Brian told me that my last blog on the lows of pilgrimage was not the happiest blog I’d ever written. Haha! You can read it, if you dare, by clicking here.
It was real. My emotions were quite raw and I was not feeling the best about this pilgrimage. I promised myself to write like I am only talking to myself and I did because I need to remember those emotions. But I also need to remember the good feelings.
I wanted to quit, but of course, I would never let myself quit. It’s not who I am. But by allowing myself to settle into those raw, ugly emotions, it reminded me to look at the other side of this pilgrimage. So let’s do just that – look at the bright side of life (whistle along if you know the reference)!
I love pilgrimage for many reasons. The first and most important is the simplistic nature of it. When we are traveling by car or RV so much can go wrong, and has gone wrong in our experience. Just look at our RV video vlogs on YouTube. For this trek I needed 2 outfits, a raincoat, and good shoes. When does the average person live on that for 2½ months. Pilgrimage is simple.
It’s way more than simplicity, pilgrimage is about giving yourself the space to just go for a long walk and think about whatever you want. I love to think about my goals for the new school year, to develop personal goals, to consider how I want my relationships to look, and of course, I love to think about where I want to go next. Brian and I get into some outstanding conversations about how we see our future. Pilgrimage gives us the space to think.
A pilgrim statue in Montefiascone
When do you ever get your spouse’s undivided attention for this many hours in a day and this many days in a row? Um, never! But, while on pilgrimage, we have each other’s undivided attention and it is the best thing in the world for a relationship. Pilgrimage helps us grow closer together.
The sheep herder was sitting on a rock in shade, probably laughing at us
We have seen most of the United States but only as tourists. While we are on pilgrimage, we are not tourists. We are welcomed into people’s homes and their places of worship. We see small villages that a tourist would never even know to visit. We are living and walking amongst the farmers and sheep herders as they go about their daily life. We are only collecting memories and photos, there is no room for luxuries. Pilgrimage gives us the opportunity to experience a new culture.
The relationships that are born from pilgrimage are like no other. I guess the only comparison I have is the friends we meet when we are camping, maybe that’s why we are drawn to camping. When you spend days upon days walking with someone new, you get to experience who they really are vs. the face they normally portray to the world. Pilgrimage creates a deep level of intimacy with those you meet.
The Via Francigena cannot be compared to other pilgrimages that we have completed. Nor should it be. We knew this was going to be different. It has fulfilled what I love about pilgrimage. And the food, oh my gosh, we love the food. Speaking of, it’s about time for dinner. And you know I don’t want to be late!
Thanks for following along. I hope you have enjoyed my reflections while we walking the Via Francigena. If there something you want me to talk about, you know how to reach me! Please share my blogs if you think they would help others.
Ciao! Ciao!
Walking stats from to Bolsena to Montefiascone – 15.3 km
Lodging at Palazzo Frigo – €90
Walking stats from Montefiascone to Viterbo – 18.3 km
Lodging at Viterbo B&B – €70 (includes a small discount for pilgrims, if you book directly with them)
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
I didn’t know my body could be this tired. Even though I see new muscles every day, I am tired. Besides how exhausted I feel, what has surprised me the most on this pilgrimage is a roller coaster of emotions. Put your seat belt on because I am going to talk about the tough times.
I expected it to be tough. I expected it to challenge me. I didn’t expect to be so worn out at this stage of the pilgrimage. Being that we are going into the final week, I expected to be more energized.
Every photo will include us squinting in the sun
I think I was hoping that by this point there would be more pilgrims to chat it up with every evening. I was hoping for more little villages throughout the day. I was hoping to feel something more that would energize me for the home stretch.
The heat is tough on us both. It makes every pilgrim push a little harder to be done walking before noon. Then we deal with accommodations that won’t let us check in until 2:00 or 3:00 p.m. So we wait, in the heat, before we can find relief. If you are lucky enough to find a room with air conditioning, you better pray it works well. Many places we have paid extra to stay at because we wanted the air conditioning which unfortunately has either not worked at all or they set limits to how cool it can be. Seriously, limits on air conditioning, that’s a new one to us.
The lack of new pilgrims has been disappointing. We hoped to have made connections with many others by now. We had hoped for a nice “pilgrim family” but there just haven’t been that many pilgrims. Of course, we expected it could happen because of our pace and our rest days, but it’s still tough.
Then there is the walk. The days are full of walking in the full sun. This is the best farmer’s tan we have ever had! Haha! The heat is extremely intense. We are lucky if there is one village along the way and even more lucky if there is a bar/cafe open. We had heard many places are closed on either Sunday or Monday so we always plan our day before we leave the village we are in. However, what we’ve experienced is that a place could be closed any day of the week.
On our walk from Radicofani to Acquapendente there was one village, Centeno, where we could stop for food. However, it was Saturday and the only place in town was closed on Saturday’s. I really struggle with the lack of pilgrim stops along the way.
Working by the pool since the hotel has no power
We have been looking forward to our final rest day in Bolsena. We booked a “nice” hotel with a pool, wi-fi, and air conditioning. You’ll never believe what has happened since we arrived. The first room they put us in, a ceiling tile fell because water was leaking from the air conditioning unit. Fortunately we had just finished washing our clothes and showering. They moved us to a new room. Overnight the power went out which meant no air conditioning, no phones being charged, no wifi, and a limited breakfast. They teased us with eggs and bacon for breakfast but not without power.
I guess this summer is about learning to pivot because it seems to be the theme, see my earlier blog. We’ve had to adjust our expectations, learn to be ok with less than we wanted, and pivot when things don’t go as planned. I’m not saying it’s easy but I guess it’s something we needed to learn.
Now we enter the home stretch. My main motivation going forward is that we finish what we start. It’s the way we raised our children and something we feel is important. The tough moments help us grow. They nourish our soul and stretch our adventurous spirit.
We will walk into Vatican City in 7 days. I don’t know what our attitude will be like, except that we will be thrilled with what we have accomplished. My prayer is the next 7 days have services along the way, the heat isn’t quite so intense, and we meet a few pilgrims to connect with along the way. But if that doesn’t happen, we will continue to pivot because ultimately, we will finish what we started. This pilgrimage is full of memories already, I am sure we laugh about that summer we spent walking into the sun.
Walking stats from Sienna to Ponte d’Arbia – 25.21 km
Lodging at the Centro Cultural Center – donation
Walking stats from Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia – 11.39 km, with a bus for 14.8 km
Lodging at Ai Portali B&B – €100
Walking stats from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani – 16.82 km, with a bus for 16.81 km
Lodging at Casa del Ciliegio – €66
Walking stats from Radicofani to Acquapendente – 19.63 km, with a taxi for 3.5 km
Lodging at IL Borgo Ristorante Pizzeria Camere – €60
Walking stats from Acquapendente to Bolsena – 18.8 km (we did some road walking to shorten the day)
Two nights of lodging at Hotel Holiday Sul Lul Lago – €296 (too much, I know! But it had a pool! 🙌🏼)
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
The routine is natural to us, it’s both easy and uncomplicated. We wake up between 5:30-6 a.m. and are walking just as soon as we get out the door. Ideally there’s a bar/caffé between 5-8 km into the walk for a breakfast stop. If I have to wait until 10km, I’m cranky and if there’s no food along the way I’m…let’s not talk about it. We can usually find something. However, sometimes we can only find food once a day. This trail is not like the Camino de Santiago where there’s food about every 5-7 km, sometimes the food on this trail is quite scarce.
Marcello and his pilgrim rest stop in La Villa
Yesterday, while walking to Siena there was only one stop for food for our 20 km walk. It was a roadside stand with a great guy, Marcello, who created this food stand in front of his house. Marcello and his cake and cappuccino were a huge blessing. He only accepts donations.
Once we finish the walk, usually between noon – 2 p.m., the routine continues. This part reminds me of RVing when we arrive at a new campground. Everyone needs to leave us alone while we back up the rig and get it set up. Similarly, when we arrive at our accommodation for the night, we can’t get distracted by stores, wine, food, or a festival which was the case in Monteriggioni.
Looking back at the walled city of Monteriggioni
When we check into a new place, we show our passports, pay for the night so we don’t have to worry about it in the morning, learn how to use the keys, and understand what’s expected while we’re there. Once that’s done the next step is critical unless we’re hungry or there’s a festival like in Monteriggioni. In case you’re not sure yet, the festival really tried to distract us and throw off our routine. Wait until that YouTube video is out, wow!
Once we’re settled into our room it’s time to hand wash today’s clothes so they have plenty of time to dry and grab a shower before anyone else has to smell us. At that point we are free to wander around the town, go to the church, peek in the shops (though nothing can be purchased unless they can ship it home), and of course, find more food.
The goal is to be in bed by 9 p.m. so we can do it all again, unless there’s a festival outside your window. I’m all for a good distraction, you know that, but right now I’m in a pilgrim zone as we attempt to finish the last two weeks strong. The festival in Monteriggioni was a nice distraction in the walled village with only two streets but the main stage was right outside of our unair-conditioned room and it went on until well after midnight. That is tough on a pilgrim.
Once we got to Siena we were both tired from the late night but the distractions were everywhere and so were the tourists. Just getting to our accommodation meant dancing around tourists who randomly stop in the middle of the street for a photo of anything. I want the photos too but not with my backpack on. And if you bump into me, I will leave sweat in your clothes.
I will admit, tourists are exhausting. I’m thankful I don’t live in a tourist town. Deciding to take a rest day in a tourist town isn’t for every pilgrim. I get it. There’s so much to do but what we need to do is recuperate and rest our feet.
Our rest day regimen includes: Sleep in, wander around until lunch, take a nap, work some/watch Netflix, grab dinner, and get to bed at a reasonable time. However, in a tourist town that means we can pick only a few things to see or we will wear ourselves out!
Inside the basilica – you’ll have to wait until the video comes out for all of the footage!
Siena is no exception but we managed it successfully! The city guide brochure is 27 pages long and has the city broken up into 3 areas. 😳 We left our room about 9:15 a.m. and did our best wandering until fresh pizza was calling our name. After lunch we took a 3 hour nap. Oh my gosh, that was the best part of my day! Haha!
Of course, since we’re accustomed to the late dinner, we had our la passa giata (evening stroll) this evening around the Piazza del Campo and followed our noses to a good meal. Our wallets paid the price for the lack of planning but it was worth it for the vibe. We have a 25 km walk tomorrow and it’s going to be 92°f/33°c tomorrow so no sleeping in for us!
This has been our routine for 45 days. Yes, 45 days! (Note: We’ve been on pilgrimage for 45 days but the title reflects our walking day count to follow our YouTube videos.) It feels natural to us to the point where it will be strange when we’re not walking. But that thought brings me to tears and it’s a blog for another day. For now I will focus on the pleasure of our final 12 days of walking. Rome will be here too soon.
Ciao! Ciao!
Walking stats from San Gimignano to Monteriggioni included 12 km of walking and 15 km by taxi
Lodging at Castello Casa per ferie Maria Assunta with a private room – €74
Walking stats from Monteriggioni to Sienna – 20.74 km
Lodging for 2 nights in a tourist town at La Terrazza Sul Campo-Rooming house – €226
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
It is amazing what a change will do for the soul. We experience changes all the time from a new week, beautiful sunset, shift in the weather, a refurbished home, a new pet, or even new neighbors. Whatever the change, it’s all around us, happening even when we don’t notice it.
Change is good for the soul and I believe we all need bigger changes from time to time. Because Brian and I live in the Midwest, we experience change all the time in the seasons and as teachers we experience change at the start of each new semester. Maybe that makes us more aware of change or maybe that makes us need change more? Maybe it helps us be balanced? I don’t know and it doesn’t really matter. What I do know is how much I love change.
After a month of walking, I was in need of change. I was seriously in need of it. I am not alone in that need for change, other pilgrims have said they are looking for it too. Change doesn’t have to be some big metaphor for life, sometimes a change in scenery will do just fine. Other times, seeing and chatting with other pilgrims is enough change.
This is our longest pilgrimage, specifically walking on one trail. We’ve walked/biked other trails but there were always more types of change and more pilgrims. This trail has moments where change is obvious like going from Switzerland to Italy, from the Po Valley to the Apennine Mountains, and now we’re in Tuscany.
At this point, I needed more than just a scenery change. I know, it’s Tuscany, what more could I possibly need!? I can’t explain. But of course, just like it always happens on pilgrimage, you get what you need which was confirmation enough for me.
Just holding up the tower like every other tourist
Leaving the trail for 24 hours to go to Pisa was a risk. Would we be distracted by tourist life? Would we be able to just hop back on the trail? Would the change be what I actually needed? Would I just be done.
It was the perfect amount of change. Pisa is a small tourist town. I couldn’t imagine going to Rome and then coming back to try to appreciate Pisa the way we did. I’m surprisingly more excited about Rome and the rest of our walk because of going to Pisa. Maybe it was imagining what I’ll buy when we are tourists, maybe it’s wandering around without my backpack, or maybe it was just the distraction I needed.
Because we didn’t plan a day to Pisa, we sacrificed the walk from Altopascio to San Miniato. We got back on the trail shortly after San Miniato to walk to Gambassi Terme. That all goes back to my last blog about owning the exceptions. I have zero regrets.
It’s moments like this that add to the memories
When we got to Gambassi Terme we checked into the Ostello Sigerico. There were 10 other pilgrims in the ostello (aka – albergue or hostel)! That’s the most pilgrims we’ve been around at one time the entire trip! Change is so very good!!
We left for San Gimignano this morning and it was an epic day! Not only was it a shorter day but there were pilgrims o’ plenty on the trail. We took a million photos. The weather was outstanding. We smelled the pine, cypress, and olive trees all day. We even went a bit crazy and stopped at a winery at 10 a.m. with 7km still to go on our walk! The wine was so good we had a case shipped home!
We only have 14 days left to walk to Rome. I know we’ll continue to see more pilgrims. The scenery will continue to shift. We have a lot of days ahead we’re looking forward to. I know our energy will dip some but I anticipate the emotions I will feel is sadness because it’s coming to an end along with great anticipation to see Rome!
I can’t believe it’s all happening! Change is good! ❤️
Subscribe to our Travel/City Guide playlist on YouTube so you will be notified when the Pisa video is out, just click here.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video of our time from Lucca to Gambassi Terme.
Walking stats from Altopascio to San Miniato. 0 on the Via Francigena but we walked 10 km in Pisa. 🙌🏼
Walking stats from San Miniato to Gambassi Termi 10 km
Lodging at Ostello Sigerico €40 plus dinner at €14 a person
Walking stats from Gambassi Termi to San Gimignano 15 km
Lodging at A La Casa Dei Potenti – €75
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Besides the incessant heat, our greatest struggle is decided if we should rest on a rest day or seeing what’s all around us in whatever city/village we are in.
We have to decide, is it important to have a rest day in a small village with nothing to see or stay in a medium village with a bit of life but not too much so you don’t wear yourself? Or do you just rest when the body says it’s time? Everyone is different. I think ultimately the body will tell you what you can and cannot do.
Our dream rest day is a medium sized village, with a lively (but not too lively) piazza near us, a few interesting things to wander and see, but not too much or we won’t rest.
There is one more critical piece to a perfect rest day – the accommodation. We have had all types on this trek, from the absolute most uncomfortable, stinky, hot, and nowhere to work accommodations to the magical little place we have here in Lucca. The room is small but it has all of the essentials, air conditioning, a decent bed, nice size shower, and a gorgeous courtyard.
Working and resting on a rest day
It was like our bodies said, “enough” and they called a time out. We just took a rest day in Marina di Massa. However, we were on the beach in the sun all day like tourists and our accommodation was the worst we have had the entire trip.
Here in Lucca, we did what we do best when our bodies feel they way they did coming in. We wandered around the piazzas near us and visited a couple of churches, but that’s all. Last night we didn’t even go back out for dinner. This was not how we saw our time in Lucca but alas it’s what we needed.
A rest day is completely different from being a tourist. When you are a tourist, you walk a lot of kilometers to see as much as you can of a town before you leave. We will have plenty of time for tourism after we make it to Rome.
Have you ever come home from a tourist vacation only to feel utterly exhausted? This is the feeling we try to avoid because our walking days are exhausting enough.
Then there are exceptions, like a beach, because it sounds utterly wonderful and relaxing. I have no regrets about that day, it was magical despite the accommodation and feeling exhausted the next day.
Life is full of exceptions and we need to embrace them. It’s a big part of why we are not purist trail hikers. We tried that and it wasn’t as much fun. We are on a long adventure and the days of waking lots of kilometers is not always fun. It’s hot on the trail in the summer. The trail is extremely tough at times and the days are long. We are making memories of all types, including a few we are creating when we make exceptions.
For the first time while on a pilgrimage we fully own our choices and will not be bound by what others think we should or should not do, where we should go or not go. They are our memories to create and it feels outstanding.
We will have to come back to be tourists in Lucca someday, along with other villages we have made note of for the future.
The exceptions will continue again the day after tomorrow when we leave the trail for a day and a half to visit Pisa. The reviews of Pisa are mixed but there’s that famous leaning tower thing, you know, and it has to be seen. Haha! If we don’t go, it’s a town we may not come back to see and the town everyone will ask if we visited. Alas, we’re going to be tourists for a day.
It does mean losing a day on the Via Francigena but we are looking forward to the distraction. After Pisa, it will be time to buckle down and finish the last few weeks of this trail. Rome is calling and we are excited to tour it!
Take the time to enjoy the cappuccino
If you take anything from this blog, please remember your life is yours to live. Be happy with your path, your choices, and your exceptions.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from our walk from Sarzana to Camaiore.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from Camaiore to Lucca!
Walking stats from Massa di Marina to Camaiore – 11.5 km with a bus for 14 km
Lodging at Ostello del Pellegrino – €40
Walking stats from Camaiore to Lucca – 16 km with a bus for 9 km
Lodging at il Cortile di Elisa for two nights – €144
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Gear – Gear – Gear! Let’s talk gear. It’s not my favorite subject to write about but I love to read what others carry in their backpacks, so alas, I need to talk about it too! Haha!
Skip to the end for the list of items and links!
Watch the video on YouTube to see what we’re talking about!
I don’t like talking about it because everyone seems to be an expert. I am not an expert, nor are most people. Though we have had quite a bit of experience at finessing the gear we carry on any trail. We have been day hiking for 15 years, we have backpacked on the Appalachian Trail and other trails, and this is our 3 pilgrimage. We each have some pieces of gear that work superbly and we continue to use, we have some pieces of gear that are right for some types of trails but not others, then we have gear that continues to change as our needs change and the gear improves.
A pilgrim statue on the Via Francigena. He looks like his pack is too heavy or his day has been too long
My backpack is 38 liters. This is my second pilgrimage with it. On our first pilgrimage, I carried a 48 liter pack and it was too big. This one works perfectly for me. Brian carries a 48 liter pack and it’s his third pilgrimage with it. He has never used the brain of the pack so it’s obviously a bit lighter weight/less storage. He loves his pack. Unfortunately it is starting to really show it’s age so he may need to reach out to Osprey before our next trek. While walking on this type of pilgrimage, these are the backpacks we carry but these packs are also great for a 2-4 day backpacking trip.
While walking our 3rd pilgrimage, now on the Via Francigena, I feel like my gear is pretty spot on. I have a few things I would change, but overall, after walking 30 of our 50 days, my pack feels pretty darn good. When it comes to Brian’s pack, well, I think he carries too much but he’s happy so I’m happy. See, everyone has an opinion about gear. However, I think that’s where others should leave their opinions. If you have not gathered yet, people seriously love to analyze gear in every hiking/walking circle we are a part of. It’s an exhausting topic. If someone is happy, let them be, that’s my philosophy. If you want to read about what we carry and a bit of why with pros/cons, continue reading. If you want a summary of what we are carrying now with links to our gear, skip to the end. You can also view our gear and hear us talk about it on our YouTube video.
We are just over halfway through this pilgrimage and it was time to give even the backpack a bath. Ewww…
When it comes to clothes, we are minimalistic. We have one outfit we are wearing and one outfit being hand washed and hanging on a line to dry. Brian does carry one extra shirt that’s a t-shirt. It’s a shirt we can both wear if needed, he likes the back up. I know we going shopping when we get to Rome, so it doesn’t bother us at all to wear the same two outfits. Our clothes are made of tech gear which drys fast, wicks away moisture, and is lightweight.
My pants are from REI. They roll up into capris, they stretch, and the waistband adjusts as (hopefully) I get a bit smaller while backpacking. I love pants because sometimes it’s cool in the evenings, I can hike in them, they are great for churches that require my knees being covered, and they are lightweight. By the way, we are surrounded by the most amazing food, I doubt I am getting smaller. Oh well!
I also have a pair of skorts from Tail which is a golf brand. This is new for me on this Camino. In the past, I have worn leggings and legging shorts. I actually really love my Tail skort. There are lots of options for skorts in the hiking gear world. My challenge was (1) I am a bigger girl and I like my skorts a bit longer and (2) I wanted something that was cute. They are a bit heavier with the thick waistband but it’s actually worked perfectly as a layer between me, my fanny pack, and my backpack. I did have the back pockets removed and sewn closed because they had front pockets and that saved a bit of weight. A big win all around.
My shirts are also a Tail brand and I love them! I have one that is sleeveless and one that is short sleeves. They are made of polyester and spandex. They wash and dry fast, don’t wrinkle, and I like how they look. That’s a trifecta if you ask me! Brian wears button up shirts from Eddie Bauer and Columbia. He loves the button up shirt but hasn’t been thrilled with the patterns. It’s hard to find something you will still like wearing after 50 days!
Top photo: Via Francigena in 2022; Bottom photo: Camino Frances in 2017
Brian wears two shorts, one is a pair of zip off pants and the other is shorts. Both have big pockets, made of tech gear, and he loves them. One pair is from Eddie Bauer and the other he found on Amazon. There is a summary with links to below.
Undergarments are the same, wash and wear. The first two pilgrimages I wore sports bras that had to be put on over the head, it was awful because I was often so sweaty and sticky from the heat, they rolled up. A bra should not be a two person job. Now I wear a Under Armour zip up sports bra and a regular underwire in the evenings. I like the balance of the two. Sports bras are the most comfortable to wear all day and all night, for me. I wear basic Bali underwear, Brian wears Jockey. They have worked for us for many years. For both of us, our underwear dries the fastest of everything. TMI but important for hikers: I like hiking with panty liners because I think they help with freshness.
When it comes to socks, Brian doesn’t wear any because he hikes in Chacos. I have tried all the different socks from very expensive to the opposite. I have worn double layer socks, toe socks, thin running socks with vaseline to prevent friction, and compression socks. This year I have wool socks and I absolutely love them. I have had one small blister and it was not a big deal to manage. The wool socks take a bit longer to dry but it has not been an issue.
The only other clothing gear we have is our Marmot rain coats. They double as our only long sleeve layer since we sent ahead a few things, I will summarize those items shortly. The rain coats have zippers under the arms for ventilation. They are lightweight and fold up in their own pocket. Some people like ponchos but we prefer rain coats because we can wear them with or without our backpacks. We have rain covers for our packs and that works well.
Since we are spending the summer walking into the sun we decided to bring hats and sun umbrellas (weighing in at only 6.8 oz each). The umbrellas were great when we were walking in heavy rain, even hail one day. We have used them on extremely hot, sunny days when there is no breeze. They don’t work well with a breeze because it stops the air flow. They also don’t work well if you are walking up a steep hill because they limit your view from that angle. I am not sure I would bring it again but it definitely has helped some.
After clothes, we have toiletries. We picked up both of our toiletry kits from REI before our first Camino and we are still using them. Mine unzips, unfolds, and can hang up. Brian has an expandable zippered bag. They are very lightweight, a couple of ounces at best. We share what we can (toothpaste, shaving cream, comb) and carry medium to small bottles where we can’t/won’t share (shampoo, conditioner, soap, toothbrushes, razors, hair ties). See our video for more on that topic.
Most important piece of gear – your shoes!
Shoes are another hot topic. Before this pilgrimage, I desperately wanted to change my shoes out to something lighter weight. Over a year of preparing for this trip, I tried out at least 40 pairs of “these are perfect for me” shoes upon the advice of other hikers. This is where “everyone is different” comes in. I wish I could have a pair of hiking shoes designed for my feet but until that day comes, I will stick with the shoes that have worked. I wear a pair of Merrell’s (link below). For Brian, this is his third pilgrimage hiking in just Chaco’s. He manages cracked heels with vaseline or lotion and a foot scrubber. He hasn’t had any issues and loves hiking in them.
When it comes to other things we carry, this is all about personal needs and preferences. I carry salt sticks because we are hiking in extreme heat most days, packets to add to our water that have electrolytes, and a small bottle of Advil/Aleve. Brian carries a couple of energy bars for an emergency and electrolyte drops. We both carry our own vitamins and medications. I also carry muscle relaxers for the tough days. We each use hiking poles and wouldn’t backpack with them.
We weren’t planning to tent camp, though you can and many do on this trail. Therefore, we didn’t bring a tent or sleeping bags. However, because of some of the ostellos/albergues/hostels we’re staying in, we needed something for the bed so we carry silk liners. They are perfect for the summer and lightweight. We each carry a lightweight towel because they are not provided in many of our accommodations. We have a small one for our wiping sweat all day, that I also use as a washcloth, and a larger one for drying. The towels we are carrying this time are different than before and we are happy with them.
Before I talk about our blogging/YouTube gear, I need to tell you about the gear we sent on to Rome. When we started this hike, we knew we wanted a few extra things for the cold/cooler weather of Switzerland. When that was over, and the roaring heat wave started, we needed to lighten our packs. Brian gave away his long sleeve shirt and gloves. He shipped ahead a fleece, ear plugs, eye cover, socks, and the legs to his pants. I shipped ahead my leggings, lightweight zip up jacket, eye cover, ear plugs, compression socks, and the vitamins I won’t need until we get to Rome. We used DHL and shipped our box to our accommodation in Rome with their permission. It was relatively easy but we did have the help of a local because you need a VAT number. We can apply for one but we didn’t have that time and we appreciate a local helping us out. When we get to Rome, we will buy suitcases for our shopping spree! Haha!
Finally, there is the gear we need so we can bring you all of this outstanding reporting from the trail. I am minimalistic, again. My phone case has a stand and I carry a portable Bluetooth keyboard. It’s a life saver to my fingers! Brian doesn’t carry much compared to many YouTubers. If you are watching our videos, you see his hiking poles with the phone on one and the GoPro on the other. He also carries an iPad, stand, a portable keyboard, and a small tripod that doubles as a selfie stick.
In 2019 we started our YouTube channel while walking the Camino Frances and Camino Portuguese. Brian only worked from his iPhone and wasn’t happy at all. I barely blogged because I hated not having a keyboard. For 2022, we are both thrilled with what we are carrying.
When we left the states, our backpacks were a bit heavier than we wanted but we knew (1) things like energy packets, electrolytes, and vitamins would lighten the load as they were consumed and (2) we hoped to ship ahead what we weren’t using. Without water, my backpack weighed 18 pounds and Brian’s weighed 22 pounds. I think each of our backpacks are down another 1 ½ to 2 pounds now. The only time my pack is heavy is at the start of a day when I need to carry more than 1 ½ liters of water. Fortunately, that doesn’t happen too often.
I hope you found this blog helpful when it comes to gear on a pilgrimage. Like I said at the start, it’s really about personal preference but I know the experiences of others helps to make good decisions about what you will carry. Here is a summary with links to where we got it.
Toiletries include chafing cream, face lotion with sunscreen, portable razor with case, shampoo I use for soap, washing hair and clothes, conditioner, tweezers, nail clippers, hair ties, allergy nose spray, eye drops, toothbrush head, toothpaste.
First aid kit: Compeed, band aids, antibacterial spray, Vaseline, alcohol wipes, scissors, needle and thread, moleskin, paper tape, cortizone cream, antacids, & Advil/Aleve
I am a water girl with a fire sign (Leo). I’m feisty like fire but love to be cooled off by the water. I love being by the water, despite how bored I get after one day of doing nothing at the beach.
I’ll take water in any form. On this pilgrimage every shower consists of me standing under the shower head imagining myself diving into a pool. That’s probably because I am just so dang hot every single day. Regardless, that’s my shower day dream and it gets me through the hot days. Haha!
I can’t talk much about our time walking from Cella to Aulla. It was hard, it was hot, and it was an incredible amount of climbing. I wasn’t as mentally prepared for it as I was the Grand St. Bernard Pass. I have a lot of respect for the mountains and if I lived by them they would be much more manageable. But I am from the flat lands of the Midwest. Here’s a video just to illustrate how tough it was for us.
The balance of water and mountains at its best
I definitely could live by the water with mountains behind me. I respect the balance of the two. I need to climb the mountains and feel like I am looking down on everything (the Leo sign again). I also need to sit by the water and listen to the sounds as I go about my day. I think that’s why, despite how tough the mountains have been, I love this area. The Apennine Mountains are around us and the Ligurian Sea is in front of us as we leave Sarzana and spend a rest day in Marina di Massa.
Marina di Massa looking up at the marble quarry where Michelangelo got marble for his statues
If I lived here, I would hike the mountains but not relentlessly every day for 20-30+ km, in the heat, with a 20 pound pack on my back. Sometimes you need a bit of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) to appreciate the hard work of the climb.
Marina di Massa is off of the Via Francigena path but it’s an easy detour. Make sure you are following our YouTube channel so you can see how easy this detour is for walkers.
It can be a pricey detour because Marina di Massa is a tourist town. However, we booked our room in February and secured a moderately ok little apartment for just under €100 a night. For this area, that is super reasonable. It’s also only 4 blocks from the sea.
To make this rest day complete, we will allow ourselves to get completely bored for a day. Haha! We rented an umbrella and beach chairs for only €36. I will be there as soon as they open in the morning. Let the dolce far niente commence.
This pilgrimage has been incredibly rewarding thus far. I can’t believe we have complete 30 of our 50 planned walking days. I have overcome some mental hurdles from past pilgrimages. My body has risen to the challenge of the daily grind – walk, hand wash clothes, find food, rehydrate, reflect on the day, go to bed early, get up early to beat the heat, and repeat. Every day is gets a bit easier.
However, our days of rest are critical to sustaining these final 20 days of walking. The heat of the summer is extremely challenging for everyone. I’m not trying to push myself beyond what I can do, I am just trying to get better with time. I am only in competition with myself. Thankfully, I do not have to prove anything to anyone. The reward: I am pleasantly surprised with how much our walking pace and walking stamina have improved. I can’t wait to see how we improve over the next 20 days.
My inner mermaid is calling to get out of this apartment and go walk the beach. Please continue to pray for our safe passage over the next 20 days. We have a lot to learn still. We have the challenging Tuscan hills in front of us with relentless ups and downs all day long.
We will continue to work on what our balanced life will look like when we get home. Balance is our greatest challenge. Let me know what your struggle is and I will add you to those I pray for on my walk.
Walking stats from Fronovo di Taro to Berseto- 18.24 km, took a taxi for 13.3 km
Lodging at La casa di Marty B&B – €66
Walking stats from Berseto to Pontremoli – 14.46 km, took a taxi for 13.8 km
Lodging at Ospitale San Lorenzo Martire – €40
Walking stats from Pontremoli to Aulla – sadly just 2.5 km to the train station. I had to work and we needed a place with good wi-fi so it was 29.6 km on the train.
Lodging at Demi Hotel – €100
Walking stats from Aulla to Sarzana – 18.76
Lodging at Casa Giangarè – €98
Walking stats from Sarzana to Massa di Marina – 19.55 km
Lodging at Rosa Tea Residence for two nights – €198
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
I’m always excited for new scenery, entering the Apennine Mountains was no exception after the long, flat days of the Po Valley. I’m like a kid who is excited but forgets every time how much work the mountains can be to hike.
I can’t talk more about a balanced life yet (see last blog post). Right now, I feel like an amateur hiker again. I’m tired and I need a nap after the constant up and down of the day. The views have been good but the mileage between villages is long and the mileage of the stages is even longer. I’m trying to embrace the longer days and the climbs, it’s what I wanted, but it doesn’t mean I enjoy every moment of every day.
Yesterday we hiked on loose gravel with inclines both up and down at over a 50% grade at times. It was steep, wait until you see the YouTube video about it (it will be linked at the bottom when it’s out). We were having fun with it, laughing and joking a lot, until the third big hill and then the trail got silent. We were both exhausted, the elevation map didn’t look nearly as tough as the actual trail, and we were each having our own silent pissy fits.
Can see how steep this was?!
Then came the bees. They would not leave me alone, I was swinging my polls around like a mad woman. Next came the flies, crap, they were intense. I hated the entire world. And of course, because they haven’t left me alone in over in a week, there were the relentless knats. Gnats that looked like tornado tunnels passing by and through me. Why, oh why, did it have to be all three?
I couldn’t stop walking for fear they would land on me. It wasn’t enjoyable to stop and look around. I kept walking. I kept trying to outpace these treacherous beasts. I would have paid a lot of money for my hiking pole to turn into a fly swatter!
Deconstruction is the ultimate test of a true warrior!
Despite all of that, it was those stupid, relentless, swarms of insects that got me through a tough day. I’m not going to thank them, let’s not go that far. Brian didn’t have to pull out the bee sting kit so there’s that good news.
We accomplished another mountain pass, another goal, and for that I am thankful. We also surpassed our halfway mark of walking 50 total days on this trip. Tomorrow: We hike again, we climb again. That’s just the pilgrimage we’re on. Maybe in the end I will feel like the warrior I know I am deep inside.
Lodging – Fraternità Francescana di Betania – donation based, included lunch, dinner, and breakfast the next morning
Walking stats from Cella to Fronovo di Taro – 18.8 km
Lodging – La Vecchia Quercia Bed and Breakfast – €80
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Since you heard from me last we have walked 47.6 km, took a train for 31.5 km, and enjoyed a bit of rejuvenation. See our stats at the end of the blog. Can you feel the zen of a balanced life?
Brian and I have lived by the school calendar our entire lives. We don’t know anything different than the ebb and flow of intense times in the semester, holiday breaks, and summer vacation. For both of us, we went from being in school, to being college students, to working in academia.
To be fair, we have both worked in the “real world.” Brian dipped his toes in the life of labor for a few years during college. Me, on the other hand, I was a single mom raising a son. Not only did I did I dip my toes, I swam in the deep end of hard work for many years. At a point during my college career I was working 4 part time jobs while going to school full-time. When I graduated from college, starting my path in academia, I taught more than my required load and worked full-time every summer.
Me and the one who changed my life forever in 1991
My life as a single parent was a never-ending struggle of raising my son well, maximizing my time with him as much as possible, combined with trying to make enough money to pay the bills. I worked in the food industry, sold office supplies, sold windows, worked in a beef factory, sold Amway, ran my own consulting business, and taught wherever I could. The struggle was real and the vivid memories of it will never leave me.
Fast forward to the first summer I am married to someone on the typical teaching schedule. Mind you, I had been finding ways to make money for the 15 years I was a single mom so not working every day of the year was something I didn’t understand.
Our new blended family, 2008
It was 2008 and we on our first vacation together, Brian is playing in the pool with his son while I am grading papers because I am teaching a full load of summer school classes. I will never forget catching myself in a long stare at them and wondering, “What in the world are you doing, Michelle?!” I looked at Brian and said, “I just want you to know this the last summer I will ever work.” His reply? “Ok, good.”
Of course that’s his reply, he’s known a bit about the balance of work and play his entire life. I don’t want to downplay Brian’s contributions (he is reading this you know). My husband works tirelessly through the school year and his brain never stops even in the summer. He’s always thinking about what musical he’ll direct next, selecting music, designing sets, preparing a show choir theme, or working on the next music gig. Today, social media can feel like a second job but that’s another story for another day.
Once I began to pull back on how much I was working, the stress I was carrying started to lift. Once I got a glimpse of a balanced life, my researcher brain was all fired up. I needed to answer the question, “What does a truly balanced life look like and how can it be maintained?” Mind you, I was realizing that neither of us were balanced, yet.
I had taken a vacation. I took my son to Disney World, Washington DC, we tried camping, but all the time I worried. I wondered if he was happy, I worried about money, and I was stressed to “get it all in” before our bank account was empty and our time was up.
Vacations are a lot of work. Then there’s this philosophy of a “once in a lifetime” trip. It is too much pressure. It’s to imply that we won’t or can’t ever see something again so we have to see it all…NOW!
It’s hard to feel balanced when you are constantly shifting gears from work to hurry up and see it all. At some point, we have to put the car in park and be ok with seeing and doing nothing.
I am going to explore this idea of finding and maintaining a balanced life in the next few blogs as we cross through the Apennine mountains and then enter Tuscany. Leave a comment and let me know what you think a balanced life looks like or tell me how you find balance.
Our new view today!
For today, I am thrilled for the shift in view, the challenge of the mountains, and new scenery all around us. It’s almost time for dinner and I don’t want to miss it. I am a hungry pilgrim you know.
Check out our YouTube video from Corte Sant’Andrea to Fiorenzuola d’ Arda
Walking stats from Corte Sant’Andrea to Piacenza – 14.4 km
Lodging – Residenza Venturini – €81
Took a train from Piacenza to Fiorenzuola d’ Arda – 31 km
Lodging – Hotel Mathis – €86
Walking stats from Fiorenzuola d’ Arda to Fidenza – 16.1 km plus we took a train for the last 5km. Here’s that YouTube video.
Lodging – Hotel Astoria – €70
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
As we continue to meander through the Po Valley, I am constantly surprised by what the famous Camino magic brings our way.
Camino magic is a term we learned on our first pilgrimage. I don’t remember where specifically but probably on Dan Mullins Camino podcast. If you’ve never heard of it, you are missing out! Dan is an outstanding interviewer and the stories about the Camino are magical in and of themselves.
I believe in the power of Camino Magic. Whenever I doubt the magic will happen, it does, just like that. Oh my, has my doubt appeared more than once during this hot, flat, repetitive section of our pilgrimage.
Camino magic came when a bar appeared during a hot afternoon when I was out of water and starving. That happens more often than not.
Camino magic came when I was struggling with everyone speaking other languages around us for days. I was feeling extremely low, we walked up to a bar, and I heard a table full of people speaking English.
Camino magic came when we had been visiting a lot of churches but there were never people in any of them. Then we entered a church where music was playing, people were singing, and there was life all around me.
Camino magic came after we passed through multiple deserted villages when we walked into a village that wasn’t only filled people but it was market day!
Camino magic came again yesterday. We’ve seen very few pilgrims at all thus far. After 20 days of walking we haven’t shared a meal with any English speaking pilgrims. Yesterday, we stayed at the local church and there were 4 other pilgrims. We shared rooms, shared a drink before dinner, enjoyed a fabulous meal together, and there was plenty of great conversation I could understand. It was just the magic we needed.
Last night with our 4 new pilgrim friends
Finally, tonight we are staying in Cort Sant’Andrea, population 22. There is a restaurant in town so we skipped lunch to arrive early and beat the heat. Bad decision, the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays (today). This is where the key to the church hostel was located so we were quite surprised it would be closed today. We found a back door to the restaurant and when we walked in people were laughing and eating. I smiled so big because up until that point we had barely eaten. Unfortunately, the woman running the kitchen told us she was done serving food. I gently begged, “maybe just a panini?” She looked at my pathetic face and then her husband. They exchanged looks and she brought us both a sandwich. When he offered us water and a beer, we joyfully said yes! Finally, he offered us a little dessert. Life was ok again. Mind you, the others in the restaurant were being offered fresh fruit, coffee with liquor, and more. They must have been locals or family, with a population of 22 that is probably one in the same. I didn’t care, much, we were fed and spent €16.
The dinner we made tonight with the ingredients left for us by Giovanni who runs the hospice. We made spaghetti with fresh zucchini & garlic sautéed on the side
Camino magic isn’t about getting what you want, rather it’s about getting what you need. We’ve never gone to bed hungry, we’ve always had a bed to sleep in, we’ve experienced the kindness of strangers, and we hope to have a few lasting friendships before this experience is over.
Camino magic is ultimately experiencing faith. Faith in others, faith in yourself, faith that someone is watching out for you and guiding your way. In this case, it’s our way to Rome and I have faith we will arrive there well taken care of and with a bit more faith.
We got a little crazy in our video to Pavia. Hint: There’s a lot of singing going on! 🤦🏻♀️ Check out our video here!
Walking stats from Pavia to Santa Cristina e Bissone – 14 km
Lodging – Parrocchhia di Santa Cristina e Bissone – donation
Walking stats from Santa Cristina e Bissone to Corte Sant’Andrea – 23 km
Lodging – Hospice Ad Padum including a kitchen with what we needed to make dinner – donation
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
★ 25 years guiding★ 48 U.S. states★ 10 countries★ 3,000+ Camino miles
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.
