Hiking the Via Francigena Day 4 & 5: Our Highest Pass

If I complain about any other climb, let me please remember this day. Oh, the climbing, all day long.

I kept repeating all day, “if it doesn’t challenge you, it doesn’t change you.” I’m searching for change on this pilgrimage. I don’t know completely what change, but I’m sure it will reveal itself when it’s time.

Climbing up, up, and up

The one thing I know about pilgrimage is whatever you think you’re searching for, most likely, isn’t the thing that will be revealed. I could list the changes I want to make, but I think it’s better to wait for enlightenment.

Honestly, the climbing wasn’t that bad except in a few places. The last 2 miles were the hardest of the day. Climbing is typically more mentally tough than physically. Your calves get a nice stretch all day and gravity isn’t pulling you down like on the downhills.

Our shadows with buttercups

Fortunately the Alps are covered in wildflowers and that kept us quite distracted. When we led hiking groups and the hike us particularly challenging, many often hear me say, “Suck it up, buttercup!” Today I heard them all saying it back to me with every buttercup I passed by.

The biggest challenge we faced today was hunger. Last night we didn’t have much of a dinner because there was only one place open in Bourg Saint-Pierre. We didn’t grab any breakfast or lunch to go. Therefore, to climb this mountain we had the equivalent of gas station muffins and the protein bars we brought from home. We were absolutely famished when we got to the top.

When you’re on pilgrimage you’re always a bit stinky, hungry, and tired. I’m thankful it wasn’t hot while we were climbing. Tomorrow we live to hike again! May there be food options a plenty.

Walked from Orsiéres to Bourg Saint Pierre – 14.71 km. YouTube video from our walk!

  • Lodging at St. Peter’s House – 50 franks (cash only)

Walked from Bourg Saint-Pierre to Grand Saint Bernard Pass – 12.5 km. YouTube video from our walk!

  • Room & Board at the Hospice – 150 franks

The Via Francigena Day 2: A Typical Day

The day started with breakfast with the abbot at the Abbey of Saint Maurice. I mean, a private breakfast, how cool is that? We shared stories, asked each other a lot of questions with a few language limitations. He tried to talk politics, we steered the conversation away and he left it alone. We received a blessing and we were on our way. Ok, so that’s not your typical day. Haha

The abbot on the far right and the priest who served us breakfast

A typical day to us means manageable walking, no injury, tolerable weather, hand washing our clothes, and positive attitudes. We had them all today except the washing machine which is a rare gem to find. Oh, and I finally got a good night’s sleep. I’m hoping for two nights in a row of good sleep. Let’s pray!

Today’s walk had a bit of uphill but only to mentally prepare us for what’s to come. We don’t have any injury – yet – but unfortunately I have a bit of shin splint pain. I am working through all of my prevention techniques, please hope it helps. We have a huge mountain pass to get through. We had all of the “Camino classics today” from the sound of cowbells in a pasture of sheep, adorable villages, waterfalls, water fountains of plenty, and a bit of rain. Make sure you are following our YouTube channel for a full video and TikTok for small 1-2 minute clips of the day.

All of the gear gets tested today from camera gear, rain coats, and our umbrellas that only weigh 6.8 ounces! Check out their website

Look – we have all of our gear! Our umbrellas, hiking sticks, and pocket knives arrived by airport courier at midnight last night. Thank goodness Brian was able to wake up to receive the call that the courier was outside of the abbey otherwise we wouldn’t have gotten the package.

I love the animals we see along the way. Today we had llamas, horses, sheep, and lambs who were so tiny! But today was extra special because we saw the St. Bernard dogs. These dogs were rescue dogs only a short time ago and now they are part of a foundation working as therapy dogs. I have been looking forward to today for awhile!

One of the dozen St. Bernard therapy dogs we met at Barry Land, more on our YouTube channel

To take things easy on my shins we just went to Barry Land and then the grocery store for a bit of food to eat in our room tonight. It’s only 8:30 p.m. but I am sure I will be asleep soon. The mountains all around us are quite intimidating and we both need our strength.

Tonight’s dinner thanks to the grocery store across the street from our hotel

It’s nice to have such a typical day because it gives a good memory for when we’re having a bad day. We know they’re coming, but that’s like life. Good days vs. bad days is all a matter of mindset. I focus on the typical so when it’s atypical can keep the day in perspective.

Check out the YouTube video!

Stats from today:

  • Walked from Saint-Maurice to Martigny – 17 km
  • Lodging – Hotel Du Stand 74.50 franks
  • Barry Land Tour – 16 franks

VF Day 1: Jet Lag, Eminent Rain, and Walking

I should be asleep right now. It’s 1:30 a.m. There’s rain coming in at 11:00 a.m. so we have to start walking early. I definitely should be asleep. Unfortunately my body is still adjusting to the 6 hour time zone change and I’m restless with anticipation of the pilgrimage we’re embarking on.

I try to be productive with my time. I start by reading the book I have downloaded on my phone because if I’m genuinely tired that usually does the trick. If that doesn’t work, I play the most boring game I have on my phone, solitaire. It’s the modern equivalent of counting sheep. When neither of those work, I blog. So here I am, it’s 2 a.m.

Hopefully this won’t happen too often. Sheer exhaustion from the walking should allow me to sleep well. However, I’m a post-menopausal woman which means sleep doesn’t always come swiftly.

The morning comes and we are ready for breakfast at 7:00 a.m. I think I had about 3 1/2-4 hours of sleep. We enjoy our first pilgrim breakfast in Switzerland. I had yogurt with granola and a cappuccino. Brian had cereal with milk, yogurt, and a cappuccino. There was bread, meat, and cheese that we packed up for today’s snack.

We have a short 12 km walk and we picked the flat route. A pilgrimage is what you make of it. We are in the first leg of a marathon. The goal is Rome. The goal is also that we make it to Rome healthy, no lasting damage to our bodies, and we have a long way to go.

It’s a beautiful day. We’re on the official VF route for about 6 of the 12 km, a gorgeous bike path for all of the walk. I am thrilled today is easy because we have some extremely challenging days ahead to get over the Grand St. Bernard Pass of the Swiss Alps.

A rest break

We arrive at the Abbey of St. Maurice a little before noon. Wow, that was quick! Fortunately, they allow us to check in. We take advantage of how we feel and tour the Abbey. It is stunning. Check our YouTube channel for videos as we will share a bit about the Abbey in our video.

Then comes the wait. It’s mid-afternoon and everything closes for a type of siesta. Fortunately the bar is open and it has wi-fi so we enjoy a glass while we catch up on a bit of necessary work.

It’s decision time. The restaurant opens at 1800 (6 p.m.) which is the same time as mass. Mass is all in Latin and French. The decision is made because we just heard from the Geneva airport, our bag was found and they will be delivering it tonight between 8-10 p.m. Sounds like we need to go to mass and then head to dinner so we will still be awake when the delivery driver arrives.

The mass was interesting, a lot of Gregorian chanting. We didn’t understand much but wow was is beautiful to listen to. No pilgrim blessing as we sometimes experience.

The Abbey of Saint-Maurice

Dinner was pizza. It was good meal but I know we’re going to have a lot of pizza.

Tomorrow we’ll have breakfast with, hopefully, the sarcastic Father who doesn’t speak English but showed us to our room. I’m also hoping for a blessing. We need it. We start a small climb up today, then we have 3 days of intense climbing. It’s also supposed to rain for the next 3 days. Please lift a prayer.

By the way, our hiking poles/umbrellas arrived by a courier from the airport at midnight. At least we have them. if you haven’t already, make sure you check out our YouTube channel because we’ll will have a lot more details and stunning video of our walk.

Check out the video on YouTube!

Stats for today:

  • Walked from Aigle to Saint-Maurice – 12 km
  • Lodging at the Abbey of Saint-Maurice – 60 franks
  • Abbey Tour – 24 franks

It was Supposed to be an Easy Flight…

Have you ever heard of such a thing? Apparently, it’s nonexistent. We’re walking the Via Francigena this summer and we spent much of our 2021-2022 planning this upcoming adventure.

In planning for our flight, we did all the right things. We monitored flights on Hopper, snatched them up when they were exactly what we wanted, at the most acceptable price, and watched the flight every day for months to make sure nothing changed.

But, of course, the flight changed. Our easy, international flight with one layover turned into a moderately easy flight with two layovers. Back to refreshing the app daily for months to make sure nothing else changed. We pivoted, no problem.

72 hours before our flight leaves Mother Nature brews up a big storm on the East Coast. Flights are delayed everywhere. Our flight changed again, back to one layover leaving out of a different airport. We pivot, no problem.

Our travel day arrives and we’re giddy with excitement. So giddy, I could honestly puke. That unsettled feeling in my stomach was a warning sign, I just didn’t know it yet.

Our son arrives at our house a bit early and we’re on our way to the airport. It’s an hour drive on the highway, no problem. Until the traffic comes to a complete stop. It’s an accident and the phone says it’s a 90 minute delay. Our son does a u-turn and we’re on back roads all the way. We arrive at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Our son pivots.

We stroll through security. What? It was frighteningly easy! I jumped with excitement, it was a sight, you should have seen it. Hallelujah! Europe, here we come! We’ve been pivoting and this is our reward.

We’re at our gate, backpacks resting on our backs, and we’re all smiles. Then we hear, “due to weather in Newark, your flight is delayed by 30 minutes.” No worries, that leaves us with 90 minutes after we land before our next flight leaves. The plane starts to board, we’re at the nose of the plane about to step on when we hear, “turn around! Everyone, turn around! We’re delayed for 90 minutes!” Say, what? That was all of the wiggle room we had left! How does one pivot from that?

We get back to the terminal and immediately call customer service. I’m on hold for 45 minutes because nobody is at the gate to help. I finally get someone and he says, “I’m sorry, all the flights are full.” I plead, I want to pivot but I’m getting exhausted. We’re going to miss our connection by minutes. The true nature of my unsettled stomach is starting to make sense. He says he’ll hit refresh until he finds something. Alas, he thinks he has success but it’s time to board the plane. Should we get on? I don’t know what to do. I’m on hold. The gate agent says, “make a decision!” We get on the plane.

We decide to figure out our pivot move in Newark. Heck, we hadn’t even missed our connection yet. The plane sits on the tarmac for 20 minutes. We’re definitely missing the connection now. No problem, we convince ourselves, it’s all going to be ok.

When we land the gate agent tells us to go to customer service. We swiftly head over there. We see a ton of flights to Europe on the big board, as long as we get across the pond it will all be ok.

We get to customer service and the line is easily two hours long. While in line, I get on the phone to call customer service, and Brian starts a text conversation with them. I am the first one to get help, I explain the situation. She begins the search. She tells me there is nothing. But the big board shows a plethora of flights, please refresh. I have pivoted back to pleading.

An hour passes, and we are still in line. We beg, “please, there’s a flight leaving soon for Paris. I am sure we can get a connection, just get us on that flight.” Despite my request, she pursues an entirely different flight. She’s refreshing her screen. She wants us to go to Frankfort, Germany. Ok, well, it’s over the pond but neither one of us downloaded German on our Google Translate app. Whatever just get us on a plane.

We get disconnected. Are you kidding me? 90 minutes on the phone, a possible confirmed flight, and we get disconnected. She calls me back, but she can’t hear me. She calls me back again, I can’t hear her. We are so close to the front of the line where a human stands facing all of these displaced passengers. I refresh the airline’s app on my phone. She has us on a flight to Frankfort with a connection to Geneva. There’s hope that we’ll make it and make our Lake Geneva ferry ride. We get out of the 2 hour customer service line and speed walk to the gate.

It’s a mad house! We don’t have boarding passes and there is no way we’re going to get help at our gate. The flight is delayed. We go to the gate next to ours. It’s the Paris flight, she’s locking the doors. She smiles, “How can I help you?” We tell her the situation, our newest delay, our newest missed connection. She says, I kid you not, “Oh, there was plenty of room on this flight, if only you were a few minutes earlier.” If only, if only.

I am disappointed but remain calm because I know it’s the only thing that will get us through this situation. She sends us back to the madhouse. We wait in another line. My ultra cool husband that never gets mad is starting to snap. We calm each other down. We get to the front of the new line and they have no idea how to help. Oh, and only one computer of three is working. The flight is further delayed and it’s obvious we’re going to miss our connection, again. But if we can just get over the pond, if we can just be in Europe, everything will be ok. A good pivot is needed.

We’re on the plane. I am texting with customer service about our connection. The flight we’re sitting on is delayed further because of an unruly passenger who’s getting escorted off of the plane. I would rather him get escorted off now than cause more trouble later. Thank goodness the flight crew still has the ability to pivot.

I’m on a text hold while I wait for a customer service agent. 20 minutes later, someone is finally texting me. I explain the problem, again. She says there are no options. I plead, she refreshes her screen. You know the drill now.

Thank goodness for free wi-fi on the plane within the app because it took two hours but we’re confirmed on yet another plane. Unfortunately, we have a 4 hour layover when we land in Frankfort and another layover in Zurich, Switzerland before ultimately making it to Geneva. We will continue to pivot and I am confident at this point, we’ll make it.

Brian and I watch a movie, sip on our complimentary wine, and drift off into sleep. It’s an 8 hour flight, we will feel refreshed soon and be able to handle whatever happens when we land.

There’s some turbulence, not the best sleep, but we’re managing. Then comes the intercom, you have heard this one in the movies, “Is there a doctor on board the plane? Is there a doctor on the plane?” I bolt awake. No, I’m not a doctor but maybe this is all a theatrical dream. This could not be actually happening. I don’t know what happened to the person who needed a doctor, I pray whoever it remains ok and there was a doctor on the plane. There are 290 people on here, I have to think this person is ok. When we landed an ambulance and fire truck was waiting while the person was escorted off the plane.

It’s at the point of being startled out of my mediocre slumber where this blog post begins to take shape. I wasn’t going to write about our flight to Geneva. It was supposed to be an easy flight. Meanwhile, Brian holds my hand. He’s glad I didn’t need medical help and he drifts back into his uneasy slumber. Me? I type this all out before my brain can no longer process what’s happened.

We arrive in Geneva and you would hope this drama would be over but alas something else has to happen, you know that by now. We made it but our luggage was not so lucky. Fortunately, we have everything we need on our backs; however, our hiking sticks, umbrellas, pocket knives, and a few larger toiletries did not arrive. Hopefully, they will arrive at our destination tomorrow.

Ultimately the journey is more important than the destination. We had a good time, we practiced our chill skills, and we master our ability to pivot. The more we travel the better we are at expecting the unexpected and learning to calmly work through whatever comes our way. I wonder what lessons this pilgrimage will teach us.

Check out our travel video on YouTube!

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles