These are frequently asked questions about the Camino de Santiago. This blog post addresses common inquiries regarding preparation for the walk and specific questions for those traveling with us. I have broken it down into four categories: Phones and Wifi, Money and Financial Concerns, Preparations and Daily Concerns, and Social Media. If you have a question not addressed in this blog, please reach out so we can add the question/answer.
Phones and Wi-Fi
Will my phone work?
The easy answer is yes! However, you need to decide what you do for coverage. Because of the cost, we don’t use our regular cell phone plan when we travel to Europe. Instead, we order a European SIM card from Orange right before we leave and activate it when we arrive in Spain. This is the link to their holiday plan. It’s an eSIM, so you can complete this online. Your phone has to be unlocked. Reach out to us if you have questions.
Will there be cell service?
Yes! You will be walking in populated areas with lots of cell coverage.
Will there be wi-fi?
Almost every bar, restaurant, and lodging will have wi-fi. I cannot guarantee it will be fast, but you will have phone access when needed.
Money and Financial Concerns
How much should I budget for lunch and snacks?
This depends greatly on how much you eat and if you are a drinker. Cocktails are a lot more expensive than wine. Water usually comes in a bottle unless you specifically ask for tap water (agua del grifo), but I cannot guarantee that will always work. If you budget 25-30€ daily, that should be plenty (unless you are a cocktail drinker, those can be 5-8€ each). Don’t forget money for souvenirs.
How much cash should I have with me?
You should always keep a small amount of cash, but not too much in case something happens and you lose your wallet. We recommend no more than €100 on hand time.
Will there be ATMs along the way?
You will find ATMs everywhere along the way, but those can have hefty fees if you don’t know what you are doing. Use a bank card that doesn’t have international fees or ATM fees. For cash, we use our Charles Schwab checking account debit card. Schwab does not charge ATM or international fees; they also reimburse you for any ATM fees the other bank charges.
We strongly advise against using currency exchange locations! Although they are visible, they are expensive, and there are much better alternatives for accessing cash.
Beyond the fee, what other expenses should I expect?
The only expenses you should incur are meals throughout the day (second breakfast, lunch, snacks, cocktails), pharmacy needs, and souvenirs.
Tips and gratuities from our group members are appreciated by our tour guides, drivers, and cooking class instructors..
What happens if I can’t go on the trip?
The $500 deposit is non-refundable. We will work on the rest with you. If your travel insurance is active when that decision is made, that is a great way to ensure we are still paid. At a minimum, we expect you to cover any expenses we will be out (museum tickets, etc).
Preparations, Daily Concerns, and Itineraries
What is the schedule going to be like?
We will start our day at about 7 a.m. Your walking will be done between 1-3 p.m. Then it’s time for washing clothes, grabbing a nap, and some self-reflection. We will have dinner at about 7 p.m. as a group. We will not only enjoy a meal but also reflect together. Lights out is about 10 p.m. so we can start again the next day.
What if I have dietary restrictions?
Please let us know ASAP so we can ensure you have breakfasts and dinners that meet your dietary needs. Please understand that a typical breakfast is coffee and a pastry.
Should I have a guidebook with me?
If you get lost, you should have a phone app with GPX tracks to help you find your way. Some people also like a guidebook. Here is an example of one we like to carry with us. Also, note that Google Maps will help you get back on a main road but not necessarily the trail.
Do I need to know the local language?
It’s helpful to have a basic understanding of the language. This will help you greet people properly and order food when you are hungry. Listening to podcasts like Coffee Break or working through lessons on Duolingo are very helpful.
Will there be pharmacies?
You will walk through multiple villages throughout the day, and pharmacies are everywhere. They will have everything you need, just like you would find in a CVS or Walgreens.
Will there be access to water on the trail?
Yes! There will be many places to grab water from fountains along the trail. It will be unfiltered water from a fountain. However, the fountains are used by locals and pilgrims alike, and we have not had any issues with them.
Will we all walk together?
Yes and no, that depends on the group. We will let the group decide what they are most comfortable with for the daily walks. We will not leave anyone alone unless they want to walk alone. We may start our day together and spread out throughout the day. Don’t stress – we are there to support you!
Social Media
I want to be off-grid while on the trip; is that possible?
Yes! Tell your friends to follow Cruisin’ with the Colemans on Facebook or Instagram. We will post photos and videos throughout the day on Facebook and Instagram. Additionally, we will be posting daily vlogs on YouTube during the trip. Your friends and family will have a lot to watch without bothering you!
How do I get the photos you took?
We will share a drive with you containing photos and videos that you can download. They are yours forever!
I hope this blog answers your questions. However, if it does not, please reach out. Leave a comment below so we can add your question to this post.
We’ve been walking for a week. My feelings are a mix between excitement about what we’re seeing and a bit of homesickness. I always get this feeling about a week into any summer trip, especially since becoming a grandma.
The Cathedral de Santiago in Bilbao 
This feeling is especially strong when we aren’t meeting a lot of people or creating relationships that last more than a day. We are meeting a lot of people along the Way but we have not made those lasting relationships yet. A lot of people we’ve been walking with ended their Camino in Bilbao. We have faith in the Camino so we know there are good things coming. 
From Bilbao
The two day break in Bilbao was fantastic because we both needed it. My legs were hurting really bad from all the climbing. We slept in, we wandered the city quite a bit, we got massages, and enjoyed a leisurely pace. But, we are on Camino and it was time to begin again today.
Leaving Bilbao is quite industrial, so we took a metro train to Portugalete. This means we walked around Bilbao for about a kilometer to find breakfast and get to our train, then we took a train to Portugalete, and then we wandered around Portugalete for a few kilometers before we started walking the Camino again. The start and stop of today was a bit much for both of us. Once we stopped in Portugalete, we were ready to be done.
The Portugalete Bridge
Portugalete is a cute town! I love the escalator walkways that get you up the hill easily! I love the tram that gets you across the water. The town really is adorable but I’m glad we moved on to La Arena because I wanted to be back on the ocean! In the end, we walked about 16 kilometers.
The walking/bike path connecting Portugalete to La Arena
I love the scenery all around us and I love walking Caminos. However, not every day is a great day. Today wasn’t a bad day, it just wasn’t a great day. The walking was the easiest it’s been thus far. Heck, maybe that was the problem, it was too easy. 😆 We walked a bike/walking path the entire time. I wish we had a walking/bike path this nice in Ohio. It was quite easy walking but my mind just focused on everything that hurts and my homesickness. It happens.
From industrial to rural, the Camino changes
Tonight we’re in an outstanding apartment with a balcony overlooking the ocean and free use of the washing machine. Dinner is less than 200 meters away. Last night we FaceTimed with our son and granddaughter. It doesn’t get much better! I think we may even have a sunset over the water. I have a lot to be thankful for today. ❤️
The view from our apartment tonight
We love sharing our travels with you. Most importantly we love hearing from you! Thanks for the comments and messages! We appreciate you! ❤️
Tomorrow will be a better day.
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The views continue to improve. I don’t know how long it will last so I’m trying to take it all in. Though this terrain has my knees and thighs screaming!
An easy climb
Every kilometer takes a long time and every view takes my breath away or is that the climbing? I don’t know but I’m constantly exhausted. We decided to walk the Norte route because it was hard and had epic views. We’re not getting any younger so we need to check things like this off our bucket list while we still can do them.
The way our walk started today
I can’t believe this morning started with an easy 5 kilometer walk along the ocean, it was amazing!! This was an optional route and I’m thrilled we took it! The sounds of the waves splashing on the rocks made the walk fly by!
This makes the climb worth it
Then we left the seaside to climb, and oh did we climb! We are just training because tomorrow’s climb is even more intense. I keep telling myself it will get easier but we’re from the flat lands of Ohio where a hill doesn’t even compare to this terrain. And honestly, I don’t mind the climb, my problem is how long it takes me. We’re getting into our accommodations much later than I like to arrive. Some nights our clothes don’t have enough time to dry (in part because we’re having to dry them inside because of the rain).
The village of Zumaia
We did have to bus ahead a bit today because it was time to get the staples removed from my head and I had to get to a clinic before they closed. Click on this blog post if you don’t know what happened. My head is healing well. I still have headaches quite a bit. We’re taking 2 full rest days in Bilbao which I pray helps. I’m resting a lot when I can, daily naps are a blessing.
Even the forest is lush
After I got my staples removed, we had about 3.5 kilometers left to walk and a massive climb at about 350 meters (or 1,148 feet). A tough climb especially at the end of the day. We’re staying past the village of Deba at a Casa Rural in the middle of nowhere but with an amazing view of the ocean while perched on a mountainside.
From our bedroom window
The views are worth it. Tomorrow we’ll have a bit less of a climb, though it’s still going to be another tough day with about 450 more meters of climbing and about 600 meters of descent. 3 days until Bilbao, then 2 full days of rest. 🙌🏼 Maybe we’ll find a boat tour, unless Mother Nature keeps this rain around us.
Time will tell. I would not change a thing! ❤️
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Have you ever gone on a walk or hike for views but been disappointed? This almost happened to us during our walk from Irún, Spain to San Sebastián. But when I’m on the Camino, nothing can kill my mood.
Views from day 1 leaving Irún
We usually prefer not to cover a lot of ground on the first day of the Camino, as it’s important to pace ourselves since we have 36 more days of walking ahead. However, we walked 14.5 miles for two reasons. First, we didn’t experience jet lag as we had already been in Europe for a week. Second, we knew we were going to have a rest day in San Sebastián, which is what we’re doing now as I lay here typing this blog. As much as I enjoy our adventures, I also love a good rest day with zero miles walked. 🥰
The weather tried hard to kill my mood yesterday. We decided to take the high road which was much steeper but the payoff was supposed to be the views. And we did have some amazing views…until the fog, wind, rain, and for a short time, hail moved in. Oh my gosh, we couldn’t see 10 feet in front of us.
The fog before it rolled in even more
This happened to us in 2017 on the Camino Francés where the fog rolled in terribly as we climbed the Pyrenees hoping for views. It happens. We can’t let it get us down, we’re going to have plenty of days with amazing views.
But what we did see was breathtaking! From the sea to the mountains, then there were horses, colts, cows, and of course wildflowers!
An easy part of the trail
“They” say the Camino doesn’t give you what you want, rather it gives you what you need. I didn’t need the rain and hail but what it forced me to do was focus on my feet and I did need to watch every step because the terrain was treacherous. The trail was rocky and muddy, fortunately, it wasn’t too slippery but if I hadn’t been watching my step, I’d be dealing with another head injury (read more about that here).
Dinner (with gluten free bread) and Netflix
We made it to San Sebastián tired and sore. It was 6 pm before we got into our room! For reference, we like to arrive at our hotel by 1-2 pm to shower and grab lunch before siesta. Instead, we stopped at a market for this delicious spread. It was our version of “Netflix and chill” and we never left the room. We were exhausted!
The Village of Pasaia Gipuzkoa before the ferry ride
It’s a new day and we are in beautiful San Sebastián so it’s time to explore. Bye for now!
If you haven’t had enough and you want to see our walk, check out our video from today’s walk.
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Why are we enjoying dinner tonight in our Paris apartment? Well, it’s been a rough first day. 😔 I can’t believe it happened but I (Michelle) took a terrible fall. Unfortunately, I saw the inside of a Paris hospital within the first 24 hours of being in Europe. 🤦🏻♀️
A late breakfast
We had a leisurely morning, slept in and recuperated from our jet lag a bit. We enjoyed the most delicious café and gluten free treats (more on the gluten free food in Paris in another blog). We took the metro to Montmartre, wandered up to the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, and then decided to walk the 300 steps to the top of the dome of the basilica.
From the top of the basilica
So far so good, then I landed on one step wrong as we were walking back down the tower. I slipped backwards and slammed my head on 100 year old stone. There was a lot of blood, as there usually is with head trauma.
So much blood even I was startled, not to mention Brian. The look on his face was pure shock and fear. Immediately I was mad at myself. I should have looked better, I should have walked more carefully, I should have worn better shoes, and then I realized I had to get back down those stupid spiral stairs.
By the time I was ready to walk, security had made its way up because they heard about the fall and an ambulance was on its way. They said it was protocol and I had to go to the hospital. It was a good thing I went as I ended up with 4 staples in my head. I only went to the hospital because they insisted and I wasn’t going willingly.
Escorted down the dome by paramedics
Yep, my first full day in Paris and I end up at a hospital to get staples in my head. The experience at a Parisian hospital is another story entirely. However, in short, if you have a medical emergency in Paris please go to the local American hospital. You will thank me. Seriously, write that down and don’t forget.
My poor blood soaked sweater and my impractical (yet cute) shoes
Now it’s time to move on from this experience and salvage the rest of our time in Paris. Fortunately we were able to rearrange our schedule so nothing was a total loss. Unfortunately in 7-10 days I have to find a clinic to remove my staples. 🤦🏻♀️ Wish me luck.
As for Paris, I pray this was our only meal indoors.
As I lounge in my comfy recliner thinking about the summer adventure we are embarking on today, I can’t believe this is my life. Maybe I am dreaming; if I am, I pray I don’t wake up. I always wanted to be a world traveler but didn’t think it was realistic. 26 years ago this August I was a young, single mom barely holding it together. I moved to Ohio with my 7-year-old son and our dog. I didn’t know anyone. I planned to be the best college professor I could be and when my son graduated from high school I would travel the world and teach abroad.
I had lived in Ohio for 7 years when I met Brian on e-Harmony. Fortunately, he loved to travel and had taken a lot of choir trips with students to fulfill his wanderlust. I am thankful we have figured out how to continue our mutual love for travel and turned it into something meaningful for us both.
Every year I think, “We can’t top that trip!” yet somehow we do. This year it’s all about multiple destinations, flying around Europe exploring 3 countries. We will start in Paris, the city of love. I am sure I have over-romanticized it like every other American woman. I don’t care. We will see Paris as it prepares for the Olympics and then be back for a couple days during the Olympics. It’s going to be fantastic to watch the city show the world how good she can look.
The Camino del Norte route map
Next, we will spend about a month and a half walking the Camino del Norte. This will be an epic hike! We are walking along the northern coast of Spain but it won’t be an easy walk on the beach. Every day we will climb the Spanish rolling hills (some days it will feel like mountains). Daily epic views, yes, but a challenging walk.
After about 40-ish days of walking, we will travel to the Netherlands to explore this small country. The Netherlands is a special place because I am part Dutch; my maternal grandfather was born in the Netherlands. We are keeping the itinerary flexible so we can just relax and enjoy! As long as I see the Anne Frank house, the windmills, and the canals, I am happy! But did I mention they will also be having Carnival? Maybe it won’t be quiet but we’ll try to take it easy.
This epic adventure will wrap up back in Paris where the Olympics will be in full swing! It’s been 100 years since Paris hosted the Olympics. I can’t believe we will be there. I can’t believe this is my life. We are blessed and I don’t take that for granted. This trip may break the bank, so when we’re looking for second jobs you know why. Haha! Teachers for hire, anyone?
I plan to blog while we’re there. I want you to feel like you’re in Europe with us. It’s certainly easier to take you than it is my comfy recliner. I will sacrifice the chair to enjoy the rich history and romance of Europe. In the meantime, leave a comment below to tell me what you want to hear, see, etc. This is our trip. I am excited you’re going to take an adventure with us!
A budget for any vacation/holiday is a personal topic. It’s scary to allow others to see how we chose to spend our money. We risk judgment and ridicule. However, the benefits of sharing go back to the theme of all my blogs which is to share all parts of our Camino experiences despite what others think. I am an open book and will remain that way. You’re welcome. ❤️
We have walked 3 pilgrimages, the Camino Frances, Camino Portuguese, and the Via Francigena from Switzerland to Rome. We found it was the cheapest to walk the Camino Frances and the most expensive was the Via Francigena. If you want to see our YouTube videos on our latest walk, the Via Francigena, please click here.
A typical bunkroom in Switzerland
With some exceptions, you can find lodging from as cheap as a donativo where you make a donation for a bed, typically in a shared bunk room, with a shared bathroom. Sometimes that accommodation has bedding but you usually need to bring your own. Occasionally your host will serve a communal dinner but it is expected that you would leave more money. A typical donation is anywhere from €10-20 per person.
On the Via Francigena, you can camp in many places if you have a tent but I don’t know much more than that because we have never made the decision to camp. I know it’s illegal to wild camp in Spain but I also have known those who do it from time to time. Again, not my area of expertise.
The entrance of our donativo lodging in Cort St. Andrea
With all of the pilgrimages we have done, we use guidebooks. They include lodging suggestions ranging from a donativo, camping, churches, municipalities, and private lodgings. When creating our reservations we always start with the guidebooks and create a plan from there.
Speaking of a plan, that’s another factor – to plan your reservations ahead or not. Some people will reserve a night or two ahead, especially in the busy season. Some people will just wing it every day, letting their feet decide how far they will walk each day. Others, like us, plan out all of our reservations ahead of time. There is no right or wrong way to plan…or not. It’s up to you and your personal preference.
Why do we choose to plan every night in advance? It’s a great question, haha. I mean, what if there’s an injury? What if we just can’t walk that far? What if we meet people we really want to walk with but can’t because they are staying in different places? Life is full of “what ifs.” We have also experienced every one of those challenges.
On our Camino Portugues, I had a foot injury and we had to rent bikes for a few weeks to give my foot a break. This meant we didn’t bike very far every day because we had to stick to our lodging plan. We made a few changes along the way to have some longer days more suited for a bike but only with the refundable reservations.
We always have days when we just can’t walk as far as we planned. However, we aren’t purists so we are ok with grabbing a bus, train, or taxi. We have to walk during the hottest part of the year so there are always going to be challenges, heat or not honestly. Creating a plan works for us because we enjoy trip planning. We enjoy making a few decisions while walking a pilgrimage. We like looking forward to planned rest days in villages/cities we have developed an interest in during our planning. Finally, as a couple, it gives us one less thing to debate when we are hot, tired, and crabby. My philosophy is I can argue for free at home but when on vacation/holiday, I don’t want to argue. Haha! Plus, planning gives us something to think about when the school year is getting exhausting or the winter months are feeling long.
Knocking on the budget door!
But you came here for a budget talk. There are a lot of factors that go into a budget for anyone. We have a few basic expectations if possible: (1) A private room because it’s the summer when we are walking and it’s too hot to be in a room with others. Additionally, snoring and the noise of a shared room are not something we prefer. A good night’s sleep is critical. (2) A private bathroom is ideal but not required. A shared bathroom is ok from time to time if it saves us money but we really like a private bathroom. (3) We want shared experiences with other pilgrims so we look for accommodations for pilgrims with a communal dinner and then ask if they have private rooms. Many times they do if you ask early enough, as these tend to book up early. (4) Since we are walking in the heat of the summer we look for places with air conditioning from time to time and more often when we are experiencing excessive heat. These are the most expensive rooms but necessary for relief from the heat. I get terrible heat rash in the summer and only a cool night’s sleep brings me relief from it. (5) When we are booking a two-night stay we always look for a private room, with a private bathroom, with air conditioning. This is the ideal situation unless the air conditioning isn’t working but that’s another subject.
The joys of a private room
I mentioned you can find rooms for €10-20 a person and in order to make our budget work we find rooms like this from time to time. Other rooms in accommodations for pilgrims can run us €35-50 total for both of us. A room from websites like Booking.com can run €50 to over €100, depending on the city. Of course, your bigger cities will have all types of accommodations for any budget.
For comparison, in 2017 on the Camino Frances, our budget averaged €50 a night but if we were to do it again we could do better to lower that budget. We didn’t stay in as many pilgrim accommodations as we could have then. We’ve learned a lot since 2017. Though with inflation, who knows for sure what our budget will be?
In 2019, on the Camino Portuguese, we walked the coastal route which is more expensive. Our budget averaged €65 a night. However, we struggled to find pilgrim accommodations on the coast. In retrospect, I think we could have done a better job and lowered that cost a bit.
In 2022, on the Via Francigena, we averaged €75 a night. Our cheapest nights were donativo’s at €20. We had a few pricey nights because we took rest days in Marina de Massa and on Lake Bolsena. But we have no regrets. This was our 15 wedding anniversary trip and our 50th birthday trip. It was all we dreamed about and more.
We didn’t spend money on laundry because we hand-washed our clothes every day. Our only other expense was the occasional pharmacy run for compeed or anti-inflammatory cream, food, and of course, wine.
Sometimes you just need Doritos and wine… in bed while your laundry is drying 😆
A food budget is extremely subjective. There is no way we can compare food budgets and be helpful. First, I am married to a foodie so getting him to pull back on trying every new dish is impossible. Second, we are wine lovers so there has to be a wine budget. And why not, it’s Italy!
We saved food money by utilizing any free breakfast food offered even if it didn’t appeal to us. We packed them as snacks or enjoyed them immediately. We limited our espresso budget and only enjoyed a good cappuccino from time to time, sorry we aren’t coffee lovers. We would grab food in a market whenever possible. But our love of cocktails, wine, and outstanding dinners made our budget a bit bigger. We spent about €75 a day on food.
As the CFO of our family, my goal is to stay within our budget and never have credit card debt. We want to retire debt-free and retirement gets closer every year. We did what we set out to do. Are we more cash-poor because of it? Yes! But the memories are priceless and you can’t take it with you! ❤️
Our trips may look extravagant to some but when you’re on pilgrimage there are no souvenirs. We took a long walk to Rome and enjoyed every step, even the rough ones.
The routine is natural to us, it’s both easy and uncomplicated. We wake up between 5:30-6 a.m. and are walking just as soon as we get out the door. Ideally there’s a bar/caffé between 5-8 km into the walk for a breakfast stop. If I have to wait until 10km, I’m cranky and if there’s no food along the way I’m…let’s not talk about it. We can usually find something. However, sometimes we can only find food once a day. This trail is not like the Camino de Santiago where there’s food about every 5-7 km, sometimes the food on this trail is quite scarce.
Marcello and his pilgrim rest stop in La Villa
Yesterday, while walking to Siena there was only one stop for food for our 20 km walk. It was a roadside stand with a great guy, Marcello, who created this food stand in front of his house. Marcello and his cake and cappuccino were a huge blessing. He only accepts donations.
Once we finish the walk, usually between noon – 2 p.m., the routine continues. This part reminds me of RVing when we arrive at a new campground. Everyone needs to leave us alone while we back up the rig and get it set up. Similarly, when we arrive at our accommodation for the night, we can’t get distracted by stores, wine, food, or a festival which was the case in Monteriggioni.
Looking back at the walled city of Monteriggioni
When we check into a new place, we show our passports, pay for the night so we don’t have to worry about it in the morning, learn how to use the keys, and understand what’s expected while we’re there. Once that’s done the next step is critical unless we’re hungry or there’s a festival like in Monteriggioni. In case you’re not sure yet, the festival really tried to distract us and throw off our routine. Wait until that YouTube video is out, wow!
Once we’re settled into our room it’s time to hand wash today’s clothes so they have plenty of time to dry and grab a shower before anyone else has to smell us. At that point we are free to wander around the town, go to the church, peek in the shops (though nothing can be purchased unless they can ship it home), and of course, find more food.
The goal is to be in bed by 9 p.m. so we can do it all again, unless there’s a festival outside your window. I’m all for a good distraction, you know that, but right now I’m in a pilgrim zone as we attempt to finish the last two weeks strong. The festival in Monteriggioni was a nice distraction in the walled village with only two streets but the main stage was right outside of our unair-conditioned room and it went on until well after midnight. That is tough on a pilgrim.
Once we got to Siena we were both tired from the late night but the distractions were everywhere and so were the tourists. Just getting to our accommodation meant dancing around tourists who randomly stop in the middle of the street for a photo of anything. I want the photos too but not with my backpack on. And if you bump into me, I will leave sweat in your clothes.
I will admit, tourists are exhausting. I’m thankful I don’t live in a tourist town. Deciding to take a rest day in a tourist town isn’t for every pilgrim. I get it. There’s so much to do but what we need to do is recuperate and rest our feet.
Our rest day regimen includes: Sleep in, wander around until lunch, take a nap, work some/watch Netflix, grab dinner, and get to bed at a reasonable time. However, in a tourist town that means we can pick only a few things to see or we will wear ourselves out!
Inside the basilica – you’ll have to wait until the video comes out for all of the footage!
Siena is no exception but we managed it successfully! The city guide brochure is 27 pages long and has the city broken up into 3 areas. 😳 We left our room about 9:15 a.m. and did our best wandering until fresh pizza was calling our name. After lunch we took a 3 hour nap. Oh my gosh, that was the best part of my day! Haha!
Of course, since we’re accustomed to the late dinner, we had our la passa giata (evening stroll) this evening around the Piazza del Campo and followed our noses to a good meal. Our wallets paid the price for the lack of planning but it was worth it for the vibe. We have a 25 km walk tomorrow and it’s going to be 92°f/33°c tomorrow so no sleeping in for us!
This has been our routine for 45 days. Yes, 45 days! (Note: We’ve been on pilgrimage for 45 days but the title reflects our walking day count to follow our YouTube videos.) It feels natural to us to the point where it will be strange when we’re not walking. But that thought brings me to tears and it’s a blog for another day. For now I will focus on the pleasure of our final 12 days of walking. Rome will be here too soon.
Ciao! Ciao!
Walking stats from San Gimignano to Monteriggioni included 12 km of walking and 15 km by taxi
Lodging at Castello Casa per ferie Maria Assunta with a private room – €74
Walking stats from Monteriggioni to Sienna – 20.74 km
Lodging for 2 nights in a tourist town at La Terrazza Sul Campo-Rooming house – €226
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Gear – Gear – Gear! Let’s talk gear. It’s not my favorite subject to write about but I love to read what others carry in their backpacks, so alas, I need to talk about it too! Haha!
Skip to the end for the list of items and links!
Watch the video on YouTube to see what we’re talking about!
I don’t like talking about it because everyone seems to be an expert. I am not an expert, nor are most people. Though we have had quite a bit of experience at finessing the gear we carry on any trail. We have been day hiking for 15 years, we have backpacked on the Appalachian Trail and other trails, and this is our 3 pilgrimage. We each have some pieces of gear that work superbly and we continue to use, we have some pieces of gear that are right for some types of trails but not others, then we have gear that continues to change as our needs change and the gear improves.
A pilgrim statue on the Via Francigena. He looks like his pack is too heavy or his day has been too long
My backpack is 38 liters. This is my second pilgrimage with it. On our first pilgrimage, I carried a 48 liter pack and it was too big. This one works perfectly for me. Brian carries a 48 liter pack and it’s his third pilgrimage with it. He has never used the brain of the pack so it’s obviously a bit lighter weight/less storage. He loves his pack. Unfortunately it is starting to really show it’s age so he may need to reach out to Osprey before our next trek. While walking on this type of pilgrimage, these are the backpacks we carry but these packs are also great for a 2-4 day backpacking trip.
While walking our 3rd pilgrimage, now on the Via Francigena, I feel like my gear is pretty spot on. I have a few things I would change, but overall, after walking 30 of our 50 days, my pack feels pretty darn good. When it comes to Brian’s pack, well, I think he carries too much but he’s happy so I’m happy. See, everyone has an opinion about gear. However, I think that’s where others should leave their opinions. If you have not gathered yet, people seriously love to analyze gear in every hiking/walking circle we are a part of. It’s an exhausting topic. If someone is happy, let them be, that’s my philosophy. If you want to read about what we carry and a bit of why with pros/cons, continue reading. If you want a summary of what we are carrying now with links to our gear, skip to the end. You can also view our gear and hear us talk about it on our YouTube video.
We are just over halfway through this pilgrimage and it was time to give even the backpack a bath. Ewww…
When it comes to clothes, we are minimalistic. We have one outfit we are wearing and one outfit being hand washed and hanging on a line to dry. Brian does carry one extra shirt that’s a t-shirt. It’s a shirt we can both wear if needed, he likes the back up. I know we going shopping when we get to Rome, so it doesn’t bother us at all to wear the same two outfits. Our clothes are made of tech gear which drys fast, wicks away moisture, and is lightweight.
My pants are from REI. They roll up into capris, they stretch, and the waistband adjusts as (hopefully) I get a bit smaller while backpacking. I love pants because sometimes it’s cool in the evenings, I can hike in them, they are great for churches that require my knees being covered, and they are lightweight. By the way, we are surrounded by the most amazing food, I doubt I am getting smaller. Oh well!
I also have a pair of skorts from Tail which is a golf brand. This is new for me on this Camino. In the past, I have worn leggings and legging shorts. I actually really love my Tail skort. There are lots of options for skorts in the hiking gear world. My challenge was (1) I am a bigger girl and I like my skorts a bit longer and (2) I wanted something that was cute. They are a bit heavier with the thick waistband but it’s actually worked perfectly as a layer between me, my fanny pack, and my backpack. I did have the back pockets removed and sewn closed because they had front pockets and that saved a bit of weight. A big win all around.
My shirts are also a Tail brand and I love them! I have one that is sleeveless and one that is short sleeves. They are made of polyester and spandex. They wash and dry fast, don’t wrinkle, and I like how they look. That’s a trifecta if you ask me! Brian wears button up shirts from Eddie Bauer and Columbia. He loves the button up shirt but hasn’t been thrilled with the patterns. It’s hard to find something you will still like wearing after 50 days!
Top photo: Via Francigena in 2022; Bottom photo: Camino Frances in 2017
Brian wears two shorts, one is a pair of zip off pants and the other is shorts. Both have big pockets, made of tech gear, and he loves them. One pair is from Eddie Bauer and the other he found on Amazon. There is a summary with links to below.
Undergarments are the same, wash and wear. The first two pilgrimages I wore sports bras that had to be put on over the head, it was awful because I was often so sweaty and sticky from the heat, they rolled up. A bra should not be a two person job. Now I wear a Under Armour zip up sports bra and a regular underwire in the evenings. I like the balance of the two. Sports bras are the most comfortable to wear all day and all night, for me. I wear basic Bali underwear, Brian wears Jockey. They have worked for us for many years. For both of us, our underwear dries the fastest of everything. TMI but important for hikers: I like hiking with panty liners because I think they help with freshness.
When it comes to socks, Brian doesn’t wear any because he hikes in Chacos. I have tried all the different socks from very expensive to the opposite. I have worn double layer socks, toe socks, thin running socks with vaseline to prevent friction, and compression socks. This year I have wool socks and I absolutely love them. I have had one small blister and it was not a big deal to manage. The wool socks take a bit longer to dry but it has not been an issue.
The only other clothing gear we have is our Marmot rain coats. They double as our only long sleeve layer since we sent ahead a few things, I will summarize those items shortly. The rain coats have zippers under the arms for ventilation. They are lightweight and fold up in their own pocket. Some people like ponchos but we prefer rain coats because we can wear them with or without our backpacks. We have rain covers for our packs and that works well.
Since we are spending the summer walking into the sun we decided to bring hats and sun umbrellas (weighing in at only 6.8 oz each). The umbrellas were great when we were walking in heavy rain, even hail one day. We have used them on extremely hot, sunny days when there is no breeze. They don’t work well with a breeze because it stops the air flow. They also don’t work well if you are walking up a steep hill because they limit your view from that angle. I am not sure I would bring it again but it definitely has helped some.
After clothes, we have toiletries. We picked up both of our toiletry kits from REI before our first Camino and we are still using them. Mine unzips, unfolds, and can hang up. Brian has an expandable zippered bag. They are very lightweight, a couple of ounces at best. We share what we can (toothpaste, shaving cream, comb) and carry medium to small bottles where we can’t/won’t share (shampoo, conditioner, soap, toothbrushes, razors, hair ties). See our video for more on that topic.
Most important piece of gear – your shoes!
Shoes are another hot topic. Before this pilgrimage, I desperately wanted to change my shoes out to something lighter weight. Over a year of preparing for this trip, I tried out at least 40 pairs of “these are perfect for me” shoes upon the advice of other hikers. This is where “everyone is different” comes in. I wish I could have a pair of hiking shoes designed for my feet but until that day comes, I will stick with the shoes that have worked. I wear a pair of Merrell’s (link below). For Brian, this is his third pilgrimage hiking in just Chaco’s. He manages cracked heels with vaseline or lotion and a foot scrubber. He hasn’t had any issues and loves hiking in them.
When it comes to other things we carry, this is all about personal needs and preferences. I carry salt sticks because we are hiking in extreme heat most days, packets to add to our water that have electrolytes, and a small bottle of Advil/Aleve. Brian carries a couple of energy bars for an emergency and electrolyte drops. We both carry our own vitamins and medications. I also carry muscle relaxers for the tough days. We each use hiking poles and wouldn’t backpack with them.
We weren’t planning to tent camp, though you can and many do on this trail. Therefore, we didn’t bring a tent or sleeping bags. However, because of some of the ostellos/albergues/hostels we’re staying in, we needed something for the bed so we carry silk liners. They are perfect for the summer and lightweight. We each carry a lightweight towel because they are not provided in many of our accommodations. We have a small one for our wiping sweat all day, that I also use as a washcloth, and a larger one for drying. The towels we are carrying this time are different than before and we are happy with them.
Before I talk about our blogging/YouTube gear, I need to tell you about the gear we sent on to Rome. When we started this hike, we knew we wanted a few extra things for the cold/cooler weather of Switzerland. When that was over, and the roaring heat wave started, we needed to lighten our packs. Brian gave away his long sleeve shirt and gloves. He shipped ahead a fleece, ear plugs, eye cover, socks, and the legs to his pants. I shipped ahead my leggings, lightweight zip up jacket, eye cover, ear plugs, compression socks, and the vitamins I won’t need until we get to Rome. We used DHL and shipped our box to our accommodation in Rome with their permission. It was relatively easy but we did have the help of a local because you need a VAT number. We can apply for one but we didn’t have that time and we appreciate a local helping us out. When we get to Rome, we will buy suitcases for our shopping spree! Haha!
Finally, there is the gear we need so we can bring you all of this outstanding reporting from the trail. I am minimalistic, again. My phone case has a stand and I carry a portable Bluetooth keyboard. It’s a life saver to my fingers! Brian doesn’t carry much compared to many YouTubers. If you are watching our videos, you see his hiking poles with the phone on one and the GoPro on the other. He also carries an iPad, stand, a portable keyboard, and a small tripod that doubles as a selfie stick.
In 2019 we started our YouTube channel while walking the Camino Frances and Camino Portuguese. Brian only worked from his iPhone and wasn’t happy at all. I barely blogged because I hated not having a keyboard. For 2022, we are both thrilled with what we are carrying.
When we left the states, our backpacks were a bit heavier than we wanted but we knew (1) things like energy packets, electrolytes, and vitamins would lighten the load as they were consumed and (2) we hoped to ship ahead what we weren’t using. Without water, my backpack weighed 18 pounds and Brian’s weighed 22 pounds. I think each of our backpacks are down another 1 ½ to 2 pounds now. The only time my pack is heavy is at the start of a day when I need to carry more than 1 ½ liters of water. Fortunately, that doesn’t happen too often.
I hope you found this blog helpful when it comes to gear on a pilgrimage. Like I said at the start, it’s really about personal preference but I know the experiences of others helps to make good decisions about what you will carry. Here is a summary with links to where we got it.
Toiletries include chafing cream, face lotion with sunscreen, portable razor with case, shampoo I use for soap, washing hair and clothes, conditioner, tweezers, nail clippers, hair ties, allergy nose spray, eye drops, toothbrush head, toothpaste.
First aid kit: Compeed, band aids, antibacterial spray, Vaseline, alcohol wipes, scissors, needle and thread, moleskin, paper tape, cortizone cream, antacids, & Advil/Aleve
I don’t ask for much when we’re on pilgrimage. Having our most basic needs met is really all we desire which means availability of decent toilet paper, food, and a soft bed. 😆 Unfortunately, that is asking too much at times. 😏 The biggest difference between the pilgrimage we are on and the traditional understanding of backpacking is the aforementioned luxuries.
Remember the toilet paper crisis of 2020? How could we forget! Toilet paper is still an important topic though, right? Let me tell you during the first week of this pilgrimage, we had outstanding toilet paper. Oh Switzerland, I don’t know what you do to make your toilet paper so grand but I would love to invest stock in it and bring it to the United States. I mean, it’s that good, friends. Since we have arrived in Italy the quality has diminished. I think you understand the challenge and I’m sure I have said enough on the topic.
You read about my challenges with finding food in an earlier blog, if you didn’t, click here. Lately, finding food has not been too much of a problem. We do need to review where we are walking each day to ensure there will be a stop for food. If there isn’t, we have to prepare for the long stretch without food by finding a market the night before. We start walking early in the morning to beat the heat. Unfortunately dinner isn’t typically served until at least 7 p.m. but I am grateful at this point for finding food at all. I’m sure there will be more on good in future blogs.
My last rambling today is about the importance of a good nights sleep. Let me say, as a backpacker, my lightweight backpacking inflatable mattress is often more comfortable than the beds we have slept in since entering Italy.
Mattresses for sale in Vercelli!
I wish I would have brought my inflatable mattress but I didn’t know it would be this much of a problem. I thought the snoring of other pilgrims would be my biggest issue. But, nope! Don’t get me wrong, I am not looking for the most luxurious feather bed. I would just prefer the bed be more comfortable than the ground. It is hard enough to walk this many miles day-after-day but when you add a bad nights sleep to the mix, it makes the walking even more challenging.
Last night was the first time in a week I had an outstanding night’s sleep. I wish I could take that bed with me. Today’s walk was easier because my low back and hips weren’t screaming at me.
Maybe I’m asking too much. Maybe I want to think about more than just my most basic human needs. I am a researcher of Maslow and I know I can’t self actualize if I am always worried about my basic needs. Maybe I should stop worrying and be thankful for a roof over my head and any toilet paper at all. Maybe I shouldn’t worry about self actualizing. Maybe I already have or maybe I should just stop rambling about all of it.
That’s all I have for you today. Be thankful for your bounty, your bed, of course, your toilet paper!
Stats walking from Santhià to Vercelli – 10 km plus a train for 16 km so we could enjoy an afternoon in Vercelli. We definitely should have planned a rest day here, what a great town! Check out our YouTube video too!
Lodging at La Terrazza Vercelli Bed & Charme – €118 – outstanding bed and air conditioning on a very hot day. Paid too much but worth it for an outstanding nights sleep!
Stats walking from Vercelli to Robbio – 17.64 km. Check out our YouTube video here!
Lodging for at Agriturismo Pescarolo/Casa del Pellegrino – €60 for a private room with a shared bathroom and back to the typical bed with no air conditioning.
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
★ 25 years guiding★ 48 U.S. states★ 10 countries★ 3,000+ Camino miles
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.
