We’ve been walking for a week. My feelings are a mix between excitement about what we’re seeing and a bit of homesickness. I always get this feeling about a week into any summer trip, especially since becoming a grandma.
The Cathedral de Santiago in Bilbao 
This feeling is especially strong when we aren’t meeting a lot of people or creating relationships that last more than a day. We are meeting a lot of people along the Way but we have not made those lasting relationships yet. A lot of people we’ve been walking with ended their Camino in Bilbao. We have faith in the Camino so we know there are good things coming. 
From Bilbao
The two day break in Bilbao was fantastic because we both needed it. My legs were hurting really bad from all the climbing. We slept in, we wandered the city quite a bit, we got massages, and enjoyed a leisurely pace. But, we are on Camino and it was time to begin again today.
Leaving Bilbao is quite industrial, so we took a metro train to Portugalete. This means we walked around Bilbao for about a kilometer to find breakfast and get to our train, then we took a train to Portugalete, and then we wandered around Portugalete for a few kilometers before we started walking the Camino again. The start and stop of today was a bit much for both of us. Once we stopped in Portugalete, we were ready to be done.
The Portugalete Bridge
Portugalete is a cute town! I love the escalator walkways that get you up the hill easily! I love the tram that gets you across the water. The town really is adorable but I’m glad we moved on to La Arena because I wanted to be back on the ocean! In the end, we walked about 16 kilometers.
The walking/bike path connecting Portugalete to La Arena
I love the scenery all around us and I love walking Caminos. However, not every day is a great day. Today wasn’t a bad day, it just wasn’t a great day. The walking was the easiest it’s been thus far. Heck, maybe that was the problem, it was too easy. 😆 We walked a bike/walking path the entire time. I wish we had a walking/bike path this nice in Ohio. It was quite easy walking but my mind just focused on everything that hurts and my homesickness. It happens.
From industrial to rural, the Camino changes
Tonight we’re in an outstanding apartment with a balcony overlooking the ocean and free use of the washing machine. Dinner is less than 200 meters away. Last night we FaceTimed with our son and granddaughter. It doesn’t get much better! I think we may even have a sunset over the water. I have a lot to be thankful for today. ❤️
The view from our apartment tonight
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Tomorrow will be a better day.
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The views continue to improve. I don’t know how long it will last so I’m trying to take it all in. Though this terrain has my knees and thighs screaming!
An easy climb
Every kilometer takes a long time and every view takes my breath away or is that the climbing? I don’t know but I’m constantly exhausted. We decided to walk the Norte route because it was hard and had epic views. We’re not getting any younger so we need to check things like this off our bucket list while we still can do them.
The way our walk started today
I can’t believe this morning started with an easy 5 kilometer walk along the ocean, it was amazing!! This was an optional route and I’m thrilled we took it! The sounds of the waves splashing on the rocks made the walk fly by!
This makes the climb worth it
Then we left the seaside to climb, and oh did we climb! We are just training because tomorrow’s climb is even more intense. I keep telling myself it will get easier but we’re from the flat lands of Ohio where a hill doesn’t even compare to this terrain. And honestly, I don’t mind the climb, my problem is how long it takes me. We’re getting into our accommodations much later than I like to arrive. Some nights our clothes don’t have enough time to dry (in part because we’re having to dry them inside because of the rain).
The village of Zumaia
We did have to bus ahead a bit today because it was time to get the staples removed from my head and I had to get to a clinic before they closed. Click on this blog post if you don’t know what happened. My head is healing well. I still have headaches quite a bit. We’re taking 2 full rest days in Bilbao which I pray helps. I’m resting a lot when I can, daily naps are a blessing.
Even the forest is lush
After I got my staples removed, we had about 3.5 kilometers left to walk and a massive climb at about 350 meters (or 1,148 feet). A tough climb especially at the end of the day. We’re staying past the village of Deba at a Casa Rural in the middle of nowhere but with an amazing view of the ocean while perched on a mountainside.
From our bedroom window
The views are worth it. Tomorrow we’ll have a bit less of a climb, though it’s still going to be another tough day with about 450 more meters of climbing and about 600 meters of descent. 3 days until Bilbao, then 2 full days of rest. 🙌🏼 Maybe we’ll find a boat tour, unless Mother Nature keeps this rain around us.
Time will tell. I would not change a thing! ❤️
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I really don’t want to tell you about our choices today but I am not going to worry about what you think. Our goal was 14.7 miles. We knew today was going to be tough for a couple of reasons.
First, as always, I am having foot issues again. UGH I am beyond irritated that I still have problems and my podiatrist will hear about it next week. This time it’s swelling on the foot I injured on our 2017 Camino and blisters on a couple of toes. Don’t get me started on shoes, I have tried them all and enough said on this issue. Next, it’s the 5th day in a row of massive training miles. We are exhausted. We thought a little bump this morning with our friend dropping us off 2 miles ahead of where we started would help, and it did, but that motivation didn’t last long.
By the time we got to our lunch stop after 7 miles of walking, we called it quits. I have no regrets. I took a nap, enjoyed wine, we walked a mile to dinner and a mile back. We walked 9 miles today. And, as a bonus, we had gorgeous weather to sit out and enjoy.
The Sycamore trees have been stunning all along & today the buttercups guided our way
Tomorrow will be our longest day yet at 15 miles. I am ok with calling an Uber. Having an escape plan makes everything a bit easier as we talk about in today’s YouTube video. I am excited about our lodging tomorrow but that’s for tomorrow’s blog post.
Today I will leave you with these photos from our dinner. We ate at a fabulous Italian restaurant with an impressive gluten free menu. It was as close to true Italian as we’re going to it. If you’re in Loveland, Ohio, gluten free or not, to to Rodi Italian Restaurant. Look at the photos and you’ll understand.
A dinner to fuel the soul from Italy. Now, that’s motivation!
Today’s totals: 9 miles walked, 2 without backpacks; 2 miles in a car thanks to our friend, Lance, and 5 miles in an Uber, thanks to Lavon. Money spent: Too much with an Air B&B, two meals, and wine. I’m going to leave it there.
In 2016, we hiked and camped at Glacier National Park. This was a part of our two month trip out west, we affectionally called it the #GoWestColemans trip. 2016 was the year hashtags became trendy and since we name every trip, it was a great way to embrace the trend, haha. You can see the complete trip map, by clicking here.
We were apprehensive about camping and hiking Glacier National Park; the park is home to majestic wildlife and we had a lot to learn how about to share space with the animals. With a bit of research, asking questions of those who have gone before us, and a lot of preparation, we were ready. In this blog, I am going to share what we saw, how we prepared, our favorite hikes, and where we camped.
Below are photos of the wildlife we witnessed at Glacier National Park. We were lucky enough to hear about a family of moose eating in a lake very close to the Many Glacier Campground Store so we wandered off to see them. I had about 50+ photos on my phone similar to what you see below. We watched the moose graze in the lake for hours and it was the most fascinating scene we have ever witnessed.
The many animals we witnessed at Glacier National Park
We spent a day hiking the Highline Trail and we heard that if you don’t see wildlife, you are doing something wrong. We saw the mountain goat in the lower-left photo within the first 5 minutes and the only other animal we saw the entire day was the marmot in the lower right photo. The bighorn sheep (top right) posed for their photo-op in the parking lot at the end of our day. I am sure a lot of animals had human sightings but they really are not interested in being noticed.
The only time we saw a grizzly bear was when we were driving, the photo in the lower middle. We were prepared with our bear bells and bear spray…most of the time. You should have a bear bell and spray on you at all times when you are in Glacier National Park because you never want to surprise a grizzly bear. We made a mistake. We walked from the campground to the hotel for an afternoon break. This is a 1/2 mile walk and honestly, we weren’t hiking so we didn’t think about our bear bells or spray. Once we arrived at the hotel we saw several park police where we had just walked. A grizzly bear was sighted on our trail. We were lucky he wasn’t interested in us and we didn’t startle him, we didn’t even see him. However, I sang loudly to Brian the entire walk back. My rendition of 99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall had me laughing, but Brian may have been just shaking his head at me. The moral to the story: always carry a bear bell and spray in Glacier National Park.
Can you see my motion sickness patch? Going To The Sun Road was rough!
There is something majestic and romantic at Glacier National Park. You are surrounded by mountains, glaciers, lakes, and waterfalls. Everything around you feels massive and perfect. We were certainly caught in the magic of the park. I wish we would have allowed more time here. The park is enormous and you need to spend time on one side of the park and then move to the other side. We camped at Many Glacier Campground but I wish we would have also camped at Fish Creek Campground so we could have spent time on that end of the park. We came into the park from the south so we were able to drive much of it and visit the Apgar Visitor Center; however, we spent most of our time in the Logan Pass Visitor Center and Many Glacier Hotel/Campground area. Just to give you an idea of how large the park is, it took us about 75 minutes to drive from our campground to the Logan Pass Visitor Center.
Brian mourning the decline of the glaciers
I would be remiss if I didn’t talk about the ever-changing glaciers. There was an exhibition at Many Glacier Hotel where they showed photos of what the glaciers looked like and recreated the same photos with how the glaciers look now. You can read about the Repeat Photography Project by clicking here. Climate change becomes extremely real when you see the glaciers in person. Fortunately, there is a lot we can do if we are willing to be a part of the change. You can read about how the glaciers are changing by clicking here.
Our two favorite hikes were the Grinnell Glacier hike and the Highline Trail hike. The photos above are from both hikes. You can only access Grinnell Glacier by boat out of the Many Glacier Hotel, pictured below. The Grinnell Glacier hike includes a lake, waterfalls on your trail, mountains all around you, and glaciers that you can walk on (in 2016). We saw bighorn sheep on the trail, one even led the hike for a bit (with a good distance between us).
The Highline Trail is fantastic because you are high above the Going to the Sun Road but you can still see the tiny cars below. You can make this a one-way day hike if you park your car at The Loop on Going to the Sun Road, take the shuttle to the Logan Pass Visitor Center, hike the Highline Trail, take a break at the Granite Park Chalet, and then walk back down to your car. Be warned, this is a much tougher hike than it may seem. It looks relatively flat but there are some elevation challenges, there is an option to hike a seemingly innocent out and back to Hidden Lake which is very steep, and the walk down from the chalet is no joke! It is a lot of steep down and hard on your knees. However, the hike is worth it, you just need to be prepared.
Many Glacier Red Bus, Hotel, and the Grinnel Glacier Boat Transportation
If you can even spend one night or one afternoon at the Many Glacier Hotel, we highly recommend it. The hotel has the charm of days gone by, but plenty of amenities. The sunset (above right) is one not to miss! We stayed at the campground. If you want a reservation at this campground, be ready to make it the day the 6-month window opens. This campground sells out quick in the summer. The walk-up campsites had a wait of about 10+ vehicles by 5 a.m. every day while we were there. That is not how we wanted to spend our time, but many people made it work.
The REI Kingdom 8 with Garage
In 2016, we were still tent camping. We camped in luxury though, in the REI Kingdom 8. We had the added garage which we used for bike storage and when it rained we could put our chairs in there and relax (see photo below). We lived in this tent for 2 months that summer so a bit of luxury was nice. We slept on an air mattress on a cot and it was extremely comfortable, you can get one by clicking here. We also had a heated mattress pad on it for those higher elevation campgrounds, which you can find by clicking here. Finally, our clothes were all tucked under our bed in under the bed storage tubs. We had four tubs total, one each for clothes, one for shoes, and one for hiking gear. The tubs stacked neatly in the back of our Honda Pilot. We also had a tub for camping gear (see above).
When you’re camping in a place like Glacier National Park it is imperative that all of your “smellies” are kept in your car. This included our shower house stuff (shampoo, deodorant, etc.), our cooking gear, food, and our cooler. The tent was a smelly-free zone as to not attract the animals, big or small.
Hiking and camping at Glacier National Park is an absolute must and we look forward to going back to this park because there is so much more to see and do there. It is not hard to prepare and stay safe at this park, just to remember the basics:
Be bear aware: Always have a bear bell on you, carry bear spray, never hike or even walk alone, and make plenty of noise.
Keep smellies secure, in containers in your car.
Carry food, Gatorade, and more water than you think you need, no matter how short your hike.
Bring layers when you hike, the weather can change quickly.
Practice the habits of Leave No Trace, even an apple core is not appropriate to leave on the trail.
If you have been to Glacier, tell us what you loved! What else can we tell you about Glacier? If this blog helped you, give us a thumbs up. Heck, if you made it this far, give us a thumbs up. 🙂
Happy hiking, until next time!
★ 25 years guiding★ 48 U.S. states★ 10 countries★ 3,000+ Camino miles
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.