What Do I Bring on Pilgrimage? Camino Packing List

It’s easy to overpack for a pilgrimage—believe me, I’ve learned from experience! On my first Camino, I carried way too much gear, and it was quite a burden, especially since I had to carry it all on my back. Fortunately, on our planned trips, you’ll have luggage service, so you won’t need to carry everything with you. Even with luggage service, this is not a trip of luxuries. We are on pilgrimage, so we are not carrying much “stuff” with us.

For the trips we lead on the Camino, each person is limited to one backpack or one small suitcase weighing no more than 15 kilograms or 33 pounds to manage the luggage for everyone. However, Brian and I take one suitcase (no more than 15 kilograms) between the two of us. We encourage everyone to pack light! Whether you have luggage service or not, having one backpack that weighs under 15 kilograms (the lighter, the better!) will help you, as it eases the burden of carrying your luggage day after day.

Our two backpacks from our 2019 Camino. This was everything we carried for 2 months in Europe

We believe in the principle of washing and wearing your clothes. What does this mean? It means you are either washing your clothes or wearing them. After hiking for the day, you should shower and wash your clothes. In the evening, you can wear hiking clothes for the next day. Any other clothes would be considered a luxury. You can have luxury items if you keep them in one backpack or suitcase under 15 kilograms (33 pounds). 

Ultimately, this is your trip. We will never tell you exactly what you “should” or “should not” take with you. This blog post offers suggestions and our perspective. Please feel free to use this information as you see fit.

This is our suggested packing list for any of our Camino trips.
Where there are differences between Brian and me, Michelle, we have identified them. These are just suggestions. You have to pack what you feel is best for you! Also, where we travel, you will be able to find what you need in local shops (band-aids, hiking poles, ibuprofen, etc)

  1. Toiletries: toothbrush, soap to wash clothes and body, shampoo, nail clippers, tweezers, comb, hair ties, etc. Some type of washcloth because they don’t use them as we do in the US. Here is the lightweight bag that I carry my toiletries.
  2. Sunscreen
  3. A bandana or something to wipe the sweat off your face. I use this towel as my sweat rag and my washcloth in the shower.
  4. Headlamp if you want to leave before sunrise to walk
  5. Clothesline: We use something like this, with safety pins to hold our clothes on the line
  6. A notebook or something like that for journaling
  7. Towel: When we take a group trip, the places we stay will provide towels. Some people like to have their own towels. This is Brian’s favorite towel, and this is my favorite towel. We carry a towel because sometimes we stay in places that don’t provide towels (outside of group experiences).
  8. European plug adaptor
  9. Portable backpack for evenings to get snacks or groceries or to take your laundry to the laundromat
  10. Sunglasses with UV protection
  11. Lightweight Sunglasses Case that clips on your pack.
  12. A hat: Here is what Brian likes to wear. I have worn my Nike hat but have no particular preferences.
  13. Merino wool lightweight socks are my favorite brand. I take two pairs, and I always have an extra pair in my daypack, so if my feet are sweating, I can change my socks. If your feet sweat a lot, I would suggest three pairs in case your socks don’t dry overnight.
  14. Some like sock liners to help prevent blisters. These are what I wear under my socks.
  15. Hiking shoes—this is quite a debatable conversation. Brian hikes in Chacos all day and wears Croc flip-flops in the evening. I hike in New Balance tennis shoes (a full size larger than my regular tennis shoes). I wear Chacos in the evenings and on shorter walking days. We have hiked for many years in other shoes, but this is what we have hiked in for more than three years. We can talk to you about all of the hiking shoe options, but it’s a decision you have to make.
  16. Some like a sun umbrella when they are hiking in the summer. This is our favorite brand because it’s super lightweight
  17. Lightweight underwear that fits well and has no lace that can rub and irritate the skin and will dry quickly—no cotton underwear! You just need two pairs—remember you are washing and wearing. These are the underwear that Brian wears, and this is the underwear I wear. We don’t buy expensive underwear; we just ensure it’s not cotton!
  18. Bras—ladies, that is up to you! Wear a sports bra during the day and a regular one at night; you decide. I can help if you need ideas. I hate sports bras. I have to pull them over my head because that is hard to do when you are hot and sweaty, so I love this sports bra.
  19. Lightweight jacket for cool evenings or early mornings. Remember, no cotton; this is the brand I prefer to wear.
  20. Rain jacket: You can make this your lightweight jacket if you want to save space. We love Marmot jackets
  21. T-shirts: Brian loves button-down shirts, and I prefer t-shirts. Either way, just make sure you are comfortable. Avoid wearing anything tight; you don’t want to feel self-conscious! Some people like tank tops. The problem with tank tops for hiking is (1) the rubbing from your daypack strap and your bare skin can become uncomfortable, and (2) many churches frown on those who don’t have their shoulders covered. You must have your shoulders covered in Italy to go into a church.
  22. Shawl: Some people like to have a nice shawl with them for cooler nights as a wrap or for churches.
  23. Pants: Brian likes zip-off pants (no more than two pairs). I like skorts and shorts
  24. Sleepwear: Brian sleeps in his underwear. I sleep in my evening dress or t-shirt and underwear. People on the Camino are not modest.
  25. Sleep liner: We travel on Camino in the summer; therefore, a light sleep liner is all we need when sheets are not provided. Sheets will be provided for our group travel experiences. Every albergue we have stayed at has blankets available. However, if you stay somewhere where sheets are not provided, this is our sleep liner.
  26. A swimsuit if you think you might be able to find a place with a swimming pool (on our trips, we always try to find a pool!)
  27. A swim cap. In Europe, people are required to wear a swim cap in most public pools (we have been required to purchase swim caps in some hotels but not all hotels). Brian loves this one because it’s comfortable. I love this one because it has room for all of my hair. It’s not waterproof, but it is comfortable, and that’s what I like about it.
  28. A fly swatter, you will thank me if it’s fly season!
  29. A sink stopper to wash your clothes in the sink. You would be shocked at how many people take or don’t provide a sink stopper.
  30. Some sort of stain remover pen. If you truly have a limited number of clothes, a stain-removing pen will be a blessing, so you don’t have to live with a stained item.
  31. Arnica Montana homeopathic medicine. Pills you put under your tongue that melt in your mouth. These pills help with muscle stiffness, cramping, bruising, and swelling. You can take these up to three times a day.
  32. Anti-chafing cream is a good thing to have if you have parts that rub. Haha!
  33. We always take a bit of Advil and muscle relaxers (non-drowsy script from the doctor).

In your daypack – If you are not carrying a backpack but rather a suitcase and daypacks, this is the daypack I use and the daypack Brian uses. You can carry something smaller, whatever you are most comfortable using. But ensure you have a way to cover your backpack if it rains. You should have the following at a minimum in your pack:

  1. Water bottles, a water bladder, or both. We both like carrying a water bladder to drink from while hiking. We also like a water bottle to make a drink with electrolytes or a flavored drink. Water bladders should only contain water to prevent mold or bacteria from forming.
  2. Water bladder cleaning tab. For a trip that is two weeks or less, you just need one tab to clean your bladder halfway through your trip
  3. Electrolytes. If you are feeling dehydrated, overheated, weak, or sluggish, drinking electrolytes will help. I love this brand of Salt Sticks for quick relief, and this brand for putting in my water bottle.
  4. Snacks. We find snacks in a local grocery store and only buy what we may want for the next day. This can be fruit, trail mix, chips, etc. Whatever makes you happy
  5. You should bring a few toiletries, such as tissues, toilet paper (yes, some places will have toilets without paper!), and maybe ibuprofen.
  6. You could also consider a small notebook if you like to journal with pen and paper or give your number to someone you meet along the way.
  7. Your cell phone charger, if you think you will need it during the day
  8. Your pilgrim shell should be attached to your daypack, as this identifies you as a pilgrim to other people
  9. Bring a fanny pack with your essentials. This includes your pilgrim’s passport (also called a credential), your US passport, and money for the day.
  10. A hat or a sun umbrella
  11. Some sort of stain remover pen. If you truly have a limited number of clothes, a stain-removing pen will be a blessing, so you don’t have to live with a stained item. Have one in your suitcase and one in your daypack unless you are using just a backpack.

AirTags: Be sure to place AirTags in everything from your suitcase to your daypack and even your fanny pack. It might seem like overkill, but you never know when you might misplace something, and you’ll be glad you have your AirTags!

You will find plenty of ATMs along the way. We carry a Charles Schwab card for our ATM transactions. CS reimburses your ATM charges, and there are no upcharges.

What type of SIM card do I need for my phone? We used to use Orange eSIM cards when we traveled abroad; however, we currently have an international Verizon cell plan. Choosing a phone plan involves several considerations. Contact us if you have questions about phone plans and traveling abroad.

If we have forgotten to include something on the list or if you have any questions, please let us know.

Thanks for reading! – Michelle

Camino del Norte | Güemes to Comillas | Days 10-13

I wanted to write a blog but decided to take a nap. Seriously, I can’t seem to get enough sleep lately. My body is trying to adjust but this Camino is tough on all my parts.

Albergue el Convento

Today was lucky day 13 on the Camino and it’s my first day in awhile without a nap. However, it could be because of the circumstances. We’ve been quite spoiled on this Camino. Heck, I’ve been spoiled on all Camino’s thus far because I’ve never slept on a top bunk. Six Camino’s and no top bunks. I hate top bunks. I despise them. They require upper body strength I don’t have anymore. Let’s be serious, I probably never had it. And in the middle of the night I pray I don’t have to use the bathroom.

My first top bunk, hopefully my last

Let me back up a bit. I know we haven’t had a “true” Camino experience thus far because we’ve been in private rooms the entire time with only two communal meals. We’ve enjoyed many private rooms over our many Camino’s. I have no shame in that because as a couple I quite enjoy sleeping next to my husband. Yep, I said it. Even when we’re laying near each other in our separate twin beds, which is typical. I enjoy the little bedtime conversations we have before we drift off. I enjoy our luggage spread out all over the room. I don’t care who knows it, I love sleeping with my husband. 😆❤️ I know his habits and have learned to tolerate them. But this guy in the lower bunk across from me is super annoying right now.

Communal dinner at Albergue El Convento

I long for communal dinners. I love conversations over a meal with other pilgrims. I don’t need to share a room with them. At this very moment as I lay on my top bunk, I’m listening to several people rustle in their beds, a few still coming in and out of the bathroom, one person stinks of cigarettes, another person just stinks, the person below me has her light on, and another person is touching every loud piece of equipment they brought with them. I’ve usually napped by now and am asleep for the night by 10 p.m. Currently, it’s 11:05 p.m. and several people still have their lights on. I am, by the way, laying in bed in the dark with only the light of my phone to write this blog. I miss discussing this chaos with my hubby.

It’s honestly hurt our Camino to not have communal dinners because we haven’t bonded with anyone until last night. But, in our defense, there have been so many tourist cities it’s been super easy to just stay in a private room. Also, I look for communal dinners and the opportunities have been limited.

Having fun with our new Aussie friends at the Gaudi Castle in Comillas

But, alas, our pilgrim family is beginning to form. We have a pilgrim daughter from Alaska, Sophia. Brian taught her to thread her blisters tonight. She is so happy with how her feet feel! We have friends from the Netherlands, Australia, Italy, and France.

Last night we had an outstanding communal dinner at Albergue El Convento in Santillana Del Mar. We enjoyed wine in their gardens, a sharing time with other pilgrims, and a communal dinner. The rooms were 2 beds each so Brian and I had a private room. Fortunately Brian took the top bunk. He loves me. We had an outstanding communal breakfast. I slept like a baby. I don’t care about shared bathrooms. I just hate sharing a room and despise top bunks, if that’s not clear yet.

Tonight’s albergue is this shared room, photo above. It’s stuffy in here because the doors are closed, the fan is off, the A/C isn’t running, and there’s no air flow in the room. The curtains are nice but they don’t help the air flow.

The plus side for tonight has nothing to do with the lodging but rather the company. Because we enjoyed a communal dinner last night, we made friends with another couple and we went to dinner with them. It just takes one good communal dinner to make relationships. Besides growing closer together as a couple, we walk Camino’s for the relationships.

The views are out of this world

I want to tell you about the epic scenery we’ve been experiencing for the last few days but I’ve been talking long enough. Please follow our YouTube channel for breathtaking footage of our walk. Words and photos don’t do it justice but we try. This route is simply stunning.

Cows and the ocean. It doesn’t get much better

I have to get some sleep now. There’s already one terrible snorer and it’s not Brian. If I was alone in a room with Brian I would just call his name and tell him to roll over. It would work and I would get some sleep. But this guy is a stranger so I don’t think it’s a good move to smack him.

This is my last top bunk for any Camino. I can guarantee that for sure. Sorry, but in the future I’m going to do my best to quietly sleep next to my husband. ❤️ Thanks for reading today’s rant. It helped to vent.

Update: I didn’t sleep well and I am looking forward to today’s nap.

Camino del Norte |La Arena to Santoña | Days 8-9

The days have been gorgeous but the mountains all around us are daunting. Every day I have to mentally gear up for the hills.

The contrast of the mountains and the sea

A German pilgrim said it best, “I love to climb mountains. But when I go up, I want to go down. I don’t want to go up and down multiple times in a day.” The climbs are no joke. And I agree with her. I’m fine to climb one mountain (or huge hill), but we climb 2, 3, 4, and even more in a day, every day.

The beautiful flowers that surrounded the doorway to a home

The funny part is I knew this is what it was going to be like. I don’t know why I’m surprised. I just keep going back to the fact that we’re from the flat lands of Ohio. However, we’re not the only ones feeling this pain.

The views are amazing! I knew they would be great. My legs are sore but they will look fabulous by Santiago (as fabulous as they will ever look for a girl with cellulite issues). If we meet in person, please ask me to flex my calf muscles, it will make me smile.

Can you spot the Camino marker?

The villages are great. There is something very special about Spanish villages. I love days like yesterday and today where we wandered through several of them in a day.

The bigger cities that we stay in make it harder to meet pilgrims. We’ve only stayed in one albergue with a communal dinner. Part of that is us, we’ve been leaning more toward private rooms. But part of that is the Camino and the limitations of who will accept our reservation and luggage service.

A rocky path connecting two villages

We have not seen one pilgrim menu. A pilgrim menu is something we would have daily on the Camino Frances. Even finding stamps for our credential is difficult. This is quite surprising to us. We were in a church yesterday and they didn’t even have a stamp. That was shocking. It’s a different Camino but we knew it would be so it’s ok. But these are my observations for today.

Camino del Norte | Bilbao to La Arena | Day 7

We’ve been walking for a week. My feelings are a mix between excitement about what we’re seeing and a bit of homesickness. I always get this feeling about a week into any summer trip, especially since becoming a grandma.

The Cathedral de Santiago in Bilbao 

This feeling is especially strong when we aren’t meeting a lot of people or creating relationships that last more than a day. We are meeting a lot of people along the Way but we have not made those lasting relationships yet. A lot of people we’ve been walking with ended their Camino in Bilbao. We have faith in the Camino so we know there are good things coming. 

From Bilbao

The two day break in Bilbao was fantastic because we both needed it. My legs were hurting really bad from all the climbing. We slept in, we wandered the city quite a bit, we got massages, and enjoyed a leisurely pace. But, we are on Camino and it was time to begin again today.

Leaving Bilbao is quite industrial, so we took a metro train to Portugalete. This means we walked around Bilbao for about a kilometer to find breakfast and get to our train, then we took a train to Portugalete, and then we wandered around Portugalete for a few kilometers before we started walking the Camino again. The start and stop of today was a bit much for both of us. Once we stopped in Portugalete, we were ready to be done.

The Portugalete Bridge

Portugalete is a cute town! I love the escalator walkways that get you up the hill easily! I love the tram that gets you across the water. The town really is adorable but I’m glad we moved on to La Arena because I wanted to be back on the ocean! In the end, we walked about 16 kilometers.

The walking/bike path connecting Portugalete to La Arena

I love the scenery all around us and I love walking Caminos. However, not every day is a great day. Today wasn’t a bad day, it just wasn’t a great day. The walking was the easiest it’s been thus far. Heck, maybe that was the problem, it was too easy. 😆 We walked a bike/walking path the entire time. I wish we had a walking/bike path this nice in Ohio. It was quite easy walking but my mind just focused on everything that hurts and my homesickness. It happens.

From industrial to rural, the Camino changes

Tonight we’re in an outstanding apartment with a balcony overlooking the ocean and free use of the washing machine. Dinner is less than 200 meters away. Last night we FaceTimed with our son and granddaughter. It doesn’t get much better! I think we may even have a sunset over the water. I have a lot to be thankful for today. ❤️

The view from our apartment tonight

We love sharing our travels with you. Most importantly we love hearing from you! Thanks for the comments and messages! We appreciate you! ❤️

Tomorrow will be a better day.

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Camino del Norte | Gernika to Bilbao | It’s Not a Holiday, It’s an Adventure | Day 6

As we chatted with so many pilgrims today while walking 20 kilometers and climbing over 500 meters (1600 feet), I’m amazed at how my legs are starting to feel. I don’t want to jinx it but I may be getting stronger. 

The mud was unforgiving

The climbs, the mud, the rocks, the ascents, and the descents were all treacherous today. The climbs were steep and the mud was deep. Brian’s feet were covered in mud and tennis shoes lost their cute factor today.

The pilgrim adventure

These two, desperately needed, rest days came just in time. Brian needs a haircut, our clothes need a washing machine, we both need massages, and our legs need a break from the climbs! 

Our first glimpse into Bilbao

We arrived in Bilbao today, a bustling city with a ton of character. I’m glad we have two days to explore because we need to go at a very slow pace. We didn’t see much today as we didn’t even wander beyond our hotel for dinner. 

The sign that told us where we were having dinner

As luck would have it outside of our hotel there was this sign and we knew we had to eat dinner there. Last year on our Camino Frances, our pilgrim friend Sean raved about these “Kevin Bacon” burgers that we had to try. So our “pilgrim family” joined Sean (and his amazing dad, David) for a Kevin Bacon. 

The Kevin Bacon is the burger in the back, I had the BB Queen on the gluten free bun

Seriously, it’s the best burger! If you ever find yourself at a Goiko burger joint, stop in! We need a Goiko in the United States! They even have outstanding mojitos and gluten free buns. The only thing missing tonight was our pilgrim family. 

Finding our Way

I hope another pilgrim family develops but for now we all have different end stops. We’ve enjoyed the company of ladies from Germany, two different couples from the United Kingdom, a couple from the Netherlands, and so many more but their adventure is ending now or they are pressing on because their journey ends in a few days. 

The horses are great company

Whether our relationships are long or short, we have enjoyed everyone we’ve met so far! I can’t believe we’ve only been walking for 5 days. Today a lovely conversation with a Statistics Professor from Germany got me through a big climb; it even made me feel like my legs are getting stronger. 

The village of Lezama where we chatted with a great couple from the Netherlands as we all waited for a bus into Bilbao

As my English friend said today, “this is not a holiday, it’s an adventure!” What an adventure it’s been so far! I can’t imagine what will happen over the next 30 days of walking until we arrive in Santiago. Yes – we still have 30 more walking days!!

What an adventure so far!

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Camino del Norte | Deba to Markina-Xemein to Gernika | Days 4-5

What started out as a good day, took a rough turn, but ended up being our best evening thus far!! Oh, this Camino del Norte, she remains a painstaking, action packed adventure. 

The view from our lodging

It started with a late breakfast which always stresses me out because that means we finish our walk later. We stayed at this Casa Rural that I thought would be pilgrim friendly but the prices were high and they didn’t start serving breakfast until 8:30 a.m. Most pilgrims like to be walking by 7-8 a.m., depending on the weather, sometimes earlier if it’s going to be really hot.

We left the ocean views today

The climb wasn’t too bad before our first stop for a snack but then we made the mistake of looking at Google maps. Our map did save us time, meters of climbing, and mileage but there was a cost. We had to walk through a closed fence that, fortunately, wasn’t locked and then we had to climb through some barbed wire. It felt like we walked through a private compound. There were at least 6 vicious-sounding dogs, thankfully they were chained up. Then there were, we will call them, deer blinds but some could call them guard towers. Fortunately nobody was around but we were thrilled to get the heck out of there!! But no, we weren’t about to turn back and climb down the hill only to climb up a different, bigger hill! Plus, if you know me at all, I have been told I can be intense. So, we were fine. 😆🫣

The route we went on was a bit easier according to the pilgrims we talked to in the evening but – yikes – it was intense!! No, there are no photos of the “compound” as we didn’t need evidence we were there.

We listened to the stream water most of the day

We walked about 15 kilometers on the blacktop which is brutal on the back, hips, and knees. But we only gained about 400 meters (1312 feet) of elevation, as opposed to the main route which gained almost 700 meters of elevation. It was a killer of a day! Brian hit rock bottom, I’m just thankful we both didn’t because I’m not sure we would have made it to our accommodation. We could still be on the side of the road. 

An area for pilgrims to visit, meditate, and just relax the afternoon away

But it was the most perfect evening! I can’t believe a day could have so many highs and lows but that’s the Camino. We stayed at this most wonderful Casa Rural (rural house that provides lodging). They did more than provide lodging! We had cocktails, a washing machine, perfect weather for clothes to be dried outside on the clothesline, and best of all, we had our first communal dinner! 

Plenty of places to dry your clothes

We spent the evening with our toes in the lush green grass, sipping cocktails, and talking to people from Germany, France, England, Switzerland, Scotland, Ireland, and the United States. We enjoyed the best meal with produce from the garden. It’s truly the biggest blessing of the Camino. Nights like that remind us why we love the spirit of the Camino! 

The sunrise from our lodging

We slept like babies in the most comfortable bed! We woke up to a delicious breakfast including gluten free bread and homemade jam. Seriously, I pray we have so many more nights like this one. 

The first climb of the day

Today’s walk was uneventful, no barbed wire. 😆 We followed the route. Though it was quite hilly we had lots of little villages to enjoy.

Unfortunately we had to climb down 7 flights of stairs today

We made the decision to bus ahead so we only walked 13 kilometers and took a bus for 12 kilometers. We needed the rest after yesterday. Tomorrow is going to be another big day of climbing so it’s time to nap. Bilbao will be here soon with 2 rest days. We’ve never needed them as much as we need them now. 

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Camino del Norte | Zarautz to Deba (and then some) | Day 3

The views continue to improve. I don’t know how long it will last so I’m trying to take it all in. Though this terrain has my knees and thighs screaming! 

An easy climb

Every kilometer takes a long time and every view takes my breath away or is that the climbing? I don’t know but I’m constantly exhausted. We decided to walk the Norte route because it was hard and had epic views. We’re not getting any younger so we need to check things like this off our bucket list while we still can do them. 

The way our walk started today

I can’t believe this morning started with an easy 5 kilometer walk along the ocean, it was amazing!! This was an optional route and I’m thrilled we took it! The sounds of the waves splashing on the rocks made the walk fly by!

This makes the climb worth it

Then we left the seaside to climb, and oh did we climb! We are just training because tomorrow’s climb is even more intense. I keep telling myself it will get easier but we’re from the flat lands of Ohio where a hill doesn’t even compare to this terrain. And honestly, I don’t mind the climb, my problem is how long it takes me. We’re getting into our accommodations much later than I like to arrive. Some nights our clothes don’t have enough time to dry (in part because we’re having to dry them inside because of the rain). 

The village of Zumaia

We did have to bus ahead a bit today because it was time to get the staples removed from my head and I had to get to a clinic before they closed. Click on this blog post if you don’t know what happened. My head is healing well. I still have headaches quite a bit. We’re taking 2 full rest days in Bilbao which I pray helps. I’m resting a lot when I can, daily naps are a blessing. 

Even the forest is lush

After I got my staples removed, we had about 3.5 kilometers left to walk and a massive climb at about 350 meters (or 1,148 feet). A tough climb especially at the end of the day. We’re staying past the village of Deba at a Casa Rural in the middle of nowhere but with an amazing view of the ocean while perched on a mountainside. 

From our bedroom window

The views are worth it. Tomorrow we’ll have a bit less of a climb, though it’s still going to be another tough day with about 450 more meters of climbing and about 600 meters of descent. 3 days until Bilbao, then 2 full days of rest. 🙌🏼 Maybe we’ll find a boat tour, unless Mother Nature keeps this rain around us.

Time will tell. I would not change a thing! ❤️

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Camino del Norte | San Sebastián to Zarautz | Day 2

Views like this all day

The views on this Camino don’t stop! Everywhere you look is a photo op!! I don’t have enough adjectives in my vocabulary to describe what we see, and of course, the photos don’t do it justice. 

Today we met a ton of pilgrims from all over the world. We met pilgrims from America, Australia, Italy, Switzerland, England, Finland, and lots of Canadians. It was great to engage with so many people. It – almost – made me think less about the climbs. 

I love it when the horses pose

This elevation gain, loss, and gain again is tough and we’re just getting started. My knees ache and the walking is slow. Hopefully our bodies will adjust to what we’re doing soon. 

But, oh my gosh, the villages are beautiful. The ocean is a massive delight to look at all day, sometimes up close and other times from a distance. The mountains are lush and bright green. And of course, there are plenty of animals to distract us. I swear Camino cattle are the most photographed in the world. 😆

The weather is improving but it’s still raining at least part of every day and it’s chilly. The cold doesn’t bother me but I could do without the rain. Fortunately the rain just adds to the vibrant colors around us. 

Only a couple of days until our next big city, Bilbao where we are taking two full rest days. Can I get a hallelujah?! 🙌🏼

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Camino del Norte | Irún to San Sebastián, Spain | Day 1

Have you ever gone on a walk or hike for views but been disappointed? This almost happened to us during our walk from Irún, Spain to San Sebastián. But when I’m on the Camino, nothing can kill my mood.

Views from day 1 leaving Irún

We usually prefer not to cover a lot of ground on the first day of the Camino, as it’s important to pace ourselves since we have 36 more days of walking ahead. However, we walked 14.5 miles for two reasons. First, we didn’t experience jet lag as we had already been in Europe for a week. Second, we knew we were going to have a rest day in San Sebastián, which is what we’re doing now as I lay here typing this blog. As much as I enjoy our adventures, I also love a good rest day with zero miles walked. 🥰

The weather tried hard to kill my mood yesterday. We decided to take the high road which was much steeper but the payoff was supposed to be the views. And we did have some amazing views…until the fog, wind, rain, and for a short time, hail moved in. Oh my gosh, we couldn’t see 10 feet in front of us. 

The fog before it rolled in even more

This happened to us in 2017 on the Camino Francés where the fog rolled in terribly as we climbed the Pyrenees hoping for views. It happens. We can’t let it get us down, we’re going to have plenty of days with amazing views. 

But what we did see was breathtaking! From the sea to the mountains, then there were horses, colts, cows, and of course wildflowers! 

An easy part of the trail

“They” say the Camino doesn’t give you what you want, rather it gives you what you need. I didn’t need the rain and hail but what it forced me to do was focus on my feet and I did need to watch every step because the terrain was treacherous. The trail was rocky and muddy, fortunately, it wasn’t too slippery but if I hadn’t been watching my step, I’d be dealing with another head injury (read more about that here).

Dinner (with gluten free bread) and Netflix

We made it to San Sebastián tired and sore. It was 6 pm before we got into our room! For reference, we like to arrive at our hotel by 1-2 pm to shower and grab lunch before siesta. Instead, we stopped at a market for this delicious spread. It was our version of “Netflix and chill” and we never left the room. We were exhausted!

The Village of Pasaia Gipuzkoa before the ferry ride

It’s a new day and we are in beautiful San Sebastián so it’s time to explore. Bye for now! 

If you haven’t had enough and you want to see our walk, check out our video from today’s walk.

https://youtu.be/SAJLkUrDiLs

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Arriving in Irún, Spain

We’ve arrived in Irún, Spain, in the northeast tip of Spain. It’s gorgeous here! I can feel the Camino energy all around me. We’re excited to start our Camino but what an adventure thus far. I’m starting the Camino a bit broken but don’t we all start that way?

We’d tried something new this year which was to enjoy a bit of holiday (vacation) time before we started our Camino. I’m not sure it was the best idea. You can read about that in a previous blog. In short, I cut my head open on a set of marble stairs. I have staples in my head and I had a terrible – just awful – hospital experience. 

What should we do?

What does that mean for our Camino? I’m not completely sure. I’ve been resting a lot the past couple of days. My head still hurts, there’s still bleeding. Tomorrow is a very challenging day with multiple, big climbs. The plan is to walk 5 kilometers to our first town, then assess again. I may decide to taxi to the next town, I may decide to try the climb. I’m tuned into my body and I’ll do my best to listen. 

The Camino is busy!! We’ve heard some pilgrims are struggling because they haven’t made advance reservations. If you’re walking the Camino del Norte, there are lots of options around here to stay but you would be wise to book in advance. We use the Wise Pilgrim app and the Cicerone guide book to make our decisions for lodging and route planning. We book everything in advance, don’t judge, it’s our Camino our way.

I’m glad we decided to start in Irún. It’s got everything we need, including tapas (fresh, warm appetizer bites) and café con leche (Spanish coffee). Of course there are grocery stores, pharmacies, bakeries, sporting goods stores, and even a gluten free bakery!!! 🙌🏼 These are all essentials on our Camino. 

We’ve hand washed our clothes, rested the afternoon away, and now it’s time to find an evening meal before we drift off for the night and our Camino truly begins. 

Warm goat cheese salad with bacon and pine nuts

When we entered our hotel in Irún, my daypack fell over and my shell broke. I’m truly starting this Camino broken in so many way. I pray for healing as we walk.

If you have questions about the Camino, this is our 6th one so we’ll be happy to answer them below. 

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles