follow you on our social media channels. You will receive a Google Drive link after the trip with all the pictures and videos we took.

What’s Not Included in the Trip:
– Airfare
– Lunch and snacks throughout the day
– Cocktails
– Tickets for tours in Rome that are not included in the trip

Cost of the Trip:
– $3800 per person in a double occupancy room with a $200 discount if you sign up before November 15, 2025
– After the early bird discount, you can get a $100 discount for referring a friend (that is $100 off for you and $100 off for your friend).
– Payment plans will be arranged and agreed upon, with the final payment due by April 1, 2026
– This trip is priced for ten participants. If we sell out with twelve people, everyone will receive $200 off their final payment. We will not take more than twelve people on this trip.

To Secure Your Spot:
If you are interested in this trip, the first step is to please complete our group travel interest form. Once we have ensured you are a good fit for our group travel experiences, a $500 non-refundable deposit is required.

Would you like to see the other trip we are offering in 2026? Please read about our July trip, where we are walking in Spain from Samos to Santiago by clicking here.

Updated: 12/16/25

VF Day 39-43: The Lows of Pilgrimage

Posted on July 18, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

I didn’t know my body could be this tired. Even though I see new muscles every day, I am tired. Besides how exhausted I feel, what has surprised me the most on this pilgrimage is a roller coaster of emotions. Put your seat belt on because I am going to talk about the tough times.

I expected it to be tough. I expected it to challenge me. I didn’t expect to be so worn out at this stage of the pilgrimage. Being that we are going into the final week, I expected to be more energized.

Every photo will include us squinting in the sun

I think I was hoping that by this point there would be more pilgrims to chat it up with every evening. I was hoping for more little villages throughout the day. I was hoping to feel something more that would energize me for the home stretch.

The heat is tough on us both. It makes every pilgrim push a little harder to be done walking before noon. Then we deal with accommodations that won’t let us check in until 2:00 or 3:00 p.m. So we wait, in the heat, before we can find relief. If you are lucky enough to find a room with air conditioning, you better pray it works well. Many places we have paid extra to stay at because we wanted the air conditioning which unfortunately has either not worked at all or they set limits to how cool it can be. Seriously, limits on air conditioning, that’s a new one to us.

The lack of new pilgrims has been disappointing. We hoped to have made connections with many others by now. We had hoped for a nice “pilgrim family” but there just haven’t been that many pilgrims. Of course, we expected it could happen because of our pace and our rest days, but it’s still tough.

Then there is the walk. The days are full of walking in the full sun. This is the best farmer’s tan we have ever had! Haha! The heat is extremely intense. We are lucky if there is one village along the way and even more lucky if there is a bar/cafe open. We had heard many places are closed on either Sunday or Monday so we always plan our day before we leave the village we are in. However, what we’ve experienced is that a place could be closed any day of the week.

On our walk from Radicofani to Acquapendente there was one village, Centeno, where we could stop for food. However, it was Saturday and the only place in town was closed on Saturday’s. I really struggle with the lack of pilgrim stops along the way.

Working by the pool since the hotel has no power

We have been looking forward to our final rest day in Bolsena. We booked a “nice” hotel with a pool, wi-fi, and air conditioning. You’ll never believe what has happened since we arrived. The first room they put us in, a ceiling tile fell because water was leaking from the air conditioning unit. Fortunately we had just finished washing our clothes and showering. They moved us to a new room. Overnight the power went out which meant no air conditioning, no phones being charged, no wifi, and a limited breakfast. They teased us with eggs and bacon for breakfast but not without power.

I guess this summer is about learning to pivot because it seems to be the theme, see my earlier blog. We’ve had to adjust our expectations, learn to be ok with less than we wanted, and pivot when things don’t go as planned. I’m not saying it’s easy but I guess it’s something we needed to learn.

Now we enter the home stretch. My main motivation going forward is that we finish what we start. It’s the way we raised our children and something we feel is important. The tough moments help us grow. They nourish our soul and stretch our adventurous spirit.

We will walk into Vatican City in 7 days. I don’t know what our attitude will be like, except that we will be thrilled with what we have accomplished. My prayer is the next 7 days have services along the way, the heat isn’t quite so intense, and we meet a few pilgrims to connect with along the way. But if that doesn’t happen, we will continue to pivot because ultimately, we will finish what we started. This pilgrimage is full of memories already, I am sure we laugh about that summer we spent walking into the sun.

Walking stats from Sienna to Ponte d’Arbia – 25.21 km

Lodging at the Centro Cultural Center – donation

Walking stats from Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia – 11.39 km, with a bus for 14.8 km

Lodging at Ai Portali B&B – €100

Walking stats from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani – 16.82 km, with a bus for 16.81 km

Lodging at Casa del Ciliegio – €66

Walking stats from Radicofani to Acquapendente – 19.63 km, with a taxi for 3.5 km

Lodging at IL Borgo Ristorante Pizzeria Camere – €60

Walking stats from Acquapendente to Bolsena – 18.8 km (we did some road walking to shorten the day)

Two nights of lodging at Hotel Holiday Sul Lul Lago – €296 (too much, I know! But it had a pool! 🙌🏼)

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

VF Day 37-38: The Routine, Rest Days, & Tourists

Posted on July 12, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

The routine is natural to us, it’s both easy and uncomplicated. We wake up between 5:30-6 a.m. and are walking just as soon as we get out the door. Ideally there’s a bar/caffé between 5-8 km into the walk for a breakfast stop. If I have to wait until 10km, I’m cranky and if there’s no food along the way I’m…let’s not talk about it. We can usually find something. However, sometimes we can only find food once a day. This trail is not like the Camino de Santiago where there’s food about every 5-7 km, sometimes the food on this trail is quite scarce.

Marcello and his pilgrim rest stop in La Villa

Yesterday, while walking to Siena there was only one stop for food for our 20 km walk. It was a roadside stand with a great guy, Marcello, who created this food stand in front of his house. Marcello and his cake and cappuccino were a huge blessing. He only accepts donations.

Once we finish the walk, usually between noon – 2 p.m., the routine continues. This part reminds me of RVing when we arrive at a new campground. Everyone needs to leave us alone while we back up the rig and get it set up. Similarly, when we arrive at our accommodation for the night, we can’t get distracted by stores, wine, food, or a festival which was the case in Monteriggioni.

Looking back at the walled city of Monteriggioni

When we check into a new place, we show our passports, pay for the night so we don’t have to worry about it in the morning, learn how to use the keys, and understand what’s expected while we’re there. Once that’s done the next step is critical unless we’re hungry or there’s a festival like in Monteriggioni. In case you’re not sure yet, the festival really tried to distract us and throw off our routine. Wait until that YouTube video is out, wow!

Once we’re settled into our room it’s time to hand wash today’s clothes so they have plenty of time to dry and grab a shower before anyone else has to smell us. At that point we are free to wander around the town, go to the church, peek in the shops (though nothing can be purchased unless they can ship it home), and of course, find more food.

The goal is to be in bed by 9 p.m. so we can do it all again, unless there’s a festival outside your window. I’m all for a good distraction, you know that, but right now I’m in a pilgrim zone as we attempt to finish the last two weeks strong. The festival in Monteriggioni was a nice distraction in the walled village with only two streets but the main stage was right outside of our unair-conditioned room and it went on until well after midnight. That is tough on a pilgrim.

Once we got to Siena we were both tired from the late night but the distractions were everywhere and so were the tourists. Just getting to our accommodation meant dancing around tourists who randomly stop in the middle of the street for a photo of anything. I want the photos too but not with my backpack on. And if you bump into me, I will leave sweat in your clothes.

I will admit, tourists are exhausting. I’m thankful I don’t live in a tourist town. Deciding to take a rest day in a tourist town isn’t for every pilgrim. I get it. There’s so much to do but what we need to do is recuperate and rest our feet.

Our rest day regimen includes: Sleep in, wander around until lunch, take a nap, work some/watch Netflix, grab dinner, and get to bed at a reasonable time. However, in a tourist town that means we can pick only a few things to see or we will wear ourselves out!

Inside the basilica – you’ll have to wait until the video comes out for all of the footage!

Siena is no exception but we managed it successfully! The city guide brochure is 27 pages long and has the city broken up into 3 areas. 😳 We left our room about 9:15 a.m. and did our best wandering until fresh pizza was calling our name. After lunch we took a 3 hour nap. Oh my gosh, that was the best part of my day! Haha!

Of course, since we’re accustomed to the late dinner, we had our la passa giata (evening stroll) this evening around the Piazza del Campo and followed our noses to a good meal. Our wallets paid the price for the lack of planning but it was worth it for the vibe. We have a 25 km walk tomorrow and it’s going to be 92°f/33°c tomorrow so no sleeping in for us!

This has been our routine for 45 days. Yes, 45 days! (Note: We’ve been on pilgrimage for 45 days but the title reflects our walking day count to follow our YouTube videos.) It feels natural to us to the point where it will be strange when we’re not walking. But that thought brings me to tears and it’s a blog for another day. For now I will focus on the pleasure of our final 12 days of walking. Rome will be here too soon.

Ciao! Ciao!

Walking stats from San Gimignano to Monteriggioni included 12 km of walking and 15 km by taxi

Lodging at Castello Casa per ferie Maria Assunta with a private room – €74

Walking stats from Monteriggioni to Sienna – 20.74 km

Lodging for 2 nights in a tourist town at La Terrazza Sul Campo-Rooming house – €226

VF Day 31-33: A Pilgrimage of Exceptions

Posted on July 5, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

Besides the incessant heat, our greatest struggle is decided if we should rest on a rest day or seeing what’s all around us in whatever city/village we are in.

We have to decide, is it important to have a rest day in a small village with nothing to see or stay in a medium village with a bit of life but not too much so you don’t wear yourself? Or do you just rest when the body says it’s time? Everyone is different. I think ultimately the body will tell you what you can and cannot do.

Our dream rest day is a medium sized village, with a lively (but not too lively) piazza near us, a few interesting things to wander and see, but not too much or we won’t rest.

There is one more critical piece to a perfect rest day – the accommodation. We have had all types on this trek, from the absolute most uncomfortable, stinky, hot, and nowhere to work accommodations to the magical little place we have here in Lucca. The room is small but it has all of the essentials, air conditioning, a decent bed, nice size shower, and a gorgeous courtyard.

It was like our bodies said, “enough” and they called a time out. We just took a rest day in Marina di Massa. However, we were on the beach in the sun all day like tourists and our accommodation was the worst we have had the entire trip.

Here in Lucca, we did what we do best when our bodies feel they way they did coming in. We wandered around the piazzas near us and visited a couple of churches, but that’s all. Last night we didn’t even go back out for dinner. This was not how we saw our time in Lucca but alas it’s what we needed.

A rest day is completely different from being a tourist. When you are a tourist, you walk a lot of kilometers to see as much as you can of a town before you leave. We will have plenty of time for tourism after we make it to Rome.

Have you ever come home from a tourist vacation only to feel utterly exhausted? This is the feeling we try to avoid because our walking days are exhausting enough.

Then there are exceptions, like a beach, because it sounds utterly wonderful and relaxing. I have no regrets about that day, it was magical despite the accommodation and feeling exhausted the next day.

Life is full of exceptions and we need to embrace them. It’s a big part of why we are not purist trail hikers. We tried that and it wasn’t as much fun. We are on a long adventure and the days of waking lots of kilometers is not always fun. It’s hot on the trail in the summer. The trail is extremely tough at times and the days are long. We are making memories of all types, including a few we are creating when we make exceptions.

For the first time while on a pilgrimage we fully own our choices and will not be bound by what others think we should or should not do, where we should go or not go. They are our memories to create and it feels outstanding.

We will have to come back to be tourists in Lucca someday, along with other villages we have made note of for the future.

The exceptions will continue again the day after tomorrow when we leave the trail for a day and a half to visit Pisa. The reviews of Pisa are mixed but there’s that famous leaning tower thing, you know, and it has to be seen. Haha! If we don’t go, it’s a town we may not come back to see and the town everyone will ask if we visited. Alas, we’re going to be tourists for a day.

It does mean losing a day on the Via Francigena but we are looking forward to the distraction. After Pisa, it will be time to buckle down and finish the last few weeks of this trail. Rome is calling and we are excited to tour it!

If you take anything from this blog, please remember your life is yours to live. Be happy with your path, your choices, and your exceptions.

Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from our walk from Sarzana to Camaiore.

Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from Camaiore to Lucca!

Walking stats from Massa di Marina to Camaiore – 11.5 km with a bus for 14 km

Lodging at Ostello del Pellegrino – €40

Walking stats from Camaiore to Lucca – 16 km with a bus for 9 km

Lodging at il Cortile di Elisa for two nights – €144

VF 27-30: Dolce Far Niente

Posted on July 2, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

I am a water girl with a fire sign (Leo). I’m feisty like fire but love to be cooled off by the water. I love being by the water, despite how bored I get after one day of doing nothing at the beach.

I’ll take water in any form. On this pilgrimage every shower consists of me standing under the shower head imagining myself diving into a pool. That’s probably because I am just so dang hot every single day. Regardless, that’s my shower day dream and it gets me through the hot days. Haha!

I can’t talk much about our time walking from Cella to Aulla. It was hard, it was hot, and it was an incredible amount of climbing. I wasn’t as mentally prepared for it as I was the Grand St. Bernard Pass. I have a lot of respect for the mountains and if I lived by them they would be much more manageable. But I am from the flat lands of the Midwest. Here’s a video just to illustrate how tough it was for us.

The balance of water and mountains at its best

I definitely could live by the water with mountains behind me. I respect the balance of the two. I need to climb the mountains and feel like I am looking down on everything (the Leo sign again). I also need to sit by the water and listen to the sounds as I go about my day. I think that’s why, despite how tough the mountains have been, I love this area. The Apennine Mountains are around us and the Ligurian Sea is in front of us as we leave Sarzana and spend a rest day in Marina di Massa.

Marina di Massa looking up at the marble quarry where Michelangelo got marble for his statues

If I lived here, I would hike the mountains but not relentlessly every day for 20-30+ km, in the heat, with a 20 pound pack on my back. Sometimes you need a bit of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) to appreciate the hard work of the climb.

Marina di Massa is off of the Via Francigena path but it’s an easy detour. Make sure you are following our YouTube channel so you can see how easy this detour is for walkers.

It can be a pricey detour because Marina di Massa is a tourist town. However, we booked our room in February and secured a moderately ok little apartment for just under €100 a night. For this area, that is super reasonable. It’s also only 4 blocks from the sea.

To make this rest day complete, we will allow ourselves to get completely bored for a day. Haha! We rented an umbrella and beach chairs for only €36. I will be there as soon as they open in the morning. Let the dolce far niente commence.

This pilgrimage has been incredibly rewarding thus far. I can’t believe we have complete 30 of our 50 planned walking days. I have overcome some mental hurdles from past pilgrimages. My body has risen to the challenge of the daily grind – walk, hand wash clothes, find food, rehydrate, reflect on the day, go to bed early, get up early to beat the heat, and repeat. Every day is gets a bit easier.

However, our days of rest are critical to sustaining these final 20 days of walking. The heat of the summer is extremely challenging for everyone. I’m not trying to push myself beyond what I can do, I am just trying to get better with time. I am only in competition with myself. Thankfully, I do not have to prove anything to anyone. The reward: I am pleasantly surprised with how much our walking pace and walking stamina have improved. I can’t wait to see how we improve over the next 20 days.

My inner mermaid is calling to get out of this apartment and go walk the beach. Please continue to pray for our safe passage over the next 20 days. We have a lot to learn still. We have the challenging Tuscan hills in front of us with relentless ups and downs all day long.

We will continue to work on what our balanced life will look like when we get home. Balance is our greatest challenge. Let me know what your struggle is and I will add you to those I pray for on my walk.

Caio for now!

Here’s the YouTube video from Berseto to Aulla.

Here’s the YouTube video from Aulla to Sarzana. Watch out, it’s our Gong Show edition. 🤪

Walking stats from Fronovo di Taro to Berseto- 18.24 km, took a taxi for 13.3 km

Lodging at La casa di Marty B&B – €66

Walking stats from Berseto to Pontremoli – 14.46 km, took a taxi for 13.8 km

Lodging at Ospitale San Lorenzo Martire – €40

Walking stats from Pontremoli to Aulla – sadly just 2.5 km to the train station. I had to work and we needed a place with good wi-fi so it was 29.6 km on the train.

Lodging at Demi Hotel – €100

Walking stats from Aulla to Sarzana – 18.76

Lodging at Casa Giangarè – €98

Walking stats from Sarzana to Massa di Marina – 19.55 km

Lodging at Rosa Tea Residence for two nights – €198

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

VF Day 25-26: Two Bees, a Swarm of Flies, and Relentless Gnats

Posted on June 28, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

I’m always excited for new scenery, entering the Apennine Mountains was no exception after the long, flat days of the Po Valley. I’m like a kid who is excited but forgets every time how much work the mountains can be to hike.

I can’t talk more about a balanced life yet (see last blog post). Right now, I feel like an amateur hiker again. I’m tired and I need a nap after the constant up and down of the day. The views have been good but the mileage between villages is long and the mileage of the stages is even longer. I’m trying to embrace the longer days and the climbs, it’s what I wanted, but it doesn’t mean I enjoy every moment of every day.

Yesterday we hiked on loose gravel with inclines both up and down at over a 50% grade at times. It was steep, wait until you see the YouTube video about it (it will be linked at the bottom when it’s out). We were having fun with it, laughing and joking a lot, until the third big hill and then the trail got silent. We were both exhausted, the elevation map didn’t look nearly as tough as the actual trail, and we were each having our own silent pissy fits.

Then came the bees. They would not leave me alone, I was swinging my polls around like a mad woman. Next came the flies, crap, they were intense. I hated the entire world. And of course, because they haven’t left me alone in over in a week, there were the relentless knats. Gnats that looked like tornado tunnels passing by and through me. Why, oh why, did it have to be all three?

I couldn’t stop walking for fear they would land on me. It wasn’t enjoyable to stop and look around. I kept walking. I kept trying to outpace these treacherous beasts. I would have paid a lot of money for my hiking pole to turn into a fly swatter!

Deconstruction is the ultimate test of a true warrior!

Despite all of that, it was those stupid, relentless, swarms of insects that got me through a tough day. I’m not going to thank them, let’s not go that far. Brian didn’t have to pull out the bee sting kit so there’s that good news.

We accomplished another mountain pass, another goal, and for that I am thankful. We also surpassed our halfway mark of walking 50 total days on this trip. Tomorrow: We hike again, we climb again. That’s just the pilgrimage we’re on. Maybe in the end I will feel like the warrior I know I am deep inside.

Here’s the link to the YouTube video to Cella. Here’s the link to the video to Fronovo di Taro.

Walking stats from Fidenza to Cella – 17.1 km

Lodging – Fraternità Francescana di Betania – donation based, included lunch, dinner, and breakfast the next morning

Walking stats from Cella to Fronovo di Taro – 18.8 km

Lodging – La Vecchia Quercia Bed and Breakfast – €80

VF Day 16-18: Finding Joy in the Long, Flat Road & Teaching

Posted on June 19, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

This long flat road from Santhia to Pavia reminds me first of the Meseta on the Camino Frances only longer. My photos are all same, I am tired of the views, and my inspiration isn’t coming like it was just a few days ago. It also reminds me of how a 15 week semester can feel.

Finding the beauty when the terrain doesn’t change

At the beginning of the semester everyone is filled with excitement, the students are diligently reading the assigned chapters, and they have set lofty goals for the term. Even after 24 years, I am inspired by their enthusiasm every single time… and then we settle into a routine.

Before long the honeymoon phase is over. The students are working two jobs, have a family, and are taking a full load of classes. They aren’t reading consistently before they come to class. I’m trying to raise their energy level but they are realizing how lofty their goals really were from the start.

I’m swamped with grading, committee work is intense and usually a waste of time, but dang it I have a job to do. I want them to love Public Speaking. See, see I have lofty goals too. Haha!

Teaching is much like being on a pilgrimage. In the beginning we are excited to embark on the new adventure, we are instantly inspired by everything around us, have completed the research, and oh yes, we have set our own lofty goals.

Then the routine settles in. We are more experienced than the typical student so we think we are ahead of the game. This is our third pilgrimage, so we are well-versed about what the routine will be – eat, walk, eat, walk, wash clothes, eat, sleep, repeat. But it only takes one tough semester for a student to figure out their routine. Experience can happen quickly out of desperation to stay afloat.

Something happens in the semester that requires a lot more of my energy to build them up, engage them, and remind them how important Public Speaking really is to their future. Good thing I am the queen of passion when it comes to Communication courses. I need that same mustering up of spark when the days on pilgrimage are long and boring.

Just like in a semester, on pilgrimage, I know what happens after the honeymoon phase is over. It’s the same thing that happens to me, my students, and yes, even to my professional clients. Life happens. All of a sudden you realize the five other projects you have put off doing and now they are due, someone gets sick, a bad nights sleep, maybe something stole your creativity, or maybe your schedule feels too monotonous to bear.

We are currently in the part of our pilgrimage where my creativity was stolen and, at the same time, my schedule is feeling quote monotonous. Some days Brian is the creative one. Have you seen his animated video game YouTube video from our walk? If not, click here. Other days, I try to be the creative one. Here’s my attempt at a TV show on the Via Francigena, click here.

We make a great team and together we get through the tough days. In comparison, I wish I could team teach. Creativity multiplies amongst creative people. A team gives one person the space to have a bad day, work through their emotions, while the other person cheers the team along.

Until the day comes when I can team teach, I will learn the lesson before me – a team comes from anyone around you and I when I don’t have my husband with me, I usually have an outstanding group of students eager to be on my team.

I look forward to the days ahead, the next phases of our pilgrimage, and I pray for that easy feeling of daily inspiration. I will continue to make notes which will come in handy when inspiration in low in my “regular life.” For now, I will rely on my teammate while on this pilgrimage.

Check out these two days on YouTube!

Then check out our ridiculous attempt at singing our way through the Via Francigena on this YouTube video!

Walking stats from Robbio to Mortara – 15.78 km

Lodging – B&B Antica Corte Lombarda – € 77

Walking from Mortora to Tromello – 13.6 km

Lodging – Hotel Duca di Tromello – € 75

Train from Tromello to Garlasco – 5.4 km. Walk from Garlasco to Pavia – 18 km

Lodging for 2 nights in Pavia – B&B Castellani – €171

The VF Day 14 & 15: Toilet Paper, Food, & A Soft Bed

Posted on June 15, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

Ramblings from the Via Francigena…

I don’t ask for much when we’re on pilgrimage. Having our most basic needs met is really all we desire which means availability of decent toilet paper, food, and a soft bed. 😆 Unfortunately, that is asking too much at times. 😏 The biggest difference between the pilgrimage we are on and the traditional understanding of backpacking is the aforementioned luxuries.

Remember the toilet paper crisis of 2020? How could we forget! Toilet paper is still an important topic though, right? Let me tell you during the first week of this pilgrimage, we had outstanding toilet paper. Oh Switzerland, I don’t know what you do to make your toilet paper so grand but I would love to invest stock in it and bring it to the United States. I mean, it’s that good, friends. Since we have arrived in Italy the quality has diminished. I think you understand the challenge and I’m sure I have said enough on the topic.

You read about my challenges with finding food in an earlier blog, if you didn’t, click here. Lately, finding food has not been too much of a problem. We do need to review where we are walking each day to ensure there will be a stop for food. If there isn’t, we have to prepare for the long stretch without food by finding a market the night before. We start walking early in the morning to beat the heat. Unfortunately dinner isn’t typically served until at least 7 p.m. but I am grateful at this point for finding food at all. I’m sure there will be more on good in future blogs.

My last rambling today is about the importance of a good nights sleep. Let me say, as a backpacker, my lightweight backpacking inflatable mattress is often more comfortable than the beds we have slept in since entering Italy.

I wish I would have brought my inflatable mattress but I didn’t know it would be this much of a problem. I thought the snoring of other pilgrims would be my biggest issue. But, nope! Don’t get me wrong, I am not looking for the most luxurious feather bed. I would just prefer the bed be more comfortable than the ground. It is hard enough to walk this many miles day-after-day but when you add a bad nights sleep to the mix, it makes the walking even more challenging.

Last night was the first time in a week I had an outstanding night’s sleep. I wish I could take that bed with me. Today’s walk was easier because my low back and hips weren’t screaming at me.

Maybe I’m asking too much. Maybe I want to think about more than just my most basic human needs. I am a researcher of Maslow and I know I can’t self actualize if I am always worried about my basic needs. Maybe I should stop worrying and be thankful for a roof over my head and any toilet paper at all. Maybe I shouldn’t worry about self actualizing. Maybe I already have or maybe I should just stop rambling about all of it.

That’s all I have for you today. Be thankful for your bounty, your bed, of course, your toilet paper!

Stats walking from Santhià to Vercelli – 10 km plus a train for 16 km so we could enjoy an afternoon in Vercelli. We definitely should have planned a rest day here, what a great town! Check out our YouTube video too!

Lodging at La Terrazza Vercelli Bed & Charme – €118 – outstanding bed and air conditioning on a very hot day. Paid too much but worth it for an outstanding nights sleep!

Stats walking from Vercelli to Robbio – 17.64 km. Check out our YouTube video here!

Lodging for at Agriturismo Pescarolo/Casa del Pellegrino – €60 for a private room with a shared bathroom and back to the typical bed with no air conditioning.

Gluten is Not My Friend

Posted on June 10, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

Oh how I wish we were the best of friends. The pastries, the pizza, the pasta, the bread, Lord have mercy, the bread. I want to have a relationship with these foods like no other relationship I have had before. Sorry, Brian but you get me.

I don’t want to linger on this discussion because I made a decision many years ago that my life will not be defined by whether or not I eat gluten. But I do think it’s an important topic for those who care to understand how I manage my food allergy.

Let me take you back to our first pilgrimage in 2017 on the Camino Frances in Spain. I ate zero gluten the entire trip and, with regards to food, I was miserable. I hated missing out, I hated have to explain my food allergy to every sweet person trying to give food to a hungry pilgrim, but most of all I hated being defined by my food allergy.

In 2019 when we walked part of the Camino France and all of the Camino Portuguese, I decided food allergy be dammed, I am eating whatever I want. LOL My body said, “Oh you want to play that game, let me show you who’s really in charge.” Guess what? It’s not the mind, it’s the stomach. I paid a hefty price on that pilgrimage. I had breathing issues, anxiety, and the horrific, constant wheat belly. When I eat gluten, my belly protrudes and makes me look very round in the middle until is processes through my body at a snails pace as it impacts my breathing. I didn’t want to believe the gluten was to blame, denial was much easier to manage.

Fast forward to when we decided to go on another pilgrimage. I spent the year working with my doctor to ensure my heart and lungs were functioning well (since I developed breathing issues). I got a colonoscopy where my doctor did two different tests for celiac disease. He confirmed that I do not have celiac disease. Well, there’s a win!

I went to my allergy doctor, we decided to go ahead with a food allergy test. Guess what? Dang it, it was confirmed that I am allergic to wheat. Not the, “you will go into anaphylactic shock,” type of allergy but one step down, a moderate allergy. I already knew that but my mind needed the confirmation. Now what? I am going to Italy! I am eating the pasta! Ughh!! But I will not let my food allergy define me.

I did some research and found a gluten relief pill to help ease the pain my body goes through to process wheat. Click here to see what I use.* It’s not a perfect system, but as long as I take it before I eat wheat, my body processes it a bit faster. I still have a bit of breathing issue and my belly still protrudes some but it helps the wheat process faster.

On pilgrimage, the greatest problem is that we are at the mercy of those who are providing food for us. Some places we stay only have bread and coffee for breakfast as that is typical for Italians. I am not going to hike on coffee alone. See my blog, “I’m Hungry and I Don’t Want to Talk About It.” Therefore, I avoid gluten when I can, I take the preventative pill and eat it when I have to do so.

Life is a delicate balance of choices whether you have a food allergy or not. Sometimes we eat too much, drink too much, and that’s just life. My allergy will not define me, it’s just part of the consideration when I make choices. I can feel a life lesson in there, can you?

On this day, I found gluten free snacks! And a cappuccino with chocolate. 🥳

*We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.

VF Day 7 & 8: Our First City in Italy – Aosta

Posted on June 8, 2022 by Cruisin Michelle

After four challenging days of hiking going up and over the Swiss Alps, meandering through lots of Swiss and Italian villages, we have arrived in our first big city in Italy, the quant town of Aosta with a population of over 125,000 people. The big attractions are a Roman bridge, Roman theater, Roman wall, Roman crypt, and an 11 century cathedral. Check out our YouTube video to see Aosta. It’s our first glimpse of what is to come as we walk to Rome. Can you feel the excitement? It’s there I promise, I’m just tired.

We wandered the old town some, wanted to enjoy much more of the city but our calves are screaming at us. Getting out of bed this morning was frightening. Honestly I didn’t know how well I would make it to the bathroom because it hurt to stand up. Don’t worry, I made it successfully! Haha! By 10 a.m. our legs are feeling more normal.

I am sure the nice stretch our calves got on the way up the mountain helped us but right now we are tired. Therefore, keeping our “we’re on pilgrimage while on holiday” philosophy, we are taking an unplanned but welcome rest day.

Let me take you back to how this worked out. We stopped in Aosta for lunch but the original plan was to continue to the village of Nus. I have no idea why we weren’t stopping for the night in Aosta. I was probably more focused on being frugal. However, just like in my first blog, click here, you know we pivot well if we need to because of weather, circumstances, or our bodies tell us to slow down.

At lunch we had the realization we better check for food options in Nus because it’s a Monday. I haven’t mentioned this yet but a lot of places are closed on either a Sunday or Monday. We look ahead and sure enough, all of the restaurants in Nus were closed when we were planning to walk into town. Ugh, click here to read about the food issues this pilgrimage is already bringing up.

Here we go, time to pivot. We cancel our accommodation, unfortunately with a loss of €45, and booked a fabulous little B&B right on the plaza. By the way, the B&B has two rooms, pay the €5 extra and get the bigger room. We didn’t and the trash/street cleaning trucks made it feel like an earthquake erupted four times in the 6 a.m. hour. The other room had windows off the plaza and I’m going to assume it was quieter.

Hallelujah a rest day! We bus ahead to the village of Saint Vincent which is known for it’s thermal baths. We stay in a hotel with a pool and we have scheduled massages. I can’t tell you how happy this makes both of us. We are just at the beginning of this pilgrimage and we need to be kind to our bodies because we are asking a lot of them.

Check out our YouTube video from Aosta to Saint Vincent.

Stats walking from Echevennoz to Aosta – 14.46 km

Lodging at Maison Boch — €86

Stats from Aosta to Saint Vincent – we went by bus skipping 32 km on the Via Francigana for a rest day

Bus – €5.80
Pool time and massages and worth every euro! – €180
Lodging at Hotel alla Posta – €68