Besides the incessant heat, our greatest struggle is decided if we should rest on a rest day or seeing what’s all around us in whatever city/village we are in.
We have to decide, is it important to have a rest day in a small village with nothing to see or stay in a medium village with a bit of life but not too much so you don’t wear yourself? Or do you just rest when the body says it’s time? Everyone is different. I think ultimately the body will tell you what you can and cannot do.
Our dream rest day is a medium sized village, with a lively (but not too lively) piazza near us, a few interesting things to wander and see, but not too much or we won’t rest.
There is one more critical piece to a perfect rest day – the accommodation. We have had all types on this trek, from the absolute most uncomfortable, stinky, hot, and nowhere to work accommodations to the magical little place we have here in Lucca. The room is small but it has all of the essentials, air conditioning, a decent bed, nice size shower, and a gorgeous courtyard.
Working and resting on a rest day
It was like our bodies said, “enough” and they called a time out. We just took a rest day in Marina di Massa. However, we were on the beach in the sun all day like tourists and our accommodation was the worst we have had the entire trip.
Here in Lucca, we did what we do best when our bodies feel they way they did coming in. We wandered around the piazzas near us and visited a couple of churches, but that’s all. Last night we didn’t even go back out for dinner. This was not how we saw our time in Lucca but alas it’s what we needed.
A rest day is completely different from being a tourist. When you are a tourist, you walk a lot of kilometers to see as much as you can of a town before you leave. We will have plenty of time for tourism after we make it to Rome.
Have you ever come home from a tourist vacation only to feel utterly exhausted? This is the feeling we try to avoid because our walking days are exhausting enough.
Then there are exceptions, like a beach, because it sounds utterly wonderful and relaxing. I have no regrets about that day, it was magical despite the accommodation and feeling exhausted the next day.
Life is full of exceptions and we need to embrace them. It’s a big part of why we are not purist trail hikers. We tried that and it wasn’t as much fun. We are on a long adventure and the days of waking lots of kilometers is not always fun. It’s hot on the trail in the summer. The trail is extremely tough at times and the days are long. We are making memories of all types, including a few we are creating when we make exceptions.
For the first time while on a pilgrimage we fully own our choices and will not be bound by what others think we should or should not do, where we should go or not go. They are our memories to create and it feels outstanding.
We will have to come back to be tourists in Lucca someday, along with other villages we have made note of for the future.
The exceptions will continue again the day after tomorrow when we leave the trail for a day and a half to visit Pisa. The reviews of Pisa are mixed but there’s that famous leaning tower thing, you know, and it has to be seen. Haha! If we don’t go, it’s a town we may not come back to see and the town everyone will ask if we visited. Alas, we’re going to be tourists for a day.
It does mean losing a day on the Via Francigena but we are looking forward to the distraction. After Pisa, it will be time to buckle down and finish the last few weeks of this trail. Rome is calling and we are excited to tour it!
Take the time to enjoy the cappuccino
If you take anything from this blog, please remember your life is yours to live. Be happy with your path, your choices, and your exceptions.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from our walk from Sarzana to Camaiore.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from Camaiore to Lucca!
Walking stats from Massa di Marina to Camaiore – 11.5 km with a bus for 14 km
Lodging at Ostello del Pellegrino – €40
Walking stats from Camaiore to Lucca – 16 km with a bus for 9 km
Lodging at il Cortile di Elisa for two nights – €144
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
This photo came up on my Facebook memories today. It’s ironic and funny because without seeing that picture I asked Brian to take the picture below.
2022 Via Francigena going into Rappollo
I’m always exhausted after a day of hiking in the heat and sun. Despite the exhaustion, I am called back to the trail all the time. I don’t know what calls me, I don’t know why we are called to walk on pilgrimage at all. Maybe it’s because we love slow tourism, maybe it’s a reason we don’t need to know yet. It feels weird to say it but it’s true – I’m exhausted even though we have been moving slowly all day. Happiness found us while on pilgrimage.
A sign on the wall of our accommodation
I do know with two pilgrimages under our belt, working on a third, our lives have drastically changed since that first walk in 2017. We made a big decision that first summer while on pilgrimage. We decided we couldn’t let life to pass us by, we could not live our lives from the couch. We needed to participate in our lives, live what little time we are given on this Earth to the fullest. As cliché as that sounds, it profoundly changed every decision we have made since that summer.
In 2017 we got off the plane in Columbus, Ohio, and after 2 full days of travel wearing the same stinky clothes we had worn for two months, we stopped at an RV dealership. We purchased an RV within a week of coming home.
We learned from that pilgrimage, we want to see as much of the US and the world as possible. We don’t want to be tourists, we want to engage, to fully immerse ourselves, as we travel.
Despite a pandemic, our travels really have not stopped. Because of that RV purchase, we were able to see more of our country than the average person as we were self-contained and not willing to stay inside. We were safe, we were smart, but we needed to live.
In 2017, I was an overwhelmed, exhausted, pushing the limits of my mental and physical capabilities, woman. Now, I am just a little less overwhelmed, still exhausted but happier, and driven harder to see more before time slips away. Exhaustion is not a bad thing, rather it means you are living.
Pilgrimage is hard, even for the young, super-fit pilgrims. The long walk in the quiet grabs your soul and challenges you to think about what’s most important in life. It makes you a bit thankful, a bit happy, a bit sad, and gives you the urge to push through those feelings. What else can do that to a person all in one day?
In 2018 we started Cruisin’ with the Colemans because we realized we needed to start documenting all of our travels. Then in 2019, just before we went on our second pilgrimage, the Caminho Portuguese, we started our YouTube channel.
We blog/create videos because we are called to tell the stories of our travels. We want to inspire others, give our students something to consider as they figure out how they want to live their lives, and most importantly, to give our kids/grandkids the drive to get out and live. Ultimately, we want the memories. When our days of travel are behind us, we can “pull out the projector” and reminisce of a life lived to the fullest. We can only dream.
For those of you who are following our stats on the Via Francigena, I have not forgotten about you. My blogs are about what inspires me each day. However, I know there are some that want to know where we are staying and how much a day on this pilgrimage costs. Here is a catch up of our stats/lodging/expenses below. By the way, I will talk about our budget and how we fair at the end of our pilgrimage. Preview: For us, we are on track to staying under our budget!
Stats walking from Pont Saint Martin to Irvea 13.5 km with 5 km additionally by bus. Check out the YouTube video too!
Lodging at La Palma 2.0 – €48 – best accommodation thus far!!
Bus tickets for 2 – €4
Stats walking from Irvea to Roppollo – 20.2 km. We highly recommend going past Viverone, on to Roppollo and staying at this albergue. The guide book stage ends in Viverone. There are private rooms, great hosts, and there is an outstanding trattoria with a pilgrim meal for €12 for dinner! Check out our YouTube video too!
Lodging at La Casa del Movimento Lento – €50 for two people in a private room
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsement. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Right now my biggest struggle is food. There never seems to be enough of it. The Hospice we stayed at last night included breakfast. Unfortunately that breakfast was a few day old piece of bread with butter/jelly and tea. Neither one of us could finish our bread because it wasn’t sitting right. We planned to have “second breakfast” at our first town 5 kilometers into our walk. Unfortunately, maybe because it’s Sunday, nothing was open. We hiked on to the next town where we found a bar. At the bar we could have cappuccino, liquor, or packaged muffins. We skipped the liquor. For a moment, I was ok.
We planned to stop for lunch in Etroubles but it was down pouring rain, thundering, and at times we had hail, so we pushed on another 3 km to our destination for the day. We stopped at our accommodation to shower and put our bags down but nobody was home. We tuck our bags into a corner, walked down the big hill to the one restaurant in town. It’s sure to be open because there are a ton of cars.
We approach only to see a handwritten sign on the door, chiuso, closed. Noooo!!! I am starving! A gentleman comes to the door to tell us they are having a family reunion today, “maybe we can come back about 8 p.m. for dinner.” It’s 2 p.m. now. Since it’s a tiny village we ask about our accommodation. He tells us that our host is his brother, he will get him. Thankfully his brother drives us back up the hill, settles us in, and tells us about a restaurant at the last town back if we want food. It’s a 25 minute walk, one way. He made some joke about wine but I wasn’t willing to listen. I smile politely. I’m hungry and I don’t want to talk about it.
Let’s talk about our hiking day! You know the saying, “What goes up, must come down!” And boy did we climb down. We descended just over 1,200 meters (4,100 feet) in 15.4 kilometers.
The scenery was just as stunning with wildflowers in abundance. We even saw a mountain goat frolicking up the mountain. Check out our TikTok videos for about the same glimpse of him that we had!
The rain was intense but didn’t last long. All in all it was another spectacular day on pilgrimage. I just wish there was more food. Ok, I guess I want to talk about it again. We have completed a pilgrimage in Spain, the Camino de Santiago, and in Portugal, the Camino Portuguese. There was always plenty of food. By looking at me, I will survive without food for a day, probably more, but I am not as much fun to be around, just ask Brian. Haha.
It’s 6:30 p.m., Brian and I are distracting ourselves with writing/video editing, social media, anything but food conversations. The owner of our accommodation comes home. We settle up the bill, arrange a time for breakfast, and ask if his parents are open for dinner. He says yes! We arrive and there are 5 pilgrims already eating and laughing! What? We are late for dinner! I guess they know what time, “maybe 8 p.m.” is code for in Italian.
Finally, an outstanding dinner!
Alas, we have an outstanding meal of homemade pasta, pork and potatoes, salad, wine, tiramisu, and homemade grappa. A meal literally sent down from the heavens. I am no longer withering away, my belly is full. We will both sleep well tonight! It’s our biggest day of hiking yet tomorrow and are guaranteed a farm fresh breakfast. Tomorrow is going to be a good eating day, I just know it.
I know some of you want me to talk about the gluten issue and I will. I am just not ready to talk about it yet. In short, I am avoiding gluten when I can, taking preventative measures when I can’t. The bottom line is “wheat belly” or not, I have to eat. And yes, you can see in some of our videos when I have the unfortunate “wheat belly.”
The day started with breakfast with the abbot at the Abbey of Saint Maurice. I mean, a private breakfast, how cool is that? We shared stories, asked each other a lot of questions with a few language limitations. He tried to talk politics, we steered the conversation away and he left it alone. We received a blessing and we were on our way. Ok, so that’s not your typical day. Haha
The abbot on the far right and the priest who served us breakfast
A typical day to us means manageable walking, no injury, tolerable weather, hand washing our clothes, and positive attitudes. We had them all today except the washing machine which is a rare gem to find. Oh, and I finally got a good night’s sleep. I’m hoping for two nights in a row of good sleep. Let’s pray!
Today’s walk had a bit of uphill but only to mentally prepare us for what’s to come. We don’t have any injury – yet – but unfortunately I have a bit of shin splint pain. I am working through all of my prevention techniques, please hope it helps. We have a huge mountain pass to get through. We had all of the “Camino classics today” from the sound of cowbells in a pasture of sheep, adorable villages, waterfalls, water fountains of plenty, and a bit of rain. Make sure you are following our YouTube channel for a full video and TikTok for small 1-2 minute clips of the day.
All of the gear gets tested today from camera gear, rain coats, and our umbrellas that only weigh 6.8 ounces! Check out their website
Look – we have all of our gear! Our umbrellas, hiking sticks, and pocket knives arrived by airport courier at midnight last night. Thank goodness Brian was able to wake up to receive the call that the courier was outside of the abbey otherwise we wouldn’t have gotten the package.
I love the animals we see along the way. Today we had llamas, horses, sheep, and lambs who were so tiny! But today was extra special because we saw the St. Bernard dogs. These dogs were rescue dogs only a short time ago and now they are part of a foundation working as therapy dogs. I have been looking forward to today for awhile!
One of the dozen St. Bernard therapy dogs we met at Barry Land, more on our YouTube channel
To take things easy on my shins we just went to Barry Land and then the grocery store for a bit of food to eat in our room tonight. It’s only 8:30 p.m. but I am sure I will be asleep soon. The mountains all around us are quite intimidating and we both need our strength.
Tonight’s dinner thanks to the grocery store across the street from our hotel
It’s nice to have such a typical day because it gives a good memory for when we’re having a bad day. We know they’re coming, but that’s like life. Good days vs. bad days is all a matter of mindset. I focus on the typical so when it’s atypical can keep the day in perspective.
Have you ever heard of such a thing? Apparently, it’s nonexistent. We’re walking the Via Francigena this summer and we spent much of our 2021-2022 planning this upcoming adventure.
In planning for our flight, we did all the right things. We monitored flights on Hopper, snatched them up when they were exactly what we wanted, at the most acceptable price, and watched the flight every day for months to make sure nothing changed.
But, of course, the flight changed. Our easy, international flight with one layover turned into a moderately easy flight with two layovers. Back to refreshing the app daily for months to make sure nothing else changed. We pivoted, no problem.
72 hours before our flight leaves Mother Nature brews up a big storm on the East Coast. Flights are delayed everywhere. Our flight changed again, back to one layover leaving out of a different airport. We pivot, no problem.
Our travel day arrives and we’re giddy with excitement. So giddy, I could honestly puke. That unsettled feeling in my stomach was a warning sign, I just didn’t know it yet.
Our son arrives at our house a bit early and we’re on our way to the airport. It’s an hour drive on the highway, no problem. Until the traffic comes to a complete stop. It’s an accident and the phone says it’s a 90 minute delay. Our son does a u-turn and we’re on back roads all the way. We arrive at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Our son pivots.
We stroll through security. What? It was frighteningly easy! I jumped with excitement, it was a sight, you should have seen it. Hallelujah! Europe, here we come! We’ve been pivoting and this is our reward.
We’re at our gate, backpacks resting on our backs, and we’re all smiles. Then we hear, “due to weather in Newark, your flight is delayed by 30 minutes.” No worries, that leaves us with 90 minutes after we land before our next flight leaves. The plane starts to board, we’re at the nose of the plane about to step on when we hear, “turn around! Everyone, turn around! We’re delayed for 90 minutes!” Say, what? That was all of the wiggle room we had left! How does one pivot from that?
We get back to the terminal and immediately call customer service. I’m on hold for 45 minutes because nobody is at the gate to help. I finally get someone and he says, “I’m sorry, all the flights are full.” I plead, I want to pivot but I’m getting exhausted. We’re going to miss our connection by minutes. The true nature of my unsettled stomach is starting to make sense. He says he’ll hit refresh until he finds something. Alas, he thinks he has success but it’s time to board the plane. Should we get on? I don’t know what to do. I’m on hold. The gate agent says, “make a decision!” We get on the plane.
We decide to figure out our pivot move in Newark. Heck, we hadn’t even missed our connection yet. The plane sits on the tarmac for 20 minutes. We’re definitely missing the connection now. No problem, we convince ourselves, it’s all going to be ok.
When we land the gate agent tells us to go to customer service. We swiftly head over there. We see a ton of flights to Europe on the big board, as long as we get across the pond it will all be ok.
We get to customer service and the line is easily two hours long. While in line, I get on the phone to call customer service, and Brian starts a text conversation with them. I am the first one to get help, I explain the situation. She begins the search. She tells me there is nothing. But the big board shows a plethora of flights, please refresh. I have pivoted back to pleading.
An hour passes, and we are still in line. We beg, “please, there’s a flight leaving soon for Paris. I am sure we can get a connection, just get us on that flight.” Despite my request, she pursues an entirely different flight. She’s refreshing her screen. She wants us to go to Frankfort, Germany. Ok, well, it’s over the pond but neither one of us downloaded German on our Google Translate app. Whatever just get us on a plane.
We get disconnected. Are you kidding me? 90 minutes on the phone, a possible confirmed flight, and we get disconnected. She calls me back, but she can’t hear me. She calls me back again, I can’t hear her. We are so close to the front of the line where a human stands facing all of these displaced passengers. I refresh the airline’s app on my phone. She has us on a flight to Frankfort with a connection to Geneva. There’s hope that we’ll make it and make our Lake Geneva ferry ride. We get out of the 2 hour customer service line and speed walk to the gate.
It’s a mad house! We don’t have boarding passes and there is no way we’re going to get help at our gate. The flight is delayed. We go to the gate next to ours. It’s the Paris flight, she’s locking the doors. She smiles, “How can I help you?” We tell her the situation, our newest delay, our newest missed connection. She says, I kid you not, “Oh, there was plenty of room on this flight, if only you were a few minutes earlier.” If only, if only.
I am disappointed but remain calm because I know it’s the only thing that will get us through this situation. She sends us back to the madhouse. We wait in another line. My ultra cool husband that never gets mad is starting to snap. We calm each other down. We get to the front of the new line and they have no idea how to help. Oh, and only one computer of three is working. The flight is further delayed and it’s obvious we’re going to miss our connection, again. But if we can just get over the pond, if we can just be in Europe, everything will be ok. A good pivot is needed.
We’re on the plane. I am texting with customer service about our connection. The flight we’re sitting on is delayed further because of an unruly passenger who’s getting escorted off of the plane. I would rather him get escorted off now than cause more trouble later. Thank goodness the flight crew still has the ability to pivot.
I’m on a text hold while I wait for a customer service agent. 20 minutes later, someone is finally texting me. I explain the problem, again. She says there are no options. I plead, she refreshes her screen. You know the drill now.
Thank goodness for free wi-fi on the plane within the app because it took two hours but we’re confirmed on yet another plane. Unfortunately, we have a 4 hour layover when we land in Frankfort and another layover in Zurich, Switzerland before ultimately making it to Geneva. We will continue to pivot and I am confident at this point, we’ll make it.
Brian and I watch a movie, sip on our complimentary wine, and drift off into sleep. It’s an 8 hour flight, we will feel refreshed soon and be able to handle whatever happens when we land.
There’s some turbulence, not the best sleep, but we’re managing. Then comes the intercom, you have heard this one in the movies, “Is there a doctor on board the plane? Is there a doctor on the plane?” I bolt awake. No, I’m not a doctor but maybe this is all a theatrical dream. This could not be actually happening. I don’t know what happened to the person who needed a doctor, I pray whoever it remains ok and there was a doctor on the plane. There are 290 people on here, I have to think this person is ok. When we landed an ambulance and fire truck was waiting while the person was escorted off the plane.
It’s at the point of being startled out of my mediocre slumber where this blog post begins to take shape. I wasn’t going to write about our flight to Geneva. It was supposed to be an easy flight. Meanwhile, Brian holds my hand. He’s glad I didn’t need medical help and he drifts back into his uneasy slumber. Me? I type this all out before my brain can no longer process what’s happened.
We arrive in Geneva and you would hope this drama would be over but alas something else has to happen, you know that by now. We made it but our luggage was not so lucky. Fortunately, we have everything we need on our backs; however, our hiking sticks, umbrellas, pocket knives, and a few larger toiletries did not arrive. Hopefully, they will arrive at our destination tomorrow.
Ultimately the journey is more important than the destination. We had a good time, we practiced our chill skills, and we master our ability to pivot. The more we travel the better we are at expecting the unexpected and learning to calmly work through whatever comes our way. I wonder what lessons this pilgrimage will teach us.
It’s cold, snowing, and the wind attempted to knock us off our feet most of the day. Fortunately on this bike trail we were a bit protected from the wind because the reality of how windy it actually was illustrated at every street crossing. 😩
Have I set the scene? We’re ridiculous, but we’re even more ridiculously motivated to get a week of backpacking under our belt. We haven’t been on a long backpacking trip since the summer of 2019 because of my necessary foot surgeries and then, well everyone knows what happened in March 2020.
The goal: To walk from Springfield, OH (north of Dayton) to Covington, KY on the Little Miami River Trail. Throughout the week, we are staying with fellow hikers, friends, an albergue-style home, and two hotels (because a good Camino always needs a splurge). It will be 90 miles over 7 days of walking, averaging just under 13 miles a day.
Today was supposed to be an easy 8.5 mile flat trail walk and Mother Nature tried to challenge us but alas we pressed on. Tonight we’re staying in an Air B&B in Yellow Springs at the Corry Street Retreat. It’s adorable and definitely feels like a Camino accommodation with 3 rooms, 3 detached bathrooms, and a common area with a full kitchen.
Corry Street Retreat from Air B&B in Yellow Springs, Ohio
It’s going to be a great week. We’ll have more cold, another dash of wind, sunshine, and even a 74 degree day. But we’re together and our only goals are walking, washing our clothes, and eating. If you want more, here’s a video from day 1 and day 2 on the trail: click here.
Total for today: 8.5 miles; $213 with $137 for food and $76 for our accommodations.
Last week I began reflecting on our 2019 Camino, sharing five of our top ten reflections from our Camino. You can find that blog by clicking here. In June and July of 2019, we biked and hiked about 550 miles or 882 kilometers on the Camino. We walked from León, Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Then we flew down to Lisbon, Portugal where we biked from Lisbon to Porto and walked from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. This was our second Camino as we walked the Camino Frances in its entirety in 2017.
Astorga is breathtaking in the summer
We were blessed with fantastic weather, being the summer season. In June we had cold mornings and cool afternoons, by July we were thrilled to have quite a few weeks in the mid-70s. It only rained twice, which probably wasn’t great for the farmers but we relished in the weather.
Though the weather was kind to us I struggled throughout much of the Camino. I had foot problems which wasn’t anything too unusual for me. But more importantly, I developed anxiety while on the Camino which stunned both of us. Unfortunately, I had to go to the emergency room the night before we walked into Santiago on the Camino Frances because my shortness of breath was at an all-time high. I was convinced it was a heart attack. Thankfully we found a hospital with an interpreter who stayed with us all night and had fantastic staff who ran a lot of tests before concluding it was anxiety. They taught me to remember I was on holiday and needed to start acting like it. I am still coming to terms with the “why” I had such high anxiety but I think the answer lies somewhere in the remaining five reflections.
#5 – Live Like Locals
This reflection comes from the idea that when you walk the Camino you are on vacation, or on holiday as my nurses reminded me. In general, when we travel we try to follow the philosophy of “living like the locals” by minimizing tourist attractions, avoiding chain restaurants, seeking out local activities, and finding ways to engage with local residents.
A wonderful picnic lunch with locals and owners of Camino by Boat
On the Camino Portuguese, there are a lot of locals and not much else; however, many pilgrims stick with other pilgrims. It may be seeking what we have in common with one another, the language barriers, you’re only with a local for a night or two, or just the ease of talking with those you walk by every day. But if you can spend time getting to know the locals, I promise you will have a richer experience. There are several ways this can happen.
Camino swag made by Portuguese Artisan
When you are looking for a room for the night stay in a small albergue, stay an extra night if you meet a local that you really connect with, and seek out places to eat where you can engage with the locals. Also, if someone is selling something on the side of the road, talk to him or her. We each bought Camino necklaces made by a local and the stories he shared made our experience much richer (photo above). We learned so much about the communities, the culture, the neighborhoods, just by talking to the locals. They are certainly the most knowledgable about the country you are experiencing.
#4 – Find the Festivals
This is a must-do for us whenever we travel for several reasons. (1) If prices are usually high, a festival is usually the reason why. Then you have to decide if you want to stay in that town for the festival or press onward. (2) You can learn what’s important to a community based on what they are celebrating. (3) We make a reservation in advance to make sure we have a room, and if you book early, you usually can find a better price. (4) It helps us decide if we want to plan an extra rest day in that town/village.
The Festival of Trays happens once every 4 years in Tomar, Portugal
On our Camino, we knew about two festivals that we made sure were included. The Festival of Trays in Tomar, Portugal which included a competition of “best-decorated neighborhood” in the photo above (not the winner, that we know of), parades, and processionals. We only planned one rest day here but wished we would have had two days in Tomar. The second festival was the Apostle Festival in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It happens every year during the Feast of St. James. It is the largest festival of the year and we have been able to attend during both of our Caminos. However, if you don’t book early, it will be tough and expensive to find a room.
#3 – Alone vs. Lonely
This is an interesting reflection for me and one that surprised me deeply. Let me set up. In 2017, on the Camino Frances, we were with people all the time. We were rarely alone and we are still friends today with several people we met on the Camino. Was it because we walked the entire Camino? I don’t think so. Were we different? I don’t think so except that I was in a lot of pain this time so I may have been more introverted. So that may have been one reason.
Brian capturing the perfect water shot on an empty beach
On this Camino, we decided to walk part of one Camino and all of another. Does that mean we split our focus and didn’t have the time to build relationships? Maybe. Upon reflection, I wish would have only walked the Camino Portuguese. We were too “all over the place” on this Camino.
However, and this is big, the friendships we still have today from our 2017 encouraged us to walk on the Camino Frances. Why? I am still processing but here is what I have concluded thus far about our Camino Portuguese. (1) We were on bikes from Lisbon to Porto which means we were not walking day by day with other people. (2) Pilgrims were shockingly judgemental about those who bike the Camino. This hurt me deeply but we had fellow pilgrims tell us we were cheating. The locals were kinder than pilgrims. (3) By the time we were walking again, many people already had their “clicks” and we were not a part of them. (4) There were a lot of larger groups on the Camino. (5) When we talked to pilgrims, we learned that many people walk the Camino Portuguese in part because there are fewer people and they were more interested in the solitude. In the end, Brian and I had each other and we certainly grew closer together.
#2 – Planning Extends the Fun
We absolutely love planning our travels. The planning time gives us something to do when we can’t travel because we are working, it gives us experiences to look forward to, and it gives us time to research what is happening during the time we will be at a certain place. I don’t see us ever traveling without planning something. Even if we don’t make reservations, just researching where we are traveling gives us a lot to look forward to when we get there!
The day we were riding into the village of Águeda was filled with anticipation because we knew about the Umbrella Sky Project. We didn’t, however, know how many streets are decorated. Above is the main street but there is so much more to this village. It’s this anticipation that got us through the tough days, the hot days, and the days we wanted to quit.
We encourage everyone to at least do some research when you are traveling to a new place. Whether you learn how they interact, what they eat, what they celebrate, and what makes the town special. This research will give you a lot to look forward to and enrich the anticipation of what is to come.
#1 – In the End, Don’t Plan Everything
Here it is, the number one reflection so far. I can’t believe this is my number one, Brian is still on the fence about it. But based on both of our Caminos and all of our years of travel, I have to say don’t plan it all.
Let me set this one up and explain why we plan everything. We plan our routes and make all of our reservations for one specific reason – we can only travel during the busiest times of the year which is school holidays because we are teachers. When we travel it is the busiest and most expensive time of year so planning helps us same money, find deals, helps us do a lot in the time we have, and gives us travel to look forward when the workdays are rough.
I am sure you already know the downside, we did but it didn’t change our way of doing things. When you plan everything out, you are locked into a route and a time frame. We have been ok with that because we always have contingency plans. If we were too hot, too tired, sick or injured, we were ok with taxing/bussing ahead. For us, that normally works. Here’s the problem this time, there are a few of them.
First, when we walked into Sierra, Spain, the starting point for those who only want to complete the last 100k of the Camino required to earn your Compostela, there were busloads of students. Multiple busloads. A lot of people. If we would have stayed an extra night, maybe we would have avoided that crowd. However, maybe there would have been more the next day. I don’t know but we didn’t have the flexibility to learn.
Second, when my foot started giving me trouble, it would have helped if we would have done half days. Yes, we could have walked half the day and taxied/bussed the other half, but I was too stubborn until the pain reached a breaking point. 🙁 Half days would have also helped my anxiety but I didn’t know what the problem was at the time. Slowing down period would have helped because I was feeling the pain in many ways.
Yes – and it taught us so much!
Finally, not planning the Camino in its entirety would have given us time to stick around a village longer if we needed or wanted to stay. However, we had festivals to get to, an ambitious route planned, and we were determined. In the end, we walked a lot less than we wanted to and I pushed myself way too hard.
Do you sense my inner conflict? Because it’s there. I know there is a lot to be said about going with the flow. I want to, I really do, we will see where life takes us next. I will say, we are doing a better job of planning with flexibility. For example, our next two trips, Nashville for Thanksgiving and Naples, Florida for Christmas, are planned, but minimally. We have reservations for our campgrounds which are necessary because of the time of year. Our Naples campground was sold out by August. However, we don’t have daily plans. We made a general list of things we would like to do while at each destination. However, what we actually do will simply be what we are in the mood to do.
There you have it, our top 10 reflections from our 2019 Camino. From footwear, to festivals, to going with the flow. At this point, it has only been a month and I am sure there will be more reflections as we work on the presentations we are giving in the future about our Camino experiences. For now, head over to YouTube for a lot more Camino content.
We would love to hear from you! What did you learn from your Camino? What do you wish we would have talked about? What questions do you still have for us?
“OUR TOP TEN REFLECTIONS MAY NOT SURPRISE YOU, BUT OUR NUMBER ONE WILL LEAVE YOU STUNNED”
We walked part of the Camino Frances and all of the Camino Portuguese in June and July of 2019. As of today, we’ve been home for exactly a month. We have been extremely busy since we’ve been home with little time to reflect but the Camino is always on our mind. Creating a list of our top 10 reflections is tough because it may be too early to genuinely process our experiences. However, we think this is a pretty good representation.
#10 – Every Camino is Different
We didn’t consciously go into this Camino with a list of expectations; however, since we walked the Camino Frances, from St. John Pied de Port, France to Finisterre, in 2017 we unconsciously had more expectations than we realized. For example, being teachers the overall time of year we walked was the same for both. However, we started in León, Spain this trip around the 10th of June when last time we didn’t arrive in León until the 4th of July. A month makes a difference that we didn’t expect. Last time it was the festival season, this time it was large groups of school children walking the Camino as their end of the year school trip.
Additionally, we heard the Camino Portuguese has fewer people; however, we figured that would make people want to bond more. Not in our case, remember every Camino is different, people were already in self-proclaimed groups or wanted to be alone. The other factor we had is we biked from Lisbon to Porto and then walked from Porto to Santiago so we didn’t have the ability to follow at the same pace as others. The final major unexpected factor was the sheer foot pain I was in for most of the trip. I wasn’t the happiest person all of the time and it greatly impacted our experience.
#9 – The Camino Tells You When to Stop
The Camino Provides – In Room Massages
This is a tough one for me to admit because I want to be unstoppable. However, the Camino will humble anyone. In January through March of 2017, I was in a walking boot for a stress fracture on the top of my left foot. We walked the Camino Frances that year in June and July. The Camino wasn’t too bad, I had my bad days and I should have had foot surgery as soon as we returned home. But I didn’t. Sadly, after more over-training and overuse, I was back in a walking boot from March to May 2019 for two stress fractures on the top of the same foot. I needed surgery but the Camino was calling. I scheduled my surgery for August 2019. As of now, I am 2 weeks post-op and though I can’t bear weight on my foot, I am in significantly less pain.
If you skip to the end of the video below, you will see my reflections about walking the Camino after only 3 weeks into our 8 week trip. I was humbled, broken, and yet inspired by what I was learning from the Camino. Another pilgrim on the Camino said, “listen to the whispers before they become screams.” He was right, great advice, the Camino is always talking to you.
Our Last 2 days on the Camino Frances and Reflections of 300 Miles Walking this Camino
#8 – Never Judge Someone’s Footwear
No, these aren’t our hiking shoes, but they are shoes made of cork that we brought home from Portugal
Yes, there is an unintentional theme going on here regarding feet but when it comes to the Camino it is the most important discussion, food is second and it’s next on our list so hang tight. Brian and I are completely different when it comes to foot problems, I have a lot and he has none. He walked our 2017 and 2019 Caminos entirely in Chaco sandals, linked below, and had zero feet problems. He used O’Keeffe’s Healthy Feet cream every night to help with dry skin.
I need to wear one specific pair of shoes, they need to fit my feet with bunions and hammertoes and need to be wide-ish but my feet are not wide enough for wide shoes. Not all Merrell shoes work for me but the Moabs, linked below, are a great shoe for me. Additionally, I love toe socks and wool socks. I alternate wearing them both when hiking. Unfortunately for this Camino because I was in a boot for so long and I was trying out a different pair of Merrell’s I didn’t wear my Moab’s. Big mistake, always trust the shoes you know. If you can walk all day around an amusement park and still want to continue the next day, those are the shoes to walk in.
Every single person on the Camino is wearing the shoes they think will be the best, some based on experience, others based on someone else’s input. So many people expressed shock when they saw Brian in his Chacos but never said anything to me. However, I was the one struggling.
#7 – The Food in Portugal is Amazing
We didn’t know what to expect when it came to Portuguese food as it’s not a cuisine that you hear about in restaurants. But holy cow were we pleasantly surprised when we arrived! The food was flavorful, colorful, and though there were common staples, there was a nice variety. The one thing we knew was Portugal was known for their pastries and they did not disappoint. They had both sweet and savory, you could find them on every corner, and we ate a lot of them! Haha
Our favorite restaurant on the Camino Portuguese was Tudo aos Molhos in Sao Joao da Madeira. Jorge, the owner and host, takes a level of pride in the food he serves that is rarely seen in home kitchens, let alone busy restaurants. For us, this place is probably the biggest not to miss stop of Portugal! You can see our meal beginning at 2:52 in the video below.
The bottom line is we ate our way through Portugal and it was amazing! If you have favorite Portuguese food, leave a comment.
#6 – Porto has Port, Lisbon has Soul
The view of Porto from across the river
We thought for sure we would love Porto more than Lisbon. Why? I have no idea, maybe something we heard, maybe the draw of Port wine, maybe the water, who knows. I am not sure why we were trying to pick one over the other except that we had 3 days at the end of our trip and we were trying to decide where to spend those days. Early in our trip planning, we picked Lisbon without much thought and then we changed our minds but we were locked into a non-refundable hotel. This all happened before we saw either city but we had to stick with spending our 3 days in Lisbon and we pouted about it for a few months. Now, I am disappointed that we spent so much time pouting because from the moment the plane landed for a 7 hour layover in Lisbon we were in love.
The neighborhood of Alfama in Lisbon
The beach, the buildings, the character, the Tuk-Tuks, the people, the wine, the music, and the neighborhoods, there is so much to say about Lisbon. Brian created a “48 hours in Lisbon” video, it’s linked below. There will also be another 48 hour video about Lisbon in the coming weeks, subscribe to our YouTube channel to get notified when that video drops.
We stayed in the neighborhood of Alfama both times we were in Lisbon, both during our layover between Camino’s and at the end of the trip. The first time we were in Lisbon they were celebrating the Festa de Lisboa which celebrates the barrios (neighborhoods) of Lisbon for the entire month of June. The whole city is decked out for the party and it is sure not to disappoint. Grilled sardines in the street, fado music floating out of doorways, vino Porto, Ginja, sangria, and so many more drinks to sample keep partiers going all night long for the entire month! Alfama is one of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods having survived the earthquake of 1755 and they take the party up a notch. During the rest of the year, Alfama is a little quieter during the day, but in the evenings this neighborhood comes to life and should not be missed.
48 hours in Lisbon – The 1st of 2 Mini Travel Guides
Wait? Where are the last 5 reflections? I’m sorry, you’ll have to wait until next week. But I promise it will be worth the wait. There is still much to reflect upon, it’s too much for one blog post. I will give you a hint – when we walk the Camino again, we won’t do it the same way. Our number one reflection even shocked us!
We will have a YouTube video out on Sunday and another blog post will come out on Wednesday. Be sure to subscribe to both our blog and our YouTube channel if you like what you are reading.
We haven’t been blogging this summer but we’ve been posting about two videos a week about our Camino adventures. Have you checked them out? We’d love to share our Camino with you! Go to YouTube.com/CruisinwiththeColemans to catch up on our videos.
We walked about 300 kilometers on the Camino Frances from León to Santiago in June. Then we flew down to Lisbon, Portugal to complete the Camino Portuguese. We rode bikes from Lisbon to Porto, walked the coastal route from Porto to Caminha, took a boat over to Tui, then finished by walking Tui to Santiago. We arrived in Santiago on July 24th to enjoy the beginnings of the Feast of St. James.
We have one more adventure before we say goodbye to the Camino. We will leave on July 27 to walk to Muxia and then walk on to Finisterre.
You can follow the remainder of our journey on Instagram and Facebook. Our YouYube channel is a few weeks behind where we are now but they are worth the wait for sure!
For now we say, “Buen Camino,” and we will see you when we’re blogging again this fall.
While walking along the Camino de Santiago, there is always plenty of food to choose from, but one of my favorite things is to ask for “especialidad de la casa” or specialty of the house. Whether it is garlic soup, barnacles, home-made cheese, tuna ragu, or octopus, they were always fresh, usually delicious, and definitely a taste of the local culture. One of our favorite local specialties was Tarta de Santiago, an almond cake commonly found in Galicia, but popular across Spain. With only six simple ingredients, the cake is actually quite easy to make and delicious for any occasion. If you are going to walk the Camino, many local stores will sell metal knight’s cross stencils to use for decorating the cake, but a quick google search for the cross of St. James will give you plenty of options to print out. I printed mine on card stock to make it easier to lift off the cake once it was covered in powdered sugar.
After working through several recipes and a couple of different methods, this cake is most like the ones we preferred while doing our taste-test research in Spain. This cake is naturally gluten-free but we did find some that were commercially baked that did contain wheat flour. After some experimentation, here is my recipe for Tarta de Santiago.
Prepare a 9-inch cake pan by cutting. piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom of the pan. Butter the bottom and sides of the pan and place the paper in the pan. Buttering the bottom keeps the paper from moving when you pour the batter in.
In a small bowl, separate 5 large eggs. Use a cereal bowl and then pour the whites into a large bowl so that if a yolk breaks you don’t ruin the entire batch of whites.
Beat the egg yolks with one cup of powdered sugar until they lighten in color and stream off the beaters in thick ribbons.
Zest a lemon and then mince the lemon west until it is very fine. I don’t like biting into a piece of zest when I’m eating the cake. Mix the zest and one teaspoon of pure almond extract into the egg yolk mixture.
Add two cups of finely ground almond flour into the egg mixture by hand. Try to find almond flour that is pale white in color. Many brands are ground before the skins are removed and have brown flecks in them. This will not affect the flavor, but the cake isn’t as pretty in the end. This mixture will be very thick
In another bowl, beat the egg whites with half a teaspoon of salt and a quarter cup of powdered sugar until stiff peaks form.
Take a quarter of the egg whites and mix into the yolk mixture to begin to lighten it. Add another quarter and continue to gently mix together. Finally, add the last half of the eggs whites and mix gently until fully incorporated. Don’t over mix at this point or the cake will be less light. Some recipes skip the step and the whole eggs are added at the beginning. These versions of the cake will be more dense and heavier. We did taste some like this in Spain but they weren’t as good, in my opinion.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake at 350º for 30 minutes. Check the cake and if the center seems too wet, bake for another 5-10 minutes but don’t wait for it to be dry in the center. Also, I would not recommend putting the cake tester directly in the center because you will see the hole since the powdered sugar will not cover it.
Let the finished cake rest in the pan until it is cool and then use a thin knife to cut around the edge to help the cake release. If you are not serving it immediately, wrap it in plastic wrap so that it doesn’t dry out. Gluten-free baked goods are notorious for becoming more dense and dry as they sit, so do not refrigerate it either. I baked this cake the night before we were serving it and it was still perfect the next evening and leftovers on the third day were just as good.
Right before serving, place the cross on the cake and dust with powdered sugar poured into a sieve. Carefully lift off the cross using the tip of a knife to leave the imprint behind.
Tarta de Santiago
5 large eggs
1 1/4 c powdered sugar, divided, plus more for dusting the finished cake
1 lemon, zested
1 t almond extract
2 cups finely ground almond flour
1/2 t salt
Separate the eggs into two large bowls. Using a mixer, combine the yolks and 1 cup of sugar until pale in color and thick ribbons form. Beat in the finely minced lemon zest and almond extract. Stir in the almond flour until well combined. The mixture will be very thick.
In the other bowl, beat the egg whites with the salt and 1/4 cup of sugar until stiff peaks form. Work a quarter of the egg white mixture into the yolk mixture. Continue adding the white a bit at a time until fully incorporated, being careful not to overmix and deflate the whites.
Pour into a 9-inch cake pan that has been buttered and lined with parchment paper. Bake at 350º for 30-40 minutes, being careful to not dry out the cake. It should still be moist in the center. Fully cool before removing from the pan.
Before serving, place a cut-out of the cross of St. James on the cake and dust with powdered sugar. Remove the stencil with the tip of a knife.
Serve the cake with cafe con leché, orujo, or your favorite glass of Spanish wine and enjoy this taste of Northern Spain and the Camino! We hope you’ve enjoyed our journey so far across Spain and now up the coast of Portugal. If you haven’t already, make sure to hit the subscribe button and check us out on Instagram and YouTube.
★ 25 years guiding★ 48 U.S. states★ 10 countries★ 3,000+ Camino miles
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.