Camino del Norte | Gernika to Bilbao | It’s Not a Holiday, It’s an Adventure | Day 6

As we chatted with so many pilgrims today while walking 20 kilometers and climbing over 500 meters (1600 feet), I’m amazed at how my legs are starting to feel. I don’t want to jinx it but I may be getting stronger. 

The mud was unforgiving

The climbs, the mud, the rocks, the ascents, and the descents were all treacherous today. The climbs were steep and the mud was deep. Brian’s feet were covered in mud and tennis shoes lost their cute factor today.

The pilgrim adventure

These two, desperately needed, rest days came just in time. Brian needs a haircut, our clothes need a washing machine, we both need massages, and our legs need a break from the climbs! 

Our first glimpse into Bilbao

We arrived in Bilbao today, a bustling city with a ton of character. I’m glad we have two days to explore because we need to go at a very slow pace. We didn’t see much today as we didn’t even wander beyond our hotel for dinner. 

The sign that told us where we were having dinner

As luck would have it outside of our hotel there was this sign and we knew we had to eat dinner there. Last year on our Camino Frances, our pilgrim friend Sean raved about these “Kevin Bacon” burgers that we had to try. So our “pilgrim family” joined Sean (and his amazing dad, David) for a Kevin Bacon. 

The Kevin Bacon is the burger in the back, I had the BB Queen on the gluten free bun

Seriously, it’s the best burger! If you ever find yourself at a Goiko burger joint, stop in! We need a Goiko in the United States! They even have outstanding mojitos and gluten free buns. The only thing missing tonight was our pilgrim family. 

Finding our Way

I hope another pilgrim family develops but for now we all have different end stops. We’ve enjoyed the company of ladies from Germany, two different couples from the United Kingdom, a couple from the Netherlands, and so many more but their adventure is ending now or they are pressing on because their journey ends in a few days. 

The horses are great company

Whether our relationships are long or short, we have enjoyed everyone we’ve met so far! I can’t believe we’ve only been walking for 5 days. Today a lovely conversation with a Statistics Professor from Germany got me through a big climb; it even made me feel like my legs are getting stronger. 

The village of Lezama where we chatted with a great couple from the Netherlands as we all waited for a bus into Bilbao

As my English friend said today, “this is not a holiday, it’s an adventure!” What an adventure it’s been so far! I can’t imagine what will happen over the next 30 days of walking until we arrive in Santiago. Yes – we still have 30 more walking days!!

What an adventure so far!

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Camino del Norte | Deba to Markina-Xemein to Gernika | Days 4-5

What started out as a good day, took a rough turn, but ended up being our best evening thus far!! Oh, this Camino del Norte, she remains a painstaking, action packed adventure. 

The view from our lodging

It started with a late breakfast which always stresses me out because that means we finish our walk later. We stayed at this Casa Rural that I thought would be pilgrim friendly but the prices were high and they didn’t start serving breakfast until 8:30 a.m. Most pilgrims like to be walking by 7-8 a.m., depending on the weather, sometimes earlier if it’s going to be really hot.

We left the ocean views today

The climb wasn’t too bad before our first stop for a snack but then we made the mistake of looking at Google maps. Our map did save us time, meters of climbing, and mileage but there was a cost. We had to walk through a closed fence that, fortunately, wasn’t locked and then we had to climb through some barbed wire. It felt like we walked through a private compound. There were at least 6 vicious-sounding dogs, thankfully they were chained up. Then there were, we will call them, deer blinds but some could call them guard towers. Fortunately nobody was around but we were thrilled to get the heck out of there!! But no, we weren’t about to turn back and climb down the hill only to climb up a different, bigger hill! Plus, if you know me at all, I have been told I can be intense. So, we were fine. 😆🫣

The route we went on was a bit easier according to the pilgrims we talked to in the evening but – yikes – it was intense!! No, there are no photos of the “compound” as we didn’t need evidence we were there.

We listened to the stream water most of the day

We walked about 15 kilometers on the blacktop which is brutal on the back, hips, and knees. But we only gained about 400 meters (1312 feet) of elevation, as opposed to the main route which gained almost 700 meters of elevation. It was a killer of a day! Brian hit rock bottom, I’m just thankful we both didn’t because I’m not sure we would have made it to our accommodation. We could still be on the side of the road. 

An area for pilgrims to visit, meditate, and just relax the afternoon away

But it was the most perfect evening! I can’t believe a day could have so many highs and lows but that’s the Camino. We stayed at this most wonderful Casa Rural (rural house that provides lodging). They did more than provide lodging! We had cocktails, a washing machine, perfect weather for clothes to be dried outside on the clothesline, and best of all, we had our first communal dinner! 

Plenty of places to dry your clothes

We spent the evening with our toes in the lush green grass, sipping cocktails, and talking to people from Germany, France, England, Switzerland, Scotland, Ireland, and the United States. We enjoyed the best meal with produce from the garden. It’s truly the biggest blessing of the Camino. Nights like that remind us why we love the spirit of the Camino! 

The sunrise from our lodging

We slept like babies in the most comfortable bed! We woke up to a delicious breakfast including gluten free bread and homemade jam. Seriously, I pray we have so many more nights like this one. 

The first climb of the day

Today’s walk was uneventful, no barbed wire. 😆 We followed the route. Though it was quite hilly we had lots of little villages to enjoy.

Unfortunately we had to climb down 7 flights of stairs today

We made the decision to bus ahead so we only walked 13 kilometers and took a bus for 12 kilometers. We needed the rest after yesterday. Tomorrow is going to be another big day of climbing so it’s time to nap. Bilbao will be here soon with 2 rest days. We’ve never needed them as much as we need them now. 

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Camino del Norte | Zarautz to Deba (and then some) | Day 3

The views continue to improve. I don’t know how long it will last so I’m trying to take it all in. Though this terrain has my knees and thighs screaming! 

An easy climb

Every kilometer takes a long time and every view takes my breath away or is that the climbing? I don’t know but I’m constantly exhausted. We decided to walk the Norte route because it was hard and had epic views. We’re not getting any younger so we need to check things like this off our bucket list while we still can do them. 

The way our walk started today

I can’t believe this morning started with an easy 5 kilometer walk along the ocean, it was amazing!! This was an optional route and I’m thrilled we took it! The sounds of the waves splashing on the rocks made the walk fly by!

This makes the climb worth it

Then we left the seaside to climb, and oh did we climb! We are just training because tomorrow’s climb is even more intense. I keep telling myself it will get easier but we’re from the flat lands of Ohio where a hill doesn’t even compare to this terrain. And honestly, I don’t mind the climb, my problem is how long it takes me. We’re getting into our accommodations much later than I like to arrive. Some nights our clothes don’t have enough time to dry (in part because we’re having to dry them inside because of the rain). 

The village of Zumaia

We did have to bus ahead a bit today because it was time to get the staples removed from my head and I had to get to a clinic before they closed. Click on this blog post if you don’t know what happened. My head is healing well. I still have headaches quite a bit. We’re taking 2 full rest days in Bilbao which I pray helps. I’m resting a lot when I can, daily naps are a blessing. 

Even the forest is lush

After I got my staples removed, we had about 3.5 kilometers left to walk and a massive climb at about 350 meters (or 1,148 feet). A tough climb especially at the end of the day. We’re staying past the village of Deba at a Casa Rural in the middle of nowhere but with an amazing view of the ocean while perched on a mountainside. 

From our bedroom window

The views are worth it. Tomorrow we’ll have a bit less of a climb, though it’s still going to be another tough day with about 450 more meters of climbing and about 600 meters of descent. 3 days until Bilbao, then 2 full days of rest. 🙌🏼 Maybe we’ll find a boat tour, unless Mother Nature keeps this rain around us.

Time will tell. I would not change a thing! ❤️

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Camino del Norte | San Sebastián to Zarautz | Day 2

Views like this all day

The views on this Camino don’t stop! Everywhere you look is a photo op!! I don’t have enough adjectives in my vocabulary to describe what we see, and of course, the photos don’t do it justice. 

Today we met a ton of pilgrims from all over the world. We met pilgrims from America, Australia, Italy, Switzerland, England, Finland, and lots of Canadians. It was great to engage with so many people. It – almost – made me think less about the climbs. 

I love it when the horses pose

This elevation gain, loss, and gain again is tough and we’re just getting started. My knees ache and the walking is slow. Hopefully our bodies will adjust to what we’re doing soon. 

But, oh my gosh, the villages are beautiful. The ocean is a massive delight to look at all day, sometimes up close and other times from a distance. The mountains are lush and bright green. And of course, there are plenty of animals to distract us. I swear Camino cattle are the most photographed in the world. 😆

The weather is improving but it’s still raining at least part of every day and it’s chilly. The cold doesn’t bother me but I could do without the rain. Fortunately the rain just adds to the vibrant colors around us. 

Only a couple of days until our next big city, Bilbao where we are taking two full rest days. Can I get a hallelujah?! 🙌🏼

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Camino del Norte | Irún to San Sebastián, Spain | Day 1

Have you ever gone on a walk or hike for views but been disappointed? This almost happened to us during our walk from Irún, Spain to San Sebastián. But when I’m on the Camino, nothing can kill my mood.

Views from day 1 leaving Irún

We usually prefer not to cover a lot of ground on the first day of the Camino, as it’s important to pace ourselves since we have 36 more days of walking ahead. However, we walked 14.5 miles for two reasons. First, we didn’t experience jet lag as we had already been in Europe for a week. Second, we knew we were going to have a rest day in San Sebastián, which is what we’re doing now as I lay here typing this blog. As much as I enjoy our adventures, I also love a good rest day with zero miles walked. 🥰

The weather tried hard to kill my mood yesterday. We decided to take the high road which was much steeper but the payoff was supposed to be the views. And we did have some amazing views…until the fog, wind, rain, and for a short time, hail moved in. Oh my gosh, we couldn’t see 10 feet in front of us. 

The fog before it rolled in even more

This happened to us in 2017 on the Camino Francés where the fog rolled in terribly as we climbed the Pyrenees hoping for views. It happens. We can’t let it get us down, we’re going to have plenty of days with amazing views. 

But what we did see was breathtaking! From the sea to the mountains, then there were horses, colts, cows, and of course wildflowers! 

An easy part of the trail

“They” say the Camino doesn’t give you what you want, rather it gives you what you need. I didn’t need the rain and hail but what it forced me to do was focus on my feet and I did need to watch every step because the terrain was treacherous. The trail was rocky and muddy, fortunately, it wasn’t too slippery but if I hadn’t been watching my step, I’d be dealing with another head injury (read more about that here).

Dinner (with gluten free bread) and Netflix

We made it to San Sebastián tired and sore. It was 6 pm before we got into our room! For reference, we like to arrive at our hotel by 1-2 pm to shower and grab lunch before siesta. Instead, we stopped at a market for this delicious spread. It was our version of “Netflix and chill” and we never left the room. We were exhausted!

The Village of Pasaia Gipuzkoa before the ferry ride

It’s a new day and we are in beautiful San Sebastián so it’s time to explore. Bye for now! 

If you haven’t had enough and you want to see our walk, check out our video from today’s walk.

https://youtu.be/SAJLkUrDiLs

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Arriving in Irún, Spain

We’ve arrived in Irún, Spain, in the northeast tip of Spain. It’s gorgeous here! I can feel the Camino energy all around me. We’re excited to start our Camino but what an adventure thus far. I’m starting the Camino a bit broken but don’t we all start that way?

We’d tried something new this year which was to enjoy a bit of holiday (vacation) time before we started our Camino. I’m not sure it was the best idea. You can read about that in a previous blog. In short, I cut my head open on a set of marble stairs. I have staples in my head and I had a terrible – just awful – hospital experience. 

What should we do?

What does that mean for our Camino? I’m not completely sure. I’ve been resting a lot the past couple of days. My head still hurts, there’s still bleeding. Tomorrow is a very challenging day with multiple, big climbs. The plan is to walk 5 kilometers to our first town, then assess again. I may decide to taxi to the next town, I may decide to try the climb. I’m tuned into my body and I’ll do my best to listen. 

The Camino is busy!! We’ve heard some pilgrims are struggling because they haven’t made advance reservations. If you’re walking the Camino del Norte, there are lots of options around here to stay but you would be wise to book in advance. We use the Wise Pilgrim app and the Cicerone guide book to make our decisions for lodging and route planning. We book everything in advance, don’t judge, it’s our Camino our way.

I’m glad we decided to start in Irún. It’s got everything we need, including tapas (fresh, warm appetizer bites) and café con leche (Spanish coffee). Of course there are grocery stores, pharmacies, bakeries, sporting goods stores, and even a gluten free bakery!!! 🙌🏼 These are all essentials on our Camino. 

We’ve hand washed our clothes, rested the afternoon away, and now it’s time to find an evening meal before we drift off for the night and our Camino truly begins. 

Warm goat cheese salad with bacon and pine nuts

When we entered our hotel in Irún, my daypack fell over and my shell broke. I’m truly starting this Camino broken in so many way. I pray for healing as we walk.

If you have questions about the Camino, this is our 6th one so we’ll be happy to answer them below. 

Europe is Calling!

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There’s nothing like your own chair

As I lounge in my comfy recliner thinking about the summer adventure we are embarking on today, I can’t believe this is my life. Maybe I am dreaming; if I am, I pray I don’t wake up. I always wanted to be a world traveler but didn’t think it was realistic. 26 years ago this August I was a young, single mom barely holding it together. I moved to Ohio with my 7-year-old son and our dog. I didn’t know anyone. I planned to be the best college professor I could be and when my son graduated from high school I would travel the world and teach abroad. 

I had lived in Ohio for 7 years when I met Brian on e-Harmony. Fortunately, he loved to travel and had taken a lot of choir trips with students to fulfill his wanderlust. I am thankful we have figured out how to continue our mutual love for travel and turned it into something meaningful for us both.

Every year I think, “We can’t top that trip!” yet somehow we do. This year it’s all about multiple destinations, flying around Europe exploring 3 countries. We will start in Paris, the city of love. I am sure I have over-romanticized it like every other American woman. I don’t care. We will see Paris as it prepares for the Olympics and then be back for a couple days during the Olympics. It’s going to be fantastic to watch the city show the world how good she can look.

 

 

The Camino del Norte route map

Next, we will spend about a month and a half walking the Camino del Norte. This will be an epic hike! We are walking along the northern coast of Spain but it won’t be an easy walk on the beach. Every day we will climb the Spanish rolling hills (some days it will feel like mountains). Daily epic views, yes, but a challenging walk.

After about 40-ish days of walking, we will travel to the Netherlands to explore this small country. The Netherlands is a special place because I am part Dutch; my maternal grandfather was born in the Netherlands. We are keeping the itinerary flexible so we can just relax and enjoy! As long as I see the Anne Frank house, the windmills, and the canals, I am happy! But did I mention they will also be having Carnival? Maybe it won’t be quiet but we’ll try to take it easy.

This epic adventure will wrap up back in Paris where the Olympics will be in full swing! It’s been 100 years since Paris hosted the Olympics. I can’t believe we will be there. I can’t believe this is my life. We are blessed and I don’t take that for granted. This trip may break the bank, so when we’re looking for second jobs you know why. Haha! Teachers for hire, anyone?

I plan to blog while we’re there. I want you to feel like you’re in Europe with us. It’s certainly easier to take you than it is my comfy recliner. I will sacrifice the chair to enjoy the rich history and romance of Europe. In the meantime, leave a comment below to tell me what you want to hear, see, etc. This is our trip. I am excited you’re going to take an adventure with us! 

Let’s get on that plane.

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Did the Via Francigena Break the Bank? A Pilgrim Budget and How we Plan Pilgrimage

A budget for any vacation/holiday is a personal topic. It’s scary to allow others to see how we chose to spend our money. We risk judgment and ridicule. However, the benefits of sharing go back to the theme of all my blogs which is to share all parts of our Camino experiences despite what others think. I am an open book and will remain that way. You’re welcome. ❤️

We have walked 3 pilgrimages, the Camino Frances, Camino Portuguese, and the Via Francigena from Switzerland to Rome. We found it was the cheapest to walk the Camino Frances and the most expensive was the Via Francigena. If you want to see our YouTube videos on our latest walk, the Via Francigena, please click here.

A typical bunkroom in Switzerland

With some exceptions, you can find lodging from as cheap as a donativo where you make a donation for a bed, typically in a shared bunk room, with a shared bathroom. Sometimes that accommodation has bedding but you usually need to bring your own. Occasionally your host will serve a communal dinner but it is expected that you would leave more money. A typical donation is anywhere from €10-20 per person.

On the Via Francigena, you can camp in many places if you have a tent but I don’t know much more than that because we have never made the decision to camp. I know it’s illegal to wild camp in Spain but I also have known those who do it from time to time. Again, not my area of expertise. 

The entrance of our donativo lodging in Cort St. Andrea

With all of the pilgrimages we have done, we use guidebooks. They include lodging suggestions ranging from a donativo, camping, churches, municipalities, and private lodgings. When creating our reservations we always start with the guidebooks and create a plan from there.

Speaking of a plan, that’s another factor – to plan your reservations ahead or not. Some people will reserve a night or two ahead, especially in the busy season. Some people will just wing it every day, letting their feet decide how far they will walk each day. Others, like us, plan out all of our reservations ahead of time. There is no right or wrong way to plan…or not. It’s up to you and your personal preference.

Why do we choose to plan every night in advance? It’s a great question, haha. I mean, what if there’s an injury? What if we just can’t walk that far? What if we meet people we really want to walk with but can’t because they are staying in different places? Life is full of “what ifs.” We have also experienced every one of those challenges.

On our Camino Portugues, I had a foot injury and we had to rent bikes for a few weeks to give my foot a break. This meant we didn’t bike very far every day because we had to stick to our lodging plan. We made a few changes along the way to have some longer days more suited for a bike but only with the refundable reservations.

We always have days when we just can’t walk as far as we planned. However, we aren’t purists so we are ok with grabbing a bus, train, or taxi. We have to walk during the hottest part of the year so there are always going to be challenges, heat or not honestly. Creating a plan works for us because we enjoy trip planning. We enjoy making a few decisions while walking a pilgrimage. We like looking forward to planned rest days in villages/cities we have developed an interest in during our planning. Finally, as a couple, it gives us one less thing to debate when we are hot, tired, and crabby. My philosophy is I can argue for free at home but when on vacation/holiday, I don’t want to argue. Haha! Plus, planning gives us something to think about when the school year is getting exhausting or the winter months are feeling long.

Knocking on the budget door!

But you came here for a budget talk. There are a lot of factors that go into a budget for anyone. We have a few basic expectations if possible: (1) A private room because it’s the summer when we are walking and it’s too hot to be in a room with others. Additionally, snoring and the noise of a shared room are not something we prefer. A good night’s sleep is critical. (2) A private bathroom is ideal but not required. A shared bathroom is ok from time to time if it saves us money but we really like a private bathroom. (3) We want shared experiences with other pilgrims so we look for accommodations for pilgrims with a communal dinner and then ask if they have private rooms. Many times they do if you ask early enough, as these tend to book up early. (4) Since we are walking in the heat of the summer we look for places with air conditioning from time to time and more often when we are experiencing excessive heat. These are the most expensive rooms but necessary for relief from the heat. I get terrible heat rash in the summer and only a cool night’s sleep brings me relief from it. (5) When we are booking a two-night stay we always look for a private room, with a private bathroom, with air conditioning. This is the ideal situation unless the air conditioning isn’t working but that’s another subject. 

The joys of a private room

I mentioned you can find rooms for €10-20 a person and in order to make our budget work we find rooms like this from time to time. Other rooms in accommodations for pilgrims can run us €35-50 total for both of us. A room from websites like Booking.com can run €50 to over €100, depending on the city. Of course, your bigger cities will have all types of accommodations for any budget.

For comparison, in 2017 on the Camino Frances, our budget averaged €50 a night but if we were to do it again we could do better to lower that budget. We didn’t stay in as many pilgrim accommodations as we could have then. We’ve learned a lot since 2017. Though with inflation, who knows for sure what our budget will be?

In 2019, on the Camino Portuguese, we walked the coastal route which is more expensive. Our budget averaged €65 a night. However, we struggled to find pilgrim accommodations on the coast. In retrospect, I think we could have done a better job and lowered that cost a bit.

In 2022, on the Via Francigena, we averaged €75 a night. Our cheapest nights were donativo’s at €20. We had a few pricey nights because we took rest days in Marina de Massa and on Lake Bolsena. But we have no regrets. This was our 15 wedding anniversary trip and our 50th birthday trip. It was all we dreamed about and more.

We didn’t spend money on laundry because we hand-washed our clothes every day. Our only other expense was the occasional pharmacy run for compeed or anti-inflammatory cream, food, and of course, wine.

Sometimes you just need Doritos and wine… in bed while your laundry is drying 😆

A food budget is extremely subjective. There is no way we can compare food budgets and be helpful. First, I am married to a foodie so getting him to pull back on trying every new dish is impossible. Second, we are wine lovers so there has to be a wine budget. And why not, it’s Italy!

We saved food money by utilizing any free breakfast food offered even if it didn’t appeal to us. We packed them as snacks or enjoyed them immediately. We limited our espresso budget and only enjoyed a good cappuccino from time to time, sorry we aren’t coffee lovers. We would grab food in a market whenever possible. But our love of cocktails, wine, and outstanding dinners made our budget a bit bigger. We spent about €75 a day on food.

As the CFO of our family, my goal is to stay within our budget and never have credit card debt. We want to retire debt-free and retirement gets closer every year. We did what we set out to do. Are we more cash-poor because of it? Yes! But the memories are priceless and you can’t take it with you! ❤️

Our trips may look extravagant to some but when you’re on pilgrimage there are no souvenirs. We took a long walk to Rome and enjoyed every step, even the rough ones. 

VF Day 49-50: Religion & Pilgrimage

I’m not a religious person. I am a God-fearing woman who was raised with religion. I respect it. I respect the impact it has on the lives of many. I raised my son to love God but respect the differences in others.

Religion has torn apart families, it has brought families together. It has destroyed communities and countries, but it can bring them together. Brian and I have worked and volunteered in churches for much of our lives. We’ve seen the labor of love that goes into preparing for a church service but we have also seen the politics, backstabbing, judgmental, gossip-driven ugly side of the church.

Pace means peace ❤️

We chose to live a life of loving people equally, completely, without judgment, and without pressuring them to believe in one thing or another. I utterly appreciate that we all see the world differently and live differently. It’s what makes traveling the world a rich experience. If anyone wants to talk to me about God, I will happily tell them about my spiritual path. However, I will not ask them to share that belief. I will live by example when it comes to those who know me, love me, and learn from me but that is where it ends.

Have I set the stage for this blog? Haha! The Via Francigena, along with the other Caminos we have completed, are ancient Catholic pilgrimages. So why would those who are not religious walk them? It’s a great question and one that is discussed among fellow pilgrims along the Way.

The simple answer is we walk for the adventure, the time together, and to experience a new culture. The long answer isn’t much different. We love to be more than tourists, which can be challenging with other types of travel. Even when we are traveling in our RV we don’t move as slowly as we do when we are walking. Maybe when we are retired and can stay in one area for a long period of time it will be a similar experience but, for now, this is the best way to immerse ourselves in another culture.

Because we respect other religions, we enjoy getting to know how others worship. The pilgrimages we have completed are Catholic but there are pilgrimages where we can experience other faiths. One, in particular, that interest us is the sister pilgrimage to the Camino Frances in Japan where you walk from Buddhist Temple to Buddhist temple. Who knows, maybe you’ll see us walking that next?

The churches are just stunning

You don’t have to be religious to walk a pilgrimage. I think the most important part is to be respectful, like learning a few words so you can express kindness in the language of the country you are traveling in. When you go into churches, take off your hat, be quiet, and respect those who are there to worship. 

There is a lot of history along a pilgrimage route. It’s always great to read as much as you can before you go. Then as you are walking you will appreciate more of what you are seeing because it will be familiar.

Walking pilgrimage has made us even more respectful and accepting of our differences and more appreciative of the gifts that have been given to us. These are gifts I will be grateful for forever. It brings me to tears when I see how abrasive people can be to each other. It breaks my heart to watch others push their opinions and tell others how to live. I wish everyone could go on a pilgrimage, the world would be a more understanding place.

Grazie, thank you, for reading my blogs as we walked. I will have more coming in the months ahead as we reflect on our adventure. I will talk about our budget, our lodging choices, language barriers, and overcoming my “I am not sure I can” mentality (which is almost as bad as I can’t).

If you haven’t watched our Via Francigena videos on YouTube, what are you waiting for? 😆❤️ See the playlist when you click here.

If this blog inspired you, please click the like button! 👍🏼 If there is something else you want me to talk about, please leave a comment below. If you are walking a pilgrimage in the future, I would love to know about it, leave a comment.

Please remember your blessings and respect the differences in others.

VF Day 37-38: The Routine, Rest Days, & Tourists

The routine is natural to us, it’s both easy and uncomplicated. We wake up between 5:30-6 a.m. and are walking just as soon as we get out the door. Ideally there’s a bar/caffé between 5-8 km into the walk for a breakfast stop. If I have to wait until 10km, I’m cranky and if there’s no food along the way I’m…let’s not talk about it. We can usually find something. However, sometimes we can only find food once a day. This trail is not like the Camino de Santiago where there’s food about every 5-7 km, sometimes the food on this trail is quite scarce.

Marcello and his pilgrim rest stop in La Villa

Yesterday, while walking to Siena there was only one stop for food for our 20 km walk. It was a roadside stand with a great guy, Marcello, who created this food stand in front of his house. Marcello and his cake and cappuccino were a huge blessing. He only accepts donations.

Once we finish the walk, usually between noon – 2 p.m., the routine continues. This part reminds me of RVing when we arrive at a new campground. Everyone needs to leave us alone while we back up the rig and get it set up. Similarly, when we arrive at our accommodation for the night, we can’t get distracted by stores, wine, food, or a festival which was the case in Monteriggioni.

Looking back at the walled city of Monteriggioni

When we check into a new place, we show our passports, pay for the night so we don’t have to worry about it in the morning, learn how to use the keys, and understand what’s expected while we’re there. Once that’s done the next step is critical unless we’re hungry or there’s a festival like in Monteriggioni. In case you’re not sure yet, the festival really tried to distract us and throw off our routine. Wait until that YouTube video is out, wow!

Once we’re settled into our room it’s time to hand wash today’s clothes so they have plenty of time to dry and grab a shower before anyone else has to smell us. At that point we are free to wander around the town, go to the church, peek in the shops (though nothing can be purchased unless they can ship it home), and of course, find more food.

The goal is to be in bed by 9 p.m. so we can do it all again, unless there’s a festival outside your window. I’m all for a good distraction, you know that, but right now I’m in a pilgrim zone as we attempt to finish the last two weeks strong. The festival in Monteriggioni was a nice distraction in the walled village with only two streets but the main stage was right outside of our unair-conditioned room and it went on until well after midnight. That is tough on a pilgrim.

Once we got to Siena we were both tired from the late night but the distractions were everywhere and so were the tourists. Just getting to our accommodation meant dancing around tourists who randomly stop in the middle of the street for a photo of anything. I want the photos too but not with my backpack on. And if you bump into me, I will leave sweat in your clothes.

I will admit, tourists are exhausting. I’m thankful I don’t live in a tourist town. Deciding to take a rest day in a tourist town isn’t for every pilgrim. I get it. There’s so much to do but what we need to do is recuperate and rest our feet.

Our rest day regimen includes: Sleep in, wander around until lunch, take a nap, work some/watch Netflix, grab dinner, and get to bed at a reasonable time. However, in a tourist town that means we can pick only a few things to see or we will wear ourselves out!

Inside the basilica – you’ll have to wait until the video comes out for all of the footage!

Siena is no exception but we managed it successfully! The city guide brochure is 27 pages long and has the city broken up into 3 areas. 😳 We left our room about 9:15 a.m. and did our best wandering until fresh pizza was calling our name. After lunch we took a 3 hour nap. Oh my gosh, that was the best part of my day! Haha!

Of course, since we’re accustomed to the late dinner, we had our la passa giata (evening stroll) this evening around the Piazza del Campo and followed our noses to a good meal. Our wallets paid the price for the lack of planning but it was worth it for the vibe. We have a 25 km walk tomorrow and it’s going to be 92°f/33°c tomorrow so no sleeping in for us!

This has been our routine for 45 days. Yes, 45 days! (Note: We’ve been on pilgrimage for 45 days but the title reflects our walking day count to follow our YouTube videos.) It feels natural to us to the point where it will be strange when we’re not walking. But that thought brings me to tears and it’s a blog for another day. For now I will focus on the pleasure of our final 12 days of walking. Rome will be here too soon.

Ciao! Ciao!

Walking stats from San Gimignano to Monteriggioni included 12 km of walking and 15 km by taxi

  • Lodging at Castello Casa per ferie Maria Assunta with a private room – €74

Walking stats from Monteriggioni to Sienna – 20.74 km

  • Lodging for 2 nights in a tourist town at La Terrazza Sul Campo-Rooming house – €226

*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.

★ 25 years guiding ★ 48 U.S. states ★ 10 countries ★ 3,000+ Camino miles