We’ve arrived in Irún, Spain, in the northeast tip of Spain. It’s gorgeous here! I can feel the Camino energy all around me. We’re excited to start our Camino but what an adventure thus far. I’m starting the Camino a bit broken but don’t we all start that way?
We’d tried something new this year which was to enjoy a bit of holiday (vacation) time before we started our Camino. I’m not sure it was the best idea. You can read about that in a previous blog. In short, I cut my head open on a set of marble stairs. I have staples in my head and I had a terrible – just awful – hospital experience.
What should we do?
What does that mean for our Camino? I’m not completely sure. I’ve been resting a lot the past couple of days. My head still hurts, there’s still bleeding. Tomorrow is a very challenging day with multiple, big climbs. The plan is to walk 5 kilometers to our first town, then assess again. I may decide to taxi to the next town, I may decide to try the climb. I’m tuned into my body and I’ll do my best to listen.
The Camino is busy!! We’ve heard some pilgrims are struggling because they haven’t made advance reservations. If you’re walking the Camino del Norte, there are lots of options around here to stay but you would be wise to book in advance. We use the Wise Pilgrim app and the Cicerone guide book to make our decisions for lodging and route planning. We book everything in advance, don’t judge, it’s our Camino our way.
I’m glad we decided to start in Irún. It’s got everything we need, including tapas (fresh, warm appetizer bites) and café con leche (Spanish coffee). Of course there are grocery stores, pharmacies, bakeries, sporting goods stores, and even a gluten free bakery!!! 🙌🏼 These are all essentials on our Camino.
We’ve hand washed our clothes, rested the afternoon away, and now it’s time to find an evening meal before we drift off for the night and our Camino truly begins.
Warm goat cheese salad with bacon and pine nuts
When we entered our hotel in Irún, my daypack fell over and my shell broke. I’m truly starting this Camino broken in so many way. I pray for healing as we walk.
If you have questions about the Camino, this is our 6th one so we’ll be happy to answer them below.
A budget for any vacation/holiday is a personal topic. It’s scary to allow others to see how we chose to spend our money. We risk judgment and ridicule. However, the benefits of sharing go back to the theme of all my blogs which is to share all parts of our Camino experiences despite what others think. I am an open book and will remain that way. You’re welcome. ❤️
We have walked 3 pilgrimages, the Camino Frances, Camino Portuguese, and the Via Francigena from Switzerland to Rome. We found it was the cheapest to walk the Camino Frances and the most expensive was the Via Francigena. If you want to see our YouTube videos on our latest walk, the Via Francigena, please click here.
A typical bunkroom in Switzerland
With some exceptions, you can find lodging from as cheap as a donativo where you make a donation for a bed, typically in a shared bunk room, with a shared bathroom. Sometimes that accommodation has bedding but you usually need to bring your own. Occasionally your host will serve a communal dinner but it is expected that you would leave more money. A typical donation is anywhere from €10-20 per person.
On the Via Francigena, you can camp in many places if you have a tent but I don’t know much more than that because we have never made the decision to camp. I know it’s illegal to wild camp in Spain but I also have known those who do it from time to time. Again, not my area of expertise.
The entrance of our donativo lodging in Cort St. Andrea
With all of the pilgrimages we have done, we use guidebooks. They include lodging suggestions ranging from a donativo, camping, churches, municipalities, and private lodgings. When creating our reservations we always start with the guidebooks and create a plan from there.
Speaking of a plan, that’s another factor – to plan your reservations ahead or not. Some people will reserve a night or two ahead, especially in the busy season. Some people will just wing it every day, letting their feet decide how far they will walk each day. Others, like us, plan out all of our reservations ahead of time. There is no right or wrong way to plan…or not. It’s up to you and your personal preference.
Why do we choose to plan every night in advance? It’s a great question, haha. I mean, what if there’s an injury? What if we just can’t walk that far? What if we meet people we really want to walk with but can’t because they are staying in different places? Life is full of “what ifs.” We have also experienced every one of those challenges.
On our Camino Portugues, I had a foot injury and we had to rent bikes for a few weeks to give my foot a break. This meant we didn’t bike very far every day because we had to stick to our lodging plan. We made a few changes along the way to have some longer days more suited for a bike but only with the refundable reservations.
We always have days when we just can’t walk as far as we planned. However, we aren’t purists so we are ok with grabbing a bus, train, or taxi. We have to walk during the hottest part of the year so there are always going to be challenges, heat or not honestly. Creating a plan works for us because we enjoy trip planning. We enjoy making a few decisions while walking a pilgrimage. We like looking forward to planned rest days in villages/cities we have developed an interest in during our planning. Finally, as a couple, it gives us one less thing to debate when we are hot, tired, and crabby. My philosophy is I can argue for free at home but when on vacation/holiday, I don’t want to argue. Haha! Plus, planning gives us something to think about when the school year is getting exhausting or the winter months are feeling long.
Knocking on the budget door!
But you came here for a budget talk. There are a lot of factors that go into a budget for anyone. We have a few basic expectations if possible: (1) A private room because it’s the summer when we are walking and it’s too hot to be in a room with others. Additionally, snoring and the noise of a shared room are not something we prefer. A good night’s sleep is critical. (2) A private bathroom is ideal but not required. A shared bathroom is ok from time to time if it saves us money but we really like a private bathroom. (3) We want shared experiences with other pilgrims so we look for accommodations for pilgrims with a communal dinner and then ask if they have private rooms. Many times they do if you ask early enough, as these tend to book up early. (4) Since we are walking in the heat of the summer we look for places with air conditioning from time to time and more often when we are experiencing excessive heat. These are the most expensive rooms but necessary for relief from the heat. I get terrible heat rash in the summer and only a cool night’s sleep brings me relief from it. (5) When we are booking a two-night stay we always look for a private room, with a private bathroom, with air conditioning. This is the ideal situation unless the air conditioning isn’t working but that’s another subject.
The joys of a private room
I mentioned you can find rooms for €10-20 a person and in order to make our budget work we find rooms like this from time to time. Other rooms in accommodations for pilgrims can run us €35-50 total for both of us. A room from websites like Booking.com can run €50 to over €100, depending on the city. Of course, your bigger cities will have all types of accommodations for any budget.
For comparison, in 2017 on the Camino Frances, our budget averaged €50 a night but if we were to do it again we could do better to lower that budget. We didn’t stay in as many pilgrim accommodations as we could have then. We’ve learned a lot since 2017. Though with inflation, who knows for sure what our budget will be?
In 2019, on the Camino Portuguese, we walked the coastal route which is more expensive. Our budget averaged €65 a night. However, we struggled to find pilgrim accommodations on the coast. In retrospect, I think we could have done a better job and lowered that cost a bit.
In 2022, on the Via Francigena, we averaged €75 a night. Our cheapest nights were donativo’s at €20. We had a few pricey nights because we took rest days in Marina de Massa and on Lake Bolsena. But we have no regrets. This was our 15 wedding anniversary trip and our 50th birthday trip. It was all we dreamed about and more.
We didn’t spend money on laundry because we hand-washed our clothes every day. Our only other expense was the occasional pharmacy run for compeed or anti-inflammatory cream, food, and of course, wine.
Sometimes you just need Doritos and wine… in bed while your laundry is drying 😆
A food budget is extremely subjective. There is no way we can compare food budgets and be helpful. First, I am married to a foodie so getting him to pull back on trying every new dish is impossible. Second, we are wine lovers so there has to be a wine budget. And why not, it’s Italy!
We saved food money by utilizing any free breakfast food offered even if it didn’t appeal to us. We packed them as snacks or enjoyed them immediately. We limited our espresso budget and only enjoyed a good cappuccino from time to time, sorry we aren’t coffee lovers. We would grab food in a market whenever possible. But our love of cocktails, wine, and outstanding dinners made our budget a bit bigger. We spent about €75 a day on food.
As the CFO of our family, my goal is to stay within our budget and never have credit card debt. We want to retire debt-free and retirement gets closer every year. We did what we set out to do. Are we more cash-poor because of it? Yes! But the memories are priceless and you can’t take it with you! ❤️
Our trips may look extravagant to some but when you’re on pilgrimage there are no souvenirs. We took a long walk to Rome and enjoyed every step, even the rough ones.
I’m not a religious person. I am a God-fearing woman who was raised with religion. I respect it. I respect the impact it has on the lives of many. I raised my son to love God but respect the differences in others.
Religion has torn apart families, it has brought families together. It has destroyed communities and countries, but it can bring them together. Brian and I have worked and volunteered in churches for much of our lives. We’ve seen the labor of love that goes into preparing for a church service but we have also seen the politics, backstabbing, judgmental, gossip-driven ugly side of the church.
Pace means peace ❤️
We chose to live a life of loving people equally, completely, without judgment, and without pressuring them to believe in one thing or another. I utterly appreciate that we all see the world differently and live differently. It’s what makes traveling the world a rich experience. If anyone wants to talk to me about God, I will happily tell them about my spiritual path. However, I will not ask them to share that belief. I will live by example when it comes to those who know me, love me, and learn from me but that is where it ends.
Have I set the stage for this blog? Haha! The Via Francigena, along with the other Caminos we have completed, are ancient Catholic pilgrimages. So why would those who are not religious walk them? It’s a great question and one that is discussed among fellow pilgrims along the Way.
The simple answer is we walk for the adventure, the time together, and to experience a new culture. The long answer isn’t much different. We love to be more than tourists, which can be challenging with other types of travel. Even when we are traveling in our RV we don’t move as slowly as we do when we are walking. Maybe when we are retired and can stay in one area for a long period of time it will be a similar experience but, for now, this is the best way to immerse ourselves in another culture.
Because we respect other religions, we enjoy getting to know how others worship. The pilgrimages we have completed are Catholic but there are pilgrimages where we can experience other faiths. One, in particular, that interest us is the sister pilgrimage to the Camino Frances in Japan where you walk from Buddhist Temple to Buddhist temple. Who knows, maybe you’ll see us walking that next?
The churches are just stunning
You don’t have to be religious to walk a pilgrimage. I think the most important part is to be respectful, like learning a few words so you can express kindness in the language of the country you are traveling in. When you go into churches, take off your hat, be quiet, and respect those who are there to worship.
There is a lot of history along a pilgrimage route. It’s always great to read as much as you can before you go. Then as you are walking you will appreciate more of what you are seeing because it will be familiar.
Walking pilgrimage has made us even more respectful and accepting of our differences and more appreciative of the gifts that have been given to us. These are gifts I will be grateful for forever. It brings me to tears when I see how abrasive people can be to each other. It breaks my heart to watch others push their opinions and tell others how to live. I wish everyone could go on a pilgrimage, the world would be a more understanding place.
Grazie, thank you, for reading my blogs as we walked. I will have more coming in the months ahead as we reflect on our adventure. I will talk about our budget, our lodging choices, language barriers, and overcoming my “I am not sure I can” mentality (which is almost as bad as I can’t).
If you haven’t watched our Via Francigena videos on YouTube, what are you waiting for? 😆❤️ See the playlist when you click here.
If this blog inspired you, please click the like button! 👍🏼 If there is something else you want me to talk about, please leave a comment below. If you are walking a pilgrimage in the future, I would love to know about it, leave a comment.
Please remember your blessings and respect the differences in others.
There’s something special about carrying this credential everywhere we go and looking for a timbro (stamp). It’s a significant symbol of what we are doing. We are not just on a long walk, we are not backpacking a trail, rather we are on a pilgrimage. In the end, we show this collection of timbri (stamps) for our testimonium from the Pope in Vatican City.
On the Camino Frances there are stamps everywhere. Every bar, cafe, accommodation, roadside stand, lemonade stand, they all want you to have their stamp. They are proud of their unique stamp, many are extremely creative. The booklet of stamps is certainly a cherished memory. Many pilgrims frame their credential.
I don’t have memories of having difficulty getting stamps on the Caminho Portuguese. We seemed to get them wherever we went. But who knows, the actual collecting of stamps is a forgotten memory.
The very special stamp from Montefiascone to symbolize the last 100 km
On the Via Francigena collecting stamps has been like everything else, a bit challenging. If you stay at an accommodation that is not in the guidebook, for example one you find on booking.com, you should not assume they will have a stamp.
You cannot expect every bar/caffé to have a stamp. Very few bars/caffés have a stamp, but the ones that do are excited to engage with us and give us a timbro. We have encountered many places that even use a return address label for their stamp. Don’t get me wrong, there are people who take great pride in their timbro, I just wish we could find them easier and more often.
On the Camino Frances, you will find a stamp in every church you visit. It’s usually self-service but no less meaningful. We have been to a few churches this summer where, once we have hunted down those who work there, we found a timbro.
We attended a Mass in Sarzana and afterwards we asked a nun for a timbro and she had no idea what we were asking for. Fortunately, a parishioner told us that we could find a timbro at a pizza place about 400 meters away. The pizza place owner was quite nice and even offered us each a free bottle of water. Water is never free in Italy.
For our final rest day we stayed at a hotel just 400 meters off of the Via Francigena and we didn’t even bother to ask for a timbro. It was a fancy hotel, I promise, they didn’t have a stamp.
I’m not going to let it ruin my mood. I am thankful for this opportunity to travel through Switzerland and Italy on pilgrimage. It’s my fault for comparing it to other pilgrimages we’ve completed. It’s also our fault for not staying in the pilgrim hostel. I know there are pilgrimages that are more remote and every pilgrimage is different. However, collecting stamps is a part of our daily life on pilgrimage so it’s worth discussing.
When we get into a conversation with locals about the Via Francigena, they are quite interested in this pilgrimage. The locals have made us feel extremely welcome the entire time we’ve been here. It’s surprising how many don’t know about the Via Francigena but I’m sure it’s the same at home if I asked people if they knew the Buckeye Trail went through our hometown.
This isn’t about the people, rather the experience of collecting timbri to show when we arrive in Vatican City to get our testimonium. I don’t want anyone to question if we walked the 100 kilometers required to get a testimonium.
Only 7 spots left and this credential is full!
Yes, we’ll frame our stinky, a bit worn, edges bent, sweat blotted credential next to our testimonium. We’ll relish in the memories created to get each timbri.
Wouldn’t it be great if every trail included the joy of collecting stamps along the way. ❤️
Walking stats from Viterbo to Vetralla – 16.94 km
Lodging at Albergo da Benedetta – €50 (discount for pilgrim and non working A/C)
Walking stats from Vetralla to Sutri – 19.26 km
Lodging at Radici Etrusche Sutri – €65
Walking stats from Sutri to Campagnano di Roma –
Lodging at Ostello Campagnano includes food for dinner – €50
Brian told me that my last blog on the lows of pilgrimage was not the happiest blog I’d ever written. Haha! You can read it, if you dare, by clicking here.
It was real. My emotions were quite raw and I was not feeling the best about this pilgrimage. I promised myself to write like I am only talking to myself and I did because I need to remember those emotions. But I also need to remember the good feelings.
I wanted to quit, but of course, I would never let myself quit. It’s not who I am. But by allowing myself to settle into those raw, ugly emotions, it reminded me to look at the other side of this pilgrimage. So let’s do just that – look at the bright side of life (whistle along if you know the reference)!
I love pilgrimage for many reasons. The first and most important is the simplistic nature of it. When we are traveling by car or RV so much can go wrong, and has gone wrong in our experience. Just look at our RV video vlogs on YouTube. For this trek I needed 2 outfits, a raincoat, and good shoes. When does the average person live on that for 2½ months. Pilgrimage is simple.
It’s way more than simplicity, pilgrimage is about giving yourself the space to just go for a long walk and think about whatever you want. I love to think about my goals for the new school year, to develop personal goals, to consider how I want my relationships to look, and of course, I love to think about where I want to go next. Brian and I get into some outstanding conversations about how we see our future. Pilgrimage gives us the space to think.
A pilgrim statue in Montefiascone
When do you ever get your spouse’s undivided attention for this many hours in a day and this many days in a row? Um, never! But, while on pilgrimage, we have each other’s undivided attention and it is the best thing in the world for a relationship. Pilgrimage helps us grow closer together.
The sheep herder was sitting on a rock in shade, probably laughing at us
We have seen most of the United States but only as tourists. While we are on pilgrimage, we are not tourists. We are welcomed into people’s homes and their places of worship. We see small villages that a tourist would never even know to visit. We are living and walking amongst the farmers and sheep herders as they go about their daily life. We are only collecting memories and photos, there is no room for luxuries. Pilgrimage gives us the opportunity to experience a new culture.
The relationships that are born from pilgrimage are like no other. I guess the only comparison I have is the friends we meet when we are camping, maybe that’s why we are drawn to camping. When you spend days upon days walking with someone new, you get to experience who they really are vs. the face they normally portray to the world. Pilgrimage creates a deep level of intimacy with those you meet.
The Via Francigena cannot be compared to other pilgrimages that we have completed. Nor should it be. We knew this was going to be different. It has fulfilled what I love about pilgrimage. And the food, oh my gosh, we love the food. Speaking of, it’s about time for dinner. And you know I don’t want to be late!
Thanks for following along. I hope you have enjoyed my reflections while we walking the Via Francigena. If there something you want me to talk about, you know how to reach me! Please share my blogs if you think they would help others.
Ciao! Ciao!
Walking stats from to Bolsena to Montefiascone – 15.3 km
Lodging at Palazzo Frigo – €90
Walking stats from Montefiascone to Viterbo – 18.3 km
Lodging at Viterbo B&B – €70 (includes a small discount for pilgrims, if you book directly with them)
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
I didn’t know my body could be this tired. Even though I see new muscles every day, I am tired. Besides how exhausted I feel, what has surprised me the most on this pilgrimage is a roller coaster of emotions. Put your seat belt on because I am going to talk about the tough times.
I expected it to be tough. I expected it to challenge me. I didn’t expect to be so worn out at this stage of the pilgrimage. Being that we are going into the final week, I expected to be more energized.
Every photo will include us squinting in the sun
I think I was hoping that by this point there would be more pilgrims to chat it up with every evening. I was hoping for more little villages throughout the day. I was hoping to feel something more that would energize me for the home stretch.
The heat is tough on us both. It makes every pilgrim push a little harder to be done walking before noon. Then we deal with accommodations that won’t let us check in until 2:00 or 3:00 p.m. So we wait, in the heat, before we can find relief. If you are lucky enough to find a room with air conditioning, you better pray it works well. Many places we have paid extra to stay at because we wanted the air conditioning which unfortunately has either not worked at all or they set limits to how cool it can be. Seriously, limits on air conditioning, that’s a new one to us.
The lack of new pilgrims has been disappointing. We hoped to have made connections with many others by now. We had hoped for a nice “pilgrim family” but there just haven’t been that many pilgrims. Of course, we expected it could happen because of our pace and our rest days, but it’s still tough.
Then there is the walk. The days are full of walking in the full sun. This is the best farmer’s tan we have ever had! Haha! The heat is extremely intense. We are lucky if there is one village along the way and even more lucky if there is a bar/cafe open. We had heard many places are closed on either Sunday or Monday so we always plan our day before we leave the village we are in. However, what we’ve experienced is that a place could be closed any day of the week.
On our walk from Radicofani to Acquapendente there was one village, Centeno, where we could stop for food. However, it was Saturday and the only place in town was closed on Saturday’s. I really struggle with the lack of pilgrim stops along the way.
Working by the pool since the hotel has no power
We have been looking forward to our final rest day in Bolsena. We booked a “nice” hotel with a pool, wi-fi, and air conditioning. You’ll never believe what has happened since we arrived. The first room they put us in, a ceiling tile fell because water was leaking from the air conditioning unit. Fortunately we had just finished washing our clothes and showering. They moved us to a new room. Overnight the power went out which meant no air conditioning, no phones being charged, no wifi, and a limited breakfast. They teased us with eggs and bacon for breakfast but not without power.
I guess this summer is about learning to pivot because it seems to be the theme, see my earlier blog. We’ve had to adjust our expectations, learn to be ok with less than we wanted, and pivot when things don’t go as planned. I’m not saying it’s easy but I guess it’s something we needed to learn.
Now we enter the home stretch. My main motivation going forward is that we finish what we start. It’s the way we raised our children and something we feel is important. The tough moments help us grow. They nourish our soul and stretch our adventurous spirit.
We will walk into Vatican City in 7 days. I don’t know what our attitude will be like, except that we will be thrilled with what we have accomplished. My prayer is the next 7 days have services along the way, the heat isn’t quite so intense, and we meet a few pilgrims to connect with along the way. But if that doesn’t happen, we will continue to pivot because ultimately, we will finish what we started. This pilgrimage is full of memories already, I am sure we laugh about that summer we spent walking into the sun.
Walking stats from Sienna to Ponte d’Arbia – 25.21 km
Lodging at the Centro Cultural Center – donation
Walking stats from Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia – 11.39 km, with a bus for 14.8 km
Lodging at Ai Portali B&B – €100
Walking stats from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani – 16.82 km, with a bus for 16.81 km
Lodging at Casa del Ciliegio – €66
Walking stats from Radicofani to Acquapendente – 19.63 km, with a taxi for 3.5 km
Lodging at IL Borgo Ristorante Pizzeria Camere – €60
Walking stats from Acquapendente to Bolsena – 18.8 km (we did some road walking to shorten the day)
Two nights of lodging at Hotel Holiday Sul Lul Lago – €296 (too much, I know! But it had a pool! 🙌🏼)
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
The routine is natural to us, it’s both easy and uncomplicated. We wake up between 5:30-6 a.m. and are walking just as soon as we get out the door. Ideally there’s a bar/caffé between 5-8 km into the walk for a breakfast stop. If I have to wait until 10km, I’m cranky and if there’s no food along the way I’m…let’s not talk about it. We can usually find something. However, sometimes we can only find food once a day. This trail is not like the Camino de Santiago where there’s food about every 5-7 km, sometimes the food on this trail is quite scarce.
Marcello and his pilgrim rest stop in La Villa
Yesterday, while walking to Siena there was only one stop for food for our 20 km walk. It was a roadside stand with a great guy, Marcello, who created this food stand in front of his house. Marcello and his cake and cappuccino were a huge blessing. He only accepts donations.
Once we finish the walk, usually between noon – 2 p.m., the routine continues. This part reminds me of RVing when we arrive at a new campground. Everyone needs to leave us alone while we back up the rig and get it set up. Similarly, when we arrive at our accommodation for the night, we can’t get distracted by stores, wine, food, or a festival which was the case in Monteriggioni.
Looking back at the walled city of Monteriggioni
When we check into a new place, we show our passports, pay for the night so we don’t have to worry about it in the morning, learn how to use the keys, and understand what’s expected while we’re there. Once that’s done the next step is critical unless we’re hungry or there’s a festival like in Monteriggioni. In case you’re not sure yet, the festival really tried to distract us and throw off our routine. Wait until that YouTube video is out, wow!
Once we’re settled into our room it’s time to hand wash today’s clothes so they have plenty of time to dry and grab a shower before anyone else has to smell us. At that point we are free to wander around the town, go to the church, peek in the shops (though nothing can be purchased unless they can ship it home), and of course, find more food.
The goal is to be in bed by 9 p.m. so we can do it all again, unless there’s a festival outside your window. I’m all for a good distraction, you know that, but right now I’m in a pilgrim zone as we attempt to finish the last two weeks strong. The festival in Monteriggioni was a nice distraction in the walled village with only two streets but the main stage was right outside of our unair-conditioned room and it went on until well after midnight. That is tough on a pilgrim.
Once we got to Siena we were both tired from the late night but the distractions were everywhere and so were the tourists. Just getting to our accommodation meant dancing around tourists who randomly stop in the middle of the street for a photo of anything. I want the photos too but not with my backpack on. And if you bump into me, I will leave sweat in your clothes.
I will admit, tourists are exhausting. I’m thankful I don’t live in a tourist town. Deciding to take a rest day in a tourist town isn’t for every pilgrim. I get it. There’s so much to do but what we need to do is recuperate and rest our feet.
Our rest day regimen includes: Sleep in, wander around until lunch, take a nap, work some/watch Netflix, grab dinner, and get to bed at a reasonable time. However, in a tourist town that means we can pick only a few things to see or we will wear ourselves out!
Inside the basilica – you’ll have to wait until the video comes out for all of the footage!
Siena is no exception but we managed it successfully! The city guide brochure is 27 pages long and has the city broken up into 3 areas. 😳 We left our room about 9:15 a.m. and did our best wandering until fresh pizza was calling our name. After lunch we took a 3 hour nap. Oh my gosh, that was the best part of my day! Haha!
Of course, since we’re accustomed to the late dinner, we had our la passa giata (evening stroll) this evening around the Piazza del Campo and followed our noses to a good meal. Our wallets paid the price for the lack of planning but it was worth it for the vibe. We have a 25 km walk tomorrow and it’s going to be 92°f/33°c tomorrow so no sleeping in for us!
This has been our routine for 45 days. Yes, 45 days! (Note: We’ve been on pilgrimage for 45 days but the title reflects our walking day count to follow our YouTube videos.) It feels natural to us to the point where it will be strange when we’re not walking. But that thought brings me to tears and it’s a blog for another day. For now I will focus on the pleasure of our final 12 days of walking. Rome will be here too soon.
Ciao! Ciao!
Walking stats from San Gimignano to Monteriggioni included 12 km of walking and 15 km by taxi
Lodging at Castello Casa per ferie Maria Assunta with a private room – €74
Walking stats from Monteriggioni to Sienna – 20.74 km
Lodging for 2 nights in a tourist town at La Terrazza Sul Campo-Rooming house – €226
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
It is amazing what a change will do for the soul. We experience changes all the time from a new week, beautiful sunset, shift in the weather, a refurbished home, a new pet, or even new neighbors. Whatever the change, it’s all around us, happening even when we don’t notice it.
Change is good for the soul and I believe we all need bigger changes from time to time. Because Brian and I live in the Midwest, we experience change all the time in the seasons and as teachers we experience change at the start of each new semester. Maybe that makes us more aware of change or maybe that makes us need change more? Maybe it helps us be balanced? I don’t know and it doesn’t really matter. What I do know is how much I love change.
After a month of walking, I was in need of change. I was seriously in need of it. I am not alone in that need for change, other pilgrims have said they are looking for it too. Change doesn’t have to be some big metaphor for life, sometimes a change in scenery will do just fine. Other times, seeing and chatting with other pilgrims is enough change.
This is our longest pilgrimage, specifically walking on one trail. We’ve walked/biked other trails but there were always more types of change and more pilgrims. This trail has moments where change is obvious like going from Switzerland to Italy, from the Po Valley to the Apennine Mountains, and now we’re in Tuscany.
At this point, I needed more than just a scenery change. I know, it’s Tuscany, what more could I possibly need!? I can’t explain. But of course, just like it always happens on pilgrimage, you get what you need which was confirmation enough for me.
Just holding up the tower like every other tourist
Leaving the trail for 24 hours to go to Pisa was a risk. Would we be distracted by tourist life? Would we be able to just hop back on the trail? Would the change be what I actually needed? Would I just be done.
It was the perfect amount of change. Pisa is a small tourist town. I couldn’t imagine going to Rome and then coming back to try to appreciate Pisa the way we did. I’m surprisingly more excited about Rome and the rest of our walk because of going to Pisa. Maybe it was imagining what I’ll buy when we are tourists, maybe it’s wandering around without my backpack, or maybe it was just the distraction I needed.
Because we didn’t plan a day to Pisa, we sacrificed the walk from Altopascio to San Miniato. We got back on the trail shortly after San Miniato to walk to Gambassi Terme. That all goes back to my last blog about owning the exceptions. I have zero regrets.
It’s moments like this that add to the memories
When we got to Gambassi Terme we checked into the Ostello Sigerico. There were 10 other pilgrims in the ostello (aka – albergue or hostel)! That’s the most pilgrims we’ve been around at one time the entire trip! Change is so very good!!
We left for San Gimignano this morning and it was an epic day! Not only was it a shorter day but there were pilgrims o’ plenty on the trail. We took a million photos. The weather was outstanding. We smelled the pine, cypress, and olive trees all day. We even went a bit crazy and stopped at a winery at 10 a.m. with 7km still to go on our walk! The wine was so good we had a case shipped home!
We only have 14 days left to walk to Rome. I know we’ll continue to see more pilgrims. The scenery will continue to shift. We have a lot of days ahead we’re looking forward to. I know our energy will dip some but I anticipate the emotions I will feel is sadness because it’s coming to an end along with great anticipation to see Rome!
I can’t believe it’s all happening! Change is good! ❤️
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Click here to enjoy our YouTube video of our time from Lucca to Gambassi Terme.
Walking stats from Altopascio to San Miniato. 0 on the Via Francigena but we walked 10 km in Pisa. 🙌🏼
Walking stats from San Miniato to Gambassi Termi 10 km
Lodging at Ostello Sigerico €40 plus dinner at €14 a person
Walking stats from Gambassi Termi to San Gimignano 15 km
Lodging at A La Casa Dei Potenti – €75
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Besides the incessant heat, our greatest struggle is decided if we should rest on a rest day or seeing what’s all around us in whatever city/village we are in.
We have to decide, is it important to have a rest day in a small village with nothing to see or stay in a medium village with a bit of life but not too much so you don’t wear yourself? Or do you just rest when the body says it’s time? Everyone is different. I think ultimately the body will tell you what you can and cannot do.
Our dream rest day is a medium sized village, with a lively (but not too lively) piazza near us, a few interesting things to wander and see, but not too much or we won’t rest.
There is one more critical piece to a perfect rest day – the accommodation. We have had all types on this trek, from the absolute most uncomfortable, stinky, hot, and nowhere to work accommodations to the magical little place we have here in Lucca. The room is small but it has all of the essentials, air conditioning, a decent bed, nice size shower, and a gorgeous courtyard.
Working and resting on a rest day
It was like our bodies said, “enough” and they called a time out. We just took a rest day in Marina di Massa. However, we were on the beach in the sun all day like tourists and our accommodation was the worst we have had the entire trip.
Here in Lucca, we did what we do best when our bodies feel they way they did coming in. We wandered around the piazzas near us and visited a couple of churches, but that’s all. Last night we didn’t even go back out for dinner. This was not how we saw our time in Lucca but alas it’s what we needed.
A rest day is completely different from being a tourist. When you are a tourist, you walk a lot of kilometers to see as much as you can of a town before you leave. We will have plenty of time for tourism after we make it to Rome.
Have you ever come home from a tourist vacation only to feel utterly exhausted? This is the feeling we try to avoid because our walking days are exhausting enough.
Then there are exceptions, like a beach, because it sounds utterly wonderful and relaxing. I have no regrets about that day, it was magical despite the accommodation and feeling exhausted the next day.
Life is full of exceptions and we need to embrace them. It’s a big part of why we are not purist trail hikers. We tried that and it wasn’t as much fun. We are on a long adventure and the days of waking lots of kilometers is not always fun. It’s hot on the trail in the summer. The trail is extremely tough at times and the days are long. We are making memories of all types, including a few we are creating when we make exceptions.
For the first time while on a pilgrimage we fully own our choices and will not be bound by what others think we should or should not do, where we should go or not go. They are our memories to create and it feels outstanding.
We will have to come back to be tourists in Lucca someday, along with other villages we have made note of for the future.
The exceptions will continue again the day after tomorrow when we leave the trail for a day and a half to visit Pisa. The reviews of Pisa are mixed but there’s that famous leaning tower thing, you know, and it has to be seen. Haha! If we don’t go, it’s a town we may not come back to see and the town everyone will ask if we visited. Alas, we’re going to be tourists for a day.
It does mean losing a day on the Via Francigena but we are looking forward to the distraction. After Pisa, it will be time to buckle down and finish the last few weeks of this trail. Rome is calling and we are excited to tour it!
Take the time to enjoy the cappuccino
If you take anything from this blog, please remember your life is yours to live. Be happy with your path, your choices, and your exceptions.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from our walk from Sarzana to Camaiore.
Click here to enjoy our YouTube video from Camaiore to Lucca!
Walking stats from Massa di Marina to Camaiore – 11.5 km with a bus for 14 km
Lodging at Ostello del Pellegrino – €40
Walking stats from Camaiore to Lucca – 16 km with a bus for 9 km
Lodging at il Cortile di Elisa for two nights – €144
*Listing our accommodation is not an endorsements. This is just a point of information for fellow pilgrims. See our reviews on Booking.com, the guidebooks, and fellow pilgrims for more details to make the decision best for you.
Gear – Gear – Gear! Let’s talk gear. It’s not my favorite subject to write about but I love to read what others carry in their backpacks, so alas, I need to talk about it too! Haha!
Skip to the end for the list of items and links!
Watch the video on YouTube to see what we’re talking about!
I don’t like talking about it because everyone seems to be an expert. I am not an expert, nor are most people. Though we have had quite a bit of experience at finessing the gear we carry on any trail. We have been day hiking for 15 years, we have backpacked on the Appalachian Trail and other trails, and this is our 3 pilgrimage. We each have some pieces of gear that work superbly and we continue to use, we have some pieces of gear that are right for some types of trails but not others, then we have gear that continues to change as our needs change and the gear improves.
A pilgrim statue on the Via Francigena. He looks like his pack is too heavy or his day has been too long
My backpack is 38 liters. This is my second pilgrimage with it. On our first pilgrimage, I carried a 48 liter pack and it was too big. This one works perfectly for me. Brian carries a 48 liter pack and it’s his third pilgrimage with it. He has never used the brain of the pack so it’s obviously a bit lighter weight/less storage. He loves his pack. Unfortunately it is starting to really show it’s age so he may need to reach out to Osprey before our next trek. While walking on this type of pilgrimage, these are the backpacks we carry but these packs are also great for a 2-4 day backpacking trip.
While walking our 3rd pilgrimage, now on the Via Francigena, I feel like my gear is pretty spot on. I have a few things I would change, but overall, after walking 30 of our 50 days, my pack feels pretty darn good. When it comes to Brian’s pack, well, I think he carries too much but he’s happy so I’m happy. See, everyone has an opinion about gear. However, I think that’s where others should leave their opinions. If you have not gathered yet, people seriously love to analyze gear in every hiking/walking circle we are a part of. It’s an exhausting topic. If someone is happy, let them be, that’s my philosophy. If you want to read about what we carry and a bit of why with pros/cons, continue reading. If you want a summary of what we are carrying now with links to our gear, skip to the end. You can also view our gear and hear us talk about it on our YouTube video.
We are just over halfway through this pilgrimage and it was time to give even the backpack a bath. Ewww…
When it comes to clothes, we are minimalistic. We have one outfit we are wearing and one outfit being hand washed and hanging on a line to dry. Brian does carry one extra shirt that’s a t-shirt. It’s a shirt we can both wear if needed, he likes the back up. I know we going shopping when we get to Rome, so it doesn’t bother us at all to wear the same two outfits. Our clothes are made of tech gear which drys fast, wicks away moisture, and is lightweight.
My pants are from REI. They roll up into capris, they stretch, and the waistband adjusts as (hopefully) I get a bit smaller while backpacking. I love pants because sometimes it’s cool in the evenings, I can hike in them, they are great for churches that require my knees being covered, and they are lightweight. By the way, we are surrounded by the most amazing food, I doubt I am getting smaller. Oh well!
I also have a pair of skorts from Tail which is a golf brand. This is new for me on this Camino. In the past, I have worn leggings and legging shorts. I actually really love my Tail skort. There are lots of options for skorts in the hiking gear world. My challenge was (1) I am a bigger girl and I like my skorts a bit longer and (2) I wanted something that was cute. They are a bit heavier with the thick waistband but it’s actually worked perfectly as a layer between me, my fanny pack, and my backpack. I did have the back pockets removed and sewn closed because they had front pockets and that saved a bit of weight. A big win all around.
My shirts are also a Tail brand and I love them! I have one that is sleeveless and one that is short sleeves. They are made of polyester and spandex. They wash and dry fast, don’t wrinkle, and I like how they look. That’s a trifecta if you ask me! Brian wears button up shirts from Eddie Bauer and Columbia. He loves the button up shirt but hasn’t been thrilled with the patterns. It’s hard to find something you will still like wearing after 50 days!
Top photo: Via Francigena in 2022; Bottom photo: Camino Frances in 2017
Brian wears two shorts, one is a pair of zip off pants and the other is shorts. Both have big pockets, made of tech gear, and he loves them. One pair is from Eddie Bauer and the other he found on Amazon. There is a summary with links to below.
Undergarments are the same, wash and wear. The first two pilgrimages I wore sports bras that had to be put on over the head, it was awful because I was often so sweaty and sticky from the heat, they rolled up. A bra should not be a two person job. Now I wear a Under Armour zip up sports bra and a regular underwire in the evenings. I like the balance of the two. Sports bras are the most comfortable to wear all day and all night, for me. I wear basic Bali underwear, Brian wears Jockey. They have worked for us for many years. For both of us, our underwear dries the fastest of everything. TMI but important for hikers: I like hiking with panty liners because I think they help with freshness.
When it comes to socks, Brian doesn’t wear any because he hikes in Chacos. I have tried all the different socks from very expensive to the opposite. I have worn double layer socks, toe socks, thin running socks with vaseline to prevent friction, and compression socks. This year I have wool socks and I absolutely love them. I have had one small blister and it was not a big deal to manage. The wool socks take a bit longer to dry but it has not been an issue.
The only other clothing gear we have is our Marmot rain coats. They double as our only long sleeve layer since we sent ahead a few things, I will summarize those items shortly. The rain coats have zippers under the arms for ventilation. They are lightweight and fold up in their own pocket. Some people like ponchos but we prefer rain coats because we can wear them with or without our backpacks. We have rain covers for our packs and that works well.
Since we are spending the summer walking into the sun we decided to bring hats and sun umbrellas (weighing in at only 6.8 oz each). The umbrellas were great when we were walking in heavy rain, even hail one day. We have used them on extremely hot, sunny days when there is no breeze. They don’t work well with a breeze because it stops the air flow. They also don’t work well if you are walking up a steep hill because they limit your view from that angle. I am not sure I would bring it again but it definitely has helped some.
After clothes, we have toiletries. We picked up both of our toiletry kits from REI before our first Camino and we are still using them. Mine unzips, unfolds, and can hang up. Brian has an expandable zippered bag. They are very lightweight, a couple of ounces at best. We share what we can (toothpaste, shaving cream, comb) and carry medium to small bottles where we can’t/won’t share (shampoo, conditioner, soap, toothbrushes, razors, hair ties). See our video for more on that topic.
Most important piece of gear – your shoes!
Shoes are another hot topic. Before this pilgrimage, I desperately wanted to change my shoes out to something lighter weight. Over a year of preparing for this trip, I tried out at least 40 pairs of “these are perfect for me” shoes upon the advice of other hikers. This is where “everyone is different” comes in. I wish I could have a pair of hiking shoes designed for my feet but until that day comes, I will stick with the shoes that have worked. I wear a pair of Merrell’s (link below). For Brian, this is his third pilgrimage hiking in just Chaco’s. He manages cracked heels with vaseline or lotion and a foot scrubber. He hasn’t had any issues and loves hiking in them.
When it comes to other things we carry, this is all about personal needs and preferences. I carry salt sticks because we are hiking in extreme heat most days, packets to add to our water that have electrolytes, and a small bottle of Advil/Aleve. Brian carries a couple of energy bars for an emergency and electrolyte drops. We both carry our own vitamins and medications. I also carry muscle relaxers for the tough days. We each use hiking poles and wouldn’t backpack with them.
We weren’t planning to tent camp, though you can and many do on this trail. Therefore, we didn’t bring a tent or sleeping bags. However, because of some of the ostellos/albergues/hostels we’re staying in, we needed something for the bed so we carry silk liners. They are perfect for the summer and lightweight. We each carry a lightweight towel because they are not provided in many of our accommodations. We have a small one for our wiping sweat all day, that I also use as a washcloth, and a larger one for drying. The towels we are carrying this time are different than before and we are happy with them.
Before I talk about our blogging/YouTube gear, I need to tell you about the gear we sent on to Rome. When we started this hike, we knew we wanted a few extra things for the cold/cooler weather of Switzerland. When that was over, and the roaring heat wave started, we needed to lighten our packs. Brian gave away his long sleeve shirt and gloves. He shipped ahead a fleece, ear plugs, eye cover, socks, and the legs to his pants. I shipped ahead my leggings, lightweight zip up jacket, eye cover, ear plugs, compression socks, and the vitamins I won’t need until we get to Rome. We used DHL and shipped our box to our accommodation in Rome with their permission. It was relatively easy but we did have the help of a local because you need a VAT number. We can apply for one but we didn’t have that time and we appreciate a local helping us out. When we get to Rome, we will buy suitcases for our shopping spree! Haha!
Finally, there is the gear we need so we can bring you all of this outstanding reporting from the trail. I am minimalistic, again. My phone case has a stand and I carry a portable Bluetooth keyboard. It’s a life saver to my fingers! Brian doesn’t carry much compared to many YouTubers. If you are watching our videos, you see his hiking poles with the phone on one and the GoPro on the other. He also carries an iPad, stand, a portable keyboard, and a small tripod that doubles as a selfie stick.
In 2019 we started our YouTube channel while walking the Camino Frances and Camino Portuguese. Brian only worked from his iPhone and wasn’t happy at all. I barely blogged because I hated not having a keyboard. For 2022, we are both thrilled with what we are carrying.
When we left the states, our backpacks were a bit heavier than we wanted but we knew (1) things like energy packets, electrolytes, and vitamins would lighten the load as they were consumed and (2) we hoped to ship ahead what we weren’t using. Without water, my backpack weighed 18 pounds and Brian’s weighed 22 pounds. I think each of our backpacks are down another 1 ½ to 2 pounds now. The only time my pack is heavy is at the start of a day when I need to carry more than 1 ½ liters of water. Fortunately, that doesn’t happen too often.
I hope you found this blog helpful when it comes to gear on a pilgrimage. Like I said at the start, it’s really about personal preference but I know the experiences of others helps to make good decisions about what you will carry. Here is a summary with links to where we got it.
Toiletries include chafing cream, face lotion with sunscreen, portable razor with case, shampoo I use for soap, washing hair and clothes, conditioner, tweezers, nail clippers, hair ties, allergy nose spray, eye drops, toothbrush head, toothpaste.
First aid kit: Compeed, band aids, antibacterial spray, Vaseline, alcohol wipes, scissors, needle and thread, moleskin, paper tape, cortizone cream, antacids, & Advil/Aleve
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Know before you go
Activity Level.
Every Cruisin' with the Colemans trip comes with an activity level so you know, before you lace up, roughly how hard the walking will be. Think of it as the overall rhythm of the trip — a few days might push a little past it and a few will feel gentler, but it's an honest read on what your legs are signing up for.
Nobody knows your body better than you do. We're all for a good challenge, but pick a level that matches your current fitness and trail experience and the whole walk gets more fun. Not sure where you land? Reach out — we've walked every one of these ourselves and we're always happy to talk it through.
Grades
EasyEasy0–8 km (0–5 miles)
Gentle, mostly flat days on well-kept, easy-to-follow paths. Ideal if you're new to multi-day walking or simply want a relaxed pace with plenty of time to soak it all in.
Easy – ModerateEasy–Moderate8–16 km (5–10 miles)
A little more distance over mixed ground — mostly maintained trails, quiet lanes, and the occasional gentle climb. A good fit if you're reasonably active and ready for a few longer stretches.
ModerateModerate16–20 km (10–12 miles)
Fuller days on varied, sometimes rugged terrain with regular ups and downs. Great for steady hikers in good shape, or determined first-timers chasing a real sense of accomplishment.
Moderate – StrenuousModerate–Strenuous20–24 km (12–15 miles)
Long days with sustained, often steep climbs and descents on rough trail. You'll want solid fitness; a few exposed spots call for a head for heights, and navigation can get trickier when the weather turns.
StrenuousStrenuous24–28 km (15–17 miles)
Big days on demanding, often remote mountain terrain — serious distance and elevation for experienced, fit hikers. Expect rough footing, the odd exposed or aided section, and higher altitude on some routes.
ExtremeExtreme+28 km (+17 miles)
Our toughest walking, built for very fit, very experienced hikers. Rugged, sometimes remote mountain terrain with scrambling, exposure, and aided sections — plus altitude, weather, and navigation that all add to the challenge.
Where you rest
Accommodations Levels.
Where you sleep is part of the story, so we hand-pick locally run places that welcome you like an old friend. The level shifts a little from trip to trip depending on the route, but the goal never does: a clean, comfortable, genuinely local stay at the end of every walking day.
Most nights you'll land in friendly, independent or family-run hotels, guest houses, and B&Bs chosen for their charm and the little touches that feel like home. Some trips lean a touch more luxurious; others, especially in the remote stretches, mean simpler refuges or huts. Either way, we've picked each one to help you rest up and wake ready for the trail.
Basic – A Place to Rest Your HeadBasic
Mountain huts, refuges, and simple B&Bs. Ensuite rooms aren't a given, and you may share a dorm with fellow walkers — but what you trade in polish you more than gain back in camaraderie and a big, rustic welcome.
Classic – Charming Without the FrillsClassic
Locally owned B&Bs, guest houses, and small inns that feel like a home away from home — usually family-run, cozy or freshly kept, and well placed for the next day's walk. A warm welcome comes as standard.
Comfort – A Little More...ComfortableComfort
Characterful, locally owned hotels and B&Bs with the little extras that make a stay feel special — décor rooted in the region, the occasional spot to unwind, and sometimes a kitchen worth lingering over.
In Style – For Those who Want to Treat ThemselvesIn Style
First-class stays in boutique hotels, vineyards, and country manors — often in the best seats in the house, from hilltop towns to the water's edge, with standout service and, now and then, a truly memorable table.
Mixed – Boutique Hotels to Mountain Huts, all in One TripMixed
One trip, a bit of everything. You might bed down in Classic or Comfort rooms through the towns and villages, then a refuge or other Basic spot up in the mountains where that's all there is — an honest, memorable mix that matches the journey.
