Right now my biggest struggle is food. There never seems to be enough of it. The Hospice we stayed at last night included breakfast. Unfortunately that breakfast was a few day old piece of bread with butter/jelly and tea. Neither one of us could finish our bread because it wasn’t sitting right. We planned to have “second breakfast” at our first town 5 kilometers into our walk. Unfortunately, maybe because it’s Sunday, nothing was open. We hiked on to the next town where we found a bar. At the bar we could have cappuccino, liquor, or packaged muffins. We skipped the liquor. For a moment, I was ok.
We planned to stop for lunch in Etroubles but it was down pouring rain, thundering, and at times we had hail, so we pushed on another 3 km to our destination for the day. We stopped at our accommodation to shower and put our bags down but nobody was home. We tuck our bags into a corner, walked down the big hill to the one restaurant in town. It’s sure to be open because there are a ton of cars.
We approach only to see a handwritten sign on the door, chiuso, closed. Noooo!!! I am starving! A gentleman comes to the door to tell us they are having a family reunion today, “maybe we can come back about 8 p.m. for dinner.” It’s 2 p.m. now. Since it’s a tiny village we ask about our accommodation. He tells us that our host is his brother, he will get him. Thankfully his brother drives us back up the hill, settles us in, and tells us about a restaurant at the last town back if we want food. It’s a 25 minute walk, one way. He made some joke about wine but I wasn’t willing to listen. I smile politely. I’m hungry and I don’t want to talk about it.
Let’s talk about our hiking day! You know the saying, “What goes up, must come down!” And boy did we climb down. We descended just over 1,200 meters (4,100 feet) in 15.4 kilometers.
The scenery was just as stunning with wildflowers in abundance. We even saw a mountain goat frolicking up the mountain. Check out our TikTok videos for about the same glimpse of him that we had!
The rain was intense but didn’t last long. All in all it was another spectacular day on pilgrimage. I just wish there was more food. Ok, I guess I want to talk about it again. We have completed a pilgrimage in Spain, the Camino de Santiago, and in Portugal, the Camino Portuguese. There was always plenty of food. By looking at me, I will survive without food for a day, probably more, but I am not as much fun to be around, just ask Brian. Haha.
It’s 6:30 p.m., Brian and I are distracting ourselves with writing/video editing, social media, anything but food conversations. The owner of our accommodation comes home. We settle up the bill, arrange a time for breakfast, and ask if his parents are open for dinner. He says yes! We arrive and there are 5 pilgrims already eating and laughing! What? We are late for dinner! I guess they know what time, “maybe 8 p.m.” is code for in Italian.
Finally, an outstanding dinner!
Alas, we have an outstanding meal of homemade pasta, pork and potatoes, salad, wine, tiramisu, and homemade grappa. A meal literally sent down from the heavens. I am no longer withering away, my belly is full. We will both sleep well tonight! It’s our biggest day of hiking yet tomorrow and are guaranteed a farm fresh breakfast. Tomorrow is going to be a good eating day, I just know it.
I know some of you want me to talk about the gluten issue and I will. I am just not ready to talk about it yet. In short, I am avoiding gluten when I can, taking preventative measures when I can’t. The bottom line is “wheat belly” or not, I have to eat. And yes, you can see in some of our videos when I have the unfortunate “wheat belly.”
If I complain about any other climb, let me please remember this day. Oh, the climbing, all day long.
I kept repeating all day, “if it doesn’t challenge you, it doesn’t change you.” I’m searching for change on this pilgrimage. I don’t know completely what change, but I’m sure it will reveal itself when it’s time.
Climbing up, up, and up
The one thing I know about pilgrimage is whatever you think you’re searching for, most likely, isn’t the thing that will be revealed. I could list the changes I want to make, but I think it’s better to wait for enlightenment.
Honestly, the climbing wasn’t that bad except in a few places. The last 2 miles were the hardest of the day. Climbing is typically more mentally tough than physically. Your calves get a nice stretch all day and gravity isn’t pulling you down like on the downhills.
Our shadows with buttercups
Fortunately the Alps are covered in wildflowers and that kept us quite distracted. When we led hiking groups and the hike us particularly challenging, many often hear me say, “Suck it up, buttercup!” Today I heard them all saying it back to me with every buttercup I passed by.
The biggest challenge we faced today was hunger. Last night we didn’t have much of a dinner because there was only one place open in Bourg Saint-Pierre. We didn’t grab any breakfast or lunch to go. Therefore, to climb this mountain we had the equivalent of gas station muffins and the protein bars we brought from home. We were absolutely famished when we got to the top.
When you’re on pilgrimage you’re always a bit stinky, hungry, and tired. I’m thankful it wasn’t hot while we were climbing. Tomorrow we live to hike again! May there be food options a plenty.
Somebody suggested I should let that thought sink in. I guess I hadn’t thought about until we were surrounded by mountains and the only way out is up and over. Wow, it’s sinking in.
I didn’t have a blog yesterday, I was having a rough day. It was raining, my shins were hurting, the terrain was challenging with rain, and we made the tough call to take the train to our evening destination. I struggle with feeling like I failed. I am going to leave my drive for perfection here in the Alps where perfect scenery is all around.
It ended up being a nice day despite us not walking. We had a fabulous room at the Hotel Terminus in Orsières. I spent much of the day with my feet up, ice on my shins, resting and reading. Taking a rest yesterday paid off substantially! Today my shins don’t hurt and I feel a lot better. I know it always pays off to take care of yourself but that doesn’t mean it’s easy to admit it and do it.
Managing shin splits
We did wander the small village of Orsières a bit, found a pharmacy, an outdoor/hiking gear store, and that was about it. If you need anything for the trek up to St. Bernard Pass, that is the last opportunity. We got a bit more Compeed, which is amazing stuff if you have a hot spot that has not turned to a blister yet. I swear by Compeed!
We enjoyed a nice dinner and when back to our rooms. A note about dinner though, we ordered a “half board” with our room reservation which is dinner and breakfast. However, unlike in Spain, wine is not included and – wow – was their wine expensive! Dinner included tap water, a small appetizer, main dish, and small dessert. Breakfast included breads, jellies, yogurt, ham, cheese, and coffee. Total cost for that half board without the wine was 156 franks! Yep, I was shocked too! It’s my fault, I should have asked how much the half board was and I would have known. Fortunately, our hotel room was only 40 franks for both of us at the pilgrim rate.
Let’s talk about today! I wish I capture this day to memory and never forget it’s beauty. We were rewarded abundantly for resting yesterday. Today was hard hiking but the beauty of the Alps is all around us. If you have seen pictures of the wildflower fields of the Alps, we spent the entire day walking through them. We wandered through a couple of villages, walked by the river all day, saw lots of cows with their traditional Swiss cowbells around their necks, a few piglets, endless wildflower fields, and mountains all around. I never want to forget this day.
Look at those Swiss cowbells
The hiking was challenging, we walked uphill most of the day. It was 14 km and 800 meters (2,264 feet) of elevation gain. It took us about 6 hours plus a nice lunch break in Liddes for pizza that was bigger than my plate. I wasn’t going to eat it all but… well, I did. Tomorrow’s climb is 12.4 km but we will gain 1062 meters (3,484 feet) of elevation. But that’s tomorrow’s problem.
Today’s hike on the left, tomorrow’s on the right
Tonight we have an interesting accommodation. We are staying in Maison St. Pierre in the town of Bourg-Saint-Pierre. It is/was a religious building of some sort, there is history everywhere. The fireplace is dated 1822. It’s a traditional “pilgrimage” accommodation with 4 rooms. They all have twin beds, one room has 8 beds. We picked a room with only 3 beds and since we’re the only people in the entire place, I bet we’ll have not only the room to ourselves but the entire Maison. What’s unfortunate is that the room is more expensive than last night with our private room/private bath accommodation. It’s all part of the experience, hopefully dinner will be cheaper. Update: it wasn’t. 😏
Tonight’s accommodation
We’ve quickly jumped back into our “pilgrimage” routine. We shower and hand wash our clothes immediately. We take time to check our feet, use the massage ball on them. This routine was challenging to work out during our first pilgrimage, but as this is our third, we just accept that is part of the adventure.
Next, we enjoy a bit of quiet time to blog/put a video together before we head out to find dinner. This blog and the video are important to us for capturing the experience. We hope it brings you joy, but most importantly, we want to be able to look back on what we’ve done. I mean, we’re hiking the Alps! Wowza, that’s pretty cool. I can’t wait to see what Tuscany brings us.
The goal is to walk to Rome on the Via Francigena. We pray our bodies stay healthy, our motivation stays strong, and our relationship flourishes even more along the way.
The day started with breakfast with the abbot at the Abbey of Saint Maurice. I mean, a private breakfast, how cool is that? We shared stories, asked each other a lot of questions with a few language limitations. He tried to talk politics, we steered the conversation away and he left it alone. We received a blessing and we were on our way. Ok, so that’s not your typical day. Haha
The abbot on the far right and the priest who served us breakfast
A typical day to us means manageable walking, no injury, tolerable weather, hand washing our clothes, and positive attitudes. We had them all today except the washing machine which is a rare gem to find. Oh, and I finally got a good night’s sleep. I’m hoping for two nights in a row of good sleep. Let’s pray!
Today’s walk had a bit of uphill but only to mentally prepare us for what’s to come. We don’t have any injury – yet – but unfortunately I have a bit of shin splint pain. I am working through all of my prevention techniques, please hope it helps. We have a huge mountain pass to get through. We had all of the “Camino classics today” from the sound of cowbells in a pasture of sheep, adorable villages, waterfalls, water fountains of plenty, and a bit of rain. Make sure you are following our YouTube channel for a full video and TikTok for small 1-2 minute clips of the day.
All of the gear gets tested today from camera gear, rain coats, and our umbrellas that only weigh 6.8 ounces! Check out their website
Look – we have all of our gear! Our umbrellas, hiking sticks, and pocket knives arrived by airport courier at midnight last night. Thank goodness Brian was able to wake up to receive the call that the courier was outside of the abbey otherwise we wouldn’t have gotten the package.
I love the animals we see along the way. Today we had llamas, horses, sheep, and lambs who were so tiny! But today was extra special because we saw the St. Bernard dogs. These dogs were rescue dogs only a short time ago and now they are part of a foundation working as therapy dogs. I have been looking forward to today for awhile!
One of the dozen St. Bernard therapy dogs we met at Barry Land, more on our YouTube channel
To take things easy on my shins we just went to Barry Land and then the grocery store for a bit of food to eat in our room tonight. It’s only 8:30 p.m. but I am sure I will be asleep soon. The mountains all around us are quite intimidating and we both need our strength.
Tonight’s dinner thanks to the grocery store across the street from our hotel
It’s nice to have such a typical day because it gives a good memory for when we’re having a bad day. We know they’re coming, but that’s like life. Good days vs. bad days is all a matter of mindset. I focus on the typical so when it’s atypical can keep the day in perspective.
I should be asleep right now. It’s 1:30 a.m. There’s rain coming in at 11:00 a.m. so we have to start walking early. I definitely should be asleep. Unfortunately my body is still adjusting to the 6 hour time zone change and I’m restless with anticipation of the pilgrimage we’re embarking on.
I try to be productive with my time. I start by reading the book I have downloaded on my phone because if I’m genuinely tired that usually does the trick. If that doesn’t work, I play the most boring game I have on my phone, solitaire. It’s the modern equivalent of counting sheep. When neither of those work, I blog. So here I am, it’s 2 a.m.
Hopefully this won’t happen too often. Sheer exhaustion from the walking should allow me to sleep well. However, I’m a post-menopausal woman which means sleep doesn’t always come swiftly.
The morning comes and we are ready for breakfast at 7:00 a.m. I think I had about 3 1/2-4 hours of sleep. We enjoy our first pilgrim breakfast in Switzerland. I had yogurt with granola and a cappuccino. Brian had cereal with milk, yogurt, and a cappuccino. There was bread, meat, and cheese that we packed up for today’s snack.
We have a short 12 km walk and we picked the flat route. A pilgrimage is what you make of it. We are in the first leg of a marathon. The goal is Rome. The goal is also that we make it to Rome healthy, no lasting damage to our bodies, and we have a long way to go.
It’s a beautiful day. We’re on the official VF route for about 6 of the 12 km, a gorgeous bike path for all of the walk. I am thrilled today is easy because we have some extremely challenging days ahead to get over the Grand St. Bernard Pass of the Swiss Alps.
A rest break
We arrive at the Abbey of St. Maurice a little before noon. Wow, that was quick! Fortunately, they allow us to check in. We take advantage of how we feel and tour the Abbey. It is stunning. Check our YouTube channel for videos as we will share a bit about the Abbey in our video.
Then comes the wait. It’s mid-afternoon and everything closes for a type of siesta. Fortunately the bar is open and it has wi-fi so we enjoy a glass while we catch up on a bit of necessary work.
It’s decision time. The restaurant opens at 1800 (6 p.m.) which is the same time as mass. Mass is all in Latin and French. The decision is made because we just heard from the Geneva airport, our bag was found and they will be delivering it tonight between 8-10 p.m. Sounds like we need to go to mass and then head to dinner so we will still be awake when the delivery driver arrives.
The mass was interesting, a lot of Gregorian chanting. We didn’t understand much but wow was is beautiful to listen to. No pilgrim blessing as we sometimes experience.
The Abbey of Saint-Maurice
Dinner was pizza. It was good meal but I know we’re going to have a lot of pizza.
Tomorrow we’ll have breakfast with, hopefully, the sarcastic Father who doesn’t speak English but showed us to our room. I’m also hoping for a blessing. We need it. We start a small climb up today, then we have 3 days of intense climbing. It’s also supposed to rain for the next 3 days. Please lift a prayer.
By the way, our hiking poles/umbrellas arrived by a courier from the airport at midnight. At least we have them. if you haven’t already, make sure you check out our YouTube channel because we’ll will have a lot more details and stunning video of our walk.
Have you ever heard of such a thing? Apparently, it’s nonexistent. We’re walking the Via Francigena this summer and we spent much of our 2021-2022 planning this upcoming adventure.
In planning for our flight, we did all the right things. We monitored flights on Hopper, snatched them up when they were exactly what we wanted, at the most acceptable price, and watched the flight every day for months to make sure nothing changed.
But, of course, the flight changed. Our easy, international flight with one layover turned into a moderately easy flight with two layovers. Back to refreshing the app daily for months to make sure nothing else changed. We pivoted, no problem.
72 hours before our flight leaves Mother Nature brews up a big storm on the East Coast. Flights are delayed everywhere. Our flight changed again, back to one layover leaving out of a different airport. We pivot, no problem.
Our travel day arrives and we’re giddy with excitement. So giddy, I could honestly puke. That unsettled feeling in my stomach was a warning sign, I just didn’t know it yet.
Our son arrives at our house a bit early and we’re on our way to the airport. It’s an hour drive on the highway, no problem. Until the traffic comes to a complete stop. It’s an accident and the phone says it’s a 90 minute delay. Our son does a u-turn and we’re on back roads all the way. We arrive at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Our son pivots.
We stroll through security. What? It was frighteningly easy! I jumped with excitement, it was a sight, you should have seen it. Hallelujah! Europe, here we come! We’ve been pivoting and this is our reward.
We’re at our gate, backpacks resting on our backs, and we’re all smiles. Then we hear, “due to weather in Newark, your flight is delayed by 30 minutes.” No worries, that leaves us with 90 minutes after we land before our next flight leaves. The plane starts to board, we’re at the nose of the plane about to step on when we hear, “turn around! Everyone, turn around! We’re delayed for 90 minutes!” Say, what? That was all of the wiggle room we had left! How does one pivot from that?
We get back to the terminal and immediately call customer service. I’m on hold for 45 minutes because nobody is at the gate to help. I finally get someone and he says, “I’m sorry, all the flights are full.” I plead, I want to pivot but I’m getting exhausted. We’re going to miss our connection by minutes. The true nature of my unsettled stomach is starting to make sense. He says he’ll hit refresh until he finds something. Alas, he thinks he has success but it’s time to board the plane. Should we get on? I don’t know what to do. I’m on hold. The gate agent says, “make a decision!” We get on the plane.
We decide to figure out our pivot move in Newark. Heck, we hadn’t even missed our connection yet. The plane sits on the tarmac for 20 minutes. We’re definitely missing the connection now. No problem, we convince ourselves, it’s all going to be ok.
When we land the gate agent tells us to go to customer service. We swiftly head over there. We see a ton of flights to Europe on the big board, as long as we get across the pond it will all be ok.
We get to customer service and the line is easily two hours long. While in line, I get on the phone to call customer service, and Brian starts a text conversation with them. I am the first one to get help, I explain the situation. She begins the search. She tells me there is nothing. But the big board shows a plethora of flights, please refresh. I have pivoted back to pleading.
An hour passes, and we are still in line. We beg, “please, there’s a flight leaving soon for Paris. I am sure we can get a connection, just get us on that flight.” Despite my request, she pursues an entirely different flight. She’s refreshing her screen. She wants us to go to Frankfort, Germany. Ok, well, it’s over the pond but neither one of us downloaded German on our Google Translate app. Whatever just get us on a plane.
We get disconnected. Are you kidding me? 90 minutes on the phone, a possible confirmed flight, and we get disconnected. She calls me back, but she can’t hear me. She calls me back again, I can’t hear her. We are so close to the front of the line where a human stands facing all of these displaced passengers. I refresh the airline’s app on my phone. She has us on a flight to Frankfort with a connection to Geneva. There’s hope that we’ll make it and make our Lake Geneva ferry ride. We get out of the 2 hour customer service line and speed walk to the gate.
It’s a mad house! We don’t have boarding passes and there is no way we’re going to get help at our gate. The flight is delayed. We go to the gate next to ours. It’s the Paris flight, she’s locking the doors. She smiles, “How can I help you?” We tell her the situation, our newest delay, our newest missed connection. She says, I kid you not, “Oh, there was plenty of room on this flight, if only you were a few minutes earlier.” If only, if only.
I am disappointed but remain calm because I know it’s the only thing that will get us through this situation. She sends us back to the madhouse. We wait in another line. My ultra cool husband that never gets mad is starting to snap. We calm each other down. We get to the front of the new line and they have no idea how to help. Oh, and only one computer of three is working. The flight is further delayed and it’s obvious we’re going to miss our connection, again. But if we can just get over the pond, if we can just be in Europe, everything will be ok. A good pivot is needed.
We’re on the plane. I am texting with customer service about our connection. The flight we’re sitting on is delayed further because of an unruly passenger who’s getting escorted off of the plane. I would rather him get escorted off now than cause more trouble later. Thank goodness the flight crew still has the ability to pivot.
I’m on a text hold while I wait for a customer service agent. 20 minutes later, someone is finally texting me. I explain the problem, again. She says there are no options. I plead, she refreshes her screen. You know the drill now.
Thank goodness for free wi-fi on the plane within the app because it took two hours but we’re confirmed on yet another plane. Unfortunately, we have a 4 hour layover when we land in Frankfort and another layover in Zurich, Switzerland before ultimately making it to Geneva. We will continue to pivot and I am confident at this point, we’ll make it.
Brian and I watch a movie, sip on our complimentary wine, and drift off into sleep. It’s an 8 hour flight, we will feel refreshed soon and be able to handle whatever happens when we land.
There’s some turbulence, not the best sleep, but we’re managing. Then comes the intercom, you have heard this one in the movies, “Is there a doctor on board the plane? Is there a doctor on the plane?” I bolt awake. No, I’m not a doctor but maybe this is all a theatrical dream. This could not be actually happening. I don’t know what happened to the person who needed a doctor, I pray whoever it remains ok and there was a doctor on the plane. There are 290 people on here, I have to think this person is ok. When we landed an ambulance and fire truck was waiting while the person was escorted off the plane.
It’s at the point of being startled out of my mediocre slumber where this blog post begins to take shape. I wasn’t going to write about our flight to Geneva. It was supposed to be an easy flight. Meanwhile, Brian holds my hand. He’s glad I didn’t need medical help and he drifts back into his uneasy slumber. Me? I type this all out before my brain can no longer process what’s happened.
We arrive in Geneva and you would hope this drama would be over but alas something else has to happen, you know that by now. We made it but our luggage was not so lucky. Fortunately, we have everything we need on our backs; however, our hiking sticks, umbrellas, pocket knives, and a few larger toiletries did not arrive. Hopefully, they will arrive at our destination tomorrow.
Ultimately the journey is more important than the destination. We had a good time, we practiced our chill skills, and we master our ability to pivot. The more we travel the better we are at expecting the unexpected and learning to calmly work through whatever comes our way. I wonder what lessons this pilgrimage will teach us.
Why did I bring that, why didn’t I pack a …, why didn’t I put things away differently. Let’s do this again! Haha
The analyzing of all of our gear began on the first day of walking and before the weekend is over we will have resupplied. Gear has been our top conversation this week from undergarments, to camera gear, to shoes, and everything in between. We knew it would be the top conversation but we didn’t know how intensely we would scrutinize our gear.
I’m sure it’s because we have the ability and time to make changes before we backpack the Via Francigena from Switzerland to Rome this summer. We know our hike will be more comfortable if we change out some of our gear for we go.
First change: Why in the world did I bring pajamas? I brought them because I thought I would wear them in the evenings and I would wear them to bed. However, to save weight (the ultimate goal), I should have just worn the extra outfit I brought. I should take the clothes I’m wearing, the clothes I wear when I’m washing the one outfit, an extra layer for rain/warmth, and that’s it. It was an amateur move on my part. Bottom line: Everything should serve multiple purposes.
Second change: Headwear options. I have 2 buffs, 2 bandannas, a couple rubber bands, and hair clips. Why? Oh my gosh, another amateur move on my part. One bandana will be great and one buff. I need a bandana for wiping sweat off my face throughout the day and a buff to keep my hair back when I want it down. However, I think I’m going to bring a microfiber cloth instead of a bandana that will serve as my washcloth for showers and wiping my face during the day. Again, saving weight and ensuring everything serves multiple purposes.
Third change: Shoes again. Through no fault of my own, this is still an issue for me. I have one foot that swells up a lot due to past injuries. I have tried almost 20 pairs of shoes and they all have one issue or another. For me, the Merrell Moab Vented shoes work best. When you’re long distance hiking you should wear shoes that are 1/2 to 1 full size larger because your feet will swell, I have tried both but I am still having blisters on my injured foot because of how much it swells. I think I am going to try a wide shoe to give my toes more wiggle room. I’m also trying a different compression sock for swelling. I may even end up wearing two different size shoes. Whatever makes my feet the most comfortable. We have 55 days until we leave so I pray I get this worked out. Walking with blisters, though we know how to treat them, is no fun.
Tending to my injured foot was a daily ritual
We’ll continue to make mistakes but I’m thankful for this training week. We haven’t done a long distance backpacking trip since the summer of 2019. You forget how heavy the pack feels at the end of the day. We needed that reminder so every item we bring is intentional and as light as possible. It’s not just what we bring but where we put it. The ibuprofen doesn’t do us any good deep in the backpack during the day when we need it, but it’s perfect in an easy to access part of the pack. Life lessons right there. 😆
Backpacking is a lesson in owning what you need, having it where you need it when you need it, and clutter will always weigh you down. That’s all I have for now. I’m going to kick my feet up and rest for a bit. Have questions? Comment below.
Loveland, Ohio, what a pretty little trail town with your quant shops, delicious restaurants, ample bathrooms, and plenty of rest benches. We love you so much we slept in, stuck around for an early lunch, Uber’d to our original lunch stop, and walked the remaining 7 of our 15 miles.
The weather overnight was ugly with heavy rain and winds. I didn’t sleep the best because I kept imagining us walking in that crud. We are having fun this week but we would have more fun if we had less wind. Honestly, even the cold isn’t bad but the wind, oh the the wind.
I teach my Interpersonal Communication students that perfectionism doesn’t exist in this world and I follow by example. We have no desire to push our bodies beyond repair just to be perfect. If we had more time, more flexibility, we would absolutely skip the Uber, just walk a half-day today and the rest of it tomorrow. But we don’t have more time, lodging feels scarce, and this is the reality.
Below are 3 more signs we saw from the trail with a description of each one including the future plans for the Little Miami Scenic Trail thanks to Ohio Riverway.org. I know we will walk this path again and we are excited to see it grow.
Left to right (1) The blue hashes you may have seen before but never realized what they were. This sign, in particular, represents the Buckeye Trail and tells the hiker to make a right. (2) A bit of history on the Little Miami Railroad. (3) The most exciting sign that outlines the future of the trails in this area!
Tomorrow is our last day of walking. I have mixed feelings because my body needs more training but I am over the cold, windy weather. The trip got a bit more pricey than we planned so I am glad it’s wrapping up for our wallets sake. Work is going to get intense over the next 7 weeks with Brian’s musical in 3 weeks and wrapping up the school year for both of us. Time between now and our trip is going to fly by. I’m thankful for this week.
As of today we leave for the Via Francigena in 57 days. Mentally, we are ready. Physically, well nobody is ever ready for pushing your body that hard for that long, but we will press on and have a blast. We have a few changes to make regarding our gear which we’ll talk about on our final YouTube video for this adventure.
Today’s totals: 7 miles walked, 8 miles in an Uber. Accommodation: The Mariemont Inn, a stunning place to stay (see today’s YouTube video for a tour). We had a $40 Air B&B but they had to cancel on us so today’s budget was blown on this hotel alone. I’ll leave it there, again.
I really don’t want to tell you about our choices today but I am not going to worry about what you think. Our goal was 14.7 miles. We knew today was going to be tough for a couple of reasons.
First, as always, I am having foot issues again. UGH I am beyond irritated that I still have problems and my podiatrist will hear about it next week. This time it’s swelling on the foot I injured on our 2017 Camino and blisters on a couple of toes. Don’t get me started on shoes, I have tried them all and enough said on this issue. Next, it’s the 5th day in a row of massive training miles. We are exhausted. We thought a little bump this morning with our friend dropping us off 2 miles ahead of where we started would help, and it did, but that motivation didn’t last long.
By the time we got to our lunch stop after 7 miles of walking, we called it quits. I have no regrets. I took a nap, enjoyed wine, we walked a mile to dinner and a mile back. We walked 9 miles today. And, as a bonus, we had gorgeous weather to sit out and enjoy.
The Sycamore trees have been stunning all along & today the buttercups guided our way
Tomorrow will be our longest day yet at 15 miles. I am ok with calling an Uber. Having an escape plan makes everything a bit easier as we talk about in today’s YouTube video. I am excited about our lodging tomorrow but that’s for tomorrow’s blog post.
Today I will leave you with these photos from our dinner. We ate at a fabulous Italian restaurant with an impressive gluten free menu. It was as close to true Italian as we’re going to it. If you’re in Loveland, Ohio, gluten free or not, to to Rodi Italian Restaurant. Look at the photos and you’ll understand.
A dinner to fuel the soul from Italy. Now, that’s motivation!
Today’s totals: 9 miles walked, 2 without backpacks; 2 miles in a car thanks to our friend, Lance, and 5 miles in an Uber, thanks to Lavon. Money spent: Too much with an Air B&B, two meals, and wine. I’m going to leave it there.
I’m no longer having bad thoughts about Meteorologists or Mother Nature. I am embracing Wim Hof and his cold theories. Think about this – after a game athletes take ice baths. We’ve received a good ice bath every day of this trip thus far. Hallelujah! 🤨🤷🏻♀️
I am channeling Elsa as I sing, “the cold never bothered me away.” I am dreaming of the Great St. Bernard Pass in Switzerland, thinking about how we’re ready for that cold too! Today was a steady incline – all-flipping-long yet we only gained 689 feet of elevation. I hated all 689 feet of it so basically I’m screwed.
I know it’s all about mindset and I’m trying. Today was rough at 14.4 miles of the same view all day. My joy consisted of this “waterfall” below and a clean port-a-potty (sorry no photos). The restaurant we wanted to eat at was closed, the benches were few and far between, we laid down in muddy grass out of exhaustion, and we walked in silence focusing on putting one foot in front of another.
My waterfall and the rest of todays view
The day started and ended much better than the middle part for which we won’t speak of again. I will add that Brian has been instructed upon my passing to donate a bench in this section engraved, “because everyone needs to take a load off.”
A huge thanks to our hosts tonight. For the third night in a row people have opened their homes to us and we are thankful beyond words. Tonight our friends know us well. I’ll leave that right here.
They get our struggle
Todays total mileage: 14.4 miles. Total spent: $16 for Starbucks this morning mostly so we could watch Lily the dog enjoy a “pup cup” and to say thanks to Mary for hosting us last night. $120 to buy a our hosts, Amber & Lance and their kids, dinner (including a selfish pitcher of margaritas). $30 at Kroger for a couple necessities.
★ 25 years guiding★ 48 U.S. states★ 10 countries★ 3,000+ Camino miles
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.